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so unfortunately my tuning laptop is having some critical errors that dont allow me to update to the latest software and open the file for you. I'm still working through the bugs to try and get it fixed, but you should be able to go to the downloads page on HPtuners here (https://www.hptuners.com/downloads/) and download the software, install, then view the file attached.
Forgot to install the knock sensor, so the intake manifold has to come off.
Also, I'm having the darndest time bleeding the clutch. It's supposed to auto bleed when you press the clutch in, but it's just not building pressure. I'm going to try applying vacuum next.
Re the clutch, if you haven't already, try just pumping the pedal over and over somewhat vigorously with the nipple open for a good few minutes.... works for me on a standard miata clutch system that had been full of air.
Re the clutch, if you haven't already, try just pumping the pedal over and over somewhat vigorously with the nipple open for a good few minutes.... works for me on a standard miata clutch system that had been full of air.
The tricky part is there is no nipple on this system. The slave is internal in the trans, and is "self-bleeding". If I have to do this again, I'd first fill the slave and line on the bench before installing. Also, some people tap the slave and add a remote bleeder, which would be a huge help.
If this is a GM slave you're referring to, I wouldn't waste any more time and just pull it for a bleeder valve. I've bled a few and over heard many curse words from across the shop from techs bleeding GM slaves. A lot of the aftermarket ones already have the bleeder line installed. You can even route it up to the engine bay and never have to crawl under the car to bleed it again.
If this is a GM slave you're referring to, I wouldn't waste any more time and just pull it for a bleeder valve. I've bled a few and over heard many curse words from across the shop from techs bleeding GM slaves. A lot of the aftermarket ones already have the bleeder line installed. You can even route it up to the engine bay and never have to crawl under the car to bleed it again.
That is the last thing I want to do. It was a major pain to connect the engine and transmission on the floor. And it's so close to being ready!
So close, yet so far. The clutch built pressure, then started dumping brake fluid all over my garage floor. We pulled the engine and found that although I ordered a clutch slave for a 2.4, I received one for a 2.0. Womp womp. Apparently that explains the bleeding issues as well as the part failure. They aren't interchangeable.
Feeling empty
Curly - for a bleeder, does it need to be welded on, or can it just be tapped in? Is there a super reliable easy button? I'd hate to add something that could fail in an inconvenient spot just to gain a little convenience in the bleed process.
This is what the slave looks like:
I’d research aftermarket solutions with a good rep. They have built in bleeders, swivel fittings, -3 AN lines for easy replacement, etc. I might have a -3 dry break floating around my tool box you could try too. Those are really nice.
No build is ever finished, but this feels so much more done than not done at this point I just want to take a moment to enjoy it. I'm only running 5 psi of boost right now, but my butt dyno says it's got more power than my previous set up (MK turbo at 14psi). The two screenshots below are pulls from 3500 and 2500 RPM respectively. Can you tell which color is MAP and which is TPS? No, because boost is instant.
I'm losing spark in some spots so I'm getting some new coils, and the tune doesn't have enough time on it to even smooth out the VE table. I'm getting knock in a bunch of places and the internet says these engines throw falls knock all the time, but even so I'm running a super conservative spark map. I also think I might be burning some oil, so I'm not sure what that's about. Once a get a couple weeks of smoothing out all the rough spots I'll take it for a dyno tune and really get it dialed in. I've got a flex fuel sensor installed, but I'll hold off on E85 until I really get this tune locked in.
I've got the engine bay tidied up pretty well. I built a two-layer heat shield for the turbo because there are fuel lines right beside it. I went with the Cappuccino washer bottle to make space, but generally it doesn't seem to take up more space than a turbo BP.
For gauges, I went with a tablet setup with USB OTG. The tac, speedo and fuel gauge are on the main dash, and one day I may do a real oil pressure gauge and working engine temp on the main dashboard. I'm also fairly stoked about the ECU mounting. That wasn't planned, but it fit so nicely I just had to go with it. I'll be running a small amp in the glovebox powering the door speakers, with audio supplied by the tablet.
Aaaand, I just think it looks awesome from the back. But that's just me.
Spent some time at the dyno today. I couldn't figure out how to get it to hold boost to the redline, so I didn't put down the kind of power I was looking for, but I was able to tune find some gains across the full range. When I got home, I found that the EBC valve had come unplugged
Still, 275 ft-lbs at the wheels at 3k feels soooooo nice.
Well that was short lived. I had a couple days of sweet power. It really felt amazing once the boost was turned up. The as I was dialing boost control I overboosted hitting 15psi at 3100 RPM. Now I'm one piece short of a full piston.
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