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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1445344)
Have you ever taken apart a K engine? A BP is like a lego set compared to it.
And What is there so much more complicated in a basic turbo BP? 2 oil lines and 2 water lines? everything else unbolts with the quickness. I mean, there are legitimately very few modern cars out there more simple than a Miata, and very few modern engines simpler than a BP. I can't even think of many cars easier to wrench on.... I mean I get it, it's the feeling of simplicity and reliability that is the appeal here. And in some ways it is simpler, and in most ways its more reliable, at least on track anyways, I just think most people get carried away lusting after something they've never really even owned. "K SWAP BRO, SO EASY YOU CAN DO IT ON YOUR LUNCH BREAK".........."brb, doing kswap"........."ok done, ready for the track"............ Now I will admit, I also have not owned a K Miata, but I have owned 4 RSX's many years ago, a TSX a few years ago, and various other K cars, so at least I speak from some sort of personal exp. In the future, after OP finishes his epic BP build and enjoys it, I would LOVE to see him build a boosted K :D http://images.sportcompactcarweb.com...ata+engine.jpg Now compare it to this.. http://www.engineswapdepot.com/wp-co...4-1024x678.jpg I know which I'd rather work on...neither are really that hard to do That said, I don't want to intrude on OP's thread. I think his turbo build is awesome. I had issues with my turbo setup on my Miata on track and admit to having a bad taste in my mouth about going down that path again with all the incentives out there in the Kswap if your end goal is ~250whp. |
Interesting predicament
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5f894f64f0.jpg The ID 1050x injectors i received do not fit correctly. The electrical plug interferes with the exhaust manifold and causes them to tilt off perpendicular. As you can see they tilt up causing them to be off center and not line up with the fuel rail. I did the google search and someone on miata.net noted this and stated the upper and lower adapters are not correct. I have contacted ID to see if they can send me the correct adapter. Comparing them to the stock injector its clear that the electrical adapter is too low on the injector causing it to interfere. Ill keep you posted as to their response but the fuel rail install was halted. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...417ede2936.jpg With the intake manifold off you get the idea. The electrical component clearly interferes when the injector is in the correct orientation and angle. Guess we shall see. |
you can't rotate them to point to the side?
the 1050's are definitely smaller/shorter body than the previous 1000's, but I don't think it's a deal breaker. but I've only installed the new 1050's onto other cars so far *edit: or maybe they sent you wrong size, even shorter ones. |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1445502)
you can't rotate them to point to the side?
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7d09cd1c51.jpg I borrowed this picture of the 1000cc These are mine https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...7c8679bc43.jpg You can see how the electrical adapter is lower |
EFR + EBC = as much like a K as you want it to be, minus a bit of top end rpm. With more mid-range. I have limited my car to 200 ft/lbs, and it was phenomenal at Laguna this past weekend.
Just wait on the manifold. Build the car. You are almost there. You don't like it after a month or two, sell the whole shebang and go K. |
They are telling me they should fit if pointed 90 degrees towards the firewall...I've tried without the manifold on and the manifold wouldn't go on so I guess I'll try it with the manifold on to start...seems like if it does work the fit is going to be super tight.
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So with the intake manifold in place I was able to get the injectors installed. Here's the picture of the exact angle they have to be to work...apparently ID is aware of this issue but they just don't care. So this is the solution.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d6b00d8a39.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...868c1fb14d.jpg Managed to get the rear housing for the QMAX reroute installed. Nothing to complicated here...even for me. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...50a5dbc489.jpg Also got the Skunk2 installed. The studs were still in the intake manifold so rather than use all 4 bolts they provided I just used the studs that were there. Should work fine. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9b7a77a62e.jpg Going to work on getting the coils made tomorrow and get them installed as well. I received the email about my transmission kit shipping so hopefully sometime next week I have that and can get it on the car and get the engine back in. |
I wouldn't worry about the injectors too much. I have run my Flow Force's several different directions, and while I'm happy that the connectors all point down now, I am not convinced that it actually make any difference in real life performance. I do think the connectors pointing down is the correct orientation for my dual cone injectors, but I was able to run just as fast with them pointed back, as well as about 10 o'clock.
Did you get them from 949? I wonder if there are medium length ones that would work with flow force adapters. |
Originally Posted by sonofthehill
(Post 1445703)
I wouldn't worry about the injectors too much. I have run my Flow Force's several different directions, and while I'm happy that the connectors all point down now, I am not convinced that it actually make any difference in real life performance. I do think the connectors pointing down is the correct orientation for my dual cone injectors, but I was able to run just as fast with them pointed back, as well as about 10 o'clock.
Did you get them from 949? I wonder if there are medium length ones that would work with flow force adapters. |
They will work fine.
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Originally Posted by TonyMontana
(Post 1445705)
Yes 949. I called them and they noted this is their solution. Whatever. They are in.
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Im looking at doing something different with the dash gauges. I've been doing the google search but haven't found a super clear answer to a question. Is there a semi easy way to change the fuel gauge to something other than stock? Im thinking of changing all the gauges to a more focused track setup but still want a fuel gauge.
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Went to do the coils today but had a hiccup.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...88456705f4.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...56e1d68ff5.jpg Contacted Sadfab and he noted they had this issue on 99-00 heads which mine certainly isn't so not sure if the valve cover is different or what. No worries -- he's taking care of it and sending me a new one that fits correctly. Its things like this though that make me tell others to start with an unmolested example so you don't have issues like this. Most certainly not anyones fault just shit that happens I guess. To keep making progress got the fuel line mounted under the car https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...227659e50e.jpg Mounted up my interfooler https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1bae97e95d.jpg Secured the EGR delete plates and plugged off the fuel rail where the stock FPR would go. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...4d4d80bbe3.jpg Got the sandwich plate for the oil cooler mounted as well as my engine mounts. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f0c3886571.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...44b6435ba5.jpg Running without the support bracket on the intake manifold https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...942f13812a.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...69334ef264.jpg Sixshooter helped me with a giant saw to modify the A/C bracket. I cut out part of the lower bracket for increased clearance for the turbo oil drain. Makes more room and doesn't alter structural integrity. Im happy with it. Wish I could say this was a first choice preference but reality was the drain was basically hitting the bracket so modifications were a must lol. Hooray for fuck ups. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6c274a2a8c.jpg Im pretty sure I'm going to order an IQ3 for my dash solution. With the transmission swap speedo issues and the plethora of sensors I think this will keep it the cleanest. I just don't want an A-pilar and center console full of gauges so I think this will be best for me. I will likely steal aidans look with the IQ3 in the center and the AFR and Boost Gauge on either side. Everything else it appears comes from the ECU to the IQ3. For the speedometer I need to figure out how to get a VSS signal to the ECU or just use the GPS speedometer. Not sure what to do on this...what I know is purely from reading so Ill have to dive further into this. Also need to figure out the fuel level gauge since I want this to work as well. Will likely order the IQ3, my seats, and harnesses this week. |
I think the NB style output from the BMW transmission will work with some of the fancy dash displays, but don't know anything about the capabilities of the one you are considering.
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 1445841)
I think the NB style output from the BMW transmission will work with some of the fancy dash displays, but don't know anything about the capabilities of the one you are considering.
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My what pretty nuts you have. Where did you get such pretty nuts?
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Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 1445900)
My what pretty nuts you have. Where did you get such pretty nuts?
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Originally Posted by TonyMontana
(Post 1445842)
If this transmission has a speed sensor on it I surely don't know where it is. I thought BMWs got their speedo signal from another source. I may have to swap out the right front knuckle for an ABS knuckle. Then wire an ABS sensor to a Dakota Digital box and send that VSS signal to the ECU. Then I can send that to any variety of speedos.
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Originally Posted by Keith1054
(Post 1445915)
Most BMW's get the VSS signal from the rear diff (newer models with active ABS sensors and CANbus use the drivers side rear ABS knuckle). Only electrcal hook up to your trans will be the reverse lights. It's a simple two pin connection.
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Originally Posted by TonyMontana
(Post 1446015)
I ordered an ABS hub off of EBAY and plan to run the ABS signal to the ECU through a Dakota Digital box. That should do the trick.
--Ian |
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