petrolmed

iTrader: (8)

I’ve had my 1991 1.6L Miata for about 4 years and it didn’t take long to realize I was going to upgrade and eventually turbo it. I started out long ago intending on street driving only, but it will see autocross and maybe some track days eventually.

I knew next to nothing about the car or mechanics starting out, so I did a crap ton of reading this site while picking up parts here and there. I should note that this research all occurred after I had already owned the car a year or two. It ended up being one of the 1991.5 long nose 1.6s… which was bittersweet since it’s still a 1.6. It was and still is a blast to drive pre-turbo. This makes me wonder what the 1.8 does to the car, especially after boost.


This is my very first picture of the classic red (pink) car, right before purchase many moons ago at 155k miles.



Another photo right after purchase, because part time car detailer. It is surprising what some wax will do to old paint.



The interior was actually pretty gross and neglected. I took about 3-4 full car details for the crud to dissipate. There’s something gross about someone else’s filth being in your car, let alone 6+? years worth of it.


3 years ago, the car cleaned up even better after a much needed rust repair, new top, and bumper repaint thanks to jeep owners not paying attention.



See my thread for rust repair details and pictures here: https://www.miataturbo.net/general-m...ctorial-64629/


1.8 BIG BRAKE KITTT omg




I had an ACT street clutch put in around the same time, fantasizing about actually going turbo one day.

Years back, I thought 15x7s were wide due to lack of research and pronounced disposition towards being cheap as hell back then.



Next to 14x6 seven spokes I never ended up using as an upgrade from daisies.



Despite the narrower width, I do LOVE the Yoko S.drives (195s). They’re good in the dry and absolutely killer in wet conditions.



I picked up some used Koni Sports to go with the new wheels on the car. This isn’t an optimal suspension setup, but it is still a night and day difference from stock.



M2 Sport DD to save my noggin.


Then the real bug bit me last summer and I started prepping for future boost!


I nabbed a 4.1 Torsen swap for a good deal.



Got some outdated technology, but it is easy to work with for this noob.



Dirty old SR20 t25:



Finally I pried it apart after hours of PB blaster and intense wrench action.




Lightly used begi manifold:



Charge piping with a TiAL BOV included for a GOOD deal.



Tuning during LC-1 and MS installation:


I’ve got to say that I love me some tuning. It’s so much fun to tinker with the engine parameters and see what improves and changes, especially after getting over the learning curve and while N/A. The info on this site really made it possible and sound realistic enough for me to take the plunge. I highly recommend MS installs while N/A for those new to tuning. I did it without knowing a thing. It has made the car noticeably more lively and fun to drive and I understand the car’s inner workings so much more. However, cold start tuning blows massively.


Ricer



Rebuilt the snail:






Big thanks to the MT members who I bought stuff from used and saved cash. The savings allowed for this full 3" Artech stainless exhaust system:

5x11x22 muffler for stealth DD


I debated a while on getting some of the super cheap used begi setups on the classifieds. After reading and comparing the cost effectiveness, I went with this Artech 3” glory with 5x11x22 magnaflow V-band goodness with a cat for whenever I might need it.


Also, some expensive extruded space metal to hold my crap together forever.



As well as 650cc FICs



“Enjoying” stock for a little while longer. Still running strong at 187k miles

petrolmed

iTrader: (8)

I had a grad student friend who does wedding photos take some pictures. She had never photographed cars before but I think they turned out pretty good.
















Wish I had straightened the center caps







…and detailed a little better



Injectors go in this weekend as long as the weather stays nice as predicted. Once that’s complete and the Artech exhaust hits my doorstep, I’ll be going crazy every day I’m not boosted.

I’m looking forward to posting more pictures and videos post turbo install. Hopefully tuning for boost goes well and the motor holds up nicely (if not, 1.8)! The goal is to be finished up by the end of March or early April.

I’ve spotted quite a few other newer members with good quality sr20 t25 builds. Hopefully we can help and learn from each other. It’s been a long journey for me so far and I’m so excited to see it come to fruition after all of the planning and research. I have MT.net to thank as well as it’s constant entertainment.

viperormiata

iTrader: (24)

Your car makes me want to set mine on fire.

RyanRaduechel

iTrader: (10)

It is a very clean car, off to a good start. So I am guessing you are keeping the LNC 1.6 and boosting it? I'd like to see this thing with a hardtop on it. Then I would be very happy.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Good show! I've been digging my S.drives as daily tires for a while now as well. I'm sure a 195 feels better on a x7 than they probably feel on my stock x6s too. Make me want more rims...

How tough was the rebuild on that SR20? What rebuild kit did you end up using? I also didn't realize ARtech built downpipes to match the BEGi stuff. Beautiful as always! Subbed for more win.

petrolmed

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the compliments! Its in pretty good shape, but like all of our 20ish year old cars, it has its weak points.

Ryan: Yep, I'm sticking with the 1.6 until it doesn't work any more haha. I hope it lasts because I want to accumulate monies for a 1.8 that has rods at least. If it fails too soon, I fear I'll cheap out and be temped to do another stock 1.6. I've gotten the quality supporting mods I want for this build and it cost me a little extra that's for sure!

E02K: The rebuild wasn't bad at all. The most difficult part is cracking that exhaust housing loose. Once those 4 bolts are out its easy following all of the internet's written guides. I used the gpop t25 rebuild kit. It's the same as yours (that you snagged just before me in the classifieds lol), new from the shop. Artech seems to do whatever you want if it is physically possible.




So I got the injectors in and they're running quite well. With the settings adjusted, it was idling and running nasty rich on the old table. I went around autotuning VE and things settled down to target AFRs again. Then I went for a drive later and it was nasty lean... I reloaded the original VE table and it was near perfect, weird. I also wasn't hitting overrun because my full vacuum load was like 35 kpa and now its back to 12, weird again. I'll keep tabs on this for possible vacuum leak.

I also installed my boost gauge and wired in my DB gauge's dimmer function at the red/black radio wire. The db was dimming fine until I wired the autometer's bulb in and now my dash and tail lights are out. Time to chase fuses and I hope that solves it!

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Aww, now I has a sad. It wasn't my intent to swoop but I guess it all worked out in the end. I need to bolt down my vice before I crack my T25.

Yeah, Abe is some sort of wizard. I should never doubt his 1337 5k1ll2

For the nasty lean on restart, were you heatsoaked and where is your IAT located? Ambient temps? Could this be the infamous GAIR/GAMMAE table & sensor heatsoak issue? I've read this can be brutal with the Gen 1 systems, and I even ran into this with my DIYPNP. Just a thought, I'm an unrepentant MS

mx5autoxer

iTrader: (1)

Off to a great start. I would have been there helping if I wasn't drilling and tapping my slave cylinder mounting bolt . BTW there's an autox in Verona next weekend. I'll probably go, car running or not.

petrolmed

iTrader: (8)

It ok I do has the turbo rebuilt, just make sure you use your kit! I wish I had a vice laying around to hold mine when I was sweating away at it.

My logs didn't indicate any extreme AITs or Gair/gammae during the lean conditions. It continued as I drove around and AITs came down. I think it was from the initial autotune that brought my VE values way down from that original table. Oh well, all seems good now.


Cool, I'll try and go dependent on if I pick up my summer tires from storage in time. The weather is demanding it right about now even for street use! You come over and help with the turbo install? It will be happening soon and will be simpler than doing it from scratch since I've done some preliminary work.





Regarding the dash lights and such, I figured that one out. I had checked the 'meter' fuse which was intact and that threw me off. I later read that the 'tail' fuse is in the same circuit, so I checked that one and it was blown. Replaced it, and now my dash and running lights work again, plus AFRs dim and the boost gauge illuminates as intended! Woo!


I'm hoping for some better gas mileage from the ev14s. I'm assuming they are more efficient than 21 year old stockers, especially cyl 3.







BTW: If anyone wants a blue Innovate DB gauge in place of their red one, I'll swap the gauge only with you. It's even got the plastic cover on the face still!

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

We are FIC 650 injector bros! I'm interested to see what kind of additional efficiency you see with the EV14s. How's the idle currently?

petrolmed

iTrader: (8)

Hell yeah we are! I debated forever on if I should get them or blow even more $$ on IDs. IDs are probably better but for my purposes, FIC all the way. They are great so far and idle just as good and maybe better than stock. Keep in mind batch fire 1.6L with MS1 lol.

I've occasionally forgotten to filter out idle cells from tuning and it brings idle AFRs to like 16.0 or so and it can hold that at just under 1k RPMs with little fuss. They are happiest idling at high 13s or low 14s and thats where I keep them.

redturbomiata

iTrader: (5)

we have a very similar build, sr20 turbo, begi manifold, fic 650's. only differences i have a 1.8 and an ms3. car looks good though, keep up the good work.

petrolmed

iTrader: (8)

Starting to make some progress. Got IC routing and mounting pretty much figured out and the stock parts off the car. The manifold, turbo and exhaust are going on as soon as I drill and tap. Should be finished up by Wednesday I hope!

The injectors have been running great. Got my MPGs up pretty high on a trip to Raleigh and to Charlottesville so I'm satisfied. No real difference to report in the pathetic 0-25 mph stop-go traffic of Blacksburg.


A little update to keep me on track:


Received goodies some time back










Functional wastegate bracket






I have the white spring, hooray!













Blue state post :(

curly

iTrader: (25)

Nice wastegate bracket design. Curly Design Inc.

petrolmed

iTrader: (8)

^^^^^ ding ding ding! Thanks for that curly, I like the design a lot. It is real secure and allows for some adjustability. Also, Brain's license plate bracket is a winner, although needing front plates is poo. You guys make copycatting easy.


Some more baby steps:


I finally got the ***** to drill and tap the oil pan for the return fitting. Flushed the thing out with mineral spirits and now she sits with some cheap oil waiting to get run and drained. It was nice practicing drilling and tapping the IC piping for a new temp sensor location and for the wastegate signal source first. Can I rely on the sensor and signal fitting's NPT threads to seal well or should some RTV sealant or something go in there?

All my vital lines and hoses are now wrapped up with some insulating and reflective tape to protect from turbo heat so I can check that off now. Each step is nice to get out of the way with my erratic schedule. I only have an hour or two at a time to do things.





Where's Waldo?










There he is! Quite stealthy, that one.







I finalized mounting the IC only after one of the hood latch bolts snapped when I slipped the bracket behind it and tightened. Had to take the whole bumper off just to get the turd out which luckily moved easily by hand, no drilling needed!


I'm excited to see how the little IC does. Brain keeps waffling on how much he liked it for the boost response but naturally it won't genereate as much temp difference. The rest of the piping is actually finalized now with the sensors in place, excluding of course the need for a reducing coupler from the tiny *** turbo outlet to piping diameter.


TiAL BOV is routed to the brake booster line with a 5/16" line. I hope its wide and short enough for it open quickly off throttle.

Is it necessary to drain the whole coolant system to get the water fittings attached or will it stop draining from the tiny hose to be removed?


I hope to keep making progress and finish up by the weekend. Exhaust or at least turbo and manifold should be on tomorrow.

ACiFiC

does ART tech have a pre-made jig for the begi mani? or you sent yours in?

petrolmed

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, Abe @ ARTech has a jig for fabricating around a begi manifold. That way you don't need to ship it. Its for a 1.8L, but he mentioned that he wouldn't need my 1.6 one since they are so similar.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I has red and would rather have blue...

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

What's that looped line in the bracket in the picture of your latest haul?

MicaCeli

iTrader: (1)

Water line bracket and lines. ARTech stuff is purty awesome.