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I've been using this since heatsink since I installed my first LC-1 wideband back in like 2009 or so. It's been used on an LC-1, LC-2, AEM UEGO, LC-2, and now an MTX-L in 3 different power configurations (N/A, Rotrex, Turbo) and 2 different ECUs (DIYPNP, MS3-Basic) and a p-p-p-p-p-p-p0wercard.
I'm concerned for the readings that wideband will give with that thing. Looks like an O2 space used to cover up catalyst codes to get by an emissions test. MIL is on, but the car blows clean. Put one of those in the down stream O2 and suddenly the ecu doesn't think the cat is bad anymore. Emissions passed.
I predict slow or in accurate wideband readings.
Innovate (the guys who made my LC-2) sell this specifically for use with their wideband sensors.
I made a DIY heat shield out of some sheet aluminum a few months ago and ran it for a couple track days. It seemed to do OK at the first one (aside from rattling like crazy), but at the TMR day the wideband was dropping out again. It's possible that this might simply be because I've already damaged the sensor on the car from running it bareback, but I decided to try the official solution with the new one.
I found a few writeups elsewhere on the net from guys who spaced it out with various crush washers. It's an 18mm washer, so I ordered a couple of different ones off Amazon and will see if I can get one the right thickness.
Drill moar holes at the correct index, but I think williams805 hit the nail on the head about slow reading and etc. I'd swiss cheese that thing if it was me.
I've been using a 4" diameter 0.0625" thick piece of brass with a hole drilled in the center as my O2 sensor gasket, It's been working great for years. The only O2 sensor I've have problems with is the one that I smashed the tip into the concrete last month.
The hosed are fairly precisely machined, the one that's supposed to face into the gas flow has a 90 degree turn in it (two holes drilled to intersect), and the second hole goes straight to the tip. It looks like it's designed to create some kind of venturi on the second hole.
Huh. That's where I ran my lc1 for 6 years with the rotrex without issue. Considerably less power being generated, though, so considerably less heat I suppose. My current lc2 is in the same location so we'll see how that goes.
Wouldn't you know I get the car out of the garage for the first time since parking it after MRLS, and the gauge is blinking 7.4 at me. Might have time to work on it tomorrow.
Yeah, Innovate says the heat sink thingey is primarily intended for turbo cars or rotaries (or, I imagine, especially for turbo rotaries).
The replacement sensor that I had was a 4.9, my previous one was a 4.2, so I needed to buy a new adapter cable and reflash the LC-2. A couple times since then it's failed to sync up properly, the MS3 is locked at 7.4 (or occasionally 22.7). Hooking up the serial port to the PC shows the correct output, but running it through the Reverant serial-to-CAN converter fails. I'm not sure why, it seems to spontaneously fix itself.
TK and I went out and retuned the fuel today. When I had the turbo off and was running in stock config a couple months ago, I had set the fuel pressure to a stock 60 psi, and when the turbo went back on I hadn't gotten the pressure setting back to the exact value that I had before so the whole table was off. It was about half a point rich everywhere, but it was easier to just re-tune the fuel table than to try to adjust it manually.
We also wired up the traction control system so that TC events can now be logged. This seemed to take an inordinate amount of time -- it's just running one wire between the TC LED on the panel and and a spare input on the Arduino, but it's amazing how long it takes to reconfigure the Arduino, MS3, and DL1 so that they all understand a new variable. It's not helped by the fact that the version of TS that I have installed keeps wedging and locking out the USB ports on the mac, forcing a reboot. Ah well, it's in there now and seems to work. This should make it much easier to figure out if the mysterious power drops that I was noticing at the TMR day was actually the TC kicking in where I didn't expect it to.
The AEM 02 sensor on my brothers car just took a dump. lol. It shows 14.4-14.5 for like 10-20 seconds and then says the UEGO sensor is offline. this is just a dead 02 right?
The AEM 02 sensor on my brothers car just took a dump. lol. It shows 14.4-14.5 for like 10-20 seconds and then says the UEGO sensor is offline. this is just a dead 02 right?
sry for thread jack.
I dunno what the failure modes on the AEM are, but that seems likely. Other possibilities are a problem with the wiring harness or a (least likely) a hardware failure in the controller.
So, the last track day I'd signed up for this year was yesterday. Before that, though, I needed to install my spare rotors:
These are surface cracks, the kind expected on rotors. Savington says the rule of thumb is to replace them when the cracks get to 1/3 of the width of the friction surface, so these were ready. They'd done about 4 track days, so much better life than I'd been seeing with the non-directional ones. Shiny replacement:
This event was at Thunderhill, so I headed down on Thursday.
Next morning it was wet/raining.
I only had RRs on the car, the first time I went out was very very slippery. As in sliding/spinning through turn 14 at about half the normal speed slippery. Doh.
There were a couple of cool Audis there, testing for the upcoming 25h race. These are Audi RS3 LMS turnkey race cars. $140K, converted to FWD and 330hp (to meet rules in some euro touring car series).
Don't need the Laguna exhaust here!
The OEM shifter in there looks odd.
After a few hours the sun came out!
In the afternoon I started getting a vibration on right handers and during braking. I thought it was a bad bearing, so I swapped a spare hub on:
That didn't help with the vibration though. When pulling it apart at home, I discovered the front left lower control arm bushings were mangled.
And yeah, that control arm is really dirty. It's covered in a nice mixture of silicone bushing lube, power steering fluid (from when the hose failed at the track over the summer) and sand/dirt/mud (from spinning off at turn 14 yesterday).
Try the AP racing J hook rotors next time. I have no cracking on mine so far after 6 days (3na/3boosted at Laguna)). This is about where the wilwood rotors would start cracking on me, and these look fine.
Mine never warped using Cobalts. They would last about 6 track days at ~200whp then start cracking as shown. I much prefer the AP racing rotors as they are much beefier in the hat attachment area and use a larger radius there as well.
Try the AP racing J hook rotors next time. I have no cracking on mine so far after 6 days (3na/3boosted at Laguna)). This is about where the wilwood rotors would start cracking on me, and these look fine.
Ian has lots more power. And is known for using the brakes too much
10-26-2017, 12:18 PM
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