Troy could fit, which is good since he doesn't have a car of his own to ride in, lol.

Seats are awesome in the car...sorta.

I love the way they feel but Im going to need to have custom brackets made. Im need to have the tunnel cut out and modified and ultra low brackets fabricated so the seats are practically on the floor. That seemed to be the most comfortable position for me. The PCI brackets are nice but they put this particular too high and forward for me. Reading more closely through older posts this seems to be the common way to install the ADV in a miata. No biggy...Ill just add it to the fabrication list when I drop the car off for the DP and exhaust.

Made some progress today...got these put in

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fd60be3de3.jpg

Happy with the look. Problem is the fucking hood still won't close over my waste gate actuator. I switched back to the original also because the dual port actuator is larger and neither quite fit. We fucked about with the vents and contemplated even cutting one out but part of the actuator still hits the goddamn hood. Ive sent an email off to blackbird to see about getting a set of his lowering engine mounts because the way it looks unless I want a weird fucking hole in the hood the whole engine needs to sit lower for this to have a prayer of clearing. Guess ill see. Tomorrow going to see about fucking about with the seating mounting to get my seats to fit comfortably in the car. Right now its just a battle of inches trying to get things to fit. Getting closer but just some annoying fucking shit at the moment.

There's plenty of room if the exhaust manifold was designed better for the EFR to fit beneath the hood. It's a real shame you spend so much money on a bunch of that doesn't fit. I'd be really pissed if it was my money. So the downpipe was $675 and doesn't fit and now we find out the exhaust manifold puts the turbo parts through the hood no matter which actuator you use.

Sorry to hear about the trouble. You will persevere, I know it.

Note to self...dont buy expensive kit that doesn't account for variances in cars...spend money on custom fabrication that guarantees proper fitment.

https://www.maperformance.com/produc...it-59007119007

Going to try this bracket first and see if this puts it low enough...not sure how this will work with a turbosmart dual port but it lowers the waste gate actuator and moves it back which is a higher portion of the hood. Normally you buy a short EFR actuator for this so I may have to modify mine by shortening the rod. Hopefully this works and I can move on.

I might grab that bracket just to have the actuator sit closer to the turbo. Looks funky sitting so high, but maybe temp issues having it closer to the turbo?

On the NA, you should be able to notch the hood structure to clear the standard actuator, or use the short actuator with no modifications to the hood at all. If you have Singular vents installed in the standard NA location, you can just un-bend the 2nd louver down from the top on the left side and it will clear the actuator without any issue. The louvers remove the part of the hood bracing that the actuator contacts.

Replying separately to this because it deserves a separate reply.

We can't go lower with the turbo and retain P/S compatibility.

The downpipe issues may be a result of the BMW trans throwing off the clocking rotation off the turbo, it's impossible to say. Tracy and I discussed it on the phone weeks ago, I sent him a replacement inlet flange free of charge so he can have his DP tweaked to match his specific setup. If he's had further trouble with it, this is the first I'm hearing of it.

The short actuator clears the NA hood with zero modifications, so no, the manifold doesn't "put the turbo parts through the hood no matter which actuator you use." That's simply a false statement.

As with all of my customers, I'm willing to provide whatever support is necessary when issues crop up. I've talked with Tracy at length about his specific application and tried to give ideas and direction on how to make everything work, given the constraints of his specific combo of parts. I continue to be willing to email or talk to him about this and any future issues he may come across.

Without the brace on the underside of the hood the actuator is hard up against the hood interior and bending it upward. The only way to have any clearance between the actuator and the hood is to cut a little hole in the hood and have the actuator stick out in the open air. This applies to both the standard actuator and the dual-port actuator. Bracing is gone. The hood louvers actually create more of a problem when present because the perimeter of the louvers sticks down further than the sheet metal of the hood itself which is already touching.

No offense, but have Tracy get in touch with me. I reached out this morning via email. I'd rather not play telephone game with a third party.

Prolly a stupid idea but would shimming up the hood at the firewall via the hinges help with the clearance? It might be a CR fan boy mod but it would definitely be a more cost effective route

No. There are several NAs running with standard actuator setups that fit under the hood skin. I'm working with Tracy to figure out why his car isn't doing what we expect it to.

Ppf at too severe of an angle?

I tried reading through your build but I probably missed it. What engine mounts are you running?

Don't have a PPF with the BMW transmission. Also running the 949 racing engine mounts.