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Yes, the fuel condenses on the cold surfaces. Enrichment correction is intended for that. Noting VE, ASE, and WUE should be tuned first.
MAXX slow air follower controls the ethrottle at idle. I found it hard to tune because it is very sensitive and slow compared to ignition timing, and actual ethrottle control is tricky at such low values. Getting the initial duty table dialed is important though.
Yo, thanks for the heads up Watson. I went through my settings yesterday and realized I've only got TPS-based AE active currently. Derp. I'm getting zero enrichment at idle tip in so I assume I'm gonna have to set up a MAP-based AE table to minimally dump some extra fuel during tip in when cold. I can see there's no enrichment happening during that scenario currently. I've got very similar enrichment correction values to what you showed above, so I'll wait to mess with that until I set up a MAP-based table.
Idle controls. Wow. I never saw the slow air settings because I had idle in open loop and never switched to closed to see those settings. I guess my throttle control has just been sitting on the minimum position I specified at idle and using ignition timing to hit the target. Must've got lucky because it seems to hold idle near-flawlessly. I'll play around with closed loop/slow air this week. Thanks for the input!
Swapped out my 4.1 LSD with a 3.7 yesterday. I put a down payment in with Prestige Spares a month or so ago to reserve the next 3.7 they received, but the timeline kept getting dragged out and I wanted to have the thing in the car by mid-June before starting the 8HP swap. Ended up calling it off and ordered another one from a dismantler on eBay UK. Cost was $800 all in and it took a week or so to arrive. The outward appearance was pretty ugly. Lots of surface rust, so I took a roloc disc to it for a bit and resprayed the body with black rust reformer. Finished it off by painting the cover red with the last of my engine paint from the OG 2.5.
Did the swap at work yesterday morning and pulled out the last of my interior trunk panels and some other wiring that wasn't being used back there. Upon pulling the rear right wheel off to do the swap, I found I had a nail in my tire, so I plugged that too. Second one in two months, nice.
Mandatory "+5 horsepower" joke here.
Also fired up the car with the muffler off to see how unbearably loud it was. I've smacked my exhaust on the ground a couple times now (once by going into the dirt at the first track day with the turbo, then again 50/50-ing a curb at BW last month), and it's got a couple dents in it. Additionally, I'm gonna have to get the midpipe modified a bit to fit around the 8HP once it goes in, and I'm thinking I can get away with running a smaller, lighter muffler that won't try to swing the exhaust around as much. Just kicking ideas around but having a low profile center-exit muffler would be pretty cool if the exhaust has to get repaired/modified anyway.
First 3.7 thoughts/feedback based on a 30-minute drive home. Holy hell, it's so much more pleasant to drive on the street. I didn't even get the car on the freeway but the right hand is noticeably less busy with the shifter, and there's no more awkward "should I be in first or second gear?" moments while driving though parking lots.
That's great to hear about the 3.7... looking forward to hearing more as you get more miles on it. I really need to get off my *** and order up a gearset. Curious if you looked into the cost of ordering a set from Mazda Motorsports and using an aftermarket LSD as opposed to ordering a complete diff from UK?
More miles have only made me happier with the thing. Took it up to the mountains yesterday afternoon. 3,100rpm at 70mph on the freeway and way fewer gear changes while driving in the twisties. I’ll wait until buttonwillow in two weeks to add any more commentary but I feel like it’s gonna be a huge improvement on track.
I didn’t add up the costs of a R&P + aftermarket LSD at any point just because it wasn’t in the budget (8 speed swap is taking priority lol). Spitball math says it would be between 2x and 3x what the used OEM one cost me after labor? I don’t think the OEM unit has become a limiting factor for me even at the car’s current power level, so the direction I went felt like a no-brainer.
I’m sure driving a car with an OSG might make me say otherwise, but I’m gonna ignore thoughts like that for now haha.
On another positive note, it looks like the new ECU/tune are race-ready. Drove it in anger yesterday, datalogged and tweaked a couple things and she’s hitting all her targets as desired. The base PID settings for the DBW TB were causing a very intermittent overshoot and oscillation during quick throttle change events, but I wasn’t able to get the car to do it all afternoon after lowering I and adding a small amount of D. Throttle still hits its target fast as shown in the logs.
NASA Buttonwillow in two weeks should be a party. Crossover event with NorCal means our class will probably be pretty stacked. No big plans until then aside from maybe running powers and grounds for the 8HP and BMW shifter, in preparation of the big swap.
I put a down payment in with Prestige Spares a month or so ago to reserve the next 3.7 they received, but the timeline kept getting dragged out and I wanted to have the thing in the car by mid-June before starting the 8HP swap. Ended up calling it off and ordered another one from a dismantler on eBay UK. Cost was $800 all in and it took a week or so to arrive.
Good to see Prestige Spares hasn't changed since I tried to buy something from them over 3 years ago.
Good to see Prestige Spares hasn't changed since I tried to buy something from them over 3 years ago.
Maybe I'm too lenient but I'm still gonna give 'em the benefit of the doubt. They were good with the transmission and other two diffs I purchased from them before.
Originally Posted by sixshooter
The answer is always to give it a little more D
I've been waiting two days for this to be said. Thank you