mx5psi

will a megashift kit work with it ? Megasquirt make them

http://www.msgpio.com/manuals/mshift/4L60e.html

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I'm not 100% sure what all it does with the ECU or trans. I'm just swapping everything so that it 100% will work as it's supposed to. As mentioned an aftermarket computer could shift it, but this should also work and run/drive as well as stock without any tuning or anything. And it should idle up when shifted in to drive, etc. No doubt this is a nightmare to do the swap. It looks like about 4 hrs to remove/install the new trans, and 4-5 days for the wiring to make it work! I hope it all works well when it's done.

On the up side, my old harness had been modified over the years for various things, so at least now I have a clean/unaltered one going in the car which is nice.

As for manually shifting it yeah probalby when racing, will have to see how it does at WOT with the TCU doing the shifting. For regular driving I want it to shift automatically of course.

Manual is out, clutch/flywheel is out, master/slave/hoses/pedal is out, and wiring harness for the dash is coming out, both sides that go into the engine bay are laying in the cabin now.

Also going to clean up some of my MS wiring while the car is in a thousand pieces.

stefanst

iTrader: (1)

I installed a US Shift controller The US Shift Transmission Control System on a Ford E4OD for a friend's truck. But I don't think they have harnesses and programming for our non-domestic ATs. The ability to load different shift profiles and paddle-shift is very helpful. You can also adjust transmission fluid pressure for smoothness of shifts (or harder shifts if so desired). But to begin with I'd go with the stock computer as well and see what breaks. If AT works and doesn't blow up then go with fancy controls.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I'm still scratching my head about this over a 'glide but what do I know.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Cleaned and painted the intake mani, valve cover, coil bracket, and a few odd brackets/bolts for those components. Have wanted to this for 10 years now, so while I had the intake off I went ahead and did it. Set me back about 6 hours to get all this cleaned and painted. Will take pics of valve cover when it wrinkles, I just sprayed it. And will post pics of it installed when the car finally goes back together. Will be nice to have the engine bay looking better.

I ripped out my old wiring box I installed in 2013. Going to redo it. Fans will now have separate PWM control for each fan, no more low/high via series/parallel relay configuration. Time delay will now be done via software instead of with a time delay relay. Components for fan controller arrive tomorrow and I'll get that built and tested.

Next plan is to clean the engine bay while everything is out, and then pull the last bit of harness from the car (the part that runs from battery to starter). Then remove a few more wires from cabin from MS install for things that I'm going to redo or not use, then I will begin installing new wiring harness. Going to tap a few wires from the factory harness to share with the MS as before. Will also redo the wiring for my warning lights while the dash is out.

I guess I can mention this, but if anyone wants a ACT-XT 6 puck/flywheel/6 speed/MiataRoadster shifter that were abused but still work great, I have them for sale.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I think if I decide to modify any of the shifting parameters (that the TCU controls), it would be fore the auto to shift at a higher RPM. I think I could modify the signals going to the TCU to achieve that. I doubt I'll ever put a standalone TCU in the car, but who knows.

The painted valve cover is drying and it looks SWEET! Can't wait to get the car back together. I'm cleaning up the engine bay as well, going to try to make this look a lot better when I open the hood.

Monk

iTrader: (3)

Can't you just put in a vacuum shift modulator from a 300zx to make it shift higher?
Gimme a minute to find the info on that...

Monk

iTrader: (3)

I missed the part earlier where you already mentioned the 300zx, but here is the thread where we mention changing the modulator.
https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...mission-81328/
There is also a wiring diagram buried in there somewhere.

Edit: here it is
http://www.y8spec.com/miata_tech/wiring%20all.pdf

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for the info, I had not seen that thread. Even has a video of a turbo auto miata.

The NB transmission apparently doesn't have a vacuum modulator, it's all electronically controlled through the computer. But that 300zx modulator would be nice for the older autos. In fact I could end up using the older auto if I can't get the newer one built to take the power.

Parts arrived for fan controller, going to start building that.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I think using the stock computer and line pressure you'll probably smoke it before you break something.

mx5psi

i think pats will be able to firm up the shifts i think the input and output shaft strength may be the issue with drag launches

credit it to him for having a go

farpolemiddle

This may have been mentioned and I may have missed it but why not just convert the tranny to a manual valve body somehow and skip the computer stuff? Yes a little annoying to do all the shifting but race car. I had a Nova set up that way.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I drive it every day, so I want it to shift like a stock car.

Funny enough, the output shaft is considerably bigger on the auto vs 6 speed, and so is the input shaft. We will see how it goes.

Leafy, yeah the stock trans will surely slip or break, it's going to be the new weak link.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Also, I haven't made any progress on the wiring today, but I did fab up a sweet PWM fan controller and got that tested. Gotta build it for on-the-car quality and add a second circuit for second fan as well, but I can command a fan duty from 10% to 100% and it does it. Very slick and should save some drain on the electrical for the times when I don't need as much fan. Also can soft start fans so no more harsh insta-loading from a pair of 40A fans turning on.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Why not just use megasquirt PWM outputs?

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Does MS do fan PWM control? If it does I didn't know it did that. I want to set it to say

< 185, fan off
at 186*F, PWM = 10%
at 195*F, PWM = 100%

And it interpolate between 186-195*F or whatever I decide the range to be.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Just briefly checked on my phone.

PWM output. With a table on 2 axis. Rpm and coolant. Z is PWM.

So you have a ton of options.

You would probably need a solid state relay or something.

Could be cool.

I can dig more on the computer if you are interested

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I see, that's interesting. It would do 90% of what I want. I may just do that for now, that's simple enough. Thanks! I bought the components to deal with the electric motors already and that works, so should be straight forward to setup from here, just finalize that hardware and let MS do the PWM. Thanks again!

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Welcome. Good luck.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Small update.

Got the vehicle wiring harness swapped over. Got the flex plate/converter/automatic/PPF/Driveshaft installed. Still need to install the trans cooler and lines, plug in the wires to the auto, vent for auto trans, dipstick, shifter and linkage, little stuff like that on trans. Big ticket items are in though.

Now I'm going to redo all my MS wiring, fan wiring, fuel pump wiring, and a few other things (warning lights and whatnot, little things). Hoping to get that done in the next few days and get the car put all back together. Also gotta redo my exhaust (it won't fit with the auto) and redo the mid section of my boost pipe where it goes around the transmission as well since the auto is a lot bigger than the manual.

The 7 day goal was a joke, looks like it's gonna be a 2 week adventure! Oh well, it's finally coming together now.