When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Not much progress has been made this past week. I did move forward with the fueling system. I ordered a new DeatschWerks 340LPH fuel pump as my N54 fuel wouldn't do the job. Should be here by Saturday. I also bought a Hawley Performance Billet Lower Water Pump Inlet System about a week ago, still pending shipment. A fresh 1999 NB rolled into my local junkyard yesterday. After work I went over to harvest the valve cover, the injector pigtails and the steering wheel.
While removing the old fuel rail and injectors, I broke the retaining clips on injectors 1 & 2.
Test fitted the NB injector pig tail to the adapter for the ID1000s. It clips in and is snug.
I then cut off the two broken connectors from injectors 1 & 2, and I spliced them together to the NB pigtails.
Currently the unproud owner of 4 valve covers. I have the original on still on the engine. I have my first one I got from a 1995, I tried to do the cam cover cut and I accidentally butchered it. It is still usefully but not how I want it. I will probably end up painting it and posting it up for sale. The second one I got from a 1996? I cut the cam cover off perfectly, and enlarged the ports within the PCV. I drilled and tapped the breather ports for NPT. I wanted the AN fitting on the exhaust side port to sit as close to flush as possible and I sent it. I cracked off a piece off the valve cover. I attempted to salvage it by JBwelding it back on but it still doesn't sit right with me. Now, to the last valve cover. I will be treating this one a lot more nicely, and hopefully be my last one that I'll need for this cosmetic mod.
Finally got the two 90 degree AN4 fittings I needed to hook up the oil feed port to the turbo. The routing may look a little funky, but doing it this way prevent s the line from making contact with anything.
Better picture of the routing. Everything is tightened down.
I used two AN4 extensions and one 90 degree AN 4 fitting to make the oil feed port a cleaner shot.
I actually like the oil line routing. Looks like that routing keeps it pretty well away from the hot stuff and the fact that it doesn’t make contact with anything.
What’s the reason behind keeping the injector adapters? I remember running mine for about six months then ditching them because I wanted to clean up the harness for vanity lol.
I actually like the oil line routing. Looks like that routing keeps it pretty well away from the hot stuff and the fact that it doesn’t make contact with anything.
What’s the reason behind keeping the injector adapters? I remember running mine for about six months then ditching them because I wanted to clean up the harness for vanity lol.
Yeah, the original route made contact with the engine bay frame rail, was close to the downpipe, and still would have needed the some AN4 fittings to hook everything up.
The injector adapters came with the injectors, and I want to make it easy to go back to stock for CA smog (I also dislike like working with wires). After I got every snugged down nicely, I realized that I could route the injector adapters under the fuel rail to hide them better lol.
The ID1000's, and the M-tuned fuel rail are finally installed.
Don't mind the mess, but the Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator is now rebuilt, and installed.
The DeatschWerks 340LPH got here early, hopefully I can install it tomorrow along with the hardwire kit.
Drove to the junkyard after work to see if I could find anything usefully off this 1994 NA8. I saw the listing online, and the picture showed the car in great shape (Though it had been at the yard for over 8 days now...) I didn't think they made yellow 94's... Turns out the car was originally black, with a yellow respray. The car was picked clean of anything really useful. It had rained a few days ago, so the interior was flooded, and moldy. I only bought the heater core hardline that goes under the exhaust manifold, and the timing belt cover.
There was an E30 in the next row over, and I wanted to try something out. I removed the front brake caliper/rotor, and compared it to the NA8. The rotor seems to be the same size, but it would need a hub ring to center the rotor. The brake piston inside the calipers are about the same size, but the mounting holes on the miata are smaller. Obviously, it wasn't going to bolt on, but it's not impossible. I just don't have the skills, or tools to fabricate a bracket. You may ask why would one might want to do this?
Well, my other car is a BMW 340i, and I buy a lot of maintenance parts off FCPEuro. They warranty everything they sell for life, including oil, filters, brake rotors, and brake pads. If I could get the brake calipers to fit, I'd technically only would need to buy a set once, and I'd be set. Sure I'd need to pay for return shipping, but it could be worth it on a nice set of rotors/aggressive brake pads (Ferodo DS2500s, just like the ones I run in my 340i).
Then again, I don't know too much about the capabilities of our stock 1.8/sport brakes, and haven't done my research on whats available/how much.
The FCP Euro warranty deal still blows me away. My buddy uses FCP for all of his Boxster's pads and maintenance items, burns through them at the track and canyons, and they just swap em out no questions asked. Makes me wonder how they make any money at the end of the day. Maybe the crushing majority of euro drivers just don't take advantage of their deal?
Stock/sport brakes at ~200whp are fine for street, and fine for the occasional track day with the correct pads.
The FCP Euro warranty deal still blows me away. My buddy uses FCP for all of his Boxster's pads and maintenance items, burns through them at the track and canyons, and they just swap em out no questions asked. Makes me wonder how they make any money at the end of the day. Maybe the crushing majority of euro drivers just don't take advantage of their deal?
Stock/sport brakes at ~200whp are fine for street, and fine for the occasional track day with the correct pads.
I just received my replacement brake pads and rotors for the 340i. With the current pricing, my DS2500 brake pads, and the Zimmerman rotors set up comes out to roughly ~$1,250. I am so thankful for this lifetime warranty. Sure the prices of maintenance items goes up yearly, but I'll only really be out the shipping cost ,and the difference between what I paid then, and now.
My current OE brake pads are running low. I am going to be rebuilding the Sport brakes shortly after I get the Miata running. What do you recommend for rotors, and brake pads? The car for now will be street driven, but I am a roll bar away from trying out some autocross/beginner track day.
I'd be curious how that FPR works for you, I had issues with the compact units maintaining fuel pressure at high loads. Screw a real pressure sensor into the gauge port and monitor it with your ECU, it should track with boost pressure. Just make sure to hook up that vacuum line.
I'd be curious how that FPR works for you, I had issues with the compact units maintaining fuel pressure at high loads. Screw a real pressure sensor into the gauge port and monitor it with your ECU, it should track with boost pressure. Just make sure to hook up that vacuum line.
Thank you Curly, I will keep you posted here. I’m truly new to wrenching on this level, and I have never even considered that. I will add that to my to do list.
hey mate good progress, also made some progres on mine. a mate with a turbo NB reminded me to sort out oil pressure and temp guage before i went too far. i track my NA pretty hard so might be a good idea for you too if you plan too. he said he found adding the turbo to the oil circuit made the system not as effiecnt as it was and caused pressure drop from 60-30 on hard cornering. something to think about.
what base map will you use to get it running? also on my to do list.
hey mate good progress, also made some progres on mine. a mate with a turbo NB reminded me to sort out oil pressure and temp guage before i went too far. i track my NA pretty hard so might be a good idea for you too if you plan too. he said he found adding the turbo to the oil circuit made the system not as effiecnt as it was and caused pressure drop from 60-30 on hard cornering. something to think about.
what base map will you use to get it running? also on my to do list.
I appreciate the input, I’ll keep that in mind for when I’m looking to make this more reliable.
I’ll be using whatever base map that’s on the USB that came with the ecu. I’ll do my best to improve on it.
Unfortunately that connection for the fuel pump will eventually melt, but mine didn't melt enough to come loose for many years. I will throw a pair of bulkhead connectors in my car, remind me to give them to you at the next drag racing event, maybe even a bracket race the Monday before Wednesday night drags. I should be there both Monday and Wednesday, happy to meet you at the gate on that Monday if you don't want to pay the entrance fee.
Unfortunately that connection for the fuel pump will eventually melt, but mine didn't melt enough to come loose for many years. I will throw a pair of bulkhead connectors in my car, remind me to give them to you at the next drag racing event, maybe even a bracket race the Monday before Wednesday night drags. I should be there both Monday and Wednesday, happy to meet you at the gate on that Monday if you don't want to pay the entrance fee.
I really like what you did here with your setup. Once I get my hands on a spare fuel pump assembly, I'll go with your beefier setup.
I didn't realize that you had Miata specific DW pump harness, didn't know such a thing even existed. Might be totally fine forever, mine was definitely spliced to the original Mazda connector with a couple inches of the Mazda wire too. It was the Mazda wires that got too hot, the DW side didn't show any signs of melting anything. I am definitely going to help you redo those crimps outside the tank though.
Yeah those look crimped by pliers. Give them a good tug, they shouldn't come apart. You can get some budget ratchet crimpers for pretty cheap these days:
Injector Pig Tails & Valve Cover Collection
0
