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Old 03-18-2011, 03:08 PM   #61
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I might actually be able to re-use my charge pipes. If it works, then I'll have to find another way to spend the money that was going to be used on the new IC and charge pipes....a hard top?
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Old 03-18-2011, 03:08 PM   #62
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I had a slight leak from my manifold last year, not sure if there is a crease/kink in the gasket or not, I'll have to check it tomorrow if I still have it around.

Who knew 6 bolts would hold things up How many drill bits did you go through doing them?
sorry i've been quite confused lately. I can get through 2 of the wider (10mm hex head) bolts with one drill without a problem. They tend to get dull in the middle of the 3rd or 4th bolt. And when they get dull they snap. Booo.
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Old 03-18-2011, 03:25 PM   #63
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First off, can someone tell me what this bolt is used for that my dump tube is connected to? It is about 10" long and required a substantial amount of torque to break it free considering it's size.
The long 10mm bolt goes up through your oil pan and helps hold it on. If you pull off the transmission you can see the 2 long bolts going all the way up into the block.
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Old 03-18-2011, 03:47 PM   #64
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The long 10mm bolt goes up through your oil pan and helps hold it on. If you pull off the transmission you can see the 2 long bolts going all the way up into the block.
Nice, thanks. I was afraid something inside would get messed. I was a bit shocked when saw the length.
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Old 03-18-2011, 03:51 PM   #65
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I was a bit shocked when saw the length.

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Old 03-18-2011, 04:48 PM   #66
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I've seen your car's pic in your sig and always liked it - liking it even more now that I've read your build thread. Subscribed!
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Old 03-18-2011, 05:25 PM   #67
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I might actually be able to re-use my charge pipes. If it works, then I'll have to find another way to spend the money that was going to be used on the new IC and charge pipes....a hard top?
You were planning on spending $1000-1500 on charge pipes?
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Old 03-18-2011, 06:02 PM   #68
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You were planning on spending $1000-1500 on charge pipes?
I don't mean a brand new top from the dealer. I'm referring to a $300ish top that will probably require paint

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I've seen your car's pic in your sig and always liked it - liking it even more now that I've read your build thread. Subscribed!
Thanks, I would love to have it done in your mint green colour. Maybe one of these days.

Last edited by dgmorr; 03-18-2011 at 06:24 PM.
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Old 03-19-2011, 03:58 AM   #69
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You're right it does look like a *******. I've never seen it look like that before. How did you apply it?
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Old 03-19-2011, 04:41 AM   #70
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The valve cover paint? I've seen it do that when cold. I stuck mine 6" under a lamp whe. I saw it start to dry like that.
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Old 03-19-2011, 11:31 AM   #71
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lol, that's what I meant. I'm going to take it off and have it powder coated. I hate the look of this. Yes it was cold when it was applied, but I dried it inside the house.
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Old 03-19-2011, 12:31 PM   #72
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I should also add that after putting mine under a heat lamp so it wrinkled like it should, it promptly started chipping off.

Good move on the powder coat.
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Old 03-19-2011, 12:53 PM   #73
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The long 10mm bolt goes up through your oil pan and helps hold it on. If you pull off the transmission you can see the 2 long bolts going all the way up into the block.


Here is a picture of the long bolts.
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Old 03-19-2011, 04:34 PM   #74
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Excellent pic, thanks for that.
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Old 03-20-2011, 05:39 PM   #75
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Put in a bit more time adjusting the exhaust angles today and everything lines up well with no clearance issues. You can't really see it, but I have about 3/8" between the DP and 1/4" between the steering shaft. It'll probably need a bit more tweaking after the first drive.



I also installed the oil cooler. Still have to do the lines and adapter, I don't feel like messing with fluids today (remove oil filter) so I'm leaving that for another day. I'm not sure which version of the FM oil cooler kit I have since their website always shows the Setrab heat exchangers and I got a Mocal. I know the tabs should be above the rack mounts, but I couldn't get it to fit.



I put the rad back in and cut an OEM lower rad hose to work with the flipped mixing manifold. It fit perfectly, you'd think it was made to go that way.



The blue condom and zip ties is a result of Ontario winter/salt seizing the flare fittings. I wasn't able to dismantle the damned rack to do the FM de-power. I'll be looking for a solution eventually.

That's it for today. Still waiting on USPS with my turbine bolts, wtf.

Last edited by dgmorr; 03-20-2011 at 05:56 PM.
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Old 03-20-2011, 08:15 PM   #76
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I just installed the cooler lines. Right now I have two sandwich plates stacked at the oil filter. Seems a bit redundant to me, no idea why FM could not drill a couple holes in their plate for sensors. You guys think this is ok, or should I put my sensors somewhere else(oil psi and oil temp?)
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:22 AM   #77
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See if you can move the dump tube a bit closer to the downpipe.

The dump tube and downpipe move together when the engine rocks so the only space needed between them is to allow for thermal expansion which is measured in the thousands. You want more space between the moving and non-moving parts, like the steering shaft.
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:25 AM   #78
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Damn the engine bay looks so empty with the A/C and the P/S in there.
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:37 AM   #79
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Right now the dump tube is bolted down using the mounting tab on the bottom. If I get steering shaft contact then I'll have to go buy a bottle of gas to weld on a new stainless tab. I might also get some different engine mounts to reduce the movement, I want to try and avoid tainting the nice exhaust pieces with my shitty MIG welding. I'm sure I'll get some contact on the track though.

There is a ton of room, but only 1/3 of the turbo sitting in there right now.
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Old 03-21-2011, 11:58 AM   #80
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You dont need it.... i have my power steering fitting ~1/8" from the frame and it never hits.
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