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Hey guys, started a thread over at CR but decided to do a turbo build instead... figured I could get more support/feedback from you guys.
Shooting for a ~250WHP DD or maybe a little less.
**I will be posting lots and lots of pictures going into detail and logging everything I'm doing.
I'll probably need a lot of help with setting up and wiring MS3. (Will be following Braineack's write up)
Picked up a 2000 SE back in May 179k on the clock, and currently the 2nd owner on this car!!
Needs some new body stuff, typical interior wear and tear but overall in good condition. Picked it up for a steal because Cyl4 misfire. Went through the easy stuff and then did a compression test. 0 on cyl4 so i yanked the motor and decided to do a rebuild.
Finally got time to take everything apart 2 weeks ago.
Valve in CYL4 had a piece missing...
Head will be all stock w/ damaged valve replaced of course...
Block will have stock pistons with the maxpeeding China rods + ARP bolts, ACL bearings, and Sealed Power ring kit.
Looking good so far! Are you going to do the oil pump while you are in there? It's a pricey addition to a more budget-oriented rebuild, but the boundary pump is probably still a good call.
Looking good so far! Are you going to do the oil pump while you are in there? It's a pricey addition to a more budget-oriented rebuild, but the boundary pump is probably still a good call.
Thanks!! and definitely, ordered a Boundary pump last night through Fab9. Took advantage of their black Friday discount.
I'll go more into this when it comes in and make a post about it.
Since I'll be cleaning up the engine bay some, decided I don't need power steering.
**Side note I can delete all the sensors near passenger shock town when going MS, right?
charcoal canister is already gone, haven't found much info on the sensors. The tucks I've seen they were just moved into the fender. From what I gather all those sensors work with EGR system and can be removed.
Moving on, here is what I did to depower my 00' NB rack, not going to cover everything since there are write ups out there I'll just show what to watch out for.
I followed Carpassionchannels depower DIY & https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=624312
Be careful with this nut. It is dimpled preventing people from tampering with the rack i guess? I had a difficult time with this nut both taking it out (I carefully used a flat head to try and pry it up a bit) and harder time putting it back in, EVEN after i cleaned up the threads and grounded down the area that had the dimple. So attempt at your own risk!
I found it easy to cut the slits on opposing sides. Without having to cut very close you can take a flat head and turn to open it up.
Basically remove everything except the bearing (you can follow the link i posted) and weld it up, supposedly this is the correct way to depower and get better handling.
I'm using the factory hard lines as plugs. Don't remember where I saw this but I cut off the flange and welded the top shut. Now you have the perfect plugs.
Also cut/weld the banjo fittings and the stock oil line bolts will go back in. OR you can just get the correct size allen plugs (I might do this later on)
Give everything a deep clean, grease it up, and assemble (You can follow carpassionchannels instructions on torque and all that)
Worth it? I don't know
Looking good!.
I got rid of all those passenger side sensors. No ill effects found.
what turbo parts are you planning on?
That's good to know! Haven't found definite answers so thanks for that. Planning on doing the DIY log manifold with a China T28. I hear the main problems with these are the waste gate ports, so I'll be closing it off and running an external.
Used this chance to pressure washed the bay and tucked the drive side wires.
It's a great investment!! took off all the gunk/sludge/oil from the sub frame.
Going with a lowkey look with the wrinkle black valve cover.
I know deleting the water neck might look cleaner but i think keeping it is easier for maintenance.
Super annoyed because i bought a kit off a site called "AUTOTECH MOTORING". The picture they had of the DIY manifold kit showed a flange similar to the mazworx flange but cheaper and local to me, which is pretty much the only reason i ordered it.
Anyways definitely wasn't the case, claimed it was a generic photo (they need a disclaimer) and had a back and forth altercation with the flange and SCH10 pipes too... anyways don't want to bore you with all the details.
After days of debate they refunded me $40, which was nice... because none of the holes on the damn flange fit!! Supposedly they supply these flanges to many Miata manifold builders with no issues. I asked for a replacement flange and they said they had no more... hmmmm.
I know the owner of Mazworx personally and his stuff is always top notch. You should have gone that way. He uses CNC machines to make entire engine blocks out of Billet aluminum and crazy stuff like that over there.
I know the owner of Mazworx personally and his stuff is always top notch. You should have gone that way. He uses CNC machines to make entire engine blocks out of Billet aluminum and crazy stuff like that over there.
Yea the Mazworx products are beautiful! Oh wells, gotta make due with what i have. Will be finishing up the manifold this week hopefully.
11-20-2018, 10:43 AM
LOWKEY NB semi-budget turbo build
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