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My 2001 Italian Stallion money pit build

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Old 06-19-2017, 07:04 PM
  #681  
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Turbo is a bit big, sort of 2871 sized. Expect crappy spool. There are not any good t25 chinachargers out there. For a t25 that will have the spool you want and hold 250whp you need a legit Garrett 2560. Plan to spend between $400-$700 on one depending on how long you look and luck.

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Old 06-19-2017, 07:07 PM
  #682  
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Ooof. And if it creeps gl with that stock motor.
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Old 06-19-2017, 07:37 PM
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at least the flapper looks pretty big so he could hog that hole out a ton
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Old 06-19-2017, 07:39 PM
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Waller it real good like.
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Old 06-19-2017, 07:41 PM
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Like a hot dog down a hallway.

The cast downpipes looked kind of restrictive.

Either way. That's gonna spool like *** compared to Ed's ball bearing gt(x?)286(7?)
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Old 06-19-2017, 07:46 PM
  #686  
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lol expect full boost by about 4600-5000

1000whp supra powerband
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Old 06-19-2017, 07:48 PM
  #687  
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Originally Posted by 18psi
lol expect full boost by about 4600-5000

1000whp supra powerband
Sounds like a way cheaper and cost-effective way to get the performance of homeboy and his 3076R.

I approve.
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Old 06-19-2017, 07:48 PM
  #688  
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Originally Posted by shuiend
Turbo is a bit big, sort of 2871 sized. Expect crappy spool. There are not any good t25 chinachargers out there. For a t25 that will have the spool you want and hold 250whp you need a legit Garrett 2560. Plan to spend between $400-$700 on one depending on how long you look and luck.
This was my spool data on that turbo a year ago. VVT, ebay cast iron mani.

Boost from 5th gear starting at 2650. Not 2K but close enough.

3 PSI: 2780
6 PSI: 3034
9 PSI: 3330
12PSI: 3564
13PSI: 3633 (little turbo full boost of 13 PSI)
If I had started at 2K like most here do, numbers would look better. I'm sure a real garrett is better. But it's very livable IMO, not that crappy. Virtual Dyno showed 200 ft*lbs @ 3,450 RPMs.
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Old 06-19-2017, 07:51 PM
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You know the reason for starting at 2k isn't to inflate numbers. But to give an equal starting point for comparing many turbos.
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:12 PM
  #690  
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Originally Posted by patsmx5
This was my spool data on that turbo a year ago. VVT, ebay cast iron mani.


If I had started at 2K like most here do, numbers would look better. I'm sure a real garrett is better. But it's very livable IMO, not that crappy. Virtual Dyno showed 200 ft*lbs @ 3,450 RPMs.
e85?
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
e85?
Yes, forgot about that. Never done any A/B testing, how big a difference does that make?
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:46 PM
  #692  
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its definitely noticeable. and you're not at elevation either which is even more significant.

I guess we'll see
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:54 PM
  #693  
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But it is a nice manifold, so if he is not happy, he can get a real garrett and hog out the wastegate.
I know we all all happy to see you getting closer to being boosted again.
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:55 PM
  #694  
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I still have those carbide burrs, from when me and you were doing some reaming... I'll open her up real good, and get a channel ground out from the flange to the wastegate opening.

Sure it would be nice to be somewhat quick at 200whp, but if I'm being honest, as long as I'm at or above 100kpa most of the time, that's the bare minimum.

Yeah the cast downpipe that he showed looked restrictive, but iirc that was for a different turbo.

I plan on using overboost protection, so if/when it creeps, I won't splinter the rods. I contacted the seller, and he said the wastegate starts opening at 7psi. However accurate that is.
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:56 PM
  #695  
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Originally Posted by sonofthehill
I know we all all happy to see you getting closer to being boosted again.
Thanks a lot! Me too!
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:00 PM
  #696  
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Don't rely on overboost protection. It's not easy on your motor.
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:05 PM
  #697  
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Can you explain why? If it's not too much trouble. Fuel cut won't stop it from raising in boost? I can always just lift off the throttle?
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
Don't rely on overboost protection. It's not easy on your motor.
Sure, don't literally rely on it for boost control, nobody does that. But what are you talking about its not easy on your motor? Compared to not using it, and boost just keeps building till a rod exits, it's easy on the motor. I've had it save my motor many times, one of the best features the ECU has IMO.
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:07 PM
  #699  
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Because it's reactive. Kinda like a knock sensor.

If you constantly hit cut, you need to fix the issue. Asap.

Of course on a built motor this goes from problem, to blessing
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:12 PM
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He just means, if you hit boost cut, fix the problem. Don't keep driving it like that, as if anyone could tolerate that.
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