Miata LFX Swap (Singular Motorsports & Good-Win Racing)
02-18-2019, 11:42 AM
#1082
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Superlap Battle USA 2019. We brought the HyperMiata to a power track to battle against 600, 700, and 800 hp cars. Day 1 we got down to a 2:23.4 and surprised a lot of people that we could be so fast with just 300hp. I am pretty sure we had the lowest hp in out of all 19 cars in Limited. The fact that we got protested in this field of monsters is both comical and a compliment. We're doing things right. Competitors are taking the Miata seriously, even at COTA.
After the Saturday night data and vid review we found a lot of areas where we could make improvements. Day 2 we had the setup dialed and I had all the places to find time on the track hammered into my brain. Unfortunately the transmission had an issue that ended our day early, but we’re coming away from COTA with a solid 5th place out of 19 cars!! It was an awesome event, amazing track, and we can’t wait to return next year.
I will have more to post soon, trying to clean up our Airbnb and get on the road this morning. Lots of miles to cover back to CA.
The cars ahead of us had no less than 650hp, and word is a couple were over 800. I'm curious to find more info on them. We learned a ton. We had more in it. We'll have to wait until next year to find it.
There have been tons of people reaching out on social media, forums, etc. following our efforts and I want to thank everyone for all the well wishes and support. It's been a truly epic weekend. I also can't thank my crew enough; Moti of Blackbird Fabworx, and Greg and my awesome girlfriend Bri, both of Goodwin Racing. The four of us were in constant motion and full attack mode all weekend. No way could I have done this without them. Here are a couple more pics grabbed from various locations for now, will have more soon.
Miata Is Always The Answer!
Me being awkward, no idea what to do with my hands!
Texas BBQ!
After the Saturday night data and vid review we found a lot of areas where we could make improvements. Day 2 we had the setup dialed and I had all the places to find time on the track hammered into my brain. Unfortunately the transmission had an issue that ended our day early, but we’re coming away from COTA with a solid 5th place out of 19 cars!! It was an awesome event, amazing track, and we can’t wait to return next year.
I will have more to post soon, trying to clean up our Airbnb and get on the road this morning. Lots of miles to cover back to CA.
The cars ahead of us had no less than 650hp, and word is a couple were over 800. I'm curious to find more info on them. We learned a ton. We had more in it. We'll have to wait until next year to find it.
There have been tons of people reaching out on social media, forums, etc. following our efforts and I want to thank everyone for all the well wishes and support. It's been a truly epic weekend. I also can't thank my crew enough; Moti of Blackbird Fabworx, and Greg and my awesome girlfriend Bri, both of Goodwin Racing. The four of us were in constant motion and full attack mode all weekend. No way could I have done this without them. Here are a couple more pics grabbed from various locations for now, will have more soon.
Miata Is Always The Answer!
Me being awkward, no idea what to do with my hands!
Texas BBQ!
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02-18-2019, 12:12 PM
#1083
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Props to Ryan and crew for the solid finish! The effort was stellar and inspiring for many.
When SLB announced CoTA I thought "Well, the BFH hammer approach to a racecar will probably be on podium instead of a well developed purposed tool." So it seems that has happened, at least for the first year..... Putting the raw weight
ower numbers down of all the cars would be quite eye-opening I'm sure. As more drivers continue to put in the development for this track, the ones that are a well polished purposed tool will shine through like usual.
/benchrace-time
I don't know all the names within GTA, so we'll use Ulrik as an example. He was ~5-6 seconds off Ryan at ButtonWillow, which is a much short track in terms of lap-times. It's known that Ulrik has more power than Ryan(~350rwhp for that 1.6?). He managed to be within ~4 seconds of Ryan even with messed up front aero. That's a much smaller delta.
The big takeaways on that IMO are:
1. Ulrik did really well that event to shrink the delta, given the circumstances.
2. Even 50hp can make a yuge difference when you're WOT so often. #deadhorse
There's tons of other variables, though. The tires, the type of track, recent changes to either car yada yada. But hey, this is bench-racing after-all!
My prediction based on how Ryan has operated in past events/tracks and if Hypermiata ends up with ~500rwhp and continues chassis/aero development for CoTA...... he'll turn a low 2:17 or high 2:16.
When SLB announced CoTA I thought "Well, the BFH hammer approach to a racecar will probably be on podium instead of a well developed purposed tool." So it seems that has happened, at least for the first year..... Putting the raw weight
ower numbers down of all the cars would be quite eye-opening I'm sure. As more drivers continue to put in the development for this track, the ones that are a well polished purposed tool will shine through like usual./benchrace-time
I don't know all the names within GTA, so we'll use Ulrik as an example. He was ~5-6 seconds off Ryan at ButtonWillow, which is a much short track in terms of lap-times. It's known that Ulrik has more power than Ryan(~350rwhp for that 1.6?). He managed to be within ~4 seconds of Ryan even with messed up front aero. That's a much smaller delta.
The big takeaways on that IMO are:
1. Ulrik did really well that event to shrink the delta, given the circumstances.
2. Even 50hp can make a yuge difference when you're WOT so often. #deadhorse
There's tons of other variables, though. The tires, the type of track, recent changes to either car yada yada. But hey, this is bench-racing after-all!
My prediction based on how Ryan has operated in past events/tracks and if Hypermiata ends up with ~500rwhp and continues chassis/aero development for CoTA...... he'll turn a low 2:17 or high 2:16.
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02-18-2019, 12:41 PM
#1084
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The good news is that Road Atlanta is not as horsepower dependent as COTA and that's the next race on the schedule (May).
Flier129 (Marcus) knows that track pretty well. You will have friends in the paddock. We were all rooting for you.
Flier129 (Marcus) knows that track pretty well. You will have friends in the paddock. We were all rooting for you.
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02-18-2019, 12:56 PM
#1086
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Ulrik dyno'd 440 before loading up for COTA but wasn't on that map for most of the event, I think Tony mentioned 330-350? They turned up the wick for the last two sessions but he just couldn't get any clean laps but that's racin'. Always good seeing you guys out there, love the crowd reactions Hyper gets. 
To quote a friend during a conversation about the dude who protested you and even Ulrik's KG Works-style trunk spoiler - "That guy could suck the fun out of a *******..."
To quote a friend during a conversation about the dude who protested you and even Ulrik's KG Works-style trunk spoiler - "That guy could suck the fun out of a *******..."
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02-23-2019, 11:11 PM
#1089
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Sorry to bring up an old post, but I was hoping you could give a little more insight on clocking the LFX alternator. I'm trying to do this now and it is a bitch. You didn't mention removing the pulley, but I think it needs to be done to clock it. Can you please confirm if you removed the pulley and how you got the brown and white brush cover back on.
Thanks for any help!
Thanks for any help!
Alternator on the LFX had a bit of a clearance issue - the stud on the back contacts the subframe.
Solution we came up with was to clock the alternator. Four M4 bolts holding the front and rear together (remember to mark the studs position before clocking), then remove the plastic cover on the rear and finally remove the small plastic cover over the brushes in the center on the back:
pull the two halves apart, rotate the assembly 180° and drop them back together. You have to push the brushes in for the center shaft to slide all the way back in.
With the alternator clocked, the stud is nice and far away from the subframe:
Solution we came up with was to clock the alternator. Four M4 bolts holding the front and rear together (remember to mark the studs position before clocking), then remove the plastic cover on the rear and finally remove the small plastic cover over the brushes in the center on the back:
pull the two halves apart, rotate the assembly 180° and drop them back together. You have to push the brushes in for the center shaft to slide all the way back in.
With the alternator clocked, the stud is nice and far away from the subframe:
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02-24-2019, 02:07 AM
#1090
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Sorry to bring up an old post, but I was hoping you could give a little more insight on clocking the LFX alternator. I'm trying to do this now and it is a bitch. You didn't mention removing the pulley, but I think it needs to be done to clock it. Can you please confirm if you removed the pulley and how you got the brown and white brush cover back on.
Thanks for any help!
Thanks for any help!
Originally Posted by ThePass
Alternator on the LFX had a bit of a clearance issue - the stud on the back contacts the subframe.
Solution we came up with was to clock the alternator. Four M4 bolts holding the front and rear together (remember to mark the studs position before clocking), then remove the plastic cover on the rear and finally remove the small plastic cover over the brushes in the center on the back:
pull the two halves apart, rotate the assembly 180° and drop them back together. You have to push the brushes in for the center shaft to slide all the way back in.
With the alternator clocked, the stud is nice and far away from the subframe:
Solution we came up with was to clock the alternator. Four M4 bolts holding the front and rear together (remember to mark the studs position before clocking), then remove the plastic cover on the rear and finally remove the small plastic cover over the brushes in the center on the back:
pull the two halves apart, rotate the assembly 180° and drop them back together. You have to push the brushes in for the center shaft to slide all the way back in.
With the alternator clocked, the stud is nice and far away from the subframe:
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03-07-2019, 12:48 PM
#1094
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Perhaps! Though the Lyfe GTR is a tough act to follow. Love that car.
I just noticed an earlier post about Road Atlanta. I'm using our experience and data gained from COTA to guide the development plans this year, with the primary focus being a return to COTA in 2020 with significant updates. I've already jumped into a couple of those projects but some things will take time and there's always the matter of tuning and revising that follows any major changes, so for now I'm leaving the calendar clear for the next few months. Definite plans to be up and running strong for Miatas @ Laguna Seca and then GTA Finals @ Buttonwillow, but those are both later this year.
Super pumped for what we have in store.
I just noticed an earlier post about Road Atlanta. I'm using our experience and data gained from COTA to guide the development plans this year, with the primary focus being a return to COTA in 2020 with significant updates. I've already jumped into a couple of those projects but some things will take time and there's always the matter of tuning and revising that follows any major changes, so for now I'm leaving the calendar clear for the next few months. Definite plans to be up and running strong for Miatas @ Laguna Seca and then GTA Finals @ Buttonwillow, but those are both later this year.
Super pumped for what we have in store.
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03-13-2019, 04:27 PM
#1097
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Keep in mind this is using tefzel wire which can generally carry more current than lower quality stuff. Below are rough ratings for Tefzel /16 and /32 wire. Rating is max. continuous current @ wire's max rated temperature (150°C / 300°F) & good for up to ~15 ft.
24ga 5.1A
22ga 6.3A
20ga 8.9A
18ga 11.4A
16ga 13.9A
14ga 17.7A
12ga 24.0A
10ga 32.9A
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03-13-2019, 05:08 PM
#1098
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https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
Keep in mind this is using tefzel wire which can generally carry more current than lower quality stuff. Below are rough ratings for Tefzel /16 and /32 wire. Rating is max. continuous current @ wire's max rated temperature (150°C / 300°F) & good for up to ~15 ft.
24ga 5.1A
22ga 6.3A
20ga 8.9A
18ga 11.4A
16ga 13.9A
14ga 17.7A
12ga 24.0A
10ga 32.9A
Keep in mind this is using tefzel wire which can generally carry more current than lower quality stuff. Below are rough ratings for Tefzel /16 and /32 wire. Rating is max. continuous current @ wire's max rated temperature (150°C / 300°F) & good for up to ~15 ft.
24ga 5.1A
22ga 6.3A
20ga 8.9A
18ga 11.4A
16ga 13.9A
14ga 17.7A
12ga 24.0A
10ga 32.9A
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0
05-01-2019, 02:48 PM
#1099
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The journey of this car has been really inspiring to follow.
Can you comment now on any oiling issues you have experienced with the LFX now that you have a few years of using this engine? The OEM oil pan has virtually no baffling, how is it that this engine can survive like this? Did you add baffling to the pan yourself? Do you use an accusump?
Thanks for sharing.
Can you comment now on any oiling issues you have experienced with the LFX now that you have a few years of using this engine? The OEM oil pan has virtually no baffling, how is it that this engine can survive like this? Did you add baffling to the pan yourself? Do you use an accusump?
Thanks for sharing.
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