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Theoretically the seat would only be on the street to and from the track, and I'd swap in the stock seat for the rest of the time. Though until I am trailering to the track that is something to keep in mind.
Okay, started fiddling with the oil temp calibration in an attempt to get more accurate logs. Here is where I am starting from:
It is currently linear, which means that values between the min/max are likely high based on my understanding of the shape of the curve. Ambient is 65, ECU is reporting 82.5.
Here is the table for the AEM sensor that Curly used:
I tried making the curve using the Calibrate Thermistor tool in TS. While I may not have chosen ideal values for a permanent solution, I wanted one of them to be reasonably close to the ambient temp to see if things were working. Here is what I got:
So now it is reading low. For giggles I also selected the typical GM sensor curve. It reported temp of -11.8.
I'm going to be right up front: electricity and circuits are not an area of expertise for me. Any assistance it getting this figured out would be greatly appreciated.
Could be, I remember you and Josh posting about it earlier and that it might be a 2.49k pull up. If that's the case, I'm assuming the AEM table values are no good since they are for a 2.2k pull up correct?
Sorry for the noobish question, like I said electricity isn't my forte.
See I messed with this for a while, trying to at least have a 3 point curve like you're trying. Not having the actual pull up resistor value didn't help, but honestly I don't think those values AEM gives you have anything to do with reality. Unfortunately it's just one of the first 1/8 NPT sensors that pops up with a quick google search.
I did have wires running to a ground and the sensor wire. I would check the resistance between the two to get the temperature using the AEM table. Then I'd check voltage with the key on, which I think works cause you're back probing the resistor. This might electrically not work, but I was getting 0-5v values that seemed to make sense. Any order of plugging these in was just not giving a decent reading. If you buy an AEM oil temperature gauge, I bet it'll read perfect. I know this, because I'm currently using one on another white Miata. That's smoking. And awaiting a TSE block. Small world.
Oh! And I remember now that the resistance values I was getting for temperatures weren't making sense. Like on a 60 degree morning I was reading 45-50 degrees.
Step 1 is getting the proper resistance value from Rev.
Also I didn't spend a lot of time on Excel, but I would graph the AEM values, and find three that are both in your normal operating range (you're not going to see -40), and your middle temperature should be the "lowest" in the dip of the curve, so it's truly the best fit 3 point line to your curve.
So, long time no update. Not that there has been much to talk about, it's been cold!
Anyway, got some new kicks for the upcoming track season:
Goodbye poverty cast wheels, hello flow-formed goodness. Color is Beryllium, 8 inches wide. Fresh 205 Maxxis VR-1s too. Actually drove on them today for the first time, and it turns out I'll need to roll my fenders. Not a big deal, as long as I can either find the time and the tools and/or someone to do it. Was going to happen eventually.
Haven't taken the time to mess with the oil temp sensor stuff yet, been working hard to wrap up the CPA exam prep and now I'm neck-deep in tax season. However, Curly may be getting another shot at it soon. Should have some exciting news in the next few days. I mean, other than learning the gender of my third kid (Tuesday), or my score on the last CPA exam (Thursday).
So, long time no update. Not that there has been much to talk about, it's been cold!
Anyway, got some new kicks for the upcoming track season:
Goodbye poverty cast wheels, hello flow-formed goodness. Color is Beryllium, 8 inches wide. Fresh 205 Maxxis VR-1s too. Actually drove on them today for the first time, and it turns out I'll need to roll my fenders. Not a big deal, as long as I can either find the time and the tools and/or someone to do it. Was going to happen eventually.
Haven't taken the time to mess with the oil temp sensor stuff yet, been working hard to wrap up the CPA exam prep and now I'm neck-deep in tax season. However, Curly may be getting another shot at it soon. Should have some exciting news in the next few days. I mean, other than learning the gender of my third kid (Tuesday), or my score on the last CPA exam (Thursday).
Congrats on passing the first part! I forgot to check back but hopefully you are squeezing all of the CPA exams in within the 18 month deadline. If you are neck deep in tax season it sounds like you do some individual/business work like me. Only a month left before you can take a breath!
Updates are awesome and congratulations on the great news!
Congrats on passing the first part! I forgot to check back but hopefully you are squeezing all of the CPA exams in within the 18 month deadline. If you are neck deep in tax season it sounds like you do some individual/business work like me. Only a month left before you can take a breath!
Updates are awesome and congratulations on the great news!
Thanks! Just got my my score for Audit yesterday. 73. SO CLOSE!
Good news is that I have until November to pass it. BEC, FAR, and REG are all behind me now. Haven't scheduled the retake yet.
Also, found out Tuesday that we're having another girl. Will have three girls under three for a couple weeks at least. Heaven help me.
But more car-related: TSE EFR KIT IS HAPPENING!!!! ooja3k's system will live on in my NA. Manifold, turbo, coils, intercooler, injectors, downpipe, the works. Still not "officially official", as he's still working on the shipping cost side of things, but I'm starting to put my list of things to do together.
1). I'll want a bigger fuel pump. From what I'm reading the DW200 will be just fine for my needs (pump-gas only, max around 300hp), but tell me if I'm wrong.
2). My undertray is a little beat up and could use replacing. Stick with OEM, or is there a compelling reason to go with something like the LRB?
3). Hood louvers probably a good idea?
4). Brakes. Debating whether I should spring for a BBK right now, or stick with OEM + Brake ducts. If going with a BBK I'm leaning towards the TSE Dynapros unless someone can convince me that the V8R kits are better. For reference my track tune plan is for as little power as possible, probably around 210 rwhp.
5). Exhaust. I could also get ooja3k's exhaust, but it lacks a catalytic converter, uses the smaller 18" magnaflow, and shipping would not be fun or cheap. I've got a quote from a local shop, and have emailed Abe of ARTech, but even with shipping I'm guessing reusing his exhaust would save time and money. The real question is whether it would be wife-approved. Currently have RB header, high-flow cat, and Roadstersport3 exhaust (with no baffles) and it is on the loud side especially with the top up.
EDIT:
6). Valve springs! Almost forgot. Head currently has Supertech Light Doubles. Do I need to swap in Heavy Doubles?
EDIT 2:
7). PCV system. Right now I have OEM on the passenger side, and just a breather filter on the driver side. This will probably need to be addressed for turbo track use, correct?
1. DW200 will be more than enough.
2. New undertrays are ~$60, and are quick and easy to modify to fit your specific under tray. If you go with Aluminum, it will hold it's shape better after chopping, but have a higher initial cost and longer modification time.
3. Some type of venting is always helpful with hot cars in hot environments, and if you plan on tracking it's nearly required.
4. With proper pad choice, stock brakes will be fine for you. If you start to push the car on the street or track, you will notice some fade unless you're on race brakes. If you're worried about this, age of caliper, pad taper, etc, I highly recommend the 11" StopTech kit. See your PM.
5. There's a local fabricator, KO Racing (also where we dyno tune), that can make a fabulous TIG welded SS exhaust if you're interested (or MIG mild if you wanna save money), let us know if you'd like a quote from him too.
6. Unless you plan on high RPMs, no need for heavy doubles.
7. Martin can get you a good deal on Radium products, including their single or dual catch can kit. (might go custom mounting as their mount puts it very close to turbo)
1. DW200 will be more than enough.
2. New undertrays are ~$60, and are quick and easy to modify to fit your specific under tray. If you go with Aluminum, it will hold it's shape better after chopping, but have a higher initial cost and longer modification time.
3. Some type of venting is always helpful with hot cars in hot environments, and if you plan on tracking it's nearly required.
4. With proper pad choice, stock brakes will be fine for you. If you start to push the car on the street or track, you will notice some fade unless you're on race brakes. If you're worried about this, age of caliper, pad taper, etc, I highly recommend the 11" StopTech kit. See your PM.
5. There's a local fabricator, KO Racing (also where we dyno tune), that can make a fabulous TIG welded SS exhaust if you're interested (or MIG mild if you wanna save money), let us know if you'd like a quote from him too.
6. Unless you plan on high RPMs, no need for heavy doubles.
7. Martin can get you a good deal on Radium products, including their single or dual catch can kit. (might go custom mounting as their mount puts it very close to turbo)
Your injectors are 1000+?
Thanks for the reply Josh. Pretty much what I thought, but always good to get confirmation from others (particularly those who know what they are talking about!). Yes, injectors are ID1050X.
Don't see a PM, but kinda discounted the 11" StopTech kit because: 1). More bigger is more better, 2). Rotors are more expensive than the 11.75" rotors, 3). The kit itself is much more expensive initially. My current calipers are original from what I know, 22 years old and 150k miles. When (not if) they die I'll be doing bigger brakes, but nice to know that I can get by for now.
While a pretty exhaust would be nice, I'm aiming to be more cost effective this time around. After the excesses of my last major project I need to be a little more careful lest I incur the wrath of my wife. Unless Kris could do a SS exhaust for less than you can I think I'll just stick with you. I do think I'll want SS for durability though.
Not going to rev crazy, so good to know my valve springs should keep up. What prompted the question is actually ooja3k's engine failure appears to have been caused by a dropped valve. He had the VSS(?) springs, which had a similar seat pressure to the light doubles, and I didn't want to run into the same problem.
I'll keep you guys in mind for the catch can. All the different theories and practices make my head spin, and the "Definitive Catch-Can Thread" is anything but. I'm leaning towards Andrew's suggestion since he probably has as much turbo Miata track experience as anyone, but I don't relish the idea of drilling yet another hole in my oil pan. And some people say that you don't want to run it back anyway, because it is nasty and acidic and will ruin your bearings, etc.
Based off of Josh's recommendation I started looking closer at the StopTech BBK, and wouldn't you know it! Somebody was selling a BNIB kit on CR.net! Ended up getting this shipped to my house, with pads, for less than the TSE Dynapro kit retails for. DEALS!
Bigger than I pictured in my head.
SO MUCH MEAT!
My youngest daughter is less enthusiastic.
Turbo components should be arriving today as well. THIS IS WAY BETTER THAN CHRISTMAS!
Skip the LRB undertray. I had fitment issues on 2 cars. Stick to OEM.
That seems to be the universal recommendation. Thanks!
In other news: SO MANY THINGS!
OMG IT SPINS!
Ceramic coated cast iron goodness.
I
Don't see a lick of damage.
Basically everything I need to put my built motor to real use. Just need to get a fuel pump, a bracket for the coils (and maybe wires because of the VVT cover), and have a downpipe-back exhaust fabricated. Unfortunately most of the turbo-specific pieces will have to wait until July, but injectors, coils, pump, and brakes will be going on right after we move next month.
EDIT: A couple of the studs feel a little loose. They don't spin freely, but I should probably re-Resbond them, right?
Also, should I go ahead an order new Stage 8 locking hardware, or should I be good to reuse what's here?
So I've been trying to educate myself on wastegate related stuff, and I think I have it figured out but I'd like some confirmation. Right now I have the Medium wastegate can, which according to the TSE website has a boost range of 11-19 PSI. That means that 11 PSI is the MINIMUM boost I can run with that canister, correct? 19 PSI would then be the maximum unless I get boost creep (which isn't a big problem on EFRs as I understand it).
However, if I go with the Turbosmart dual-port I could remove the middle spring and have a range of 7-21 PSI. Other than cost, is there any reason I wouldn't want to get the Turbosmart can? Am I understanding this correctly?
So I've been trying to educate myself on wastegate related stuff, and I think I have it figured out but I'd like some confirmation. Right now I have the Medium wastegate can, which according to the TSE website has a boost range of 11-19 PSI. That means that 11 PSI is the MINIMUM boost I can run with that canister, correct? 19 PSI would then be the maximum unless I get boost creep (which isn't a big problem on EFRs as I understand it).
However, if I go with the Turbosmart dual-port I could remove the middle spring and have a range of 7-21 PSI. Other than cost, is there any reason I wouldn't want to get the Turbosmart can? Am I understanding this correctly?
Self-quoting, because I would still like to get some feedback on this. While I could just email Andrew, I'd feel a little guilty bugging him since I didn't by the turbo components directly from him.
09-26-2017, 10:06 PM
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SO CLOSE!
ooja3k's system will live on in my NA. Manifold, turbo, coils, intercooler, injectors, downpipe, the works. Still not "officially official", as he's still working on the shipping cost side of things, but I'm starting to put my list of things to do together.
