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Just in case you didn't know, you are supposed to bolt everything down LOOSELY before tightening anything. That helps to get everything to align as to be able to get everything to fit, and then if say, the DP needs to move an 1/8" this way if possible for clearance, odds are something has a bit of slack or wiggle room and you'll get it.
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Originally Posted by 2002SilverMiata
(Post 363883)
In the instructions, it says to connect the lighting stuff to a switched wire that goes to the lights... I want them to change with the rheostat for the inside lighting... which wire should I tap on that rheostat to get that effect? Thanks.
FWIW, my BEGI kit took a long time to get, but overall I was pretty pleased. Instructions need a serious overhaul tho... |
Originally Posted by Saml01
(Post 364825)
How much space is there between those points?
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Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 364844)
Just in case you didn't know, you are supposed to bolt everything down LOOSELY before tightening anything. That helps to get everything to align as to be able to get everything to fit, and then if say, the DP needs to move an 1/8" this way if possible for clearance, odds are something has a bit of slack or wiggle room and you'll get it.
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Originally Posted by bryanlow
(Post 364922)
This can be done. In vacation in HI right now so I have no reference, but IIRC there are three wires. One of the wires increases in voltage inversely proportionally to light intensity. IE: full bright=0v, lights off=+12v. Use a multimeter to find this wire and use this wire as your ground. Therefore at full bright: 0v relative to +12v = +12v and lights off: +12v relative to +12v = 0v. Works nicely for me.
FWIW, my BEGI kit took a long time to get, but overall I was pretty pleased. Instructions need a serious overhaul tho... Yes, you are right about the instructions... a lot of updates are needed. Enjoy your vacation and thanks again. |
1 Attachment(s)
Measure the O.D. of those braided hoses and then get some rubber hose or fuel line that's that I.D. So if that hose measures .350" O.D., pick up a foot of 3/8 I.D. fuel line. Then just slit down its' length and slip it over the braided to protect it from rubbing into other things and causing damage. If you wish, you can just cut a couple 1-2" pieces of hose and put them over the braided stuff wherever anything may come in contact with it.
As for bryanlow's comment on the rheostat thing, he has a NA. NB's are different. As for the hose that's too short, you'll need a longer one. I just buy 1/4" or 5/16" (can't remember off the top of my head) fuel line and use it for all my little coolant hoses. It's flexible, high temp, high pressure, etc. Works well. The way yours are now must be fixed. Also, I wouldn't suggest zip tying things to sensors. See your second to last pic, above and to the right of the zip ties there's a bolt on the timing belt cover? Pick up some cable clamps and use that bolt to secure it. See how I did my oil feed for an example. These clips are available at Lowes for cheap, in hardware under specialty stuff. Attachment 208381 |
For the kinked line, get a clothes hangar and bend it to match the hose you need. Go Kragen, Autozone or whatever and ask them to find a molded hose to match. They will usually just let you go and look through their stock yourself. You'd be amazed at the stuff you can find. Even if you can't find a perfect match you can always get two molded 90° elbows and join them with a coupler.
For the braided lines, I sheathed most of them in clear heat shrink tubing. You can get usually get long lengths of tubing at an electrical supply house, or at better electronics stores. I got mine at Fry's. You can just see it in this pic. https://www.miataturbo.net/gallery/f...4/img_0531.jpg The stuff protects the lines and anything the lines may come in contact with. It also looks great and handles heat very well. About the rheostat, patsmx5 is right. I have an NA and don't know jack about the NB electrics so YMMV. Take some readings with a multimeter and post the results. If it uses PWM, take readings with your voltmeter set to AC voltage. |
Originally Posted by 2002SilverMiata
(Post 365143)
Pictures from today:
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-1-58-47PM.jpg you'll hate yourself if you use duct tape. that shit gets so gooey and nasty and unremovable. get a piece of rubber water or fuel hose and slit it and zip tie the hose around the SS line where it rubs. |
Thanks for the ideas. I will take the duct tape off... I may try the fuel line idea since I already tightened that. Thanks.
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Good to see you finishing up this project, after all the hype and drama. I'm also going with BEGi on my turbo build in spite of your bad experience with them. I'll be looking at your build thread being a noob here.
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Today, I was able to get the coolant / oil lines done. I also moved the DP a little more and clearance is better. I was going to start on the intercooler tubes, but I am missing clamps for that. Stephanie said she will send them out tomorrow. I had to spend a little time adjusting the compressor inlet tubing since the one I had received was made to go with the air filter, no MAF. I had to cut off 3 inches with the Dremel. I also messed up the harness for the MAF and had to solder one of the wires - pulled too hard trying to get the tube in before figuring out it doesn't fit :crx:
I also took the advice on the fuel line to wrap the braided oil line... worked great, thanks :) I think I may have a few hours tomorrow afternoon to get some things done. After that, I am going overseas until later this month... I will try to post tomorrow's progress pictures before I leave. http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-7-28-09PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-4-32-23PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-5-11-37PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-5-11-27PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-5-32-28PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-5-32-39PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-7-21-30PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-9-56-02PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...10-11-04PM.jpg |
Looking good. I would smear some JB-Weld on that drain. I did it and mine doesn't leak. It shouldn't leak, but they tend to start leaking after a while. I JB'd mine as most do and it's fine.
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Originally Posted by 2002SilverMiata
(Post 365603)
Stephanie |
Originally Posted by Stephanie Turner
(Post 365732)
It is very close to the belt. I would secure it with zip ties, discretely, to make sure it does not get sliced.
Stephanie By the way, thanks again for the help this weekend... :) |
Originally Posted by patsmx5
(Post 365616)
Looking good. I would smear some JB-Weld on that drain. I did it and mine doesn't leak. It shouldn't leak, but they tend to start leaking after a while. I JB'd mine as most do and it's fine.
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I would re-route the engine side coolant line. It looks too long for where it is. IF THERE IS ROOM, run it under the outside coolant line and underneath the turbo, back towards the engine. There should be a 90 degree adapter to help it fit easier.
Stephanie |
1 Attachment(s)
forgot to attach the photo...
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Originally Posted by Stephanie Turner
(Post 365773)
I would re-route the engine side coolant line. It looks too long for where it is. IF THERE IS ROOM, run it under the outside coolant line and underneath the turbo, back towards the engine. There should be a 90 degree adapter to help it fit easier.
Stephanie |
The routing of the line is fine, i just though it would look nicer the other way. But, I would not cut the frame more than necessary. When you put the comp. inlet tube on, play with it some and see if it will fit another way.
Stephanie |
Update: I installed the compressor inlet tube after cutting the 3" off. I also routed the wire from the original oil sensor wire to the original connector and connected that to the oil pressure sensor on the block.
The LC-1 was a little bit of an issue. I was not sure if I can strip the insulation, but there was no way to connect things without doing that. I am not done with the connections yet. http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-09-7-04PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-09-7-03PM.jpghttp://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-09-7-02PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-09-7-01PM.jpghttp://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-09-7-00PM.jpghttp://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-09-6-58PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-09-6-59PM.jpg The last picture is of my attempt to solder a lug to the ground wires of the LC-1. I had a junky solder gun, so it didn't work. I still have to get it done right :) http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-09-7-05PM.jpg I won't be able to work on the car for the next two weeks but I will update with more pics when I get back. |
Shoulda put the LC1 under the console by the shifter or inside the console.
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My LC-1 is ziptied in the same place as the OP's and it works fine. If I had put it in the console, it just didn't work out. For me, that location just worked better for wiring things up.
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Originally Posted by Saml01
(Post 366651)
Shoulda put the LC1 under the console by the shifter or inside the console.
I also had limited length from the sensor wire. This position has some but not much slack left in the sensor wiring. I was going to put the LC-1 on the firewall by the brake lines, per Stephanie's suggestion, but the sensor wire was not long enough to reach the bung. I think in that position, it's semi-protected and away from the exhaust heat and can reach the bung... compromise :cool: |
Originally Posted by 2002SilverMiata
(Post 366783)
I followed the suggestion of the LC-1 quick guide and I did not want to poke a hole in the shifter boot. Along with the turbo installation, I changed the clutch / flywheel / shifter boots... (besides brakes and reinforcement rail), so I don't want to ruin the new boots I installed.
I also had limited length from the sensor wire. This position has some but not much slack left in the sensor wiring. I was going to put the LC-1 on the firewall by the brake lines, per Stephanie's suggestion, but the sensor wire was not long enough to reach the bung. I think in that position, it's semi-protected and away from the exhaust heat and can reach the bung... compromise :cool: Where is ur Wo2 sensor bung that you needed to place the LC1 under the car? |
Originally Posted by Saml01
(Post 366896)
You dont poke a hole in the boot, you place the cable between the boot and the frame of the car.
Where is ur Wo2 sensor bung that you needed to place the LC1 under the car? You are probably right and it's probably safer inside the car... I may change that later. Like I said before I went with the suggested installation on the quick reference guide for the LC-1. Here is the text from the guide: 1. Find a suitable location under your vehicle where the LC-1 body can be mounted. Using zip ties or other suitable method, fasten the body of the LC-1 device securely to the framerails or other mounting points as far away from the heat of the exhaust system as the sensor cable allows. DO NOT zip-tie the LC-1 by the cables. |
I have a couple of questions: I had a 'tune up' a few months before I started the project, including wires and spark plugs... Do you recommend changing the plugs or gapping them differently? Should I change the wires too? The tune up was done by a regular mechanic with regular materials. I'm still on vacation, but I had those questions on my mind... thought I'd ask.
By the way, I a short cross tube that Begi is remaking and should be coming next week, but since I have not been able to work on the car, it's not holding me, at least for now... I have to say, Stephanie has been very helpful in answering all the questions and has been sending things overnight if necessary... much better. |
Originally Posted by 2002SilverMiata
(Post 370844)
I have a couple of questions: I had a 'tune up' a few months before I started the project, including wires and spark plugs... Do you recommend changing the plugs or gapping them differently? Should I change the wires too? The tune up was done by a regular mechanic with regular materials. I'm still on vacation, but I had those questions on my mind... thought I'd ask.
By the way, I a short cross tube thatsd Begi is remaking and should be coming next week, but since I have not been able to work on the car, it's not holding me, at least for now... I have to say, Stephanie has been very helpful in answering all the questions and has been sending things overnight if necessary... much better. |
Originally Posted by 2002SilverMiata
(Post 370844)
Do you recommend changing the plugs or gapping them differently? Should I change the wires too? .
However, the spark plugs MUST be gapped down to 0.030 or 0.035. Most stock cars are gapped to 0.045. The car will not run well if not gapped properly. Stephanie |
Originally Posted by Stephanie Turner
(Post 370958)
The wires are probably ok. If they aren't it will become very obvious, very quickly.
However, the spark plugs MUST be gapped down to 0.030 or 0.035. Most stock cars are gapped to 0.045. The car will not run well if not gapped properly. Stephanie |
Install new BKR6E or BKR7E NGK sparkplugs and gap them to 0.020.
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Update: I have everything installed and I tried to start the car. First time, it would just start for a second, then die. I checked all the hoses...etc and I even took off the intake manifold and made sure all the injectors were seated. Second try, I can keep it running by keeping the throttle down a little bit. It runs very very rough and when I let go of the throttle, it dies completely. I tried that several times, same result. I will post pictures of the final setup later, but I need some help on this tuning stuff, since I don't much in that department. I will also ask Stephanie about it tomorrow, but anyone with ideas.. I'd like to hear them. Thanks.
I did gap the existing NGK plugs to 0.025 to split the difference in recommendations (.020 vs .030). I bought new plugs but did not use them yet. |
Check for vacuum leaks on both ends of every single hose and at every fitting for starters.
Check to make sure all of the sensors are plugged in and completely seated. Wiggle everything. Double check all of the new and old grounds for bright and shiny metal to metal connections. Make sure they are tight if they are bolted down. It seems basic, but you've had your hands on a lot of different things from under the hood to the tranny tunnel to the interior. Any one thing could contribute to this problem. Be thorough and take nothing for granted. Good luck. |
Finally found at least one problem. The MAF connector wires are corroded and breaking. When I moved them while the car was running, it ran smoother, more movement caused the car to run rougher or stall... I need the MAF connector with 2-4" of wire to replace mine... Anyone has one? Let me know. Thanks
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I was supposed to finish my MS install this week, but school and family are holding me up. If you don't have one by monday shoot me a PM, I will be happy to send you mine at that point.
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Originally Posted by gospeed81
(Post 377268)
I was supposed to finish my MS install this week, but school and family are holding me up. If you don't have one by monday shoot me a PM, I will be happy to send you mine at that point.
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lookin' good!
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Anyone have a MAF connector for 2001 to 2003?? Thanks.
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Update - I had to figure out a place for the LC-1 laptop wires, so I found a firewall hole on the passenger side and passed both wires through it into the passenger footwell area.
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-8-13-41PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-8-13-27PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-8-14-23PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-8-14-32PM.jpg |
I also had to figure out how to fix the MAF connector - I could not find one at any of the salvage yards around me and I didn't get anything on the WTB thread I put in. So, for now, I fixed it this way:
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...09-06-18PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...09-06-33PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...09-18-58PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...10-00-50PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...10-05-17PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...10-15-21PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...10-17-21PM.jpg I still would like to get a new connector if anyone is getting rid of theirs. |
Once I did the fix on the connector, the car ran better, but I think my A/F meter is getting some interference... I will deal with that later I guess. The car would run for a minute or two, then die. There was wet soot coming out of the exhaust. I could not talk to Stephanie about it tonight, so, may be tomorrow. Anyway, here is how everything looks right now:
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-8-13-11PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-8-12-55PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-8-12-44PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-8-12-29PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-8-43-28PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-8-43-11PM.jpg |
Other upgrades... As I had 5 months with the car on jack stands:
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-8-14-58PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-8-15-20PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-8-15-42PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-8-41-52PM.jpg It's off the jack stands now, waiting to go for a ride, after I tune it with Stephanie's help :) |
I want wilwoods, bad. Your cold air box makes me jealous too, I need to build something similar.
Clean car man. |
Thanks man. I haven't had a chance to try the brakes or the new reinforcement rail or the new clutch... the car has not been functional through out the whole turbo build and the installation of these parts. I don't even remember how the car drove before the upgrades :eek5:
And I haven't even finished this project, now I'm looking at another car... addictive 'problem'. :cool: |
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Originally Posted by 2002SilverMiata
(Post 377810)
The car would run for a minute or two, then die. There was wet soot coming out of the exhaust.
If the LC-1 is getting interference, go back and check your ground wires. We will work on tuning stuff tonight! Stephanie |
Originally Posted by chriscar
(Post 377889)
It is a torque conversion table since the torque wrenches I had were different than the shop manual units. |
I finally got the car off the jackstands and took it out a couple of times. I had to adjust the clutch travel because I could not even shift in the beginning with the clutch pedal on the floor! Anyway, I adjusted as much as I could and now it is manageable.
So, new problems came up: First, I remember my transmission dropping when I changed the clutch/flywheel and I did not notice, but the metal part with the seal is bent. Now it leaks. I looked it up in one of the miata books I have and it's called the tailshaft oil seal. I want to change it but I am not sure if the metal part is part of the seal. If it is, that would solve my problem. If it is not, I have much bigger problems... Anyone have a picture of rear transmission seal / tailshaft oil seal? If not, what does it look like? Is it the metal ring/flange with rubber seal or just the rubber seal? Second, I had an oil leak at the oil pan where I tapped it. I took out the AN fitting and all the threads are cross-threaded. It's loose in the hole. I had followed previous advice to use JB weld on the outside, but it still leaked. I found a Brass fitting that looks the same, but Stephanie did not suggest using that long term due to the different properties of brass/aluminium. So, I'm going to try to find another AN aluminium fitting to replace it but I am worried that it will also be loose since the hole may have become too large. Any suggestions on this issue? I had fun driving the car for a few miles, but I want to fix these problems first. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. |
Rear Transmission Seal Replaced
So, I started with the repairs on the leaks.
First I tackled the rear transmission seal because it seemed more involved to me. I removed the drive shaft without removing the PPF or the exhaust. I actually slipped it out between the exhaust, PPF and differential. Of course I had to remove the middle part of the Flyin' Miata reinforcement rail - royal pain in the ass to take out and put in :vash: Then, I used a small screw driver and gently tapped it around as much of the accessible part of the seal. I had bought a seal puller, but it was useless in this area. Here is what the seal looked like: http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-5-08-03PM.jpg Here is what it is supposed to look like: http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-5-09-44PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-5-11-20PM.jpg I used a seal driver kit to get the new one back in place after putting grease inside and outside to get it in: http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-5-12-06PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-5-14-00PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-5-14-17PM.jpg It was a little tricky to get it in and it took me a few tries. Using the driver with the handle made it harder, so I took the handle off and lightly hammered the driver (plastic piece) and at the end used the handle to finish tapping it in. Here is the final outcome (I apologize for the poor focus): http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-7-06-36PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-7-06-47PM.jpg I hope it does not leak because I really don't want to do this again :) |
Oil Tap Leak Repaired (hopefully for the last time)
I bought a new oil pan fitting and used JB Weld on the fitting threads and around it. The fitting did not seem very tight :eek5: when I put it on but I hope the JB Weld will do the job. Otherwise, I have to look for a larger fitting to engage the walls of the pan or have someone weld it on for me.... Anyone know how much it would cost if they had to take the pan off and do it ( I don't want to take it off myself)?
Sorry I did not take any pictures of this, but it looks like a fitting with a bunch of JB Weld around it ... nothing impressive. :cool: |
There is no taking the pan off without pulling the motor or dropping the front sub-frame. It is no small undertaking.
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Originally Posted by sbrian2
(Post 379813)
There is no taking the pan off without pulling the motor or dropping the front sub-frame. It is no small undertaking.
I don't know how to weld... is it possible to weld the fitting to the pan while it's on the car? Thanks. |
I'd try a larger fitting if the JB weld doesn't work. I welded a bung to mine when the motor was out of the car, but it would not be easy nor would you know the inside was very clean.
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Turbo install Finished
I finally got to really drive my car...:)
I have to get used to the acceleration since I lose traction in first, second and sometimes in third gear once the turbo kicks in. The boost gauge reads 10 psi (when I can look at it). I have different wheels/tires than my stock ones, so may be that is why the traction is not that good? I don't know :hsugh: Stephanie helped with the tuning but I need to learn how to do it myself... Help is always appreciated. I bought a DynoScan and did a few runs with that. Initially, the car was running lean according to Stephanie, but she helped adjust that. I did one last run and emailed it to her to see what she thinks. Anyone else using DynoScan / Xede combination? So far, the oil and trans fluid leaks are not showing up again... I hope I don't have to deal with again. |
Originally Posted by 2002SilverMiata
(Post 380198)
I finally got to really drive my car...:)
I have to get used to the acceleration since I lose traction in first, second and sometimes in third gear once the turbo kicks in. The boost gauge reads 10 psi (when I can look at it). I have different wheels/tires than my stock ones, so may be that is why the traction is not that good? I don't know :hsugh: So far, the oil and trans fluid leaks are not showing up again... I hope I don't have to deal with again. Stickier and wider than stock tires are helpful to prevent a loss of traction under acceleration in the lower gears, but they can only do so much. And they won't be very good at near-freezing temps, but they will give you a notable improvement at 60* and up. What are you running now for tires? I'm glad you didn't have to re-tap the oil pan, but it would have been doable. Are you enjoying the rush of the turbo yet? |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 381139)
You will always be dealing with traction issues when you have that much power in that light a car.:)
Stickier and wider than stock tires are helpful to prevent a loss of traction under acceleration in the lower gears, but they can only do so much. And they won't be very good at near-freezing temps, but they will give you a notable improvement at 60* and up. What are you running now for tires? I'm glad you didn't have to re-tap the oil pan, but it would have been doable. Are you enjoying the rush of the turbo yet? I have a small leak (not for sure oil or something else, but looks like oil) that I cannot locate, but I just want to drive the car. The turbo rush is great and comes on relatively smooth... I have two issues that I have to deal with. One, after a few times in boost and running in higher speeds/rpms (may be 80-100mph or so), there is a very loud noise as if the down pipe or mid pipe or the turbo itself (not sure) are hitting the chassis. When the car is cold, there is enough clearance, but may be everything expands when they warm up?? If I am did not go into boost and at higher speeds, the noise is not as loud and sometimes not there. Ideas?? Second, I'm trying to tune the Xede, but having issues. On the DynoScan, it shows the long term fuel trim as lean at idle, but when I increase fuel on the Xede MAF map, I get more gas smell and more hesitation if I push the gas and let it go. Also, if I rev it about 3 or 4K then let it drop, sometimes it dies. I did not change the timing or anything else on Xede map provided by Stephanie, because I really don't know what I am doing :noob: Anyone has experience with Xede who can help??? Thanks. |
Post your Xede question separately in the ECU and tuning section of the forum. People will read it there.
With regard to the noise, jack the car up and climb under it. Wiggle the exhaust in all three axis and see if you can replicate the sound. Try wiggling other things if that isn't it. What size wheels and tires are you using. I'd be willing to make an informed suggestion on a replacement tire that might offer more traction. |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 381592)
Post your Xede question separately in the ECU and tuning section of the forum. People will read it there.
With regard to the noise, jack the car up and climb under it. Wiggle the exhaust in all three axis and see if you can replicate the sound. Try wiggling other things if that isn't it. What size wheels and tires are you using. I'd be willing to make an informed suggestion on a replacement tire that might offer more traction. I have a new problem that I posted there in regards to the idle rpm not going down. Well, tonight, after going through all the interooler tubes to make sure there no leaks and through the vacuum tubes, the idle speed went below 1700, to 1300-1400. With A/C and radio on, it drops to about 1100-1200. I tried the idle adjustment screw and it didn't reduce it much since it was already almost in closed position. I also jacked the car and did hear any noise when I pushed the exhaust in any direction. Like I said, clearance is tight, but still, I could not get it to hit anything. I did find the air scooper can vibrate and contact the intercooler, so I bent the support pieces to get it a little further away. As far as leaks, I cannot find this one leak. It's on the driver's side. I checked all the lines going to the turbo and I just can't find anything. The oil return fix is holding up OK and I could not see any oil on that. Here are the pictures of where the oil is: http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-8-24-25PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-8-24-44PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-8-25-05PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-8-25-18PM.jpg http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...-8-25-28PM.jpg Ideas? |
Power steering lines and/or fittings maybe leaking under load when the wheel is turned? Check for tightness.
Damn, that rust is terrible. |
Originally Posted by sixshooter
(Post 382771)
Power steering lines and/or fittings maybe leaking under load when the wheel is turned? Check for tightness.
Damn, that rust is terrible. What rust?? :giggle: |
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