I'm slowly plugging away at the disassembly portion of my swap project. One thing I keep forgetting to ask those of you who are already driving yours is about cruise control. Do any of you have cc? Did you retain the factory vacuum operated system to physically move the gas pedal or is there a way to do it electronically through the gm parts?

No cruise on the LFX - factory system won't work on an electronic throttle. I know on the LSx they have some aftermarket cruise systems that need to tap into the clutch and brake switches and read the VSS signal from the ECM for speed, I think they tap into the electronic throttle. I don't think any are available for the E39 yet, just have to wait for the market to catch up.

Man, really great write up of the 'lectrical bits. Just writing the post seems daunting

I've been driving my LFX NC for the summer now but forgot until recently about a major CEL I need to correct, which I am pretty sure is wiring.
P0018 and 19- Cam position correlation.
I thought I read that someone else had a cam position wiring issue. Anybody recall the post or have a thought on how to diagnose?
....or any thoughts on reluctor wheel skippng a tooth https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=498370


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f018049c3f.jpg

What an awesome build! Great work sir!

Great info on the 2014 CTS coolant pipe working! Got one new for $30 online. It looks like you just heated it up and bent it. Any issues kinking when you bent it? I'm debating on heating/bending or cutting and welding in a pie cut to get the proper angle on the outlet up front.

No issues with the bend, cherry red and stuck a pipe in to fulcrum it over. If we had to do it over again, we'd probably cut the pipe shorter to make it a little easier to remove - it's very difficult to remove while the engine is in the car. Making it two piece, we'd probably also extend it closer to the rad inlet - if we had extended it further, it would have been impossible to snake through without removing the exhaust or alternator.

Are you referring to the cam angle sensor plugs being reversed on the driver's side head?

Love it, great idea! So cut and weld it to make the pipe extend all the way over making the rubber hose a short connection to the radiator. I'm gonna say screw it and make it one piece.

You got me thinking about tig welding the upper outlet coming off the front of the motor and extending that to the radiator as well.

Great build . Been very helpful. My lfx is done with pretty much all V8Roadsters parts, including wire harness and ECU.
My big issue is throttle hang. When driving gently, when shifting, the throttle will take a couple of seconds to return to idle.
Not that big of a deal to learn a driving style. However when running the car to redline that couple of seconds at high rpm
is another story. I’ve replaced the throttle body, pedal assembly, added a clutch switch wired to the ECU, and V8Roadsters
just did a complete new tune. Nothing seems to help. I unhooked the VSS and instantly fixed the problem but created other
worse issues. Any suggestions?

I asked V8R about the clutch switch and I think I recall them saying something like one out of every four cars has an issue like this. Maybe try a new ECU since they aren't that expensive.

Yup, my understanding is it's in the ECU: something about smoothing out torque changes when shifting, if I remember, and mine does it too. On the Camaro sites the guys were talking about programing that feature out of the ECU, but it has been a year since I was reading up on it, and can't remember exact details. You might goole it, and find the Chevy site discussions.

Yeah, I *think* it's related to DFCO, deceleration fuel cutoff. Not an uncommon problem but not one that's easily tuned.

Also, where is your MAF located? It needs to be close (but not too close) to the throttle body.

My other issue is connecting the AC lines. Has anybody run the lines up from the compressor or just forward?
Any great ideas how attack?

The MAF is about 12” from the throttle plate. I’ve moved a couple of times with no change.

What is the actual distance from the TB it should be?

I think 6 to 10... Probably want to call v8r to verify.

... started writing a reply, scrolled up, lost the reply. Grr. Also since Google killed Picasa, it's made finding my photos much more difficult. Grr.

I should probably make it a section. But long story short - looked at other GM suction/discharge pipes, found it's a standard (denso?) connection. Ordered LS2 / LS3 90 degree adapters from hawks motorsports, discovered they were too tight and would run directly into the belt, ordered the other orientation, they would run into the exhaust (with a bit of room if we could put a 90 on the hose fitting) but then we'd have to sneak it over the engine to reach the condenser/evap, and the NA is really tight around the frame rails. Ordered another set off ebay from another GM vehicle (hurrah for standards) - that one ran into the power steering stainless line. Long story short - ended up welding some fittings from "ne1acfittings" on ebay to the chopped up Camaro discharge/suction tubes (AIOB-10) 5/8" Tube x Male Insert O-Ring Aluminum Braze Nut and (AIOB-8) 1/2" Tube x Male Insert O-Ring Aluminum Braze Nut - tig welding is so damn cool. I think I did need to tweak the pipes every so gently. Chopped up and welded the stock hardlines with the same fittings, retaining the stock schrader ports and high/low pressure switch, then got a/c hoses made from a local A/C shop (who was an employer of my highschool friend that taught me how to wrench). It's just recently warmed up in Georgia and I'm happy to report the A/C lines held pressure over the winter.


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b0f090365f.jpg

Unfortunately, this is the best picture of the manifold I have, and I damaged my phone camera last week (Grr). The hoses did need some zipties and mounting points around the radiator. I'm happy with how it came out, happy that it still works, but now that I'm more comfortable with welding aluminum, I'd probably try my hand at gathering more aluminum tubing and making the hard line longer / multiple pieces (hose is way thicker than hard line).

missed this reply. I wasnt sure what I was referring to at that time but after investigation I found that my harness had been built with those wires miswired and reversed, presumably by V8R but maybe Chevy. I am using the ~$1100 harness from V8R. I altered the wires as needed but have not put any miles on the car yet to see if the codes will clear. They are 'permanent' ones that cannot be cleared by reflash , they must be corrected then drive cycled out.

Adam

That sucks. Which cam sensor wires was it and how did you figure it out? I've got a V8R harness being built right now.

Hi, It's me Dne', here to see what you've been up to! I'll be watching!!