patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

100% a fuel cut will stop it from making boost. No fuel, no combustion, no hot gasses to expand across the turbine to spin up the turbo. It's a 100% reliable method of reducing boost, and used when all other methods to control boost have failed. It is literally a fail safe device to keep your motor from breaking from a failure of your boost control system.

sonofthehill

iTrader: (1)

It is a very important feature.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I sincerely hope you've got a couple grand saved up for when you break something.
And another means of transportation too

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Creep doesn't happen randomly. Boost cut is for a blown wastegate hose, or something in the wastegate stuck. You don't want to rely on overboost protection because your turbo creeps.

thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

1. we don't know this turbo will creep, especially with the restrictive cast downpipe section

2. 7psi on that turbo is like 170whp at my altitude, even if it creeps to 12psi, thats like 210 maybe. i have stock rest of the exhaust. How can 210whp break my engine? I have decent engine management, and everyones help on here to not go too aggressive on timing or fuel.

3. wont a slower spooling turbo be even nicer on rods?

icantlearn

I would think overboost is pretty violent on the rods. I mean, thats how it feels at least. So I just tuned my EBC to not do that anymore. If I can do it, you can do it. Im a dumbass.







kinda.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I sincerely hope you have a good chunk of money saved up for when you break something. Cause I'm done being buzz killington and this will be the last time I say this.

thumpetto007

iTrader: (15)

I mean, I have been selling some of my stuff, so I have some savings. But I don't understand, I'm following the abc's of miata turbo. Where am I going wrong?

What am I going to break? I thought I was getting decent stuff, using the same turbo Pat used at/over 20psi for like 2 years, at around half that psi, I found what looks to be decent quality hot side parts, I already have ms3 basic working and able to log and save changes. I have a clutch rated for 300wtq, cooling mods...

I'm just confused. one page ago i felt reassured that you guys seemed to like the Kraken parts, what changed?

What exactly is your thinking process? I'd appreciate some details, not just that I'm going to break something.

codrus

The best turbo Miata in the world is still something less reliable than I consider a requirement for DD.

--Ian

icantlearn

I would beg to differ. Unless you are remarking about the miata as an uncomfortable/impractical car. I have found mine to be quite reliable hardware wise.

codrus

You've owned yours for less than a year, right?

--Ian

icantlearn

Just passed a year last may. But still, its been good to me. I guess I'm still unqualified to say its been reliable. But its been a long past year, at least it felt that way.

codrus

Obviously it depends on your expectations. IMHO, a "reliable daily driver" is a car that, so long as basic maintenance is taken care of, will give you multiple years of service without ever leaving you stranded or otherwise scrambling to find alternate transportation when you can't drive it.

I've had a turbo on my Miata for 15 years now. In that time it's come home on a tow truck 4 times and broken on my own trailer twice. It's spent probably 8-9 months (collectively) of that time parked in the garage, disassembled so I could fix various broken things.

Now, I'm certainly pushing the car harder than many people do, and some of those failures are from beating on it at the track. OTOH, I don't know anyone with a car that's modified to the point of making double the stock horsepower who sees anything approaching unmodified, OEM-level reliability.

Can a turbo Miata be relatively reliable? Sure. But I'd still recommend having a backup method for getting to work...

--Ian

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I like the kraken manifold.
I'm just really worried about you turbocharging....your only car......with just enough money........to scrap together a budget setup.
I'm not trying to be a negative nancy. It just seems really risky unless you've a backup plan or backup money.
That's all I'm saying.

If things have changed over the past year and you're doing ok, then by all means, proceed.

iDizzle

Some good info in this thread.


https://www.miataturbo.net/mspnp-55/...ps-okay-73319/

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

My turbo is a GT2871R. This turbo should spool a bit slower than mine.

​​​​​​i do think it's the wrong choice for a turbo. I think you should have either gone with an SR20 T25 or one of the eBay T3s like what's in the MKturbo kit. I guess he's drilling your manifold in the T2 pattern?

I say that because I really believe 200ish who would be plenty satisfying for you if it was more responsive and made more torque. My car at 230whp barely makes 200 wtq. If you had a turbo that made 220 whp and 220 wtq you'd like it a lot more than my setup.

It definitely would be a good idea to have a backup plan.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I think the manifold choice is fine. It is the turbo choice that is going to be far worse then what you want, based on the emails you sent me. I have used 2 or 3 china t25's over the years and never been overly happy with any of them. All had crappy spool characteristics. None of them felt "good" on a miata. I much prefer the legit Garrett SR20 t25 or a Garrett 2560, they spool noticeably better then the china chargers.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I agree with the above. Would have personally went with an sr20 t25 or the MK special t3. Like I said, I'm betting on 4700-5000 as his torque onset

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

But there is nothing we like more than being proven wrong.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

it doesn't really even matter though. even a 3 psi fart from the laggiest snail will still make his car way more fun.
I can't imagine how slow 129whp must feel at 7k elevation