I drove that DD of yours yesterday. AC blasting so cold that my nipples could cut glass :party:

Budget will not cover new shirts :rofl:

Glad you let this one out of the bag. I think your turbo was literally the ONLY EFR that I have not shipped directly to Abe at Artech.

BTW Borg is giving me a real run-around with your EBC. I should forward you the emails, embarrassing really. Telling me "We've already shipped the replacement part to your customer." That would be great, if at any point they asked me for my customers address... :facepalm:

At any rate - If I don't hear something tomorrow I'll buy you a new EBC :makeout:

Thanks for the update! :bigtu: Also, thanks for the offer but like I said, I'm not in a mad rush. No manifold until July so EBC does not do me much good before then.

It uses the inconel valves or it gets the Rotrex again!!

Why does everyone think I hate the Rotrex? Its another tool in the tool box and it performs its function quite well for what it is. Remember that i purchased my kit new and I purchased it for a reason. My problem was never with the Rotrex hardware itself, my problem was with Kraftwerks.

I will admit I was actually looking forward to having an open forum to work over the guy from Kraftwerks. There was blood in the water and I started getting excited again :laugh: I think I got warned/censord on m.net and I got a temp ban on cr the last time I got into this with one of their guys. I just wish the thread here had been around a little longer but I understand that no real good could have possibly come from it.

I bet Scott deleted it, he's such a party pooper :p

I like my Rotrex. I only make the joke because of historical mt.net opinions of it, and the fact that I own one entitles me to make fun of it however I wish :)

Mild or stainless?

Woo! Stainless? What did you use on your NB? I figured I can mooch off your parts list as everything from the midpipe back should be the same :)

I vote stainless for resistance to elements and for shinies!

G I cannot wait for you to make this into a thrust buster and then give me rides. Maybe trade drives for a session. This will involve travel on someones' part (probably mine).

Sure, come on down for Miatas@MRLS this year. Hopefully I'll actually have it running by then :bang:

I'm not super happy with the "traditional" turbo coolant feed line from the front of the engine. I'm blocking the old thermostat neck port with a freeze plug so i cant use it anyway. My M-Tuned reroute has a 1/8" NPT port but its currently occupied by the temp sender for my VEI temp gauge, so that's out. I need to see if I can use one of the ports on the back of the head for coolant source and I'll be a happy camper.

That, or relocate the temp sender. Humm... drill, baby, drill?

So what is the general thoughts from the collective on removing the factory oil preheater/cooler?

I'm already removing the front neck and the 64mm throttle body has no provision for coolant. I don't want to loop a coolant line all the way around the front of the engine to feed the turbo so I'm running out of reasons to keep the factory preheater/cooler chingadera. Unless someone tells me otherwise I'll probably continue down this path.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1401202328

The port in the above pic looks like it has enough meat to tap for an 1/8NPT and that will be perfect for either the sensor or to use as a coolant source. That will give me 2x 1/8NPT ports to work with (including the one on the M-Tuned reroute neck) so fitting a -6 to 1/8NPT should be cake.

Again, I'm looking for someone to give me a reason not to do this. :party:

do you has oil cooler? if you do, then you'll probably be fine.
just be more careful when warming the car up, cause it will take longer without the oem cooler

I currently haz no oil cooler. I've been waiting for Andrew to put the Mocal Oil Cooler Kit Of The Gods up for sale on his website, but its not something I'm going to run out and purchase immediately.

Super slower warmup is exactly what I'm worried about. I've added a bung to the oil pan for a sender so I'll actually know what the oil temp is, its that whole waiting and patience thing that screws me in the end. Turbo should act as an oil preheater, right?

On NAs, there's a water line on the bottom of the intake manifold, going to the idle valve (which you don't have) and then to the throttle body (which you do have).

Could you steal water from there? I believe on an NB, the routing is:

Back of head -> oil/water cooler -> throttle body -> front water neck -> mixing manifold.

I'm a fan of flipping the mixing manifold, pulling the 1/4" hard line and drilling and tapping there for the turbo water return.

Then you could steal the water for feeding it after the throttle body, or before.

on nb's there is no such nonsense (IM sourced water that is)

*edit: I mean its probably not a huge deal, since early na's didn't even have a cooler, but I'd be real careful when tampering with stuff that directly relates to your engine's long tearm health and wear

I have a VVT motor in my garage, I can take pictures of the routing I mentioned above.

There is no idle valve on the intake manifold, but there is a rear water feed, oil/water cooler, throttle body water lines, and a mixing manifold barb.

Oh I know exactly what its supposed to do:
but also:
Because the front housing has that weird T in it.

But as I stated previously, I'm eliminating like 1/2 of those components. I'm just trying to figure out if its worth deleting the rest of those components thus removing that system all together.

New setup would be:
That's like eleventybajillion less failure points. I'm just trying to figure out if the juice (less fail) is worth the squeeze (no more oil preheater/cooler.)

We all know the reroute is a hack on top of a hack, so I'm just trying to figure out how to clean things up without compromising the system.

I was VERY tempted to do exactly what you're thinking of, but didn't because street car.

Well you're not helping :giggle: Probably because I feel we suffer from the same disease.

Honestly, if this was BECAUSERACECAR I wouldn't think twice about it. But its not, so I will continue to worry and overthink things. I'll probably come up with some solution that is illogical, adds more failure points and is marginal at best. This is usually how my troubleshooting process works. :bang:

Shit. I just re-read Ari/99mx5's build thread. It looks like we have the same turbo and very nearly the same manifold.

Now I have fear.

I need to figure out how to adapt my Turbosmart IWG-75 to the EFR so I can not die. I'm about 98% sure its the same exact internals on all of Turbosmart's actuators, they probably just change the mounting brackets and rod lengths for the specific fitments. I know TS has an adjustable with specific fitment for the B1 frame EFR but I'd rather not buy a whole another $200+ actuator when all I need is the stupid bracket. PM'd Fab to see if he can get me just the mounting bracket.

Oh, also need to order a 5psi spring for said actuator. Plus a much, much larger intercooler... :facepalm:

If there is any spare money you'd like to further flush down the toilet. After buying the flying Miata silicone intercooler hoses and lower radiator hoses($$$) it is soooo worth the money for how easy and clean looking it is. One of the better purchases you assholes made me make.

Excellent idea however the way I have this all laid out in my head, the manifold should require zero modification to my coolant system routing (this is the ARTech magic) so I can continue to use the fancy Gates Blue silicone lower radiator hose that's on the car now. If I don't jack with anything between the radiator and the water pump inlet then I don't have to buy the FM lower hose.

I already have all the FM silicone from the turbo to the throttle body but I'm about 95% sure I can't use the turbo to intercooler section. The turbo is just too long for it to fit as far as I can tell. The nice part about the NB is the hole behind the headlight that allows me to use the MSM routing like I did with the Rotrex. That or I can abuse Gesso's time and talents with the tig and fabricate some charge pipes. If the turbo to intercooler tube is still around by the time the manifold gets here I'll test fit it, but I'm not going to hold my breath.

Oh! I also now have in my possession a Trackspeed Engineering NB Radiator. My current Koyo radiator will most likely find a new home in one of Gesso's projects :party:

Go G go!

Here is the EFR wastegate actuator chart:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1401377143

I currently have the "MOSTOFIT" actuator as that's what ships with the B1 frame (I think anyway) and the listed "cracking pressure" @ 3mm of preload is more boost than I want to deal with on a regular basis. New actuator definitely needs to happen. I'm hoping the "SOMEOFIT" actuator or the Turbosmart IWG-75 will have enough throw to bypass enough exhaust to keep things under control at 155kpa.

My ultimate goal here is to make sure that the car isn't a deathmachine on wastegate pressure (so ≤ 200hp) and then use the Hi/Lo boost feature on my MS3-Basic to facilitate face melting stupidity. I'm not interested in 6 speeds/clutches/axles becoming consumables so I'm sure 190~200kpa will be ENOUGHOFIT to scare me half to death anyway. ;)

Dammit, is my cleverly edited image seriously not loading? :facepalm:

I am loving this thread. Just watching and learning so when (It´s only a matter of time) I blow my BP4W I man up and do something like this :drool:

I used mild on my NB because it's cheaper and I didn't know what I'd need so I ordered lots of extra bends. We could do stainless if you want, just more time consuming, but no biggie. I'll need to get a bigger argon bottle and a regulator "Y" if you want it back purged(something I should probably do anyways).

We could do that...

:party::party::party::party:

Awesome, thanks man! I haven't been under your NB in a while, I'm guessing you finally got that gianormous magnaflow in there and finalized the routing around the diff? Get me the parts list and I'm happy to cover materials, that includes electrodes and gas ;)

I think it's a Koyo 37? I'm almost positive its not the 55. I think i've even got the GM hose for you if you want to do a reroue. I'm pretty sure you still have the spacer and KIA water neck sitting on your workbench someplace.

Do you think the bracket is to far or too close to the waste gate?

looking at
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1401559002
and
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1401559002
it seems like it would be really easy to make this work.

The muffler is under the car yes, but there's no piping connected to it yet. Just haven't had the time with the other project and work. :(

If you stopped going on vacation all the time, you'd have more done with your projects! :laugh: I found your lisls exhaust hanger tool in my toolbox last night, remind me to bring that back up to SC next time I'm there.

Good show on the dimensions. The difference is that my Turbosmart IWG-75 is for a Protegé or some nonsense and the rod length is 140mm. The thread sizes are also different. I believe the EFR may be metric and the IWG-75 is SAE? Either that or they are just different shaft diameters, I forgot to measure.

I disassembled the MOSTOFIT actuator and mounting bracket last night and discovered the mounting bolt hole spacing is almost a match. The bolt spacing on the IWG-75 is about 1/16" wider than the BW. My thoughts now are that I can drill another pair of holes in the BW mounting bracket 90º off from the factory ones and the Turbosmart actuator should bolt right up. As for the pushrod, it should be relatively simple to build some sort of adapter to go from the one size to the other.

:idea: This just might work!

Related: I ordered the 5lb spring for the IWG-75 because I'm a giant wuss :laugh:

If you figure out what modifications need to be made I'll see if I can make something for you. No response from TS on the bracket itself. I have the feeling they aren't interested in selling that piece alone.

I'll figure something out, just didn't have time to play with it this weekend. I spent 10 of my 48 weekend hours driving, and another 4 hours drinking beer in 105º weather, like a boss.

I found these on my phone, thought you guys might enjoy :rofl:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1403125808
That's right, a 1" wood bit

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1403125808
Take her slow...

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1403125808
Bung in situ

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1403125808
Backside

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1403125858
Gesso with tig

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1403125858
His skills with a tig are obviously better than my skills with a camera

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1403125858
Ta-daa!

Summit Racing® Weld-In Bung 1/2"NPT - SUM-220073
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...20072_w_ml.jpg

That is a tidy alternative I like it props given

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1403199758

Earlier this week I spoke to the machine shop that was going to do the cuttin' on my block. I had contacted them last year and they had no problem doing the work, but now it turns out they are "at least 3 months backed up at this point." I know these guys well... they do great work but 3 months is a minimum and it would be a miracle if they delivered in that timeframe.

Ok, so that's not good news. FUCK! :facepalm:

If I had another local shop I trusted I'd go that route, but the key word in that sentence is "trust." There are other shops out here but I wouldn't trust them to change my oil. I've got a message in to Andrew@TrackSpeed to find out what the leadtime is for a shortblock.

The point of this exercise was to buy the forged goodies over time and built the shortblock myself and save on the assembly. I've got damn near $1000 invested in hardware alone and I don't have the cheddar in my BECAUSERACECAR support fund to re-spend that. I guess I can sell the rods/pistons/bearings/etc and make up 80~90% seeing as its all NIB, plus make up some cash selling my FM2 2560 stuff? I dunno, I'll look into it.

:vash:

What machining is holding you up? Boring the block for larger pistons?

Seems like you could ask around for other trusted shops and drive it someplace, then continue with your plan to assemble your own block.

Yep. Polishing the crank, bore & hone, and probably super minor deck on the block to prep for MLS headgasket. Maybe setting the ring gaps if I decide not to buy the $50 ring file thing.

I don't mind driving somewhere to drop off the block, but again, I'm basically going to be forced to trust some shop I don't know based on someone elses word. There are a bunch of Spec Miata shops in the area who have experience with BPs, but I'm not paying $750 for what should be $250-$350 worth of machine work, simply because they put "Spec Miata" on their business card. :rofl:

I'll poke some of the local guys and see what they say.

I dunno if the guy I use is just so fast or he's not that busy (looks busy tho) but I've never gotten anything more than about 2 weeks for wait time. Ever. On anything.

All these posts I see of you guys waiting 3-4-9 months just blow my mind.

You've built like, eleventybillion engines. Who's your shop? I'll shoot you a PM when I get around to it :party:

Awwww yissssss!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1403398923

• 70k/mi 6 Speed from 2004 Miata
• MiataRoadster Short Shift Kit
• Amsoil MTG 75w-90

Do you have a way to get it here tomorrow?

Now there's about the best trans setup you can get on a budget these days

If it comes down to it, I can strap it to the tire trailer. :brain:

Absolute truth. There are other options, but I prefer something that works. I don't plan on running ALLOFIT on the EFR to the point where transmissions become consumable, so this should do me just fine for quite some time.

I also spent about 2~3 hours this afternoon adding Rattle Trap to the insides of the doors on the NB. I probably covered 1/2 the internal surface of the outside skin and then a bunch of little random patches to the inside surface under the door cards. I probably added 3-5lbs overall to the weight of the car so that ain't no big deal. Best 3-5lbs EVER! Now when I shut the door it gives a nice thud or thunk rather than a tinny clang like its always done in the past. No pics, because my hands were sticky. Proof will be in the pudding when I drive it up to SC tomorrow.

My wife caught me standing in the driveway opening and closing the door to my car and grinning like an idiot. She eventually sighed and walked away because she knows better than to ask questions at this point, bless her heart :rofl:

Also: Engine and trans swap tomorrow! :party:

The "other" BP4W and above 6 speed are going in and my rattly ass stock motor is coming out. Gesso and I have pulled various things in and out of Miata engine bays often enough that this "should" be cake. I'm bringing along my fancy 70D engine mounts so I can see how bad they actually are. If its too much, I'm sure they'll find a home in Gesso's project. My Energy Suspension Poly Diff bushings are already in his vehicle so it'll be a good match. ;)

If there is time tomorrow while the engine and trans are out, I'm going to try to do DEI Floor and Tunnel Shield up the firewall and as far back into the tunnel as I can go with the material I have available. I really want to see what this stuff can do. Its packed up in the car so we'll see what happens.

Definitely want to know your impressions on those mounts.

I shall report as appropriate, though it may take a while to get through the 500 mile break-in everyone talks about. Though keep in mind that my back-to-back will be 14 year old factory installed mounts :doh:

I suspect I'll be ripping my dash out and going Jeffbucc anti-rattle OCD on everything once the stiffer mounts go in and the rattles begin anew.

Are my eyes deceiving me or is that a hole in the bell housing?

Hope your guys transplant is going well.

Tis a sticker.

Nice progress!

Gesso and i have successfully transformed my car into a 6 speed, 145hp, metallic orange dildo.

Progress!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1403709823
Old engine. So may Miatas in this image ;)


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1403709823
More differenter engine. It's supposed to look like that, right? This is right after we installed the oil pan. There is enough The Right Stuff® on that oil pan to choke a dozen donkeys. I don't think its ever coming off again. The good news is that it does not leak, the bad news is that my bung locations are not exactly ideal. More on that later. Also shown: 70D engine mounts.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1403709823
More upside-down engine porn. I removed the AC bracket, Fuck The Police.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1403709823
Much grime. So dirty. Wow.
The front (and apparently rear) main seals had been weeping for quite some time, so there is A LOT of shit on the subframe and tunnel. It was very late (or early, can't remember) so in the interest of time, it was decided to not worry about cleaning things this time around. Thus no Floor and Tunnel Shield this time around either. Also shown: 70D engine mounts.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...1&d=1403709823
More differenter engine with 6 speed. So exciting! We moved the entire fuel rail, injectors, M-Tuned reroute parts and engine harness off the old 4W and onto the new 4W.

Filled the coolant system with straight distilled water, filled the engine with 5w40 T6 and the trans with MTG 75w-90. I disconnected the coils (but not the injectors :facepalm:) and cranked it until it had oil pressure. Reconnected the coils and she fired right up! Pretty good for an engine that's been sitting for more than a year. Much burping and thermostat cycling thus commenced.

And then it was like 2:30AM Monday so no mas pics. ;)

Results!

More differenter engine: Does not leak anything, makes more power, is marginally quieter. Definitely a good decision. :bigtu:

6 Speed + MTG: ALLTHEGEARS! ALLTHESHIFTING! Shifts like buttah. Anyone who complains about a notchy 6 speed really needs to consider MTG. I can't even feel the syncro engagement on this trans, its that good. Rev matching a downshifting is going to take some practice as my brain is having issues picking the correct gears, and I found 3rd rather than 6th at least twice, but those wetware problems :bigtu:

MiataRoadster Short Throw Shifter: I bought the "stock height" straight one. Jesus christ, this thing feels amazing. I greased it up per instructions and used Amsoil 2000/Dominator because that's what I had on hand. The shifts are so bloody short on this thing its insane. Snick-snick-snick through the gears. No grinds, no drama, no issues. The engagement point on my FM1 clutch is waaaaaaay down on the floor so I'm finding I can shift far, far faster than I can get the clutch operated. Also, finding reverse is a new experience for me coming from a 5 speed. Again, these gripes are wetware issues. :bigtu:

AWR/949 70D engine mounts: Initial impression? OHGODWHY?! Holy mother of god, these things are STIFF. If you miss a shift with these installed, then you don't know how to transmission. If you put these on your car, be sure there is nothing extraneous in your glove box/door pockets/center console because you WILL hear it. The additional NVH is amazing with these things. At idle, it sounds like the car is coming apart. The display on my MTX-L seems to "float" in my vision, like its not attached to the gauge. As the engine warmed up and the idle RPM dropped, I got to enjoy identifying the resonant frequencies of the different body panels in the car. Once driving the frequencies increase enough that the audible portion (partially) goes away, but I can still feel a high frequency vibration through the steering wheel and the rear view mirror is slightly blurry. Everything I've read about these mounts says that you need to withhold judgement on these until after the 500 mile break-in period. I'm only about 50 miles into the 500 but unless the break-in is super effective, I may get a set of MazdaComp mounts.

:redx: Ungh, stupid broken images. Let me see if I can fix that...

Edit: Apparently file size limit is 1200x1200 so my glorious 2048x1152 images cannot be uploaded :cry:

Image Resizer for Windows - Home

OSX Image Resizer

What do I look like, a fascist?

So I'm 100 miles into the 500 mile break-in on the 70D mounts. I'm not sure if they have started to break in or if I'm getting used to it, but they do seem slightly better. I'm not sure I'm hardcore enough for these things, all I can do is worry about every fastener in my car vibrating loose.

Are the bushings split? Or is it all one big piece that's pressed in?
70D is really really hard... If they're split then maybe some softer ones could be poured and easily tried out...
I've used this stuff before (non car related) with really good results.
http://www.smooth-on.com/tb/files/TASK_13_14_TB.pdf

Not factory mounts, is dis tings:
Engine mounts installed, diff mounts ended up on Gesso's project. Not sure I'm man enough for these things. We'll see in another 400 miles.

I think he means are the bushings 2 piece like the control arm bushings. Where a bushing pushes in from either side of the hole. I didn't look when we installed them, but given the lip on either side I would guess they are 2 piece.

Yep, they are 2 piece. AWR has replacements on the website.

From whence I stole this picture:

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1405261483

I think the problem with softer bushings is them holding up to the weight/load. The reason 70d's are so firm is because of the small amount of material being used in this design (just my thought). I have them in my car and I don't think it's too firm at all but it really is just a matter of your idea of "too firm".

If you aren't happy with them I could take them back for some type of credit. Granted they aren't my design, I still don't like recommending something to someone and they aren't happy with the results.

If a different duro might solve the problem I have a really good relationship with Energy suspension and wouldn't mind looking into a softer replacement. It would probably take a small batch to get things going though.