My miata SR20DET build
 

So everyone knows i had gotten a miata with a 13B turbo engine in it. So after fucking around with the rotary for 5 months i have had nothing but bad luck and problems. At this point the rotary is nothing but a money pit thats not worth it one bit.

After looking at the parts i had that i was able to sell i found i would have around 3500-5000 once everything sold. So i started to look into motors to do, with my power goals of 450-500whp. I looked into everything from the BP to the RB25DET and 1JZ. After spending a few days looking into what would be needed for all the motors i decided to go with the SR20DET. The reason i went for the SR20DET is the whole swap is 100lb less then the BP motor and the BP motor is with out the turbo parts. The other reason is The price to put a BP back in would coast more as i would need to buy a new subframe as the mounting spots have been modded to fit the rotary. The last main reason i like the SR20DET was the fact there is a lot of after market support for the motor and info on the motor. Also getting parts for the motor is easy as the Infinity G20 has a SR20DE in it just no turbo.

So today i ordered the motor after i sold a bunch of parts i ended up paying 1750.00 shipped to my door. There is a company that sells a kit to make it a bolt in kit. Im not going to buy the kit but i have been looking at photos i have found of the kit as the kit makes it so you can bolt the PPF to the SR20DET tranny. My plan is to copy the mount and then make motor mounts. The other thing i might have to to is make a rear sump oil pan and pick up witch should not be hard at all. Then just need to have a driveshaft made. I have a full restorations and metal shop with tools and materials to make everything with.

Im going start taking the rest of the stuff out of the engine bay so i can clean it and paint it. The silver in the engine bay just always looks dirty to me.

Here is how far i am at the moment.
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6837124_n.jpg

Lol!





;)

What the hell Michael...lets trade when you finish this shit box.

You should change your signature. Soon I'll be the rotard. <3

Is that kit cool with FD specs doggy?? Great move bro. Wish I had done it a long time ago...

Just fixed the sig.
Im not sure what your asking in the first question and thanks

Noooo its needs a 1j lol. Well I am glad to see you have gotten away from the rotary and moved to something a little more reliable.

Dont you mean 50x more reliable. :laugh:

Yea somethin like that.

So the motor came around 4PM today and after it got here i got hard at work. I got the motor into the garage and stripped the intake and exhaust manifold along with all the other crap. I dont plan to use the stock intake and exhaust manifolds im going to be changing them out with in the week. So i got the motor and trans slipped into the car for fitting. What i came to find was the front sump oil pan is going to need to be removed and a rear sump pan made. This shouldnt be so hard to do with some sheet metal and the factory pan. The factory pan is two parts the top part is aluminum and the lower part is steel im going to reuse the steel part so i dont need to make a spot for the drian. After i get all that done ill be able to see what i have to do for making engine mounts.

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._5723946_n.jpg
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damn you move quick

Yes i do lol, the only reason i stopped at the moment is its my step dads b day or i would still be in the garage working on the car. Hoping to have the oil pan and mounts made tomorrow and have everything mostly in.

eww redtop

jk jk

I miss my SR. wish I never sold it...I bet it would have ended up in my miata.

Looks like it is supposed to be there. I love swapped cars.

So today i woke up at 6AM went to miky Ds and got me 2 mic gridles then went to home depot. I got all the metal i would need for making mounts and an oil pan with new oil pick up. So i got back around 7-730AM took the motor and trans back out and unbolted the oil pan. Once i got it off i got to work on making a new oil pan and oil pick up. The reason i had to make a new pan and oil pick up is the SR20 is front sump and the problem with that is it hit the rack and sway bar. So after looking close at what i had i had to make the pan tight to the bottom of the motor in the front half and a deep well in the back half. I ended up having to channel the front part of the pan for the oil pick up. Once i got the oil pick up and pan done i got everything back into the car engine and trans. I got it all close to how i need to have it so i can start making the mounts tomorrow. Here are pics from today.:idea:
So yeah this was all done today and i only eat those 2 mic gridles

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...5_369085_n.jpg
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Damn son, impressive and fast work.

Subscribed.

Thought i would add what my first four upgrades are going to be these are in order also.
- Enjuku Racing - Performance Parts and High Quality Fabrication
*ISIS Intake Manifold - Sand Finish - Nissan SR20DET S13 [ IS-SRINT ] - Enjuku Racing - Performance Parts and High Quality Fabrication
*ISIS V2 Tubular Exhaust Turbo Manifold - Nissan SR20DET S13/S14 [ IS-SSH-NS13V2 ] - Enjuku Racing - Performance Parts and High Quality Fabrication
AEM 30-6601 Series 2 Plug & Play EMS Engine Mgmt S13 SR20DET

Loving the progress and the speed of it.

One thing: you better clean all that shit up before you start driving the car. the engine bay is a royal mess, and that's understandable during the fab/install time, but after that go to town on that sob with some simple green and a brush.

or I'll fly down there and beat you to death with my dildo:giggle:

Im am going to be tucking the wires and cleaning everything the engine bay is also getting painted black.

So today i got my engine, tranny, and diff mounts 99% done so here is were it stands. The engine mounts have some work still do be done along with the diff mounts. Also sorry to say there wont be any updates for about a weeks as im going down to GA for some R&R.
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So I went ahead and bought a gt35r off a member here. I did this after talking with a few people witch led me to this plan. AEM FIC, z23 maf, 850cc injectors, top mount manifold, greddy intake manifold, and gt35r. With the aem fic I'll be able to run a max boost of 25psi and clamp the maf so I don't get fuel cut. Going to keep the motor stock for this summer and shoot for 400whp on stock motor.

Cmon, a 35r and 850cc's? Go for ID1600's. :D

All this and then you go with a piggyback and run a MAF?

Son, I am disappoint

Oh wow, a piggyback. I didn't realize... unsubscribe time.

I am about to a order a FIC for the 2j it will give me much better fuel control and it will give me timing control. It is a great unit for what it is. Good luck with the new build.

It's piggyback and maf until next summer for when I build the motor everyone on the sr20 forums said don't waste the time with full ems until it's needed. They said for 400whp piggyback. I also might look into the EPROM chip that is tunable. I just like the aem more as I have used it in my last miata until I went diypnp. Erin I'm limited by the side feeds for injectors but fiveomotorsports now sells 1000&1200cc injectors.

Sean the fic is going for 300 shipped I'll pm you the link.

Great build! You sure do know how to work fast.
I am also in the middle of an sr20det swap, and its really quite interesting to see somebody elses approach to a common goal.
I wouldn't mind seeing a better pic of that oilpan, looks like you just started from scratch?
Also, do you know what kind of spool to expect out of a gt35r? I'm personally looking at a gt3071r twin scroll, but If the spool difference is negligible, maybe I'll step it up!

Anyways maybe we can bounce ideas off each other or something, and you should check out my build! Lol the link is in my sig

Yes the oil pan I did from scratch it dosnt look to perrty but it works. I like your oil pan a lot but I don't have a tig welder or the funds to pay a machine shop to machine the oil one down.

Not to sure of the spool I'm going to get with the 35r but I can't see it bei g very laggy on a 2.0L. A lot of the eve guys run it and make good numbers and power curve. If I had the money I would do a HTA3076R. That turbo will give you 30r spool with 35r power. I boxed my rear end in and then used c channel for the diff mount. Should also help stiffen the rear subframe.

I am wondering how I'm going to do my speedo I had to take the tail housing off the tranny to fix the shifter forks. I'm wondering if I could swap over the miata stuff to make it all work.

I will most certaintly be copying your plan of stiffening the subframe as part of the mount if that's cool ;). As far as the speedo, I think I'll be going with a standard electronic one.. Screw the miata cluster.. Neither the speedo or tach will do us any good.

Anyways, sweet to see your progress.

The Tach should work i dont see why not unless the tach sig from the sr20 ecu is not a normal 4cylinder tach sig. My tach worked with the rotary i had in there i could tell you what wire is the tach wire on the dash if you need the info. I dont care if you copy any thing lol.


I just ordered the ebay copy of the greddy intake manifold and the copy of the Tread Stone cast log style manifold for the SR. Now just to get the MS2 parts ordered and built. Then ill need injectors and fuel rail the good thing is i dont need to change the side feeds to top feeds. www.fiveomotorsport.com sell side feeds that flow up to 1200cc for only 350.00.

Have you already bought your turbo? The 35r?

Have you already bought your turbo? The 35r?

Yes i alread got the turbo on the way from rlogn.

Cool it will be interesting to see how well it spools

Nice work, will the engine mount unbolt from the body side?

Nope the engine is mounted to the subframe.

cool

how you going about making sure the trans stays aligned with the diff.

The diff just needs a bracket to hold it up. It already has two mounts that will hold it strait. I made the tranny mount so i could adjust left and right so i could get it strait. Now that i have the drive shaft im going to bolt everything in. then measure the gaps on the u joint. Once those gaps are the same i have it strait.

So today i got my new cast iron tread stone copy top mount log style t3 manifold today. I ended up having to drill the holes bigger and grinding the head flange down a bit as it was hitting the water outlet no biggy. Other then that it is a nice peace for 80 shipped. =]

Now just waiting for the turbo to come and the new intake manifold.

Sorry for no pic my fiancees car was broken into and they stole my camera and a few other things so idk when more pics will be coming.

Solid mounts?? I would rethink that.

I talked to Mike about that, he's going to be using some kind of rubber isolator.

As well as triangulating the mounts.

Good to know

Yea I would deff be putting some supports on that. I built my the exactly the opposite the big part of the mount is vertical with horizontal and diagonal supports. Good luck and it is looking good so far.

Yeah those pics are not of the mounts finished. I went and added a lot more to the mounts i also have rubber under between the mounts. I am not worred about the mounts im more worried on what im going to do with the hood. The engine hits the turbo hits so im thinking cowled hood or have the valve cover modded and make a cut out in the hood for the turbo.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-470800/
i was going to use this and mold it in so i could try and make looks stock ish. I need something 27-32" wide and no longer then 36".

That's a low mount turbo, how does it hit the hood?

I think he's using it as a highmount.

That was the stock turbo im running a top mount gt35r now.

So got my 35r today bolted it in and boom i now i only need 1.5inches to be able to close my hood.

So my hood fits new i went and got threaded rod connectors and then taped them for m8 1.25.

Here is a photo pics.

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Only down side at the moment.

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._2081126_n.jpg

Damn, that's sucks man.

I'm sure you could have a new manifold/dp made to lower the turbo, but to clear the engine this came to mind.

http://www.simpsondesign.net/louv_cowl_hood.htm

Yes i have looked into the hood but im thinking of later on new manifold to lower the turbo 2 inches.

Nice progress. I'd go with different manifold too. What kinda manifold is on there now? Kinda looks like a megan tubular or something like that.

I'm thinking it's OEM.

OEM:
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot..._6669205_n.jpg

Stock mani is a t2 flange, too, not a t3/t4

Come on, people. Read the thread.

LOL im running a Treadstone cast iron manifold, but once i get some balla money im going to have a balla manifold made. So its hood spacer for now.

Ahh, my mistake. I saw rust and I thought 'must be oem'.