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Not much progress has been made this past week. I did move forward with the fueling system. I ordered a new DeatschWerks 340LPH fuel pump as my N54 fuel wouldn't do the job. Should be here by Saturday. I also bought a Hawley Performance Billet Lower Water Pump Inlet System about a week ago, still pending shipment. A fresh 1999 NB rolled into my local junkyard yesterday. After work I went over to harvest the valve cover, the injector pigtails and the steering wheel.
While removing the old fuel rail and injectors, I broke the retaining clips on injectors 1 & 2.
Test fitted the NB injector pig tail to the adapter for the ID1000s. It clips in and is snug.
I then cut off the two broken connectors from injectors 1 & 2, and I spliced them together to the NB pigtails.
Currently the unproud owner of 4 valve covers. I have the original on still on the engine. I have my first one I got from a 1995, I tried to do the cam cover cut and I accidentally butchered it. It is still usefully but not how I want it. I will probably end up painting it and posting it up for sale. The second one I got from a 1996? I cut the cam cover off perfectly, and enlarged the ports within the PCV. I drilled and tapped the breather ports for NPT. I wanted the AN fitting on the exhaust side port to sit as close to flush as possible and I sent it. I cracked off a piece off the valve cover. I attempted to salvage it by JBwelding it back on but it still doesn't sit right with me. Now, to the last valve cover. I will be treating this one a lot more nicely, and hopefully be my last one that I'll need for this cosmetic mod.
Finally got the two 90 degree AN4 fittings I needed to hook up the oil feed port to the turbo. The routing may look a little funky, but doing it this way prevent s the line from making contact with anything.
Better picture of the routing. Everything is tightened down.
I used two AN4 extensions and one 90 degree AN 4 fitting to make the oil feed port a cleaner shot.
I actually like the oil line routing. Looks like that routing keeps it pretty well away from the hot stuff and the fact that it doesn’t make contact with anything.
What’s the reason behind keeping the injector adapters? I remember running mine for about six months then ditching them because I wanted to clean up the harness for vanity lol.
I actually like the oil line routing. Looks like that routing keeps it pretty well away from the hot stuff and the fact that it doesn’t make contact with anything.
What’s the reason behind keeping the injector adapters? I remember running mine for about six months then ditching them because I wanted to clean up the harness for vanity lol.
Yeah, the original route made contact with the engine bay frame rail, was close to the downpipe, and still would have needed the some AN4 fittings to hook everything up.
The injector adapters came with the injectors, and I want to make it easy to go back to stock for CA smog (I also dislike like working with wires). After I got every snugged down nicely, I realized that I could route the injector adapters under the fuel rail to hide them better lol.
The ID1000's, and the M-tuned fuel rail are finally installed.
Don't mind the mess, but the Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator is now rebuilt, and installed.
The DeatschWerks 340LPH got here early, hopefully I can install it tomorrow along with the hardwire kit.
Drove to the junkyard after work to see if I could find anything usefully off this 1994 NA8. I saw the listing online, and the picture showed the car in great shape (Though it had been at the yard for over 8 days now...) I didn't think they made yellow 94's... Turns out the car was originally black, with a yellow respray. The car was picked clean of anything really useful. It had rained a few days ago, so the interior was flooded, and moldy. I only bought the heater core hardline that goes under the exhaust manifold, and the timing belt cover.
There was an E30 in the next row over, and I wanted to try something out. I removed the front brake caliper/rotor, and compared it to the NA8. The rotor seems to be the same size, but it would need a hub ring to center the rotor. The brake piston inside the calipers are about the same size, but the mounting holes on the miata are smaller. Obviously, it wasn't going to bolt on, but it's not impossible. I just don't have the skills, or tools to fabricate a bracket. You may ask why would one might want to do this?
Well, my other car is a BMW 340i, and I buy a lot of maintenance parts off FCPEuro. They warranty everything they sell for life, including oil, filters, brake rotors, and brake pads. If I could get the brake calipers to fit, I'd technically only would need to buy a set once, and I'd be set. Sure I'd need to pay for return shipping, but it could be worth it on a nice set of rotors/aggressive brake pads (Ferodo DS2500s, just like the ones I run in my 340i).
Then again, I don't know too much about the capabilities of our stock 1.8/sport brakes, and haven't done my research on whats available/how much.
The FCP Euro warranty deal still blows me away. My buddy uses FCP for all of his Boxster's pads and maintenance items, burns through them at the track and canyons, and they just swap em out no questions asked. Makes me wonder how they make any money at the end of the day. Maybe the crushing majority of euro drivers just don't take advantage of their deal?
Stock/sport brakes at ~200whp are fine for street, and fine for the occasional track day with the correct pads.