When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yeah, that's a good question.... I was considering dropping that rack under the oil pan and proportionally moving the outboard points, but then the steering rack will hit everything I bottom out on. I'm coming to terms with moving it forward of the motor just under the crank pulley. I may end up doing something custom outboard to compensate for that.
Do you have an estimation on how much it'll actually move? Obviously you're balancing between having a well mounted rack versus keeping geometry happy. You could make a bracket that offsets the inner tie rod pick-up point closer to the stock location. Just do a quick analysis to make sure it wouldn't have deflection issues with being that cantilevered. But something similar to this: https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/...ing/RSPCR.html
It's probably a legitimate 4in forward of the original point. I think if I did brackets that long, I'd need some sort of bearing support to react the moment from the tie rod so I don't grenade the steering rack gears.
Got the engine mounts cleaned up and fully welded. Planning to install them tonight and start work on the trans cross member. Pro tip: welding over flux core mig tacks blows.
I definitely considered it when welding them up but they're 3/16 and have quite a bit of clamp area so I'll keep an eye on them are and add strength if necessary. I got those in place today and finished my fuel lines as well as mounted the coils off of the fuel rail.
They are, which you would think is an awful idea, but I tested this if you look at my original engine bay shot. That coil mount was cantilevered as well and once robust enough, never had an issue. If I run into an issue with these I'll make a bracket from the top mounts to the valve cover bolts. Maybe I'll just do that anyway....
Pretty much finished the trans mount today. I used a modified stock s2k mount with a GM bushing and mounted that to a custom cross member. All I need to add is some plate behind the bushing to keep the angle it's bent at to meet the floor and some sandwich plates inside the car.
I got the steering rack completely depowered to help add clearance to the front of the motor. I got it back in the car and quickly mocked up to see where it might go for the first time. like other s2k swaps it looks like it'll have to move forward exactly 4in.
So while I have been designing and working through the steering rack mount, I have also been trying to figure out my header situation. I had one that came with the motor that I cut up to see if I could get it to fit, but no luck. I tried a stock one from a friend and again, no luck. I didn't feel it was worth it to make my own header and then in a year make a turbo manifold so today I bought this.
11-09-2016, 11:30 AM
0
