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This is now a thread about removing rear dust shields.
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Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 1430384)
This is now a thread about removing rear dust shields.
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Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 1430384)
This is now a thread about removing rear dust shields.
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Instructions unclear. Penis stuck in dust shield.
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:rofl:
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Originally Posted by Scaxx
(Post 1430487)
Instructions unclear. Penis stuck in dust shield.
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Small update this week. Been working like a dog. Torqued the front suspension, mounted the front sway bar, and mounted the brakes.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4c2d0977c5.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...63220e5eff.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...efc9f4f33c.jpg Also got the new brake master cylinder mounted with the strut tower brace. Ran the brakes lines high to keep them away from the exhaust. Not sure how much it matters but whatever I did it. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e19926d935.jpg Also the engine shop does this neat thing online where they take pictures of your engine progress and keep you updated. Probably smart...saves them a shitload of phone calls. So far looking good. Projected finish date is 8/29 on the motor. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...304822f923.png https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...01f9bbb1bb.jpg Otherwise progress is slow. Seems like everything is a month away. I've ordered my turbo kit, ECU, and fuel setup as well as the transmission swap. Rear subframe is getting powder coated then in approximately a week when the custom axles are done I can mount the rear back on the car. Wont be done by the end of August like I hoped but hopefully September is the month. Still little odds and ends to clean up. Trying to figure out with COP setup to go with...probably going to do LS coils but need to find a mounting solution that I like. Any thoughts on an Enthuza 3" exhaust for my build? My friend previously had a 2.5 and it had a nice sound. |
That looks so good.
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So my experience with mounting completely new brake hardware to the car (new MC, new lines, added abs)
a) the motive power bleeder is still boss. Works good. You want one b) you will still need to have a compatriot to do some pumping of the new MC. I did not bench bleed mine. Caveat: I foolishly thought that the power bleeder would be my end all, and initially bled the whole system using only it. That doesn't work. Bench bleeding of a new MC is not required, but having someone pump the brakes and plumb that system is. If I were to do it over with the equipment I have, I would first bleed the system as I did with the motive power bleeder. I would then, using one of the short front lines, have someone help me and do the pump-the-brakes-bleed. I would then do a complete re-bleed of the system starting at the rear with the motive power bleeder. This should yield you firm ass brakes. If you have ABS, during the last stage, you should cycle the ABS pump for each segment while bleeding. Rear, front left, front right. Edit: the sound of the ABS pump changes once fluid is in it, you will hear this, and it will make sense. It cycles three times, rear, front left, front right. Once all three cycles sound like they have fluid in them you're good. |
I love car porn, this looks great.
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More updates from the machine shop. Short block is complete. Now awaiting the head.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e3a34a7930.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3e5c38c980.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5164194165.jpg |
Originally Posted by Mobius
(Post 1432159)
So my experience with mounting completely new brake hardware to the car (new MC, new lines, added abs)
a) the motive power bleeder is still boss. Works good. You want one b) you will still need to have a compatriot to do some pumping of the new MC. I did not bench bleed mine. Caveat: I foolishly thought that the power bleeder would be my end all, and initially bled the whole system using only it. That doesn't work. Bench bleeding of a new MC is not required, but having someone pump the brakes and plumb that system is. If I were to do it over with the equipment I have, I would first bleed the system as I did with the motive power bleeder. I would then, using one of the short front lines, have someone help me and do the pump-the-brakes-bleed. I would then do a complete re-bleed of the system starting at the rear with the motive power bleeder. This should yield you firm ass brakes. If you have ABS, during the last stage, you should cycle the ABS pump for each segment while bleeding. Rear, front left, front right. Edit: the sound of the ABS pump changes once fluid is in it, you will hear this, and it will make sense. It cycles three times, rear, front left, front right. Once all three cycles sound like they have fluid in them you're good. |
That sure is pretty. Fun times ahead.
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Was expecting billet main caps, a little bit disappointed
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Was the head media blasted? (With what?)
those 8.6:1? |
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1432733)
Was the head media blasted? (With what?)
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
(Post 1432733)
Was the head media blasted? (With what?)
those 8.6:1? |
Does the subframe give you more room to work around? The factory set up can be a pain to work around.
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Originally Posted by miataman04
(Post 1432915)
Does the subframe give you more room to work around? The factory set up can be a pain to work around.
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Went ahead and paid to become a supporter of the site. Pretty much all my thoughts, ideas, and plans have come from reading other's threads here so I figured I should give back for those helping me along here. My stupid ass wouldn't be this far without everyone's input.
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