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Petrolmed's basic Artech build
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I’ve had my 1991 1.6L Miata for about 4 years and it didn’t take long to realize I was going to upgrade and eventually turbo it. I started out long ago intending on street driving only, but it will see autocross and maybe some track days eventually.
I knew next to nothing about the car or mechanics starting out, so I did a crap ton of reading this site while picking up parts here and there. I should note that this research all occurred after I had already owned the car a year or two. It ended up being one of the 1991.5 long nose 1.6s… which was bittersweet since it’s still a 1.6. It was and still is a blast to drive pre-turbo. This makes me wonder what the 1.8 does to the car, especially after boost. This is my very first picture of the classic red (pink) car, right before purchase many moons ago at 155k miles. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 Another photo right after purchase, because part time car detailer. It is surprising what some wax will do to old paint. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 The interior was actually pretty gross and neglected. I took about 3-4 full car details for the crud to dissipate. There’s something gross about someone else’s filth being in your car, let alone 6+? years worth of it. 3 years ago, the car cleaned up even better after a much needed rust repair, new top, and bumper repaint thanks to jeep owners not paying attention. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 See my thread for rust repair details and pictures here: https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...ctorial-64629/ 1.8 BIG BRAKE KITTT omg https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 I had an ACT street clutch put in around the same time, fantasizing about actually going turbo one day. Years back, I thought 15x7s were wide due to lack of research and pronounced disposition towards being cheap as hell back then. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 Next to 14x6 seven spokes I never ended up using as an upgrade from daisies. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 Despite the narrower width, I do LOVE the Yoko S.drives (195s). They’re good in the dry and absolutely killer in wet conditions. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 I picked up some used Koni Sports to go with the new wheels on the car. This isn’t an optimal suspension setup, but it is still a night and day difference from stock. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 M2 Sport DD to save my noggin. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 Then the real bug bit me last summer and I started prepping for future boost! I nabbed a 4.1 Torsen swap for a good deal. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 Got some outdated technology, but it is easy to work with for this noob. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 Dirty old SR20 t25: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 Finally I pried it apart after hours of PB blaster and intense wrench action. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 Lightly used begi manifold: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 Charge piping with a TiAL BOV included for a GOOD deal. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 Tuning during LC-1 and MS installation: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 I’ve got to say that I love me some tuning. It’s so much fun to tinker with the engine parameters and see what improves and changes, especially after getting over the learning curve and while N/A. The info on this site really made it possible and sound realistic enough for me to take the plunge. I highly recommend MS installs while N/A for those new to tuning. I did it without knowing a thing. It has made the car noticeably more lively and fun to drive and I understand the car’s inner workings so much more. However, cold start tuning blows massively. Ricer https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 Rebuilt the snail: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 Big thanks to the MT members who I bought stuff from used and saved cash. The savings allowed for this full 3" Artech stainless exhaust system: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 5x11x22 muffler for stealth DD I debated a while on getting some of the super cheap used begi setups on the classifieds. After reading and comparing the cost effectiveness, I went with this Artech 3” glory with 5x11x22 magnaflow V-band goodness with a cat for whenever I might need it. Also, some expensive extruded space metal to hold my crap together forever. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 As well as 650cc FICs https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 “Enjoying” stock for a little while longer. Still running strong at 187k miles https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362878857 |
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I had a grad student friend who does wedding photos take some pictures. She had never photographed cars before but I think they turned out pretty good.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362879067 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362879067 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362879067 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362879067 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362879067 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362879067 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362879067 Wish I had straightened the center caps https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362879067 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362879067 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362879067 …and detailed a little better https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1362879067 Injectors go in this weekend as long as the weather stays nice as predicted. Once that’s complete and the Artech exhaust hits my doorstep, I’ll be going crazy every day I’m not boosted. I’m looking forward to posting more pictures and videos post turbo install. Hopefully tuning for boost goes well and the motor holds up nicely (if not, 1.8)! The goal is to be finished up by the end of March or early April. I’ve spotted quite a few other newer members with good quality sr20 t25 builds. Hopefully we can help and learn from each other. It’s been a long journey for me so far and I’m so excited to see it come to fruition after all of the planning and research. I have MT.net to thank as well as it’s constant entertainment. :party: |
Your car makes me want to set mine on fire.
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Originally Posted by viperormiata
(Post 987831)
Your car makes me want to set mine on fire.
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Good show! I've been digging my S.drives as daily tires for a while now as well. I'm sure a 195 feels better on a x7 than they probably feel on my stock x6s too. Make me want more rims...
How tough was the rebuild on that SR20? What rebuild kit did you end up using? I also didn't realize ARtech built downpipes to match the BEGi stuff. Beautiful as always! Subbed for more win. |
Thanks for the compliments! Its in pretty good shape, but like all of our 20ish year old cars, it has its weak points.
Ryan: Yep, I'm sticking with the 1.6 until it doesn't work any more haha. I hope it lasts because I want to accumulate monies for a 1.8 that has rods at least. If it fails too soon, I fear I'll cheap out and be temped to do another stock 1.6. I've gotten the quality supporting mods I want for this build and it cost me a little extra that's for sure! E02K: The rebuild wasn't bad at all. The most difficult part is cracking that exhaust housing loose. Once those 4 bolts are out its easy following all of the internet's written guides. I used the gpop t25 rebuild kit. It's the same as yours (that you snagged just before me in the classifieds lol), new from the shop. Artech seems to do whatever you want if it is physically possible. So I got the injectors in and they're running quite well. With the settings adjusted, it was idling and running nasty rich on the old table. I went around autotuning VE and things settled down to target AFRs again. Then I went for a drive later and it was nasty lean... I reloaded the original VE table and it was near perfect, weird. I also wasn't hitting overrun because my full vacuum load was like 35 kpa and now its back to 12, weird again. I'll keep tabs on this for possible vacuum leak. I also installed my boost gauge and wired in my DB gauge's dimmer function at the red/black radio wire. The db was dimming fine until I wired the autometer's bulb in and now my dash and tail lights are out. Time to chase fuses and I hope that solves it! |
Originally Posted by petrolmed
(Post 988194)
I used the gpop t25 rebuild kit. It's the same as yours (that you snagged just before me in the classifieds lol), new from the shop. Artech seems to do whatever you want if it is physically possible
Yeah, Abe is some sort of wizard. I should never doubt his 1337 5k1ll2 For the nasty lean on restart, were you heatsoaked and where is your IAT located? Ambient temps? Could this be the infamous GAIR/GAMMAE table & sensor heatsoak issue? I've read this can be brutal with the Gen 1 systems, and I even ran into this with my DIYPNP. Just a thought, I'm an unrepentant MS :noob: |
Off to a great start. I would have been there helping if I wasn't drilling and tapping my slave cylinder mounting bolt :vash:. BTW there's an autox in Verona next weekend. I'll probably go, car running or not.
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 988279)
Aww, now I has a sad. It wasn't my intent to swoop but I guess it all worked out in the end. I need to bolt down my vice before I crack my T25.
Yeah, Abe is some sort of wizard. I should never doubt his 1337 5k1ll2 For the nasty lean on restart, were you heatsoaked and where is your IAT located? Ambient temps? Could this be the infamous GAIR/GAMMAE table & sensor heatsoak issue? I've read this can be brutal with the Gen 1 systems, and I even ran into this with my DIYPNP. Just a thought, I'm an unrepentant MS :noob: My logs didn't indicate any extreme AITs or Gair/gammae during the lean conditions. It continued as I drove around and AITs came down. I think it was from the initial autotune that brought my VE values way down from that original table. Oh well, all seems good now.
Originally Posted by mx5autoxer
(Post 988335)
Off to a great start. I would have been there helping if I wasn't drilling and tapping my slave cylinder mounting bolt :vash:. BTW there's an autox in Verona next weekend. I'll probably go, car running or not.
Regarding the dash lights and such, I figured that one out. I had checked the 'meter' fuse which was intact and that threw me off. I later read that the 'tail' fuse is in the same circuit, so I checked that one and it was blown. Replaced it, and now my dash and running lights work again, plus AFRs dim and the boost gauge illuminates as intended! Woo! I'm hoping for some better gas mileage from the ev14s. I'm assuming they are more efficient than 21 year old stockers, especially cyl 3. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363031278 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1363482625 Attachment 239711 BTW: If anyone wants a blue Innovate DB gauge in place of their red one, I'll swap the gauge only with you. It's even got the plastic cover on the face still! |
We are FIC 650 injector bros! :makeout: I'm interested to see what kind of additional efficiency you see with the EV14s. How's the idle currently?
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Hell yeah we are! I debated forever on if I should get them or blow even more $$ on IDs. IDs are probably better but for my purposes, FIC all the way. They are great so far and idle just as good and maybe better than stock. Keep in mind batch fire 1.6L with MS1 lol.
I've occasionally forgotten to filter out idle cells from tuning and it brings idle AFRs to like 16.0 or so and it can hold that at just under 1k RPMs with little fuss. They are happiest idling at high 13s or low 14s and thats where I keep them. |
we have a very similar build, sr20 turbo, begi manifold, fic 650's. only differences i have a 1.8 and an ms3. car looks good though, keep up the good work.
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Starting to make some progress. Got IC routing and mounting pretty much figured out and the stock parts off the car. The manifold, turbo and exhaust are going on as soon as I drill and tap. Should be finished up by Wednesday I hope!
The injectors have been running great. Got my MPGs up pretty high on a trip to Raleigh and to Charlottesville so I'm satisfied. No real difference to report in the pathetic 0-25 mph stop-go traffic of Blacksburg. A little update to keep me on track: Received goodies some time back https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1365999816 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1365999816 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1365999816 Functional wastegate bracket https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1365999816 I have the white spring, hooray! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1365999816 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1365999816 Blue state post :( https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1365999816 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1365999816 |
Nice wastegate bracket design. Curly Design Inc.
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^^^^^ ding ding ding! Thanks for that curly, I like the design a lot. It is real secure and allows for some adjustability. Also, Brain's license plate bracket is a winner, although needing front plates is poo. You guys make copycatting easy.
Some more baby steps: I finally got the balls to drill and tap the oil pan for the return fitting. Flushed the thing out with mineral spirits and now she sits with some cheap oil waiting to get run and drained. It was nice practicing drilling and tapping the IC piping for a new temp sensor location and for the wastegate signal source first. Can I rely on the sensor and signal fitting's NPT threads to seal well or should some RTV sealant or something go in there? All my vital lines and hoses are now wrapped up with some insulating and reflective tape to protect from turbo heat so I can check that off now. Each step is nice to get out of the way with my erratic schedule. I only have an hour or two at a time to do things. Where's Waldo? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366247961 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366247961 There he is! Quite stealthy, that one. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366247961 I finalized mounting the IC only after one of the hood latch bolts snapped when I slipped the bracket behind it and tightened. Had to take the whole bumper off just to get the turd out which luckily moved easily by hand, no drilling needed! I'm excited to see how the little IC does. Brain keeps waffling on how much he liked it for the boost response but naturally it won't genereate as much temp difference. The rest of the piping is actually finalized now with the sensors in place, excluding of course the need for a reducing coupler from the tiny ass turbo outlet to piping diameter. TiAL BOV is routed to the brake booster line with a 5/16" line. I hope its wide and short enough for it open quickly off throttle. Is it necessary to drain the whole coolant system to get the water fittings attached or will it stop draining from the tiny hose to be removed? I hope to keep making progress and finish up by the weekend. Exhaust or at least turbo and manifold should be on tomorrow. |
does ART tech have a pre-made jig for the begi mani? or you sent yours in?
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Originally Posted by ACiFiC
(Post 1002566)
does ART tech have a pre-made jig for the begi mani? or you sent yours in?
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Originally Posted by petrolmed
(Post 988342)
BTW: If anyone wants a blue Innovate DB gauge in place of their red one, I'll swap the gauge only with you. It's even got the plastic cover on the face still!
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What's that looped line in the bracket in the picture of your latest haul?
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Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 1002815)
What's that looped line in the bracket in the picture of your latest haul?
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Brain, we shall chat in PM.
Concealer, do you mean the ARTech gear? If I'm looking at the same thing it is the uncut silicone portion of the water lines. The two big SS ones run to the little L bracket and the last few inches are that black hose. Edit: MicaCeli's got it^^ |
Ah ok, so it won't always be looped. That makes more sense. Very cool!
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Haha yep. I considered keeping it looped for OPTIMUM COOLING :fael: but I will probably just be all boring and hook it up to the water connections.
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The install over the weekend went fairly smoothly, excepting the very end. So I got the turbo mounted, mashing the heater hard line out of the way, lines routed and fitted, final turbo IC piping completed, exhaust hung up, etc. All good except for the very last piece of the puzzle.
The very end is sad because the DP isn't mounting to the turbo without hitting the engine/transmission junctions. See the fail pics far down below the success install pics. Throw me all your ideas to remedy this so I don't have to send it to artech :( and send moral support on the things I did right lol. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366683160 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366683160 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366683160 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366683160 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366683160 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366683160 Time for the FAIL downpipe issue pictures. It needs to rotate counterclockwise and move up to be flush with the turbo, but it is prevented from doing so by the motor's protrusion right at a tranny bolt. The pics don't show that part perfectly tho. Help me resolve this if it is possible! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366683160 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366683160 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366683160 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366683160 |
I normally remove the brace from the front subframe. Loosen the engine mounts from the subframe. Jack up the engine. Downpipe should go in. That's how I installed my Artech downpipe. Hope that helps.
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Is your PPF adjusted properly? Not sure if it will make enough of a difference but mine actually lifted the rear of my trans after I adjusted it correctly... No idea if it will create room where needed but u never know lol
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Yeah I think you need to lift the motor up a bit. From your pictures I seem to have much more room in that section then you do. I also installed my DP on the motor before putting anything in.
You could also undo the turbo put the dp on and then put the turbo back in. |
Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will try them out and see what happens. I had to lift the motor to get the DP to insert up from below the car as well.
I'm afraid the DP just runs too close to the engine at the diameter expansion section next to the motor-trans junction. We shall see what these adjustments bring us. Any further ideas are more than welcome. Haven't heard from abe yet about his ideas but I hope you all are right. Literally all I have to do for the car to run is bolt the DP to the turbo and the DP to the rest of the exhaust :cry: |
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So my fears appear to be true. It goes up and in, routed in a proper way and with good clearance but wont match to the turbo in that configuration. Despite adjusting in all sorts of ways such as those suggested above, it doesn't want to fit. The motor is blocking it from twisting when I try to line up the turbine-DP bolts, but that doesn't matter anyway because the path of it in that imaginary configuration isn't good not to mention resting against the engine.
Pics here are from above and below the car with DP in the same static location. Any further propositions before I send it back for modification? I don't think there is another option. I spoke with Abe and that's probably what we'll be doing. This is in no way badmouthing ARTech. As usual he is being professional, helpful, and wants to fix it right so no negativity towards him please. If only I could twist SS with my hands! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366761537 Looks great! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366761537 Oh, wait... https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1366761537 |
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https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369191554
So I finally got my parts back and everything fits into place! DP still kisses the trans housing where it interfered before. Not sure of the discrepancy between abe's setup and mine but hell it works. Gotta run it like this for now but it's not vibrating or giving me any problems. I started off with an exhaust leak right behind the turbo at the top of the flange. I thought I was going to disassemble all that shit again and plane the surfaces, but I had an old gasket laying around that I slipped in there and voila, no leak. Time to drive! Initial autotune went nice and slow with mx5autoxer in my passenger seat. Slowly tuned boost step by step and it looks like I'm capped out at 6 psi with this wastegate. Have not seen MAP above 141 kPa. All in all, still real fun compared to stock but I see an MBC in my future soon (thinking ebay NXS). I can feel the potential boost and quicker spool waiting to be had. Been logging and driving like mad and cells aren't really changing much anymore. Here's what I ended up with. Not touching spark, that one is just the basemap from diyautotune. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369191554 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369191554 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369191554 The exhaust note is real nice, just a bit louder than stock. Seems to be getting quieter with break in. I have had good success with the BOV given that it opens well at low boost pressures and seals at idle. It might be opening a tad with high vacuum load. It's certainly audible, but It sounds clean. To finalize it all, I only need to trim my plastic undertray and install to keep the cooling system operating optimally. Then I'll crank the boost with MBC! |
Ah, the sweet taste of victory. Lets go to Lowe's and fab up a MBC so we can crank dat boost.
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Yay Matty Chuck! I read your text when I got off work and went, "woohoo" in front of my coworkers. They're just jealous.
Also, you want EBC, not MBC. |
I'm sticking with MBC for now due to simplicity and low wallet impact. I'm excited to run it as is plus a few more psi!
Either going to build one or get the NXS ebay one I've heard good things about. The graigner valve ones I've seen talked about before look good, but have to order from McMaster. If the ebay one functions just as well or the hardware store verison I'll do one of those. This: NXS Manual Boost Controller 300zx GSX GST STI RX7 MBC | eBay Or this: boostcontrol Or parts from the hardware store and try to find the right spring as well as ball bearing. Using https://www.miataturbo.net/useful-sa...ing-mbc-10990/ |
skip mbc and just setup EBC
it takes longer but works grrrreat. |
I know, I know, I'll get there in due time. For now a quick and easy $15 fix is the ticket.
Just ordered the parts for two grainger valve versions (2nd link above) that mx5autoxer and I will try out. |
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I just finished up trimming the undertray for closure of my build. Before I did that, I wanted access to my oil drain to check and make sure all is well. I think I might have too much oil pressure into the turbo? What do you all think?
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369784967 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369784967 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369784967 A beautiful sight to finally see: https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369784967 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369784967 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369784967 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369784967 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369784967 Muffler hangs a little crooked https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1369784967 No boost increase as of yet. Still waiting on those parts. While I wait, I wanted to take a few vids at 6 psi for comparison. These two are pretty terrible, but you can :dealwithit: |
Anyone care to comment on the oil flow from that vid above? I'm burning a bit of oil I think but not much more than before the install. Sometimes I get a little spurt of smoke out the tailpipe and a nice smell, though I've never driven a catless car before so IDK exactly what is normal. Even without a cat, this exhaust sounds way nice and continues to quiet down with use.
The MBC I put together is working nicely and holding well at about 165 kPa. I didn't want to boost it up too high as I've been driving long distances moving my ass out of state to Raleigh, NC. I've put about 1000 miles on the car already. During all this driving, my AFRs have been more stable as well as the MAP signal, and I'm getting 300 milles to the tank. This is even better than before with the MS so that makes me happy, not to mention being able to accelerate at highway speeds. During part of the move, I left my car at the parents' place to borrow their suburban. They decided to joyride around a bit which was OK until I realized they went over 100 miles after topping off my 1/4 full tank with regular gas. I don't think they drove it hard, but I still freaked me out at the idea of all my efforts getting detonated (literally). I drained the gas and refilled with 93 and all has been well so far. Hot starts down in the south have been pretty shitty, stalling out at times and giving me a nice lifter tick the first few minutes of operation. Also I notice a pretty big power difference when its hot/cool outside, much moreso than I was expecting. I'll jump on the EBC train after I complete my move and begin work. It's still plenty fun right now! :party: |
Glad to hear the MBC is working. Let me know when you're gonna be in Blacksburg. I had to order a new phone, but it should be in tomorrow. I'll give you a text when I get it.
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Your oil flow looks similar to mine below. That's 30psi engine pressure, 900rpm idle, -3an line and no restrictor on a Garrett journal bearing t3/t4. I ran it that way for 3k frequently boosting miles and never had issues.
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Thanks m2cupcar, the comparison is good to see. I'm not sure what the deal is, but I'm going to try a pop rivet restriction fix. I've put a good number of miles on the car and haven't had significant losses, so we will see if smoke lessens.
So who has driven one of these before?!? https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1374118933 I had the enormously lucky opportunity to wield this beast when visiting my family. Their close friend has one of them and we bonded over my miata accomplishments. I guess I gave off a good degree of competency because after we talked and he drove me around, he stopped and asked me if I wanted to drive. It's really a crazy machine. 1st gear tops at 66 mph and you accelerate to that in no time. We weren't on roads where I could comfortably test the handling and brakes. Lets just say the threshold is way way high. The sound is amazing. The biggest downfall is also a strength. It handles all these extreme conditions like speed, cornering, and braking so well that it seems like you aren't going fast or driving hard. The miata sometimes makes me feel like I'm in more extreme circumstances. But yeah, it was awesome. I also got a chance to put in an aluminum ebay radiator. It's helped quite a bit with the heat of the south since my move. Lifter tick is way down on hot restarts and I can see oil pressure sit a little higher (from being cooler?) instead of dropping on long cruises. Did a gauge face trade with the Brain and now my interior chi is grand. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1374118933 |
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4000k mile update time and things have been going fabulously.
Time for a brake upgrade from the axxis ULTs on the front and ??? in the rear (bought the 1.8 setup lightly used 2 yrs ago). I'm going for the 949 stage 1 upgrade for 1.8 brakes and am researching Carbotech pads heavily since they're in the kit but still cannot quite decide. Driving will be mostly street duty with some autox and maybe track in the near future. Leaning away from the 1521 since I want something more aggressive, but the AX6 doesn't sound the greatest from what I've read being nonlinear and such. This leads me to the XP8s which people have said have good streetability minus noise. Any experiences here? Hawk HP+ is in the back of my head if I don't do Carbotech. Changed the oil out to t6 rotella and I seem to be burning less now! I think the Mobil 1 was not up to the task, especially with the heat before the new radiator was put in. Too slow of a loss for my ass to throw a rivet or another fix for this but need to get on it soon. Will be dyno'ed finally in September at the VA meet! Also, high miles FTW https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1376178372 |
Hawk HP+'s dust and squeal like a mofo, but if you're ok with the noise and constantly having break dust on you're front wheels especially, then you will absolutely love them. They are a night and day difference from stock pads. Btw. I'll fill you in on my hectic life real soon.
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When I ran Mobil 1 I had lifter tick and leaks galore. I switched to Rotella and the leaks lessened and I haven't heard lifter tick once in 15k miles. Love it
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Originally Posted by mx5autoxer
(Post 1042726)
Hawk HP+'s dust and squeal like a mofo, but if you're ok with the noise and constantly having break dust on you're front wheels especially, then you will absolutely love them. They are a night and day difference from stock pads. Btw. I'll fill you in on my hectic life real soon.
I'm mostly worried about noise, but I can compromise for braking ability. How do you like them for quick stops in the middle of winter when cold? I must hear of these life details... it seems we are moving in opposite directions geographically.
Originally Posted by thasac
(Post 1042880)
When I ran Mobil 1 I had lifter tick and leaks galore. I switched to Rotella and the leaks lessened and I haven't heard lifter tick once in 15k miles. Love it
Thanks for the input, this stuff does rock. I tried out the M1 instead of my usual Valvoline synth when I first installed the turbo since it was on sale with my oil filter but I won't be trying it again. T6 from here on out, especially with ma test pipe in place. |
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I'm going on the dyno this Saturday at the MT meat in VA finally! It will be pulls only, so no spark tuning. However, I'm wanting to make some tuning adjustments after looking at a local guy's spark map as provided in a brain-built MS. The MSPNP base map I have looks super conservative when I compared them. Brain has called his map conservative... Any suggestions on safe adjustments I can make for a little more powah? I've been doing lots of reading but I'm not about to go make some changes and fail to consider a difference here or there between setups and melt shit, so please take my build specs into consideration.
Mine is on top and Brain's provided map is on bottom. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1379045845 |
Originally Posted by petrolmed
(Post 1052950)
...MT meat in VA...
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Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1052955)
Oh dear...
Any comments regarding the maps above on how to not be so retarded? |
See you on the rollers Saturday!
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I'd run brian's map and just pull a degree from it or two from boost rows. Its better because you shouldn't have same timing across the whole rpm range - it should increase towards redline and you're less likely to detonate in higher rpm ranges.
You get 3 pulls so you can do 1 pull with that map, 1 pull with -2* timing, etc. |
Good to meet you Matt!
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So, spill the beans.
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I think it made close to 200, but never quite over it. He played with timing a bit and it made more power. I think it was good for a small turbo on a 1.6 :)
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Give me your address so I can mail out the intercooler first thing tomorrow. You can pay me whenever. That baby tooth needs to go.
Did you end up bumping a degree in the boost cells or just across the board? The stock DIY map is pretty tame. |
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Thanks for the video Vince! Nice to meet you, soviet, IcantDo55, and everyone else.
I am pretty happy with the results, but it has left me wanting to make several adjustments and left a sour taste in my mouth because of a few things. First, results: 183 whp @ 6400 and 162 wtq @ 4600 at 165 kPa. Starting the pull at 2800 RPM in 4th gave full boost by 3800. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380473106 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1380473106 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1379268452 Log is from the 2nd run. The dip in the curve coincides with the log's drop in boost from 172 kPa to 160 then returning to 165, which doesn't happen on the street. The operator said its harder to hold boost on the dyno than on the street so I'd think it's safe to say you can extrapolate the peaks in the curve at 4600 and 5800 to eliminate the dip at 5300. I didn't play with boost at all since there was a sense of pressure on getting my runs in. Takes too long to adjust the MBC and I also haven't tuned enough in the higher cells so I planned on just optimizing the setting I was at. Didn't want to go too far and do something unsafe lol. The second run included a bump of 2* in boost cells from the PnP map made to match the pattern of Brain's with increasing RPM. Didn't yield too much change. The log should read 18* not 16* which brings me to my next scientific conclusion... The IC is limiting my little hot air turbo. You can look at the delta T in the log and see over a 4th gear pull there's a significant change. So much so that what I thought was still reasonable timing (an extra degree from the second run, almost at Brain's timing settings) gave me some delicious detonation due to high IATs and we stopped the run at 5500. The curve was no different from the second run. What a terrifying noise, especially when 3 hours from home. My pistons might resemble some melty mac-and-cheese a little more now lol. Hate to think what may have happened at higher/hotter boost. No adverse effects were noticed after and I made the drive home so time will tell. At least I know other sounds that I've heard in the past were not det! The 2nd run seemed smooth but maybe more minute det happened there too :cry: Basically, the log reads 16* because after the third run I returned the tune to the basemap settings as I had shit my pants and wanted to make it home. Some positive notes however: These are about the numbers I was expecting. AFRs were good, if a bit rich so that makes me feel more fuzzy inside about my tuning abilities. Knowing that a larger IC would ghetto stomp the IATs for mo powah, which would also let me run the proper timing, and that boost didn't hold perfectly also makes me happy all things considered. I can probably expect 200 whp next time around with those issues fixed. Running higher boost might get me past it, or at least that's what I'll tell myself at night. I definitely learned a lot about the car and about timing, even if it was the hard way. Also, I got to see a 458 whp miata on the dyno. To do list: Josh's IC and streamlining hot side charge pipes, EBC for more consistent and better control, and some ducting. |
They probably forgot to turn the fan on, again.
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Originally Posted by soviet
(Post 1053597)
They probably forgot to turn the fan on, again.
Either way, the IC bottleneck is going to be resolved soon and boost will thus go up. I'll get a virtual dyno posted that I captured the other day using 3rd for a baseline and observe changes from there. Then change brakes, EBC, possibly suspension, fix my passenger window cable, the list goes on. I got NAPA rotors, Axxis ULT pads, and 949 lines that are going on with some ATE fluid. I thought I had ULTs on, but they are some unheard of brand... something like VGX silent silver. |
I'd rather have a little too much IC and loose a little psi and spool then run out of IC. That's why I got the #2 IC with my begi kit. I think its rated at 320 bhp which is ~50 more than I need, but the #1 was good for like 240 bhp which I'm definitely over. Let me know how you like the Axxis pads. I might try those next.
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Originally Posted by mx5autoxer
(Post 1055215)
I'd rather have a little too much IC and loose a little psi and spool then run out of IC. That's why I got the #2 IC with my begi kit. I think its rated at 320 bhp which is ~50 more than I need, but the #1 was good for like 240 bhp which I'm definitely over. Let me know how you like the Axxis pads. I might try those next.
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I want to go 1.8 in the future.
BUT There is a fully disassembled 1.6 for sale at $300 that includes new bearings, gaskets, rings, pumps, belts, a head with machine work, honed block, complete from oil pan to valve cover. Any comments on if its worth the time investment for a stronger rod rebuild as an intermediate solution? Halfway want it to have a refreshed, stronger backup motor for easy swap in whenever my original might go. Also would be good to learn miata motors more intimately. Ideally I want to do a stock piston, new rod refresh on a 1.8. All that's stopping me there is the higher motor cost, conversion kit cost, sourcing of 1.8 begi manifold, and then the downtime of having DP/exh made to fit the slight changes. I drive this car every day. I really don't have my mind made up so any input is appreciated. |
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Also, been cannibalizing vipers' car for some lower air temp goodness. I hope to get quality comparison datalogs up in the next few weeks when I can install it with the pictured, more improved hotside IC routing. It will remove 3 90* bends right at the turbo outlet...
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383093240 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383093240 Got some other goodies too. PS, Axxis ULT pads have been out of stock for the past 1.5 months. Should finally have mine in and on the car by the end of November. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1383093240 |
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