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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1465690)
He's talking about an air oil separator drain not turbo.
Temp sensor will fit the subframe above the drain hole, just be sure there's no rib or interference behind where you drill for that oem baffle plate |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1460803)
The correct method for running a catch can is one hose from the driver's side port only. The passenger side (PCV) port should be plugged or capped entirely.
I have found that VVT motors are prone to liquid blowby from the driver's side port for some reason. The internal baffling is a little different on the VVT valve covers than it is on the 94-97 or 99-00s. It's manageable at lower power levels with a catch can (<300whp) but at high power levels or under high cornering forces, you need something more substantial. Not sure exactly why this is, but I've seen it on several different cars and engines, and it's a VVT-specific issue. I've successfully dealt with it by using a Radium AOS plumbed back into the oil pan.
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1460818)
Nope. Drain it below oil level or you've just created another large orifice for blowby to escape, and no oil will actually drain. The drain needs to be submerged in oil at all times (even under high cornering loads), or you need to run a check valve to prevent blowby flowing up the drain when the oil sloshes in the pan. The MSM does the former, I do the latter on my AOS installs.
The first it what sav suggested, then the second is his reply after i asked for verification on draining above oil level that was his response. I thought i was supposed to drain above oil level too. |
And this is the reply from Radium this morning,
"In the AOS applications we have worked with, we are always draining above the oil level and it has worked very well. No check valve because we want oil to drain freely into the engine and we also want the engine to be able to vent through that same line." So my AOS drain will be a direct mirror of where the turbo drain is and the temp sensor will go above the oil pan drain. |
if your engine has so much blow-by that oil cant get down to your oil pan, use both sides of the cam cover to the catch can with the third to the oil pan. beyond that its hose/fitting size or maybe your engine has too much blowby.
I prefer a "closed" system for smell in street cars. so I wouldn't run an open filter element on my catch can (its a scent thing for me, especially with a convertible car) recirc the filter spot on a catch can to the pre-turbo inlet pipe IMHO. when your getting high blow-by (under high engine load) your turbo will suck and burn all of those fumes. Look at turbo car dyno videos - specifically cars with atmospheric catch cans and you can see the catch can vent spewing a shit ton of vapors - its a visible amount. Not everyone will agree with me, but I will never run an atmospheric can on a street car like this one again. |
Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 1465934)
if your engine has so much blow-by that oil cant get down to your oil pan, use both sides of the cam cover to the catch can with the third to the oil pan. beyond that its hose/fitting size or maybe your engine has too much blowby.
I prefer a "closed" system for smell in street cars. so I wouldn't run an open filter element on my catch can (its a scent thing for me, especially with a convertible car) recirc the filter spot on a catch can to the pre-turbo inlet pipe IMHO. when your getting high blow-by (under high engine load) your turbo will suck and burn all of those fumes. Look at turbo car dyno videos - specifically cars with atmospheric catch cans and you can see the catch can vent spewing a shit ton of vapors - its a visible amount. Not everyone will agree with me, but I will never run an atmospheric can on a street car like this one again. In theory the motor should have zero blow by since its only half built. (Its for the one you are building the manifold for) Im just welding bungs into the pan so i dont have to revisit it in the future. This is the plumbing schematic for the catch can off their website. Obviously not a bp engine.z https://www.radiumauto.com/Assets/Su....png?ts=011931 |
Mounted the fan controller here.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...008f2264c4.jpg Then got the V8R Big brake kit with Dynapro calipers, prop valve and master installed. Running Hawk HP+ pads all around. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1e33c49ec9.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f7f471d22f.jpg |
Sorry for the shitty cell phone pics but got the master and prop valve plumed up. Ill probably end up making my own hard lines in the future. Im still not super happy how the lines turned out. Then lastly i got the fan controller temp sensor installed in the water neck. I used a M16x1.5 Parker hex plug then drilled about half way through it and tapped a #6-32 hole for the derale sensor. This one i am happy with how it turned out.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...063ad8068d.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5d772aeb81.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...33e5455906.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d51509b4d8.jpg |
Just a short update. Not much has happened the last couple weeks and not much will happen the next few months due to starting the fire academy this week. Sold the bride replica seats and the racequip harnesses today. Plan to send some money to another member on here for a pair of Schroth Profi II harnesses then order up a OMP TRS-E for the passenger seat in the next couple days as well as a BFW spoiler.
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an den? :P
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An den the manifold!!!
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Originally Posted by shlammed
(Post 1469425)
Und was dann? :P
Originally Posted by matrussell122
(Post 1469436)
Und dann der Edelstahl Turbokrümmer!!!
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Originally Posted by matrussell122
(Post 1466375)
Sorry for the shitty cell phone pics but got the master and prop valve plumed up. Ill probably end up making my own hard lines in the future. Im still not super happy how the lines turned out. Then lastly i got the fan controller temp sensor installed in the water neck. I used a M16x1.5 Parker hex plug then drilled about half way through it and tapped a #6-32 hole for the derale sensor. This one i am happy with how it turned out.
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Originally Posted by mreakus
(Post 1469469)
So you aren't planning on doing a reroute?
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1469462)
:)
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What are your guys general opinions of hardtop brackets. A guy down the street has a pair of garage star ones i can have if I want them. Right now i have zip ties holding the latches shut all the time dont judge.
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adjust your latches so they work?
I like running top-down though, so I would want it to be easy to remove. |
They are fully adjusted. Might try the locking caps from FM. Also whats everyone's opinion on an OMP TRS-E as a passenger seat to pair with an OMP WRC-R
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At some point over the winter I must have pulled the wires out of my IAT sensor and need to re wire it. In efforts to make it as clean as possible should I wire it directly to the megasquirt and bypass all oem wiring and use a deutsch connector, or Just push into the afm plug like before?
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Cut the afm connector and crimp it into that wiring
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Copy that. I will do that when I get home Thank you for the quick help
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Originally Posted by matrussell122
(Post 1472701)
At some point over the winter I must have pulled the wires out of my IAT sensor and need to re wire it. In efforts to make it as clean as possible should I wire it directly to the megasquirt and bypass all oem wiring and use a deutsch connector, or Just push into the afm plug like before?
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I know that pushing the wires in is not clean but it seems like a lot of people do it that way. I much prefer cutting and splicing over just about everything else.
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Quick update. Just got the brakes broke in on a quick test around town and it stops insanely well with the sport rears and v8r fronts. Pedal is firm with the wilwood master. And the best part.
Leafy talked me into a volvo 850 fan and I wired it to a derale pwm controller and it is awesome. Comes on nice a slow so no idle fluctuations and right now didn't get above 190f bUT thats on the road with 50f ambient so we will see how it does on the track but still a massive improvent over factory |
Does the controller allow for 100% activation when a signal is input from ecu or or a/C button or is it an isolated circuit only relying on the temp probe?
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1475751)
Does the controller allow for 100% activation when a signal is input from ecu or or a/C button or is it an isolated circuit only relying on the temp probe?
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Is the probe in stream or just nested in the radiator fins? I've wondered about these unite once upon a time, but never really moved on trying one out.
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1475789)
Is the probe in stream or just nested in the radiator fins? I've wondered about these unite once upon a time, but never really moved on trying one out.
Also I didn't use the probe just the sensor there should be posts earlier in the thread. I'll post more pics of all my wiring too when I get off work. |
Was as my parents house last weekend for mothers day and this garrett twin scroll showed up.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f9b1d0071e.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d7cd1c5495.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ae00d81336.jpg |
Whut
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Its for my dads 2000 F450 work truck. He has 370K and decided to do a full exhaust upgrade with big fast spooling turbo. Fast spooling in the diesel world anyway.
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gave me a heart attack.
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Has anyone had an issue with pad knock after switching to the wilwood BBK? Its most noticeable when parking when you go forward and backwards while braking a few times. Control arm bushings seem good but it is in the realm of possibility that they are moving.
Also unrelated but developed a nice oil leak on the front of the 1.6 motor yesterday. Looks to be leaking around the oil pump area but have yet to investigate since i got home so late last night. |
Never encountered pad knock on my dynapros. I did have clunks when the bushing sleeves where too long on early batch of SADFab stuff, but that was easily rectified...never happened again.
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Quick update:
Got the last of my parts/assembly lubes and stuff on order to assemble the block so that should happen soon. Starting to acquire all the parts to build the head early this winter. Hellafab is still working on the manifold I think there is still one person in line in front of me on that one. In the mean time starting to focus on supporting mods in the fuel system and new cooling bits. Found this fuel pump so i think ill give it a try. https://www.maperformance.com/produc...lph-9-401-1001 |
Get it done!
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Nice! Good luck. Hope you remembered 10,000 paper towels.
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Bought a few extra rolls earlier today. Here is tonight's progress. Tomorrow after kiddo goes to bed I'm hoping to have the pistons in and pan on.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...707dcdece9.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...426413551a.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c7fc9e2e7f.jpg |
Woo! That's exciting!
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Mostly together. Need to order some oem seals for the oil pimp pickup and a few other misc parts but other than that it's all together and I can seal the pan up when those parts arrive. Super stoked on the balancing. I has the crank and rods balanced to 1/10 gram then the pistons and rings came out to within .06 gram. I can live with that.
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...62c3bade17.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8cb64fce8b.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c557510e44.jpg |
Where does everyone buy their oem parts are you going to the local dealership or online?
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I just go to my local. Used to be Rosenthal, now priority mazda
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I've been buying from jimellis online. Their web page and service has treated me well so far. I've watched the local guy fail to find a part in the system that I know for a fact is still available, and he just did a google search for generic non-OEM parts, so I stopped going there.
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So my fan setup is kinda unique. I have the fan wired to a Derale PWM controller that is getting its source power off the original fan power wire just on the back side of the relay. The controller has its own temp sensor so i just want it to have keyed power all the time when the car is on which i thought i achieved by doing the below. The issue is that the fan isnt working. i checked the wiring and it led me right to the relay not getting power across. tested the fan with a jumper wire and it works fine. Are my settings below off base or do i just need to replace the relay to be happy again with a fan.
Edit: Added wiring diagram. In theory couldnt i disable the MS3 and ground the B/W wire for constant keyed power and have it work? https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...01ba095454.jpg https://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/.../93019g42L.gif |
You would ground the B/G or R/G wire for constant relay power.
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Can you explain the mechanics behind that? Im not disagreeing just want to understand better. So if i ground the B/G or R/G to the chassis the relay will give me constant keyed power? It seems like that would just give me power all the time?
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For one, B/W is the 12V source for the relay coil, so grounding that would just have the relay off all the time, because B/G or R/G is a ground signal from the ECU. If you grounded B/G or R/G, you now have 12V differential over the coil, thus the relay is active. B/W is 12V in start or run, therefore if B/G or R/G is always grounded, then the relay is active whenever B/W has 12V, which is only in run or start. When you turn the key to run, the relay has power, and then your temperature controller determines if the fan is actually on or not.
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That makes a lot more sense than what i was thinking. I thought the power source was going away from the ecm. Is that why there is an arrow pointing towards the ecm in the doodle?
Thanks for the help/fast response/explanation. |
Originally Posted by matrussell122
(Post 1487105)
Is that why there is an arrow pointing towards the ecm in the doodle?
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I tested the relay on my lunch break and i think it is bad. I tested by hooking the two coil pins to 12v+ and 12v- and got zero ohm reading between the two other pins. That would indicate it is bad correct.
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Originally Posted by matrussell122
(Post 1487133)
I tested the relay on my lunch break and i think it is bad. I tested by hooking the two coil pins to 12v+ and 12v- and got zero ohm reading between the two other pins. That would indicate it is bad correct.
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Was measuring in ohm not cotinuity. The reading does not change when powered or not. Also when the two coil pins are powered i do not have cotinuity. It all just clicked in my head. Picking up a new relay in an hour and will report back. I think that should work.
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Replaced relay with the horn relay (same relay) and ordered a spare. Fan works like a champ again.
Also to help cure my random bouncing idle i bumped my Idle valve 3pts for the CLI and adjusted my CLI settings to adjust more aggressively so we will see how that works on the way home. |
Well melted the replacement relay on the drive home. Used the one from the horn spot until the new one arrived. Not that it matters now since the plug is toast. The power supply to the relay is what started cooking everything. Think I'll have to run all new wire from the battery to a new external fan relay now.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7b521e6709.jpg |
After further investigation most all of the wiring is good. Just the wiring just outside the relay is a little screwed up. Going to replace it with an external fused relay rated for power draw up to 70a that I added a picture of below. After more research on my fan choice it seems people are getting up to 68a spikes on startup and having the fan settle down to 27ish amps. Since I am running the pwm controller i dont ever see the 68a draw on startup but am most likley hovering right around 30a continuously. Cant complain about the fan though since it is great and flows upwards of 4000 cfm.
https://www.waytekwire.com/images/items/46095FL.GIF |
2 Attachment(s)
Got my fan wiring all sorted out for the summer and should be getting some goodies for a parallel project to go with the new motor. Now that i have a bit of time to focus on what ive wanted to is the CLI sometimes doesnt catch. It happens more when its up to operating temp. The last minute or so of the attached log is where the problem is happening. There are times where it wont catch and drop to as low at 300 rpm or even die all together. Im sure its something obvious that im missing i just cant seem to find it.
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More goodies showed up today. As well as naca window ducts not pictured
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5e28985b12.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2a6d7e7d13.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f3862e0432.jpg |
Are the window ducts always open? I'm in dire need of ventilation so I'm thinking window vents... Any experience with them?
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The ones I got are the advance autosports naca duct window so always open. Just screwing with a duct on the freeway in my truck was significant air flow. I will install tomorrow on my lunch bu Im thinking they will be nice I know the same company offers ones that close or you can put a rubber cap over the naca ones
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Originally Posted by jpnMiata
(Post 1488299)
Are the window ducts always open? I'm in dire need of ventilation so I'm thinking window vents... Any experience with them?
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