The turbo I bought came with an internal wg, I then took it off and sold it when I decided to go external, It's now as if there was never one there.

Also, why do u say the weld is going to give? I did a double pass on it and it made great penetration, I even preheated the cast manifold and then cooled it slowly in the oven. Not saying it wont, just wanna know what's wrong with it.

With the porting, I read several books on head porting and whatnot, and didn't take off as much as it probably looks, I mainly focused on smoothing the casting flaws and mixing bowl and deshrouding the valves, the intake side does not have a polished look in the end. Hopefully it doesn't give my negative gains, that would suck, but I guess I have no way of knowing as I never ran this setup on a stock head.

You're right I do have a MS, but when I first started driving the car on base tune it obviously was not right, I've since then tuned it and it runs great.

Thanks for all the input man, i appreciate it.

 

Welding to cast iron is just notoriously an iffy proposition, regardless of who welds it. It's alsways a good idea to avoid it if possible. Add on a weight support if possible.

 

Yeah I knew that but I had no choice, not really sure a weight support would help though. I'll probably just leave it how it is and if it cracks then I'll try some support or something.

 

my friend bought one of those 150$ ebay turbos

This turbo...

was spinning tires in 3rd gear... which caused third gear to do this.....


and then he bought a miata!

This is a cool build thread, i think mine will be slightly milder but on the same theme! Congrats on getting it done!
JP

 

Well a small and pointless update, got a cheap MBC online and tomorrow will be finishing the 1.8 diff swap.

Ordered the rest of the meth parts I need so soon I will be able to make det cans and start tuning.

As a side note, I've had this urge to pull my system apart and make an Absurdflow-style manifold and new downpipe. But I should resist the urge until at least next winter, no matter how badass it would be.

Also needing new tires soon, does anyone know what the widest size tire you can safely put on a 15X6.5 stock NB wheel?

Should have some logs to post spoolups by this weekend.

 

Toyo says the 225/50/15 is all good, but seems to reccomend against the 225/45/15.

http://marktg.toyotires.com/file/18968.pdf

Looking forward to the logs. Def. hold off on the Absurdflow style goodies until the car has broken something next year, and is already out of commision. There's something to be said for stopping the building, and starting the driving.

 

225's are what I was hoping I could fit, this will save me money on having to get wheels right now if I can get a tire shop to mount 225/50's on my wheels, thanks man.

 

On toyo's own site they are listed as fitting, so I don't see why it would be a problem at a good tire shop.

 

True, I need to worry more about getting this dang thing running correctly first though haha

 

Well I ordered the remainder of my meth injection parts, I have everything I need except the actual meth itself.

I couldn't find anywhere local that sells it, does anyone know of any cheap places to buy it online?

 

most people use windshield wiper fluid that is specifically rated to (I think its) -41 degrees. Those formulations almost always have the perfect 50% blend of meth and water.

 

in for spool logs.

 

Looks awesome man. Wish I had the tools/abilities to make everything myself. Can't wait to see the final results.

 

I've seen this discussed before, and although I'm not sure if I can even get -41 degree fluid in my area, I can't help but think that it's gotta be cheaper just to buy straight meth and mix it with water.

I could however easily be wrong.

 

Soon, I just finished up my diff swap tonight, so should be running 12ish psi by the end of the weekend.

Thanks for the kind words everyone

 

I use peak -20 windshield wiper fluid. It has 30% meth in it and is $1.99/gal.

 

Well I suppose that's not too bad, if I can find wiper fluid in my area with enough meth content then I'll try it, but I have my doubts that I'll be able to find it.

 

In for results as well! I got the exact same turbo and i'm doing a full diy setup as well, just using the internal wg and no engine work.

 

Ok well I finally got to take it for another drive yesterday. I did take some logs but I have two issues.

First one is, after the diff swap, I was getting a vibration or knocking noise that was coming from the rear somewhere, not exactly sure what's up with that yet.

Other issue is that my map readings are very shaky.

I've had this problem before the diff swap, and I cleaned all my grounds and ran some extras. It made the issue way better, but it's still there any pretty bad, so I was thinking it's gotta be:

-Still grounds are bad, but I think I ran enough that it should be good.
-Power input is not steady, throwing off all the readings, I'm going to try an inline power conditioner and see if it helps, I remember seeing someone say it helped them in the past.
-The MAP actually is that shaky, I'm taking it from port on the back of the IM, I've seen people say that's a bad place to get it from but idk, I'll try another one and see if it helps.

Let me know what you think though, it's hard to really get any for sure info about my spooling off of this. I'll try to resolve the shakyness issue but first of course I'd like to figure out what the noise is in my rear.

This is a 2nd gear pull.


And here's a 3rd gear pull, only to 5k rpm though.



Also, the afr map on the screenshot is obviously not the one I use to do VE ----. it just was the default that popped up when I opened MLV

Again, thanks for the comments and suggestions.

 

Do you have a boost gauge? Perhaps you are getting waste gate flutter or surge on the compressor. That's a pretty big compressor on a small engine and you are running a lower pressure ratio on the compressor side with what I would consider a large turbine AR on a 1.6L.

Just an idea from a newb. Experts can chime in and tell me how it is. ;^)