Tekel

iTrader: (2)

Here you can see the downpipe against the transmission.


pulllllllllllll


And then it popped. Was pulling and heard a loud POP. I knew a weld gave out.


And another issue... Here is the downpipe it has about 1-2mm of space before it is on the subframe
'

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

God is trying to save you. You really need a do-over on that downpipe.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Agree.
Then again, i have the ability to weld.

I'd be going with the autozone special and reusing old flanges.




Or

Copper RTV, with an exhaust bandage & clamp.

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Welds popping is usually a sign of fabrication demons. If you cut the real shelf at the down pipe, consider there are spots welds in the pinch seams that hold the lower and upper panels together. In a perfect world you would buy a welder and learn how to use it. Then fix all your problems. Forever.

Tekel

iTrader: (2)

He is doing a really good job of convincing me.

I'm going to look at it 1 more time and figure out what I can do to get it to clear the subframe better. I have some people who can weld this back up for me if needed. As of now, I plan on picking up a FM downpipe with Enthuza 2.5" exhaust because I just don't think I will be able to clear it enough unless I flatten the pipe there.

It was a weld on the downpipe. I don't think I will be cutting enough to make an issue. Maybe 1/2"

Tekel

iTrader: (2)

Spent way too many hours yesterday putting the car back together, wiring in the Wideband, boost gauge, and megasquirt (Soldering in a car is interesting). Filled her up with fluids, opened up tunerstudio and it looked very different from all the tutorials I had seen. I didn't touch the timing on the car and didn't have a timing light available so I thought forget it, I didn't come this far today to stop here. YOLO!!! (Or would it be You only crank once) Turned the key and it fired right up and idled right around 1000. I turned it off and thats where I left it. Emailed rev and he has directed me to where the settings moved to. I have also sourced a timing light and will get that sorted out some day this week.

I could not get the exhaust to line up so on friday I will take it by an exhaust shop to see what they tell me about adding about 3" of pipe and making 1 bend.

I also need to do a lot of wire clean up.






EDIT: Am I tapped at completely the wrong place for my ECU vacuum? It is the hose right behind the throttle body.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Buttsechs!!!!!!!!!!

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Yay!

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

That port for ECU MAP should be fine i believe. On our car, we're using it for BPV, but generally for MAP, you want post-TB.


Rev, what's the deal with the new ECUs? David has been blowing up my phone trying to figure out how to work his since it's got a different firmware/TS than like... any Megasquirt, ever.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

David who? I must have a thousand customers named Dave or David.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Muse, white 99 NB in Tennessee, on here as "jmuse8482" or something.

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

That's a Basic MS3, running the stock MS3 V1.2.4 firmware.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

Heh ok. I'm not super familiar with MS3, but it's definitely different than what "Thenuge24" is seeing on his MS3 Basic. No big deal, was just wondering when the change happened or whatever.

Tekel

iTrader: (2)

1 step forward and 2 steps back.

On Friday I was able to take the miata to an exhaust shop to get the muffler fitted. It was originally for an NB so I was having clearance issues of the differential and the mounting points not lining up. Like everywhere I take my miata around here "That thing is tiny" "That won't fit" and so on.

Gosh Tekel, where do you take your car, to some redneck shops that specialize in 90's trucks and muscle cars?

I have no clue what your talking about, *watches as they pull a fox body off the rack before me and then pull this up beside me*



I thought after that I would be ready to go. But, no. I thought I had made enough room with the downpipe and was clear, but it was vibrating against the subframe and transmission. I was able to move it around some and clear the subframe, but with only 1 set of hands, I couldn't get clear of the transmission. I got a little more room so now it only vibrates against it on startup and decel. When I can get a hand, I think I can move it to where I will clear and someone else torque it down.

But now on to the issues i'm having. I have an exhaust leak where the downpipe and midpipe meet that I can't get rid of. I replaced the vband clamp and tried several times to mate them, but its still there. Issue 2 and the bigger issues, any time the car attempts to build boost, it falls on its face. I only tried twice in my test drive yesterday, but both times as soon as I got around 3-4vac and in to boost, the car sputtered and fell flat.

TL, DR: Muffler attached. I have an exhaust leak and the downpipe is still having issues fitting. Can't build boost and not sure why.

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

I think that's an '80s truck actually.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

early 90's. 92-96.

Tekel

iTrader: (2)

Still having some issues. My wideband was reading nothing under 13.4 afr no matter what the situation and was jumping all over the place from 13.4-18. I figured the o2 sensor was shot so I replaced that today but now it's not reading under 14.6. I'm guessing the receiver is bad? Tunerstudio was reading in line with the gauge. It is an old used aem 35-8460

hornetball

iTrader: (4)

Misfires = Lean Readings (since Oxygen is present)

Tekel

iTrader: (2)

I don't know what was going on with the tune. I reflashed it and its fine now. I'm guessing it was autotune not knowing how to deal with the AFRs it was getting so it did crazyness. The car actually runs great right now (only drove it once because I don't actually know what the AFRs are). It pulled very smoothly and showed no signs of running lean. No pinging, no backfiring...

I'm waiting on my new AEM uego to come in and hope it is the gauge reading bad AFRs and not me actually getting those AFRs. If I replace that and I'm still getting these wonky AFR's, I guess the next step is pull my injectors and send them off to get cleaned. Tunerstudio target AFRs are much lower than what i'm reaching and no matter how I drive it, the gauge always reads the same lowest reading. To recap, installed wideband, nothing would read below 13.4. Replaced o2 sensor and then would read nothing below 14.3.

As far as the exhaust goes, i'm still having issues. No matter how I clamp it or adjust it, I can't stop the leak at my vband. On top of that, where the midpipe and downpipe mate is right at the thickest part of the transmission so I am still rubbing there. I plan on heading back to the exhaust shop and having them cut and shorten the downpipe and extend the midpipe so they mate up just 2-3" away from where they are now.

Tekel

iTrader: (2)

Wideband replaced and functioning. With my vast lack if knowledge and assumptions I may of spent a nice chunk of change I didn't need to.

I didn't even think about testing the wideband and o2 sensor with brake cleaner, so I first replaced my o2 and wouldn't get a reading below 14.8 and most of the time just 14.8, so out of frustration I ordered a new AEM uego. Well come to find out 14.8 is the default reading and will read that if for some reason no o2 is present or bad connection. Hooked up new gauge and still same thing WTF!?!!! Oh, my old wideband cable to the o2 that I was using didn't have the clip to secure the plugs so I wasn't plugged all the way in or it wiggled out. So I ran the new cable, tested both my o2 sensors and everything checked out! Including a nice burn from the midpipe while trying to reach around it to check the plug.

Tldr? I may of replaced the Wideband and o2 all because a loose plug.