now the shifter doesn't fit. The new trans has 2 dowel pins, rather than the 1 in the shifter. Any thoughts? I might just cut it off with the dremel.

 

big channel lock pliers and push it half way out. leave it there until you need it for a stock shifter.

 

You can remove one of the dowel pins with a pair of vise grips.

 

edit: If you got the dowel out with just channel locks, you're a bad *** dude.

 

That's good to hear....at least you know who the father might be.

You might have to go on the Maury Povich Show to do one of those paternity test though.

 

apparently I broke the heater core at some point because my feet are scalded now. It idles though...now I have to figure out what's going on with the heater core...it may get bypassed for today.

 

no, no brace. The clearance is also very minimal.

 

Remove the brace and get these: Miata suspension parts by awr

You will thank me later. Stock Mazda sway bar mounts suck and break if you run R compounds.

 

i use the 20" "bigAZZ" channel locks. perhaps that's the difference?

 

I got it out with my pinkies.

Well I have random water-leaks now and must bleed the brakes and clutch before a proper, hard break in. So now I'm going to get **** drunk and bang a bunch of *****, then try to finish this up tomorrow.

I have 2 more days before I leave for Austin, and I'd really like to have the car ready to drop off at BEGi to have a few things re-engineered.

 

Good luck man, its been a long haul. May i ask how your routing the heater hoses for your heater core? Pictures would be awesome as well.

 

everything is tucked...just how you like it.

Pics will come tomorrow.

 

Hustler - I did notice that the barb ends for your water piping to the heater core and return were a little "how do you say" mangled. Did you use some wood dowel to shape them up. That would allow some leakage into your inner firewall and footwell. But does sound like a heater core, if your feet are getting the treatment.
Good luck and glad to see and hear the great progress you've had for this visit.

 

i used a nut-driver to round the heater core ports again, and no more leakage. Now I just have to put the new brakes on the car, bleed them, bleed the clutch, and I can break-in the motor!!!

 

help with wastegate actuator adjustment:
How should I adjust the wastegate actuator if I have a boost controller? I know "all the way in" helps with spool, but all the way out should make the least boost, right? i'd like to put it at the minimum now, but still have spool for road tuning.

Thanks.

 

I'd start with the lowest boost setting on the wastegate arm. I had some serious overboosting on my gt2860rs with no preload on the actuator. So make sure you're making low boost first with just the wastegate and no ebc. Then tighten up the wastgate to a couple psi less then you want to run with ebc.

Just leave the heat shield off while you do a couple pulls to find out how much boost you're making with the wastegate. You don't want to be prying that bitch off while it's hot to change the boost.

 

should I be worried about melting the master cylinder?

 

I don't have a heatshield on my car, haven't melted the cylinder yet. Don't worry about it. You're just street tuning, not tracking it at WOT for 30 minutes.

 

I can't get the fans to turn on. I was told the front water temp sensor was not used by ms, so i didn't make accomidations for it. I get readings in MS for water temp, but no fans. If i turn on the AC, they work. Any thoughts?

edit: how the hell am i going to make it 500-miles before ripping on this car? Holy ****, even 3psi at 4500rpm max is exciting now.

 

I can take the front temp sensor lead to gnd and it turns the fan on. I'm worried I need this front sensor now, and I've royally fucked up. Has anyone else with mspnp/water reroute done this on a 1.6 car?

Thanks,
dad