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LeBoeuf's build...
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I finally got moved into my new place and finally have a garage again. I spent the past week elbows deep in the miata after work each night.
I have plans to do an engine and diff swap and acquired the parts to do so, but the death shimmy and shake at 65mph+ meant that those items are on hold for a bit. This week I installed new ball joints/94 r pkg tie rod ends/inner tie rods/steering rack bushings. Here's some pics of my little helper lovingly referred to as "spare cat". He's a stray that took up residence in my in-laws junk yard (now a fully spoiled indoor cat :) ) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408216785 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408216785 The manual rack is beautifully simple; inpected, cleaned, regreased: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408216785 New bushings: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408216785 Also installed some bilstein sports/nb tophats/allstar sleeves that I picked up from a guy who bought them from track I believe: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-R...-no/2014-08-13 Mmmm fresh parts.... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1...-no/2014-08-13 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408216785 Sits right nice: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408216785 Aaand soon, got these parts from forum members.... Going to do bushings and ms3x next... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408216785 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-U...o/P5120008.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3...o/IMAG0596.jpg |
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I had my first track event ever last night! What a riot.
The new suspension is 100x better than my old 205k mile stock setup. With all the new parts I no longer feel like my life is in danger once I exceed 65mph. I feel like it went really well. I'm on 205 khumo ecstas on a 6.5" rim and they were clearly the limiting factor in my speed. The rest of the car felt really good for my ~$1500 of car/parts. For any NM guys, what kind of times do you run at Motiva? 1:47.8 was my best lap; there's certainly room for improvement. Even with just better tires; the 90hp of fury hasn't seen its full potential out there. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408217359 |
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I finished off the poly bushing install over the weekend. That was certainly a lot of work; my fingers and elbow joints are still sore.
Even with the alignment rather messed up, the ride is substantially improved. I noticed my rear suspension was constantly on the bumpstops even with 5.25" height from the pinch welds. After taking about .75" off the rear bumpstops I'm no longer getting jarred on larger bumps. These bushings are a major win and come highly recommended. I picked mine up from Fab9 for a very reasonable price. I zerk'd everything except for the upper rear joints. I will probably go back and add them at a later time, but during the install the clearances didn't look good. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409672962 I used 45 degree zerks for the odd inner rear joints: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409672962 Which give great access: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409672962 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1409672962 This thing rocked: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4...o/P8310416.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P...o/P8300412.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7...o/P8310421.JPG |
Nice bushing press.
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I got my ms3x kit in and decided that I needed something to sit on in order to solder it together.
I've always wanted a solid shop stool so I found two mediocre 2x4's and went to work. (only the finest mortise and tenon joinery in my 2x4 furniture) https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_...o/P9180456.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--...o/P9180457.JPG Bam https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-o...o/P9190458.JPG Then I proceeded to put together this megasquirt. Very well labelled and setup kit from diyautotune: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8...o/P9210459.JPG |
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This kit/software is really well put together.... I remember trying to do this stuff with piggybacks and narrowband sensors back in high school/undergrad.... haha a decade of advancement has made this stuff so much easier...
A touch of mapdot with some autotune and this thing is already road worthy... I need to find out why my baro correction is showing as "INVALID"... I've got two independent sensors... I must not have it setup right https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412054815 Check out my base kpa :D. There's no power up here but the views are worth it! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412054815 Local drive for testing upgrades :D https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412054815 I did this with a connector from newunitedracetech.com: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412054815 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412054815 Works great! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412054815 |
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After driving around all week with my electronics strewn about my passenger floor, I've decided that I trust the setup enough to sacrifice some zip ties to the cause.
I also stopped by the autozone "performance" aisle and grabbed a cheapo air filter while dodging teenagers looking at exhaust tips. A quick trip to the hardware store later, I had my afm removed and more zip ties deployed. And now I'm at a crossroads... I should probably continue enjoying my 1.6l of fury while I do a rods build on my 1.8l engine. Hmmm are the rods usually honed to fit each wrist pin individually? Or do you guys just plop them in there? I've never opened a miata engine so I'm not too sure what exactly I'm in for. Anyway I need to move the oil return so the pan's coming off... I guess I'll just start there and see... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412316744 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412316744 |
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Well my ms3x and ricer cone were worth 4+ seconds at the track :D I even did some ice skating on lap 2 to make sure I had the right transponder...
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413094972 With the car now within 10ish seconds of the SM record I decided to just build my spare engine and keep the car running. The engine looks kinda clean on the outside; leakdown is ~2% cold on all 4; crankshaft endplay is 0.008 which isn't stellar but is within spec. After digging into it a little I think the crank might need some work. What do you guys think of the main journal? The scratches can be felt but I wouldn't say they catch the fingernail. I've never seen a mediocre journal... only brand new polished journals or completely borked ones... No flash: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413094972 Flash: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413094972 Bearing: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413094972 Conrod journals look a little better: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413094972 Piston bores look serviceable. There is scuffing but it can barely be felt. I've honed this level of scuff once upon a time and it worked out fine, do you guys usually just do a simple hone for this kind of wear? (I did not succeed in getting a decent photo... pics look worse than it is) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413094972 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413094972 Head looks good. I scraped some of the deposits off of the det prone areas and everything looks good to my eye. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413094972 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413094972 I'll probably just pull the crank out and take it to a machine shop and see what they think. |
Are you using locking or keyed lug nuts? They supposedly can contribute to the imbalance that makes the 65mph shimmy, fwiw.
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Yeah without feeling them I'd say those look fine. New bearings and maybe polish the crank surfaces. Good start though.
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I am using keyed lug nuts. The plan is to put new wheel bearings in on all corners and see if that gets it... There are 210k miles on chassis so I can't say I'm too surprised.
It's funny, I'm willing to pull the suspension and whatnot apart but I really wish I didn't need to pull the crank out because I don't want to have to clean the oil pump gasket surfaces hah. We'll see how much a crank polish is at the shop; I've read about some shadetree techniques involving sandpaper but I have limits on how far I'll go to save $50. |
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Well found some more crank wear... The thrust bearing is completely shot. Crank did not contact the block or anything, but there is a decent groove on the crank thrust surface that looks out of place. Odd seeing as how the endplay was within spec. I just caught this with dumb luck I guess.
I noticed that there are oversized thrust bearings available so hopefully the crank can be machined. Any advice/war stories would be welcomed :) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413176543 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413176543 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413176543 On a better note I had a good day a week back at the junk yard. Found a pristine oem aluminum hood to replace my ill fitting steel one. Also scored what looks to be a freshly rebuilt shifter with all clean boots, a clean oil cooler from a turbo volvo, and a set of ls2 coils. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413176543 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1413176543 |
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Well my crankshaft and block are still at the machine shop. I haven't had any luck finding oversized thrust washer's that are actually stocked. My machinist claims he can find some, so I'm waiting... Kinda on the fence, at this point I should probably just buy another crank and move on, but I'd prefer to support my machinist instead of some random ebay seller...
I've been keeping the project rolling by derusting some brake parts I picked up. Add a little sodium carbonate and some low voltage DC and before you know it you have rust free parts. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415598140 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415598140 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415598140 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415598140 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415598140 After that was all wrapped up I decided to replace all of my wheel bearings. The fonts took about 30 minutes. The rear..... good grief... The rear axles had become one with the hubs. I tried to use a buddy's shop press which didn't work out. I then moved on to more old school techniques and sledge hammered them out thor style with a 5lb hammer. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415598140 I followed the sticky on the site for the bearing replacement. The only thing to add is that I used a puller to get the race off the hub. A 22mil socket fit the hub perfectly to give something to push on. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415598140 Since my axles were pretty much destroyed after the sledge hammer situation I decided to put my 1.8 kaaz diff in. With the poly bushings and clutch packs, the noises are pretty inspiring. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1415598140 The car feels really great with the new bearings and driveline. It's finally rock solid at all speeds. |
Nice Progress! The zerk fittings were a nice touch.
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I've been making slow winter progress on the car (too much skiing and other awesome stuff :D). I picked up an AHP ac/dc tig around Thanksgiving and have been learning how to aluminum weld. If you're in the market, I've been pretty pleased with the welder for the price I paid.
Added a 1/2" bung for my oil return. It looks kind of huge. I guess most do a 3/8"? Better to be too large than small hah. I also added a 3/8" over the drain plug for a temp sensor and a 1/4" on the water neck for my coolant lines. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/cZ...c=w494-h878-no https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4...2015-01-04.jpg https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1420476366 Welding the oil pan has been interesting... Some times it goes great and other times it gets strange with porosity and unexpected contamination... But it looks like what I accomplished should be fine. My engine is finally back on the stand and I should be fitting pistons tonight! After futzing around with the wrong machinists I found an actual crank grinder who just welded/reground the thrust surface. More updates on that tonight... |
Nope, 1/2 NPT is great for an oil drain. Bigger the better, but above 1/2" is stupid.
Your 3/8NPT for the oil temp sensor however, is too big. Most sensors are 1/8" NPT. |
Hrrmm... My plan was to use this GM one:
GM Closed Element CLT / IAT Sensor with Connector DIYAutoTune.com Didn't really look into if it was ok for oil; I can't see why it wouldn't be? |
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More progress...
Did a lot of skiing, got radical, made some in wall speakers, finished my engine rebuild, and removed one nasty 210Kmile engine. It's been a busy Jan-now. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425881661 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425881661 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425881661 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425881661 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425881661 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425881661 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425881661 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425881661 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425881661 Nasty https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425881661 Nasty nasty https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425881661 Minor oil leaks..... everywhere https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1425881661 |
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Making some decent progress. Got the engine dropped in just in time to find that the previous engine owner left me yet another little surprise.
I picked up another valve on fleabay so now I have a solid week to clean up loose ends while I wait for that. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B...317_235916.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t...321_220725.jpg Ehhhhh I was told everything was in working order lol. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1426999427 |
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https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1427029007
Looks good. That's what I plan to do, but with a -6AN bung. What 2 water outputs are you going to run there? |
Basically I just used the front neck to link the throttle body coolant to the mixing manifold. I live in the mountains and drive the car in sub-freezing temps so the TB needs to be warmed. Also it serves to keep some coolant flow through the front of the head.
Once the turbo comes into the picture the port will be linked to the snail. I really like having just simple npt bungs in my systems to keep my options open. May I ask why the -AN fitting? I suppose they do make removal a lot easier. |
NPT fitting to AN10/8.
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Originally Posted by leboeuf
(Post 1217467)
Basically I just used the front neck to link the throttle body coolant to the mixing manifold. I live in the mountains and drive the car in sub-freezing temps so the TB needs to be warmed. Also it serves to keep some coolant flow through the front of the head.
Once the turbo comes into the picture the port will be linked to the snail. I really like having just simple npt bungs in my systems to keep my options open. May I ask why the -AN fitting? I suppose they do make removal a lot easier. Aidandj: "NPT fitting to AN10/8." Is this for potential repair purposes? I had considered it vs an -AN bung, but that is an extra fitting. |
Ahh hard lines; that makes sense.
I finished off a quick bracket to mount my coils last night. This will likely be temporary until I get my ls2 coils installed. I'm trying to change as little as possible for the initial phase of the engine swap. Clearance is tight (1/8"-1/4")... Will probably pull things apart and grind down some spots. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Z...323_000742.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1...323_000757.jpg |
doublepostdoubletrouble
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More progress!:
I need a temporary exhaust to hold me over until I get the turbo stuff fabbed. Naturally I went to the lowes exhaust flange department and glued some metal together. After that was wrapped up I spent the rest of the weekend rewiring large sections of my engine harness and lengthening/shortening things as needed. All of the connectors came from ballenger motor sports; highly recommend these guys! https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-R...326_213054.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-u...326_223917.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-K...2015-03-28.jpg Cut ~1" off the existing NA exhaust. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-p...329_234418.jpg Snipped the existing CAS connector and added a weatherpack in its place: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-J...328_191507.jpg First start will hopefully be tonight or tomorrow. My clutch slave graciously decided to die sometime over the weekend as well, so I'm waiting on a new one for the time being. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-z...329_234306.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B...329_234327.jpg The fuel line on the brake vacuum hardline is for mockup. I have an oem one on the way. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-y...329_234349.jpg |
Oh man, is that a cal-spec header? I shuddered.
nice work on the exhaust flange too, that's pretty damn gorgeous. |
Haha I have no idea about the header. It at least doesn't have the cat incorporated into it. I can say that it is not light... Its funny I daily drive a b2600i and it almost has the exact same cast manifold.
Hopefully it doesn't get used for too long... I hope to start on the turbo manifold as soon as the engine is broken in. |
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Well she's up and running. Sounds pretty smooth to my ears. We shall see how the break in period goes, but for now the engine is not smoking/leaking/burning stuff other than gas.
The intake is for mockup while I wait on some silicone 90deg pieces to finish it off. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_...405_235428.jpg Ummm just keep patching it? :party: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1428331638 I also decided to make my MS3 installation a little more permanent with a bracket https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-O...405_223814.jpg Boom https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-w...405_230342.jpg Next project will be wheels and a 6 point half cage thing. |
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A friend generously sold me some lightly used rs3's for a really good price. Luckily just in time for our time attack this weekend.
My transmission is on its last legs and the engine is barely broken in so I decided to just short shift at 6krpm and see how it did. Wellll I dropped 5 seconds/lap :D Down from a 1:42.0x to a l:37.01 on my first session. Pretty sure this setup (with me driving) can get well into the 1:34's. I think the SM record is 1:32 or 1:33. Fastest lap of the day was an exige at 1:31.4. These things are big hah https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1...415_232107.jpg https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1429499654 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1429499654 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/7J...U=w969-h587-no |
Rollbar. It's more important than new wheels.
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^^^ But these are 9 inch wheels? :party:
Will these ingredients bake me a roll bar cake? https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kz...=w762-h1354-no |
Still waiting on my tubing bender purchase to go through so I started on numerous other projects.
This whole project is being done to increase my fabrication skills so I decided to tackle the manifold design. This started with making a jig to get the collector cuts done. It took a lot of cuts to get my head around how to compensate for the saw blade correctly. Good thing I started with pvc ;) https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nF...=w762-h1354-no After many attempts I drew a mockup on my morning coffee cup and got things figured out https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7-...=w762-h1354-no Then proceeded to just make the entire thing out of PVC. Obviously these bends will be a lot different with the longer radius bends so this was just for placement and practice. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gY...=w762-h1354-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Nt...=w1204-h677-no I'm in the process of swapping transmissions so my exhaust was already out; may as well put it on there. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/X7...=w1204-h677-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mg...=w1204-h677-no Turbo placement looks ok. There's over an inch of clearance everywhere and the downpipe route looks pretty wide open. I don't like how cantilevered the turbo is, but with this FAB9 inspired sidemount, that's just where it ends up. I'll try and get the turbo closer to the block on the metal version. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UY...=w1204-h677-no |
The collector is done and the turbo placement has been finalized.
Welding the valley of the merge is really not that easy. Kudos to those of you that can make that area look good... I just put 1/3 of a rod's worth of metal in there. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C8...w=w514-h913-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Mo...A=w514-h913-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/77...k=w514-h913-no Location looks like it should be just right. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ck...Y=w514-h913-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Iu...g=w514-h913-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eX...A=w514-h913-no |
Manifold progress!
This is kind of fun. I've just been free handing the cuts on the bandsaw which has worked out really great. Also the harborF... 6 inch belt/disk sander thing has been awesome (other than the fact that I have to give it a little push to get going hah) The runners all maintain the radius of weld elbows. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/1r...w=w524-h931-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YL...0=w920-h518-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bB...4=w920-h518-no |
looking great so far man
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Originally Posted by Sirnixalot
(Post 1242000)
looking great so far man
I've got the manifold pretty much wrapped up. I'm going to wait to weld the head flange until I have a good heat sink. My plan is to use the big cast iron manifold currently on the car, but I won't get around to pulling that off for a bit. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4S...=w1204-h677-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AV...=w1204-h677-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bn...=w1204-h677-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5D...=w1204-h677-no I also got a newly balanced rotating assembly with a new large trim turbine wheel for my t28. I had the work done at gpopshop. Can't say enough good things about these guys. There was a minor issue with my order and they immediately owned up to it and went out of their way to correct the situation. I wouldn't go anywhere else to have work done on a turbo. Shown next to a t25 assembly: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/E8...0=w600-h900-no |
Very nice manifold. While it's out, you seem to have the fabrication skills to make either a lower brace or crane. I'd highly suggest it.
Personally, I'd weld something like what the factory uses on 1.6 headers for the heat shield. I'd put 1-2 (but bigger than m6) on that #4 runner, and brace it down to an engine mount bolt or something. |
<p>I know <span>@bbundy uses a "diving board" brace. Which I assume means that it supports the weight of the turbo without directly tying it to the block, giving it room to flex. I would worry that triangulating the manifold to the engine mount could cause stress when heating up the manifold. Unless you have run FEA on your designs or whatever you MEs use.</span></p>
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Great work!
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Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1243549)
<p>Unless you have run FEA on your designs or whatever you MEs use.</p>
I'll think on the brace for a bit. Do we have any OEM examples of braces? In other news my turbo rebuild continues to throw me curve balls. Ever seen this bolt pattern on a t25/t28 thrust bearing? The standard t25 thrust bearing is on top: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aw...c=w514-h913-no |
<p>Did you build your manifold with the AHP tig?</p>
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Indeed, all welds in this thread were done with the AHP. There are some aluminum shots somewhere in here.
Just between you and me, everything was done with the thing plugged into 120v. :party: |
<p>Fuck. Yes. I'm buying this as soon as my first paycheck comes. 120v is perfect.</p>
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This roll bar thing is almost complete. Just need to get the diagonal brace tacked.
My plan for now is to make bolt in door bars that will connect to plates welded into the rocker panel and main hoop. The jd2 bender is awesome. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xN...=w1280-h720-no Full size template is the only way :) https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/50...=w1280-h720-no 1 of the 1E10 mockups https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Sq...=w1280-h720-no Copied the hard dog feet https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pN...I=w514-h913-no Getting close https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Uc...=w1280-h720-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8O...=w1280-h720-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/m6...A=w514-h913-no Fitment is as close as possible to the softop metal bits. It actually contacts the fabric a little. While sitting in my normal spot there's about 3" of clearance from my noggin to the bars. |
I got close to just plopping the unpainted roll bar in there and calling it, but I decided to take my time and get my door bar mount points welded in. I did get it painted last night and will re-start the awful experience of shoehorning this thing in tonight. The main hoop legs contracted about 1" after welding, but I think I got that taken care of with a 2x4 and a bottle jack.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/k3...=w1280-h720-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hU...=w1280-h720-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nm...=w1280-h720-no These should make door bar installation/removal an easy task. I'm going to weld a receiver in the rocker sill area like blackbird does. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/h1...0=w514-h913-no |
[LL][/LL]Looking good. I like how you did the door bar mounts.
Oh I plan on plagiarizing your turbo manifold to the best of my abilities, hope you don't mind :bowrofl: |
^^^ Thanks! Feel free to use anything on my thread. Let me know if you want the angles on my collector and whatnot.
I finally finished off the roll bar and door bars. That was a lot of work... $1400 from blackbird fabworx is a pretty good deal! I welded in receiver plates into the door sills: A word of caution: The seam on the sill is glued with some tar substance that explodes when it gets hot. I don't recommend welding that seam with a tig, maybe a mig with flux core wire in it instead. I only have a tig at the moment and that section involved a lot of tungsten grinding... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/br...0=w903-h677-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HU...w=w903-h677-no Then I welded a shoe to mount to the plates: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BE...0=w903-h677-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/B3...4=w903-h677-no Sweet https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ag...Y=w903-h677-no All done https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/G6...U=w903-h677-no Haven't gotten around to making my finish panels fit... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UL...M=w903-h677-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/te...Q=w903-h677-no All in all I'm pretty happy with the end result. It's actually not all that bad getting in and out of the car. The only thing I didn't think about is that my manual window handles now collide with the door bar. I'll probably just shorten them an inch. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pZ...U=w903-h677-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7G...o=w903-h677-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2D...c=w903-h677-no |
Well my oil cooler is mounted... barely. The unit itself fits fine, but the fittings are HUGE and will be right at the bottom of my bumper. The lines may get reworked, I may even just buy the 12 row... I also had to remove the plastic fender braces so there's still some more work to do to get the lines protected and the fender back to braced.
Bracketry https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ft...k=w514-h913-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PR...A=w514-h913-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bv...=w1280-h720-no Ducts are from RPW. They were formed with a heatgun and attached with double sided tape. The duct on the driver side is to feed my airbox; more on that later. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ru...=w1280-h720-no |
Uh, harness bar?
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Damn. Now I need to build door bars. What kind of bends did you put in yours.
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1258314)
Uh, harness bar?
Really though I do have a plan for a bar once I get to that phase of the project. I'm going to weld receivers onto the seat belt towers and make a removable bar that will look a lot like my door bars. This car will stay a soft top and a glass rear window is a must have for me personally. I *think* I can make the harness bar work from the seat belt towers and retain my glass window. That project will likely involve seat mounting/etc. so its on hold for now.
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1258337)
Damn. Now I need to build door bars. What kind of bends did you put in yours.
In other news I decided to stop being dumb and ordered the 90 deg npt to an fittings. My lines will at least be well contained within the bumper plastic. This also freed up enough space to use the stock fender bracing. I'm just going to beef up the little connecting bars and call it good. |
8 Attachment(s)
Soooo while I was waiting for parts to show up I decided to take a little (40 mile) walk near Santa Fe:
Oh New Mexico... :likecat: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X.../P8220879.JPG? https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n.../P8210780.JPG? https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-u.../P8210768.JPG? Once my walkabout was done I got back to the car. I'm really not sure how effective this will be but I figured I'd give it a try. The elbow is tacked in 4 spots then the gaps are filled with aluminum tape. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Q...30_161251.jpg? The 90 degree fittings give plenty of clearance from the bottom of the bumper; apparently I didn't get a shot with the bumper on hmmmm. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j...02_230136.jpg? I used some flexible spa hose stuff to make a ducting of sorts to get the oil lines into the engine bay. Its working out great: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-i...02_230337.jpg? The intake plumbs into this box that I made out of scraps of sheet metal... This is all temporary as the turbo will be going in within a month or so. I also cut some corners and just tacked the intake together and finished it with aluminum tape. Seems to be just fine. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-l...06_205607.jpg? https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V...06_205758.jpg? The overall results with the new oil cooler and air box have been reallllly good. I still don't have an oil temp gauge, but with the addition of the cooler and switching to rotella t6, my oil pressure has almost doubled under heavy loads... Makes me wish I had done this sooner... The intake box seems to be really effective as well. I let everything heatsoak while standing still to a good 120F and within a mile of my house my MAT's were already at ambient. Now I just need injectors and a fuel pump; then I really won't have any excuses not to bolt the turbo on... |
Google's been letting me down lately...
Pics fixed? Between google messing up their photo service and this sites rehosting going down..... The key was to use picasa web albums which apparently still exists and to add a ? at the end of my image path. |
Nope.
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Back at it.... Had a lot of home projects to do the last few months that really got in the way of my car time. Other than my terrible autozone alternator already dying (and outputting 18v :eggplant: ), the car has been doing really great.
It seems that google fixed their image hosting since I posted last. (hopefully) Finished off my manifold the other night: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-k...16_230225.jpg? And started on my downpipe :) https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4...16_230251.jpg? There's a good bit of room to work with. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X...16_234610.jpg? |
Why did you use pie cuts instead of a mandrel bend
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Ehh a bunch of reasons:
-welding practice -the radius is actually pretty tight -bend is 105 degrees -didn't feel like buying expensive mandrel bends that might not fit -I like caterpillars |
Originally Posted by aidandj
(Post 1292874)
Why did you use pie cuts instead of a mandrel bend
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