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Old 08-11-2008, 01:03 AM   #21
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I wish someone would do that to my engine bay for me.
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Old 08-11-2008, 09:20 AM   #22
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Default Heat shield on the brake master?

Nice build!

What are you using to heat shield the brake master?
It looks interesting...

Thanks,
Jim
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Old 08-11-2008, 11:12 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
Is that lower radiator hose replacement a custom piece?
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Originally Posted by jbresee View Post
Nice build!

What are you using to heat shield the brake master?
It looks interesting...

Thanks,
Jim
It's a heat shield blanket that can be purchased from summit racing.
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Old 08-11-2008, 11:17 AM   #24
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engine bay is definitely nice, definitely something I'd pay somebody to do on my car
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Old 08-11-2008, 11:28 AM   #25
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Thanks for all of the compliments. The most aggravating step was degreasing the engine bay followed by sanding.
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Old 08-17-2008, 10:22 PM   #26
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I'll do engine bay cleanup/work for anyone! just fly me away from charlotte.... haha!
Hopefully Nick and I will have this beast buttoned up next weekend. Stay tuned for a small update tonight from Nick. We worked rather slow yet hard today. Head is on the new motor, and almost ready to drop back into the car.
-Brad
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Old 08-18-2008, 02:07 AM   #27
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Like Brad said, not much done this week but should be completed in two weeks TOPS.

Gaskets:


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Drilling the oil pan with it off is cake compared to it in the car:


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Finally have pictures of the block before putting on my original head:


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Assembled:

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Old 08-18-2008, 02:16 AM   #28
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Wanted to double check on the correct ARP head stud torque measurements? We used 85 pounds since we used a 30 weight (no moly oil).

Wanted to ask how would you guys break in the motor, NA or FI? It would be warmed up fully and be given full accel/decel in the first 3 gears for roughly 20 miles. Dino oil would then be changed shortly after in favor for full synthetic.

Last edited by JDMAflac; 08-18-2008 at 11:43 AM.
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Old 08-18-2008, 09:48 AM   #29
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Nice build up. Great to see all the pics! Thanks.
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Old 08-19-2008, 02:01 PM   #30
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NP, anyone have an insight on the previous question? If broken in FI, it will be the stock greddy configuration and boost settings. (vortec, retard timing, etc..)
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Old 08-19-2008, 02:24 PM   #31
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get it up to speed slowly in gear, then let go of the gas (still in gear) and let it pull vacuum. do that a few times in 2nd and 3rd and it's broken in. all you need to do is make sure the rings are set well in their hone. honestly I believe, if you idle the engine it should go to go.
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Old 08-20-2008, 11:40 AM   #32
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^
Okay. Break it in naturally aspirated than.
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Old 08-20-2008, 11:52 AM   #33
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my machinist said the same as brain. However he said to use shitty dino oil for the first 100 miles or so to encourage a little bearing wear-in. He thinks the synth is too slick for bearings.

He also said to expect 10-20% gain in output on the dyno after a few thousand miles when the motor loosens up. I just picked up a G8 rental with 8 miles on it (this happens all the time so I make sure to do a proper break in because cars have a soul). It pulled significantly harder after 2 3-hour highway cruises in my butt-dyno 0-60. The motor didn't want to spin like it did after a few hundred miles.
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Old 08-20-2008, 12:37 PM   #34
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I previously got my information from one of the threads here and read more about it from this link:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Thanks for the advice everyone.
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Old 09-08-2008, 06:25 PM   #35
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Two weeks flew by and we've been busy and caught up in our daily lives that this project was put on hold but it's back with a few important updates. I'll let the pictures do the work.


Transmission needed cleaning badly
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Brake/parts cleaner and wire brush
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Engine on stand with turbo components and mocked up 2.5 downpipe thats getting redone thanks to Brad!
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One of the most important accomplishments
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The motor should be up and running ::crossfingers:: this weekend if weather permits. Motor will be broken in NA and then turboed after.

Check list of things left to do:
-driveshaft
-radiator/fans
-extend wiring
-fluids/plugs
-body panels
...and other knick knacks




Question: I relooped my powersteering lines but could someone tell me where they sourced these red plugs(off steering rack) or another option to enclose both holes?
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Old 09-08-2008, 06:27 PM   #36
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A HUGE HUGE thanks goes to Brad *na3turbo* for helping me with this swap


Thanks to Ben who also came over this week to lend a hand.
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Old 09-08-2008, 08:02 PM   #37
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just put a bolt in those holes with a washer. they don't need to keep any pressure or seal in any oil, you just lube the rack a little and the bolts are there to keep dust/dirt out.

P.S. don't loop the lines, take it apart while you have easy access and cut off the seal inside.
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Old 09-08-2008, 08:17 PM   #38
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Looks great. Super jealous..

Videos when broken in and turbo'd!
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Old 09-08-2008, 10:42 PM   #39
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Dude please keep up the progress, very nice indeed...
My engine bay is FILTHY & overcrowded....once I have things sorted out I hope I'll get it looking like this...
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Old 09-09-2008, 04:16 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
just put a bolt in those holes with a washer. they don't need to keep any pressure or seal in any oil, you just lube the rack a little and the bolts are there to keep dust/dirt out.

P.S. don't loop the lines, take it apart while you have easy access and cut off the seal inside.
X2
its pretty easy to take the rack apart and cut/beat out the inner seal, then if you look on my build thread i just cut the lines and crimped the small ones. for the biggers ones i but a rubber cap on with a zip tie

gl on the build
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