Nick's Build/Installation Thread - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Build Threads Building a motor? Post the progress here.

Nick's Build/Installation Thread

Old 08-11-2008, 01:03 AM
  #21  
Elite Member
iTrader: (30)
 
levnubhin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Va Beach
Posts: 7,292
Total Cats: 2
Default

I wish someone would do that to my engine bay for me.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
levnubhin is offline  
Old 08-11-2008, 09:20 AM
  #22  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Burlington, VT
Posts: 425
Total Cats: 1
Default Heat shield on the brake master?

Nice build!

What are you using to heat shield the brake master?
It looks interesting...

Thanks,
Jim
jbresee is offline  
Old 08-11-2008, 11:12 AM
  #23  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 466
Total Cats: 0
Default

Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
Is that lower radiator hose replacement a custom piece?
Powdercoated

Originally Posted by jbresee View Post
Nice build!

What are you using to heat shield the brake master?
It looks interesting...

Thanks,
Jim
It's a heat shield blanket that can be purchased from summit racing.
JDMAflac is offline  
Old 08-11-2008, 11:17 AM
  #24  
Elite Member
iTrader: (5)
 
m2cupcar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 7,432
Total Cats: 331
Default

engine bay is definitely nice, definitely something I'd pay somebody to do on my car
m2cupcar is offline  
Old 08-11-2008, 11:28 AM
  #25  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 466
Total Cats: 0
Default

Thanks for all of the compliments. The most aggravating step was degreasing the engine bay followed by sanding.
JDMAflac is offline  
Old 08-17-2008, 10:22 PM
  #26  
Newb
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 20
Total Cats: 0
Default

I'll do engine bay cleanup/work for anyone! just fly me away from charlotte.... haha!
Hopefully Nick and I will have this beast buttoned up next weekend. Stay tuned for a small update tonight from Nick. We worked rather slow yet hard today. Head is on the new motor, and almost ready to drop back into the car.
-Brad
na3turbo is offline  
Old 08-18-2008, 02:07 AM
  #27  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 466
Total Cats: 0
Default

Like Brad said, not much done this week but should be completed in two weeks TOPS.

Gaskets:


Name:  IMG_2317.jpg
Views: 22
Size:  113.7 KB

Drilling the oil pan with it off is cake compared to it in the car:


Name:  IMG_2316.jpg
Views: 18
Size:  47.5 KB
Name:  IMG_2318.jpg
Views: 13
Size:  61.0 KB

Finally have pictures of the block before putting on my original head:


Name:  IMG_2319.jpg
Views: 21
Size:  114.9 KB
Name:  IMG_2320.jpg
Views: 13
Size:  54.1 KB
Name:  IMG_2321.jpg
Views: 23
Size:  62.4 KB

Assembled:

Name:  IMG_2325.jpg
Views: 14
Size:  98.5 KB
JDMAflac is offline  
Old 08-18-2008, 02:16 AM
  #28  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 466
Total Cats: 0
Default

Wanted to double check on the correct ARP head stud torque measurements? We used 85 pounds since we used a 30 weight (no moly oil).

Wanted to ask how would you guys break in the motor, NA or FI? It would be warmed up fully and be given full accel/decel in the first 3 gears for roughly 20 miles. Dino oil would then be changed shortly after in favor for full synthetic.

Last edited by JDMAflac; 08-18-2008 at 11:43 AM.
JDMAflac is offline  
Old 08-18-2008, 09:48 AM
  #29  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 670
Total Cats: 18
Default

Nice build up. Great to see all the pics! Thanks.
oilstain is offline  
Old 08-19-2008, 02:01 PM
  #30  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 466
Total Cats: 0
Default

NP, anyone have an insight on the previous question? If broken in FI, it will be the stock greddy configuration and boost settings. (vortec, retard timing, etc..)
JDMAflac is offline  
Old 08-19-2008, 02:24 PM
  #31  
Boost Czar
iTrader: (61)
 
Braineack's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 75,288
Total Cats: 2,154
Default

get it up to speed slowly in gear, then let go of the gas (still in gear) and let it pull vacuum. do that a few times in 2nd and 3rd and it's broken in. all you need to do is make sure the rings are set well in their hone. honestly I believe, if you idle the engine it should go to go.
Braineack is offline  
Old 08-20-2008, 11:40 AM
  #32  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 466
Total Cats: 0
Default

^
Okay. Break it in naturally aspirated than.
JDMAflac is offline  
Old 08-20-2008, 11:52 AM
  #33  
Tour de Franzia
iTrader: (6)
 
hustler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Republic of Dallas
Posts: 29,085
Total Cats: 367
Default

my machinist said the same as brain. However he said to use shitty dino oil for the first 100 miles or so to encourage a little bearing wear-in. He thinks the synth is too slick for bearings.

He also said to expect 10-20% gain in output on the dyno after a few thousand miles when the motor loosens up. I just picked up a G8 rental with 8 miles on it (this happens all the time so I make sure to do a proper break in because cars have a soul). It pulled significantly harder after 2 3-hour highway cruises in my butt-dyno 0-60. The motor didn't want to spin like it did after a few hundred miles.
hustler is offline  
Old 08-20-2008, 12:37 PM
  #34  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 466
Total Cats: 0
Default

I previously got my information from one of the threads here and read more about it from this link:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Thanks for the advice everyone.
JDMAflac is offline  
Old 09-08-2008, 06:25 PM
  #35  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 466
Total Cats: 0
Default

Two weeks flew by and we've been busy and caught up in our daily lives that this project was put on hold but it's back with a few important updates. I'll let the pictures do the work.


Transmission needed cleaning badly
Name:  IMG_2348.jpg
Views: 19
Size:  169.5 KB
Name:  IMG_2349.jpg
Views: 14
Size:  181.9 KB

Brake/parts cleaner and wire brush
Name:  IMG_2351.jpg
Views: 12
Size:  185.8 KB

Engine on stand with turbo components and mocked up 2.5 downpipe thats getting redone thanks to Brad!
Name:  IMG_2345.jpg
Views: 13
Size:  104.4 KB
Name:  IMG_2346.jpg
Views: 15
Size:  89.5 KB
Name:  IMG_2347.jpg
Views: 14
Size:  85.7 KB

One of the most important accomplishments
Name:  IMG_2356.jpg
Views: 15
Size:  140.5 KB
Name:  IMG_2357.jpg
Views: 20
Size:  146.6 KB

The motor should be up and running ::crossfingers:: this weekend if weather permits. Motor will be broken in NA and then turboed after.

Check list of things left to do:
-driveshaft
-radiator/fans
-extend wiring
-fluids/plugs
-body panels
...and other knick knacks




Question: I relooped my powersteering lines but could someone tell me where they sourced these red plugs(off steering rack) or another option to enclose both holes?
Name:  OTC_steering_rack.jpg
Views: 19
Size:  90.1 KB
JDMAflac is offline  
Old 09-08-2008, 06:27 PM
  #36  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 466
Total Cats: 0
Default

A HUGE HUGE thanks goes to Brad *na3turbo* for helping me with this swap


Thanks to Ben who also came over this week to lend a hand.
JDMAflac is offline  
Old 09-08-2008, 08:02 PM
  #37  
Cpt. Slow
iTrader: (25)
 
curly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Oregon City, OR
Posts: 12,501
Total Cats: 598
Default

just put a bolt in those holes with a washer. they don't need to keep any pressure or seal in any oil, you just lube the rack a little and the bolts are there to keep dust/dirt out.

P.S. don't loop the lines, take it apart while you have easy access and cut off the seal inside.
curly is offline  
Old 09-08-2008, 08:17 PM
  #38  
Elite Member
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Taos, New mexico
Posts: 5,713
Total Cats: 272
Default

Looks great. Super jealous..

Videos when broken in and turbo'd!
Fireindc is offline  
Old 09-08-2008, 10:42 PM
  #39  
Elite Member
iTrader: (17)
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NY
Posts: 1,614
Total Cats: 2
Default

Dude please keep up the progress, very nice indeed...
My engine bay is FILTHY & overcrowded....once I have things sorted out I hope I'll get it looking like this...
TonyV is offline  
Old 09-09-2008, 04:16 PM
  #40  
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 65
Total Cats: 0
Default

Originally Posted by curly View Post
just put a bolt in those holes with a washer. they don't need to keep any pressure or seal in any oil, you just lube the rack a little and the bolts are there to keep dust/dirt out.

P.S. don't loop the lines, take it apart while you have easy access and cut off the seal inside.
X2
its pretty easy to take the rack apart and cut/beat out the inner seal, then if you look on my build thread i just cut the lines and crimped the small ones. for the biggers ones i but a rubber cap on with a zip tie

gl on the build
climb_on is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Nick's Build/Installation Thread


Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

© 2018 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.