Quick update.

Didn't go racing this friday. Might go Sunday, we'll see.

Full inspection shows that the car is fine. So that's good.

Shift light is hooked up now. Yeah! Should go faster if I rev to redline...

Working on a simple/cheap but otherwise not impressive electronics setup for the water pump and cooling fan. WP will be OFF/LOW/HIGH, Fan will be OFF/LOW/MED/HIGH. MS3 programmed to switch them based on RPM and coolant temp. This will allow me to not have to manually worry about these, and save a lot of battery power, so win/win.

Reviewing the video, the poly bushings are letting me down MAJORLY on the launch. Looking into a DIY spherical setup or buy a spherical setup, but I think the off-the-shelf spherical setups won't be strong/rigid enough for drag launches. Not sure yet but I think this needs to be addressed as in drag racing, 60' makes a big difference in ET. And I'm looking for 1.3X 60', not 1.55'. And hopefully 1.2X 60' one day!

Further math analysis from my datalog estimates shows the EFR 7670 will hit choke flow around 33 psi @ 8K RPM with low 60's lb/min. That kinda sucks. Though I see other EFRs do better than the maps suggest so maybe it can do more.

Also my 2600cc ID injectors are at 60% at 21 PSI. So LOL, may need dual injectors. It seems no matter what I put in the car; I'm always running out of injector. Should probably just run a 1/4" hose to each runner and a solenoid to switch them on.

Question for the audience. Anyone think a rods/pistons/main studs/head studs/valvetrain BP can make 800whp and not break the stock main caps or lift the head? Cause if I max this turbo and it holds together, I'm reallllllyyyy tempted to put a 100-150 shot on it and spray it as soon as the tires can put it down. Getting that bug to wanna go fast real hard after not racing for so long.

My optimistic thinking is, with the auto, and keeping the revs up, the torque will be down, and by limiting the midrange, maybe it will hold together making the power at 7-8K RPM? For example, 800whp at 8,300 RPM is only ~500 ft*lbs. Wishful thinking, or maybe...?

 

You trying to go to strange new worlds where no one has gone before Capt. Kirk??

 

I think you can make 800hp for some time. But I doubt it will be a long lived engine that way.

 

Keep in mind ID injectors will be fine at 90-95% duty cycle. What fuel are you running, and what's your fuel pressure throughout a run? Seems strange you're running out of injectors that can do 1300 crank HP at only 90% DC on E85.

 

Have seen broken main caps with arp mains at 500hp, so I don't think that's a good plan without some beafy aftermarket caps.

 

Cap'm, she can't take it for much longer!
Seems perfectly reasonable that you are running out of injector on methanol.
Hmmm, I think... I think, obviously the key words. Where are those extremely beefy main caps you were working on? I need a set. Greg(1993Z32 or something around here) did break his main caps, but he was trying to do something different.
I think my current head and block were machined better than last time. I don't see any evidence of "head lift" like I saw on my last motor. Also running the 2.2 studs this time, but only torqued to 60ft/lbs I think.
Finally, I think methanol is a different fuel, might make all the difference in the world, where no man has gone before...

 

Maybe!
Makes sense. That's a good point to just build it stronger as you're right, no way it will last even if it did take it at first.

Right now I'm at 60% duty cycle at redline at 21 psi boost. Fuel pressure is rising rate, so it's 43.5 higher than boost. If you've seen the fuel pump and regulator I'm running, it should keep up no problem. But I was doing some math and it seems I'll be at 80-85% duty pretty soon if I keep raising the boost. I'm on methanol.

Good point.
Those caps were designed, manufactured, but when I was doing QC, they aren't quite to print. Basically the bolt holes are a touch tighter than the print. Luckily they are undersize, not oversize, so I could put them in the mill and machine them to size.

I've been trying to get the machine shop to fix it since they aren't to print, and me fixing them will take a while. (I ordered 4 sets worth + an extra for destructive testing purposes).

I suppose I could go machine a set and then get my next motor build going, as the caps are all I'm missing for the build I think.

What are 2.2 studs?

 

I'm still showing those injectors good to 600+hp, but it really depends on what psi you end up hitting those hp numbers at. At ~28psi, those are 3350+ injectors, which on meth is good to ~620 @90%. Don't be afraid to run these injectors above 80%, IDs are good to 95% last I read, most of the "don't go above 80-85%" info is based off pre-2000 injector tech.

 

Good to know! I'll run them to 95%. Any reason not to just go to 100? I guess somewhere between 95 and 100 they just stay on?

What do you mean by 3350+? My regulator is just a 1:1 reg, so it keeps the fuel pressure the same across the injector, so if I'm at 28 psi boost, my fuel pressure would be 43.5+28 = 71.5, but the injector would still be flowing like it's at 43.5 since that's the delta P across it.

 

The Chrysler 2.2 "High Boost" head studs, I don't know, the 2.2 studs? I got them from supermiata

 

Pat, I'd allow a little more leeway for DC than that because differences in temp can necessitate more fuel sometimes than when you tuned it. You don't want to go lean because the temp dropped one evening.

 

I'm probably wrong on injector sizing math, so ignore that then. I've ran IDs to 110+% before. They really don't seem to care, eventually you'll continue to add VE and AFR won't go down. Remember DC is a rough calculation based off of data the user inputs, so it's not always accurate. Is this smart? Maybe not (I don't keep any of my tunes at anything above 90% FYI) but I have read somewhere that the 80% DC "rule" is a bit outdated. Wish I could remember where I read that, but I can't. If I refused to tune cars that don't have ID1700s, -6 fuel lines, 400+lph fuel pump, and a dedicated FP relay, I wouldn't tune many cars. I usually track pressure and DC, recommending a FP if pressure drops, or injectors if FP doesn't drop and DC starts creeping above 90%.

Cooler air usually also means more boost, which means more fuel pressure, typically keeping AFRs safe. Honestly drag racing is super easy on engines if you continue to monitor vitals like you seem to do every run. Just get them to 85-90% DC before upgrading, that's my main point.

 

Pat, I think if you're in custom machined part territory and want a long service 800hp I'd do a combo main cap girdle 2(or 3) piece oil pan to tie every available bolt hole in the bottom of the block together. I think after you'd be in a race to see if the factory crank or the off the shelf rods would be the part that determines your service interval.

 

I see. I guess I have regular ones in this motor. Need to check what my spares are. Thanks for the info!
Good point! Noted.
Good to know. I will look into the injector stuff a bit. Hell, I'll just ask ID and post here what they tell me. Their customer service has been great.

"Pat, I think if you're in custom machined part territory and want a long service 800hp I'd do a combo main cap girdle 2(or 3) piece oil pan to tie every available bolt hole in the bottom of the block together. I think after you'd be in a race to see if the factory crank or the off the shelf rods would be the part that determines your service interval."

I've seriously considered designing a split block, or possibly welding in some bracing (and stress relieving everything) to stiffen the main cap area where it ties into the block.

Any thoughts on welded construction for the split-block part? I'd machine everything of course, but if the part was welded first, it's be easier to make vs a giant piece of billet to machine away 80-90% of the metal. I guess the girdle/split block parts could bolt together, but rigidity and space may be an issue with bolted construction.

 

I don't think its worth doing it welded.

 

I'll have video in a day or so. But made 4 passes at import faceoff. Third pass I trapped 118mph in the 1/8th! And 0-60 of 2.14 seconds, 0-60 (1ft rollout) of 1.96 seconds! I can't believe this 1.8L BP Miata can do 0-60 in under 2 seconds.

 

Jesus Christ, Pat! 118 in the 1/8th is insane. Does it have gearing to run the 1/4?

 

Yeah, I'm shifting into 3rd at about 114mph. So it could run 1/4 mile with this gearing no problem. I'm mostly planning to run 1/8th mile, so I'm considering swapping the 3.55 for something like a 4.10 or 4.30, depending on what makes sense.

 

Congrats dude! shes a rocket.

I need to get me some of those dilithium chrystals!! LOL...

 

Great work! That 6.1705 is good for a 9.56 in the 1/4!