IT RUNS! :skid:
N/A for the break-in miles. Plus I need to get it inspected first.

It looks a bit more like a car now:
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I also found out the gas gauge doesn't work.
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Doing the same. Breaking in the clutch, tires, and brakes, plus smog inspection before I can actually install the fun parts. So boring to have no boost lol.

Its definitely slow but I'm just happy to have it driving again. It's been almost two years since I drove a Miata. After I get a new battery I'll be able to start driving it to work, and start figuring out any small issues that come up (like that gas gauge).

I'm really just crossing my fingers and hoping the motor stays in one piece. Never built an engine before. The first 15 miles have been fine though!

Awesome recovery/build.

GLORY

Reppin' (thanks Lars)

I figured I might as well become a supporter now too. All the info here helped me tremendously over the course of this build.

How do you make sure the rings seat properly under boost if you don't break it in under boost?

Ring seating doesn't change with boost, but if you seat rings under boost, you'll end up with a bunch of oil all over the place.

So on your built EFR motors, you recommend to completelystay out of boost for proper break in?

My motor customers get a highly detailed procedure to follow for break-in, as well as four quarts of Amsoil's break-in oil to be used during that time.

I followed FM's break-in procedure (https://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/breakin.php) and used SAE 30 weight conventional oil (Pennzoil). They recommend staying out of boost as well.
Changed oil immediately after seating the rings on the first drive (5-10 miles?), changed again at 100 miles, I'll change it again at 500, and again at 1000. I'll switch to synthetic sometime after that.

So my car was stumbling on left turns, starting at around 1/4 tank of gas left. Also, my fuel gauge didn't work. I started to investigate this and WOW! - What a can of worms. I think the pictures speak for themselves.

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No wonder the gauge didn't work, PO is lucky this thing didn't explode when this happened. No idea what he did.
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New (old, from the black car) gas/pump:

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New stainer and fuel filter too, no pics though.

Also detailed!

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Ready to hit Cars & Coffee in Bethlehem, PA tomorrow morning.

Time for megasquirtin'. I wanted to get a MS3x, and probably still will eventually, but kind of fell into a MSPNP2 a few weeks ago. A buddy blew his engine, and I had a spare (the original engine to this Montego car, that was smokin' earlier in this thread). He happened to have an MSPNP2 he wasn't using. Straight trade, longblock for the MS.

So I started to install the Megasquirt, and I quickly got frustrated trying to fish wires. I took the dash out to save some headache. It's really easy after the first few times.

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I've been using these cute uninsulated crimp/butt connectors, then covering with heatstrink. I think it looks pretty clean - way better than those huge plastic insulated ones. Still need to grab a proper crimper though.
You can see I tried to stagger these (this is the wiring for the AEM UEGO) so the bundle of wire doesn't get too fat from the crimps overlapping.

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Annnnd I'm not totally sure what happened here. I pulled this from the wrecked car which has been sitting for almost 2 years. Shorted? Rusted? Donno.
I bought a new one and it should be here shortly. For the time being I have a closed-element sensor that will work.

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Starting to look like home again! Ricey!

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MSPNP2 booted up. Didn't start it yet because I want to double check my firmware and I also have NO idea what tune is on this thing. I'll probably overwrite it with a basemap for a clean start.

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That where I'm at for the moment. Hopefully I'll get it running today. At some point I have to put my EV14 injectors in. It also still needs to be inspected..

Got a few more things done, prepping for the turbo now. Got the car inspected early last week, no issues whatsoever.
Got the GT500 650cc injectors in, changed req. fuel and it started right up.
Updated the firmware on the Megasquirt MSPNP2 to 3.4.2 and thought I broke it - turns out it was just me not reading the change notes. Made a thread about that but figured it out myself before anyone could call me a dummy (I'll take that as a win).
Pulled the intercooler and piping out of the old car and cleaned it up. Pulled the R-style lip off the old car too, I'll clean that up and put it on this one eventually.

Since my trackspeed downpipe should be here sometime next week, I started mocking up the turbo. I clocked the compressor a ton to point it in toward the engine which is sweet because.. anyone coming from a FM kit to the Trackspeed EFR kit - it looks like the silicone intercooler piping will work with little/no modification. At least on the pre-intercooler side. I also don't have PS/AC getting in the way, either. I still need to clock the center section so the drain is on the bottom.

I also cut the 'ear' off the 5-speed, since that needs to be removed for the downpipe to fit per the trackspeed thread.

Pics:
inspected ;)
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nub:
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no nub:
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FM intercooler & piping:
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I'll be cutting this red piece instead of using the FM piece since I have a 99+ IAC (so it doesn't need a breather), BOV is integrated into the EFR, and the IAT is in the side of the intercooler.
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Pretty:
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Shit, AGAIN? Someone pulled out from a stop sign, right infront of me. In the market for another daily now..

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At least my downpipe came, it's excellent
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So I picked up a 2006 Mazda 3 as a daily. It's got 165k on it, but has held up decent. I like it but it burns a shitload more oil than I was expecting. Probably 1 qt/1000 miles. Might have to sell it for something else because of that. We'll see how much it bothers me when I have to put a qt of oil in every other tank of gas..

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Sounds like you got the super rare 2006 RX-3 hatchback. The oil burning is standard.

Ugh. I knew the oil burning was pretty common on these, so I kinda knew what I was getting into. The guy claimed it only burned 1 qt between 3k mile oil changes, which isn't all that bad. I kinda just believed him without a second thought. Oh well, I'm not out any money on the exchange (they gave me more than I paid for the Protege to replace it).

Anywho, back to Miata things. I got the downpipe sometime last month and the fitup wasn't that great in my chassis. After some emails back and forth with Andrew @ Trackspeed, it may be something with the AWR style "supermiata" motor mounts. I imagine it's incredibly hard to anticipate every single subframe/motor mount difference, plus chassis changes between the years, plus any chassis tweaking over time (my chassis has 180k on it).

Either way, I got it to fit by cutting a bit of the shelf, bashing a bit of the chassis in, and adding a few dents to the downpipe. It still rattles right around 3500-4000 RPM but I think a few more millimeters with a sledge and that should be fixed.

Fitup on the water lines was really good, I'm not running a front water neck so they look a BIT goofy sticking so far forward, not a big deal at all though.

I salvaged what I could from my old exhaust to make a turndown just after the rear subframe. It's SUPER loud. So building a new exhaust is definitely on the to-do list. Probably dual center exit, cause why not.

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Current cold side intercooler routing. Not running the AC fan yet. Hasn't been an issue so far, might be over the summer
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L O U D
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New plugs - NGK BKR8EIX - I like em.
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Added heat:
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Here's how she sits right now. Repping Miataturbo on the quarter winder.

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Upcoming: Real tires cause it shreds these all-seasons through second gear. Running out of injectors at the top end, probably overdue on a fuel pump (stock currently) and FPR.

It's probably time to consider safety gear since it's properly fast at ~12 psi. Roll bar, taller seats, maybe harnesses? Probably not. I think I want to stay with stock 3pt and lotus seats (or similar).

Check PPF height per FSM. That will affect exhaust fit.