msmola2002

first update in a couple of weeks.

last weekend got my 7.5G upgrade and was kinda loagie and achieved little. Yesterday got a bit done

So where was I?

My sheet ally from blue HD came in. Paper thin and looking banged up.


I already have a major gripe with lowes to do with my kitchen so this will go back. 24ga POS

So I went to the walmarts

15 bucks for a heavy duty cookie tray. Half the price of the banged up sheet

I decided i would commit to one of mat's rad support bars so popped the front covers off







Some little bastard was living in my chassis rail. Was. I can only assume the nesting was stolen from behind the dash.

Did some CAD



Transferred markings to metal


last week's snacc of choice - genuine canuckistani all dressed ruffles.

Wavy line on right on cardboard is carpet line and where it will need to tuck

msmola2002

So worked saturday, had half a day into last night for fuckery


Before I went out to the barn i righted the wrongs of the turbone coroporation while fuxxing with my wastegate bracket

I cut a notch out of the bracket so the hole line up and the wastegate actuator is in a straight line. Cool

Then I got the ole angle grinder out and cut the baking tray

.trimmed it a little then started drilling and riveting. Starting at the door side I guesstimated where to put my channel, riveted it on then drilled some 1/4" holes for my stainless BHCSs.



Yeah, that smear in teh middle is my blood.



Nutserts.

I actually had to shave the nutsert on the top left near the door. It was too long and hit the tank, so needed it to sit deeper before it locked itself in. So took ~3mm off the back.


Rear view, more blood. Braced top and bottom as quite floppy. I riveted it all together then realised it sounded like a snare drum when you tapped it. So drilled all the rivets out, put a bead of permatex right stuff (as it was open) and reriveted. Much quieter.

Inner side is angled and inset so carpet can tuck behind and just so the top and bottom were not in a dip where I wanted to set the nutserts.

After that gave it a clean and a quick zip with some paint. Was drying and had a little time before bed



It begins



And done. No going back,




And identifying what I need to hit with BFH before I get the mani and trubo on,

I am off work 23rd to 2nd, so hopefully get a pile of work done.

boileralum

iTrader: (8)

Already planning to hit your finger w the hammer? What a masochist!

msmola2002

I am a trendsetter and always looking for new places to bleed onto while working on this POS.

msmola2002

Gon be toasty in the ole barn.

msmola2002

Heater showed up yesterday with a dent in the tank and the paint flaked off where the dent was.



Returned today to TSC. that model number comes up today as "not found" so just ordered the same one from amazon, for 10 bucks more. I fucken despise giving bezos money but here we are. Will have it in about 2 weeks. Lame.

also, this thing showed up

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

You can also point it at the car and warm up the chassis, keeps your wee little pingies warm while working

msmola2002

Ok. So have done a little, but not much, what with christmas and various jobs around the house. Working around renovation of the last room in the house

So


ordered a new grommet so would be easier to feed wires in for the ECU. this is the 3/4" one from haltech

unfortunately, like all 3 of their grommets it requires a 2" hole which is a waste of about an inch really. You end up needing a big fucken hole for this bad fleshlight looking thing. And it has this tail sticking back into the cabin.

I can do better than this.

Perrin makes an STI grommet for the vapist crowd.
https://www.perrin.com/shop/engine/firewall-grommet
18.47 delivered from bay of E. 1.4" so that means give or take 1mm I can use a 1 3/8 hole saw. Saves 5/8 of an inch, or about 16mm, so that works for me. Ordered. If it gets a bit tight getting the step drill in there, I have a HF one that is blunt on the first couple steps so take those off with the grinder to make clearance and bore the ****** out.

So waited for that

next


A white christmas indeed


Stripped the paint off and rubber trimmed the edges of ECU mount

Scuffed up the surface rust and **** with a wire brush and a little krylon perfessional

Mounted the bumper support bar



Can see that sweet chassis tweak

Tweaking so hard.

bolted in the ECU

got some velcro down and rough markup

Batman nordic slippers knitted by the missus for xmas

This week's snack. 2 days of jerking my meat.

Grommet arrived today, is warm so will try and get out to the barn later.

msmola2002

So: updates.

been renovating house, and had a few other things on. Managed to scratch my eyeball a couple of weeks back that wasted a day, did some OT and have achieved largely **** all.

But here we go

So I left you with the grommet\

So the next step was to drill the firewall with the step drill, maybe cut the step drill with an angle grinder so not too much went thru and I don;t hit anything.

Guess what this dumb see-hunt did? One more step he said. It'll be fine he said


Nailed the fucken main wiring harness. Oops indeed. To find this I pulled the glove box out, then removed the HVAC blend box.

I had a look on the ebays, and I did find that I could buy a replacement harness with that part number from several vendors for around about 100 bucks. But I am so, so cheap and I need to tap into the 12V and ground anyways to feed the power for the WB controller, so figured I'd at least save this one.

That yellow and black one there I joined is the CEL wire the PO cut.



So what I did was pull the connector apart, and depinned it one pin at a time. THe majorly damaged wires, if which I think there were 2 or 3 I cut, and spliced in new wire with a taco crimp and adhesive heatshrink over the top. Any dame to insulation got heatshrink. I also took the opportunity to remove the vampire taps from the p-p-p-p-p-powercard install, and heatshrink over those wires to try and keep it all together. Groce, but you gotta do what you gotta do.



Drywall. He's halping.


Got more of the ECU plate done. Shortened the DTM 4 connectors used for the CANBUS connectors and the OBD harness. THis is largely the finished product but I do not have the DT2 connector tapped in off the power and gnd wires on that harness to feed teh WB module. I then spent 11ty billion dollars and bought a couple of DTM 12 pin connectors. I will run everything that comes in from the engine bay to these and then to the busbars or ECU. Why? so I can unplug and remove plate if needed.

msmola2002

DickRocket finally delivered my barn heater. THey punched the expected delivery date back by ten days the day it was due then updated so delivery would be in 3 days. It then was "early for delivery". I wish i could cook my metrics that easily at work. Wonder why it took nearly 3 weeks to show up? Thing is well travelled. This thing has been coast to coast and its carbon footprint before i even filled it with kero is pretty spectacular.




Stapled up a bunch of plastic drop sheets over holes in the roof and segregated off rear half of barn. Airtight and insulated? nah. but if i can get the thing to not be -20, close enough.







Angery.



some days are just shitty cold mornings and you have other priorities.


Big bore

View from up under the dash. NOTE WHERE THE GODDAMN WIRING HARNESS WENT.

D i g i t a l. Had to cut the scored lines. Once the wires are in will ziptie it up to keep water out.

Eyyyyyy! Note fire extinguisher powder I miised. oops.

from the inside. Stripped back insulation from around hole so wires don't need to do a 90 as soon as they go in

I used camper seal from blue HD to re foam the HVAC box.

I also had a **** of a time getting this fucken thing back in. In the end I hogged out the lower firewall side mounting bolt hole to get it to pop on. Box is in place and clamped to AC, need to find the screws and reinstall blower motor and glove box stuff.

msmola2002

So yeah, 10 weeks

what's happened?

Not much.

Legit have not touched the car. Need to finish getting the HVAC reassembled and actually install the trubo.

Parts have quietly rolled in. Have a front and rear set of ABS spindles and hubs, with sensors

scored a used haltech I/O expander box

SADfab bearing kit and upper spherical kit.

did some stuff to the house.

Went to jamaica and sat beach adjacent for a week.

Put my MX bike back to operational and removed a couple of cups of sunflower and peanut shells that were nesting in the airbox.

Worked OT to pay for all the above.

So yeah, **** all.

msmola2002

so, uh
Dumb **** happened today. I did work on the car last weekend and need to document that but today was a big thing.
It's a whole thing and it involved MT members and interstate logistics
But I now own a low mile built bottom end with supertech 8.6s, some flavour of rods, ATI superdamper and a VVT boundary oil pump screwed together by mazworx. I also acquired the head that was on this as well, a bp05 with +0.75mm valves and ST double springs and a port job. Needs a water pump, head gasket and some ARP studs, and we are good to boogie. I'll also swap over my exhintake cam and VC with the NB pickups.

For now, need to sell some ****, get the car running on the engine in it then come a long weekend swap it over to this thing

msmola2002

Ok, probably should sit down and do some updates, has been a while.

January 29th decided to run down to the local U-pullit, and snag a part I've been thinking about

Beautiful january day.

Found one! Volvo S40 PS pump. Cost me like 15 whole bucks

Roached RX7 was there

As was this cool merc.

Dummied it up on a fuel can in front of car to see where i can maybe sneak it. Radiator bar makes so much room for activites


Yeah, that hose ain't gonna work

This hose needs to really move back

Plan is to trim metal work back a .little further and tuck it under that cutout for the ABS washer fluid bottle


Random engine bay pic?


Giant box holding a cap for the PS res. Is a vented hydraulic reservoir cap. Screws into an NPT socket, which I will JB weld into top of PS res.

I/O12 I snagged off aussie ebay arrived!

Feb 20, whole bunch of rain flooded barn. No power outlets are in the water, don;t worry

Which then all froze up

gross

Now time to make downpipe and heater hoses all fit at the back of the engine bay, getting into april now.

How she looks after a little love with the BFH. pipe touching dipstick tube

got the pipe in line with the little shelf

looks like she gonna hit

trimmed the hose down a little

Made love with the BFH to the shelf

NOW we have clearance

And here we have no clearance. ****.

that WG housing is a ways from the compressor. I slotted the holes on the bracket where both the actuator goes and on the turbo mount

m a s h e d

hello thar, IC piping checking in

bought an NB hose to make a little more room over that side of bay

msmola2002

Local hardware has a nice range of JIZ hardware


disappeared to iceland for a couple weeks with the missus in a camper. Drove the ring road. Here are some puffins


Egilsstadir had some sweet bro trucks. Icelandinc bro trucks are best bro trucks.


Got the engine I bought on a stand.


Bit of damage to the ATI. I'll tap that out with a brass drift i think.

bendy


Kinugawa WG bracket and actuator, 0.5 bar spring. Outlet hose is doubled back, and i trimmed the aluminium pipe. I need to reclock the turbo to raise the outlet. On the list.


So much room from the bonnet/hood.


nice cranked arm.


Was getting some exhaust blowing by the included V band clamp.


Tightened it but it ended up snapping.


Solution was a Vibrant 1490C. Fits super nicely.

Anyways, the story is out in another thread, but this is the engine i picked up
https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...-brains-93959/ The story is on the last page

Car had a bit of a mischief on the tail of the dragon
https://goo.gl/maps/2QmttBiXE1cEmED76


The car was parted out, the engine was split and the head and lower end sold to two separate MTers in Indy.

One of whom has family within an hour. Both parties sold their parts to me, so I have this engine, still in 2 pieces. Needs a head gasket, and I will reinstall the head studs and head, and replace the water pump which had the alternator ear snap off.

Then at some stage install it. That's the engine story. We are at about the 4th July weekend now. Sold my core engine i was keeping to rebuild and got the built engine on the stand, and as of today is still on the stand and a headgasket is in my amazon cart.


Raced some pitbikes down in Milford CT


Then went to Canada to visit the in laws. Drove to Toronto.


Hells yeah


LES DENTS


Then flew to Alberta to see the fam. Cute.


Say what you will about the canucks but they know how to make some straight roads. 25 mile drive. 7 Bends corners.

Came back

raced some pitbikes again

This time at Monticello NY

Backed the miata out of the barn, but the rear brakes were seized

Jacked it up to freee the brakes


then...


Caught the spicy cough


So we are up to the end of september








Drove to syracuse and scored an RX7 housing.

And - it runs

Scaxx

That's a hell of an update

msmola2002

Well, there is almost a year's worth of stuff there.

Tune in again next August for another update

msmola2002

Not much of an update.

Here is the log of the 1st run, 1st to 4th gear


Y axis, boost in KPA

Y axis - AFR

Looks like we are topping out at about 5psi which is a bit lower than I'd like. So, may have a boost leak, or maybe the kinugawa WG actuator has an inaccurate spring rating. Whatevs.

BOV is fucken obnoxious, so over winter, plan is check for boost leaks, maybe throw a different WG spring in, and sort some plumbing. Want to reclock the trubo so it exits pointing down to 6:00 and tee a 90 off that out to the front then down.

Also found a minor coolant leak from mixing manifold o-ring. Sourced a 10 pack from mcmaster, same as what miataroadster sells but far fewer dollarydoos.
https://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=6540K251

Will do that when the turbo comes out to reclock.

So drove that a little then I got a call from someone updating their meotter to a Haltech IC7 dash, and had an IQ3 at a decent price. So despite having zero need whatsofuckingever for one of these things, I said yes

Front

Rear

proposed mounting location

The thing has been powered up and was displaying stuff for the PO, but his car has not been operational, and the upgrade. My gauge faces were a gift and will remain, so Another mounting option required. THe dash is quite thicc. I dummied it up on top of the steering column but it will hit the gauge hood. If I move it forward enough to clear, it fouls on the control stalks. So bought a mounting bracket thru holley, and will attach adjacent to the hood. Big question now is where to put the CAN keypad when i get to one of those.

So the cluster is waiting to go in. I also just sourced an AEM CAN hub, as it works out about half the price of a haltech unit. I plan to run a can cable from the ECU location, up to behind the stereo and having the hub up there, and runnigng hte gauge and a CAN keypad. I will remove the OBD dongle from the other CAN port on the ECU as it is now redundant, and put the IO12 expander into that port. About the only other CAN device I may want to add is a TCA2 thermocouple amplifier, if a used one hits the market, which I would use to monitor exhaust temperature but I am not paying RRP for that, but I do keep an eye on ebay.

What next?



Picked up a pedal box to play with.

The top left stud is in the correct location. bottom right, will bend the side of the frame down flat and tack in an M6 BHCS for the lower right stud

Bend at the yellow marks, in the red direction - this ****** should damn near bolt in for DBW goodness.

Next arrival was not parts but something completely alien and different

Say hello to Brooke, as I say goodbye to money and spare time

Few days later got some parts in the mail from the UK








G19 engineering in the UK has developed this natty little gubbin for running a ZF/Cherry hall effect sensor on a BP4W or BP6D head. I ordered a spare as well, and a couple for a homie. Postage was via royal mail by request which saved a few shekels. Look forward to installing this, and converting from CAS on rear of head to NB triggering with a 36-2 trigger wheel. I also ordered a second ZF to use with my LowDoller driveshaft collar to use for VSS.

https://lowdoller-motorsports.com/co...ing-rpm-collar I can;t for the life of me get VSS to work on the haltech from the speed from the cluster. Jsut doesn;t work
So will try this and fab a bracket or drill into the PPF to mount a GS100502 to pull speed from the shaft
https://www.alliedelec.com/product/z...eferrer=search

As it stands now I have no VSS, so with the IQ3 will be able to run displayed gear, run launch control with speed based shutoff, fuel cut on overun, or any other feature that requires VSS. Most importantly, TC.

Parked up for the season


And started playing with my very Northeastern Torsen 4.1 I bought a few years ago. Gonna clean up, paint, and swap on my RX7 housing


Wire brushing and chiseling that crust.


Only rounded off two of the 10 bolts. So gonna dremel off the heads I guess. The housing is quite rusty. So tomorrow will split the housing from the pumpkin and then treat the cast iron with the phosphate treatment and hit with some POR15. the RX7 Housing I'll hit with simple green, and since it is fucken winter I'll take it to the car wash and pressure wash clean, then slap a coat of silver paint on it, cos why not make it a little pretty since I'm in there. Then get car off the deck, drop the PPF from the trans, unbolt my 2 pc drive shafts and drop the diff and PPF.

And final thoughts, need to work out if I want/need an 8 or 15 button CAN keypad, and where to install. Also need to decide on future plans - I am 99% sure they involve a Garrett T3 turbine housing to suit a GTX2860, and a Pulsar 2860 Gen 2 supercore. I plan to remain limited by injectors (640s) as basically the reason I bought the built engine was for reliability and limiting that fuel keeps me from trashing drivetrain, needing to buy new injectors, pump, etc etc and getting into an arms race with myself. It's a feature, not a bug. Only exception would be if a station carrying E85 opens up near me, which is unlikely - nearest is an hour or so.

msmola2002

Left out my black friday purchases

A pair of Syltech 5 bar sensors.

https://www.platinumracingproducts.c...ressure-sensor

They things use a DTM3 connector. I was about to buy a pair of honeywell sensors from ballenger on BF

Some searching suggests these are Honeywell MIP sensors, and can be had for 58 bucks/ 15 bucks cheaper from mouser or digikey
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...PSAAX/10671077

add in ~10 bucks of tax and connectors and shipping and **** and BF free ship from oz for the syltech means that for about 20 each extra (~95USD each, delivered) I could have nice DTM connectors instead of dealing with fuckass pull to seat GT150 packard bullshit.

5 bar to run fuel pressure, (should do 4 bar gauge pressure of fuel pressure) and one for coolant pressure.

Also available from dorifto supplier in florida if you wish to buy US local.

msmola2002

msmola2002

Minor updates. printed out a template for the haltech CAN keypad and need to work out where I can locate it in teh cabin. 15 button would be better for when am eventually able to do DBW and cruise control, gonna burn like 4 for that. need one for AC, leaves 1 for say, map levels, one for antilang and maybe 1 for log. 15 may be overkill tho. Can also put in a launch, thermo override and some others. will see where I have I can put it. Not a lot of real estate. I plan to go double DIN stereo for the android auto at some stage and that will take up the whole space the DDMworks bracket and single DIN is. I look forward to pissing off the AEM WB and cheap parts store bosch boost gauge, now I have the IQ3.

The Easy Button would be **** the whole stereo off, hide an amp or something somewhere and bluetooth off the phone with a RAM mount and put a 15 key on the blanking plate. I literally use the head unit to play from a USB stick, or stream via BT. So maybe there is a hidden option I need to look into.

anyways.

AEM CAN HUB. works out about 50 bucks cheaper than a haltech

What I will do when I buy the keypad is also order a 10' haltech CAN cable. And once I know what goes where, I will cut it. need a run to behind the tombstone where I will put this hub, then a run to keypad and a run to the IQ3. Need to see what the keypad comes with and what I need for the IQ3, I have some stuff with that. or I could buy some wire, some heat shrink and twisted pair my own CAN cable. yeah, nah, **** that. easier to just cut a long one and stick a DTM 4 on the end

I pressed out the bushes, cleaned up the RX7 housing then slapped the exhaust paint on it. looks good, will be a gouged up POS by the time I get it anywhere near the underside of the car.





Have installed a brand new vent, will reuse the magnetic drain as a filler and have a MiataRoadster neodymium SUPERMAGNETOMGWTF for the drain. Also got a pair of fresh side seals.

I have slapped a coat of paint on the diff pumpkin and hopefully will be able to mate the two this weekend, jsut went and got a fresh toob of THE RIGHT STUFF.

I also managed to sell my VVT head and the diff housing that came off the torsn, so that eases the pain on these fellas that came from the Mental partout



SO MUCH ORANG

Basic specs - as per the listing, last rebuilt ~<5000 miles ago, 550/350 spring rates. These are the Gen 1 AST based units.

I'm gonna grab a set of shock condoms to try and keep em as minty fresh as possible, as a rebuild was quoted as 275 per corner from the current service guys, which is a little spicy so I'd rather avoid that if at all possible.