turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Hory shet.

10's?

Scaxx

Yes sir!

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

I'm doing this next year. Yes. 10's on 245 RC1's. Yes.

Scaxx

I'm hoping to get some rc1's soon, not really sure when. Hoping to start bringing in some cash with side jobs after midterms. I have that valve cover job and I should be able to line up some welding jobs, getting better at tig which should help bring in some funds.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

hold off on the 245 rc-1's.
start off on some 195's all seasons. you need to experience blowing the tires off at 3000rpm in any gear.

Scaxx

Best choice at this point is probably to stretch some 195's onto the 6uls so I can fit in with all the stance kids. In all seriousness though, I have wondered if some newer stock miata 15's will fit over the brakes, wouldn't mind throwing some cheap 195's on a spare set of rims and learning a little throttle control. They're the ones that are currently on brad in the rear, the gold ones lol. I'll see if they fit when I get home from school today, it would get it on the road faster since tires are one of my last bigger expenses.

Scaxx

Considering holding off on the tilton unit and maybe going with an ls7 style clutch. There's a new one near me for 500, I know I can pick one up from tick for 550 shipped so I might see if he'll go a little lower, but what do you guys (Johnny) think? The tilton would be awesome but will make it quite a bit more of a pain to drive on the street along with more expensive. I also need a different throwout bearing as well as slave. I really wanted a really lightweight clutch/flywheel set up but at the same time I really want this car on the road and the ls7 style would save me about $700ish.

On another note I need an ls1 style pilot bearing because of my t56, not expensive but something I figured I should write down so I don't forget about it.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

are you talking about a tilton ceramic tiny clutch? those are nightmares on the street. i have a plane zoom clutch from vato zone. the car is so light, and the tires are so small that it never gets a workout. spend your money on a good aftermarket throw out bearing/slave.

Scaxx

I was planning on buying an oem throwout bearing, would a good aftermarket one be a better choice? I know tick has one for like 140, I think it's oe. Yay or nay? I have a t56 out of a 98 fbody.
GM Slave Cylinder & Throwout Bearing for 98-02 Camaro & Firebird (LS1) - Tick Performance, Inc.
But yeah I was talking about a tiny tilton clutch, I hadn't planned on driving the car on the street much haha, I guess if I had a normal clutch it would make it a car I could drive around a little bit easier. I guess an ls1 clutch could might handle the car fine for a little while since it's so light, didn't think about that.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

most of the guys that i know with ls motors hate the tiltion for moving around the pits. personally i wouldn't spend the money on one. in club racing you spend a lot of time waiting in traffic, going threw tech, rolling around the pits ect... the pro teams have mechanics that push the cars around. we don't have that luxury. that's why i went for the oem style clutch. it makes pulling the car into the garage much easier.


the OEM throw out/slave is a pile of junk. it gets hot and boils the fluid. i lose shifting at anything over 5500rpm. they say a good quality aftermarket piece is the only solution.

Scaxx

I'm glad you said something about the tilton then. Hmmm I'll definitely look into the throw out situation then, I knew people had problems with them but I didn't realize it was that bad. I know tilton makes an expensive throw out bearing haha, any idea if that money is worth it? Or any leads on good ones?

In other news my rear end is here! Went with the 3.42, pretty excited that I have most the drivetrain bought! Also I decided to give it a shot and throw on the spare 15s I had in the back yard. They fit as long as the tire weights are on the outside. Couldn't figure out why the wheels could go almost 360 and then stop, realized the stick on weights were in the way. But yeah, so that is an option when I'm learning how to drive the car.

Scaxx

Think I got an idea on my clutch set up, stock flywheel is about 28 lb (holy hell), stock clutch set up (pressure plate, disk, and flywheel) on an ls3 is about 53lb. I'd like the flywheel to be as light as possible but I also don't really wanna pay a **** ton for the entire clutch set up. Looks like competition clutches makes a 15 lb flywheel. I'd love something closer to 10lb flywheel but a 13 lb loss is alright too. They only make that flywheel for the ls1 and since the genIII flywheels are a little different than the genIV you can't mix and match a genIII flywheel with a gen IV clutch.

So I'm looking at picking up a stock ls6 clutch and combine it with the 15 lb flywheel. Should drop some weight but not be as gnarly as the tilton on the street. It was meant for a stock 400hp, should have a problem with an extra 50 or so horsepower in a car that weighs 1000lb less. Looking at about 600 for the whole set up, now I just need to figure out a throw out bearing solution.

OGRacing

iTrader: (1)

i went with the ACT flywheel, and stock clutch. the stock flywheel is mega huge.

Scaxx

That looks like a legit choice too, about a lb lighter than the competition clutch one. Plus it looks like the weight has been taken off of the outside where it's most important anyway. Probably end up going with that, its like $20 more haha

Scaxx

Midterms are finally done, got out in the garage to work on the go kart a tiny bit this weekend. Also did some valve covers for some cash yesterday and I was supposed to be doing some cold side piping on a dude's e36 but his slave blew up so I guess I'll be doing that another weekend. Anyway, the extra cash helps. Got one of the primaries tacked in place on the go kart so that's a big relief, now just onto the next one! I also cut a keyway into the axle so that I can actually mount my sprocket. I'm doing some basic **** on a dudes subaru this coming weekend so hopefully I'll get some time out in the garage to work on the miata a little afterwards, I'm hoping to get the rear end put in sometime soon.

There's also some sanitary stainless steel tubing on craigslist right now that I might pick up, dude has 10 foot sticks of 3" for $100, pretty decent price. I need to get the rear end in first though to see what my exhaust routing situation looks like, this is when I really wish I had a lift.

Anyway, pictures:

Scaxx

Tax return came in today. Ordered a new throttle body along with (hopefully) my last batch of sensors to get the ecu to work. Was hoping to get some work done on the miata today but my power went out. We did get the chassis for ours mars rover mostly assembled today, I'll post some carbon fiber sexiness tomorrow (we have carbon fiber wheels).

Scaxx

Started putting the rear end together today. Ate up a bit of time just cleaning up the garage but it was very needed, especially since I'm going to be under the car a lot more in the coming months. Got the diff in the rear subframe and prepped the surfaces for welding, I'll do that tomorrow. All my sensors and my new throttle body arrive in the mail next thursday. Also I promised some pictures of the rover and our new sexy carbon fiber wheels, it's obviously not all put together in these pictures but it should be 90% done by friday.




Wheels being made

Rover as of yesterday afternoon:

Wheels

New tires

Scaxx

I was planning on getting the rear end mounted today until I realized I needed to paint the welds after I finished them first. I measured the height with a caliper and then tac welded the mounts into place. After that I measured the the width that the tops of the mounts were apart and removed the diff. I put some all thread through and 4 nuts so that I could hold that exact width while I welded so that I didn't run into warpage. Now it's sitting in my basement waiting for the paint to dry.

Scaxx

The rear end is officially in. Got the diff mounted in the subframe today with all the bolts torqued down. Then I put the rear subframe back in and threw one side of suspension on. Seems that some of my alignment bolts mysteriously ran off but I was planning on getting all new ones anyway. Plus I have an entire extra set of subframes and suspension components to grab bolts off of (that's seriously come in handy) Still need to pop the old hub out and put the new ones in but I wanted to see what I was dealing with in the rear for bodywork. I knew it was gonna stick out a little but I didn't realize how much I guess.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Holy smokes. Why's it stick out so far?