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Small update this week. Been working like a dog. Torqued the front suspension, mounted the front sway bar, and mounted the brakes.
Also got the new brake master cylinder mounted with the strut tower brace. Ran the brakes lines high to keep them away from the exhaust. Not sure how much it matters but whatever I did it.
Also the engine shop does this neat thing online where they take pictures of your engine progress and keep you updated. Probably smart...saves them a shitload of phone calls. So far looking good. Projected finish date is 8/29 on the motor.
Otherwise progress is slow. Seems like everything is a month away. I've ordered my turbo kit, ECU, and fuel setup as well as the transmission swap. Rear subframe is getting powder coated then in approximately a week when the custom axles are done I can mount the rear back on the car. Wont be done by the end of August like I hoped but hopefully September is the month. Still little odds and ends to clean up. Trying to figure out with COP setup to go with...probably going to do LS coils but need to find a mounting solution that I like. Any thoughts on an Enthuza 3" exhaust for my build? My friend previously had a 2.5 and it had a nice sound.
So my experience with mounting completely new brake hardware to the car (new MC, new lines, added abs)
a) the motive power bleeder is still boss. Works good. You want one
b) you will still need to have a compatriot to do some pumping of the new MC. I did not bench bleed mine. Caveat: I foolishly thought that the power bleeder would be my end all, and initially bled the whole system using only it. That doesn't work. Bench bleeding of a new MC is not required, but having someone pump the brakes and plumb that system is.
If I were to do it over with the equipment I have, I would first bleed the system as I did with the motive power bleeder. I would then, using one of the short front lines, have someone help me and do the pump-the-brakes-bleed. I would then do a complete re-bleed of the system starting at the rear with the motive power bleeder.
This should yield you firm *** brakes.
If you have ABS, during the last stage, you should cycle the ABS pump for each segment while bleeding. Rear, front left, front right.
Edit: the sound of the ABS pump changes once fluid is in it, you will hear this, and it will make sense. It cycles three times, rear, front left, front right. Once all three cycles sound like they have fluid in them you're good.
So my experience with mounting completely new brake hardware to the car (new MC, new lines, added abs)
a) the motive power bleeder is still boss. Works good. You want one
b) you will still need to have a compatriot to do some pumping of the new MC. I did not bench bleed mine. Caveat: I foolishly thought that the power bleeder would be my end all, and initially bled the whole system using only it. That doesn't work. Bench bleeding of a new MC is not required, but having someone pump the brakes and plumb that system is.
If I were to do it over with the equipment I have, I would first bleed the system as I did with the motive power bleeder. I would then, using one of the short front lines, have someone help me and do the pump-the-brakes-bleed. I would then do a complete re-bleed of the system starting at the rear with the motive power bleeder.
This should yield you firm *** brakes.
If you have ABS, during the last stage, you should cycle the ABS pump for each segment while bleeding. Rear, front left, front right.
Edit: the sound of the ABS pump changes once fluid is in it, you will hear this, and it will make sense. It cycles three times, rear, front left, front right. Once all three cycles sound like they have fluid in them you're good.
Went ahead and paid to become a supporter of the site. Pretty much all my thoughts, ideas, and plans have come from reading other's threads here so I figured I should give back for those helping me along here. My stupid *** wouldn't be this far without everyone's input.
08-06-2017, 09:11 PM
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