Prepping for turbo build
#741
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What do you have left to get done on your motor?
I know an exhaust leak isn't the end of the world, but I'm just terrified of going through what Curly has been through. He has taken his flange down so many times it just keeps getting thinner and thinner
#743
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Yeah thats a good idea thanks. Everything has been pretty good with the car since I got the turbo stuff set up back in October(Not that i've put that many miles on it in the freezing NJ winter) ... Really really hoping that its just something that needs to be tightened up. I'll have it on the lift on Sunday to see where its coming from.
#745
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The gasket was new when installed but its an aftermarket one. But yeah, If it's leaking from the flange I was thinking about ordering a new OEM gasket and tightening from the inside out. I'm not entirely sure I did it that way the first time
#746
I'm waiting on a coolant bypass line, and timing belt. Figure out sequential wiring for the injectors before the intake manifold goes on (otherwise wires are inaccessible after install) then slap the turbo/manifold on, make some water and oil lines and then replace all the VVT orings. and. and.and......
cry when everything starts leaking. but at least it will be leaking in one piece, all together.
#747
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I'll give you a 4.1 torsen (did you come off a 4.1?) with poly bushings
I'm waiting on a coolant bypass line, and timing belt. Figure out sequential wiring for the injectors before the intake manifold goes on (otherwise wires are inaccessible after install) then slap the turbo/manifold on, make some water and oil lines and then replace all the VVT orings. and. and.and......
cry when everything starts leaking. but at least it will be leaking in one piece, all together.
I'm waiting on a coolant bypass line, and timing belt. Figure out sequential wiring for the injectors before the intake manifold goes on (otherwise wires are inaccessible after install) then slap the turbo/manifold on, make some water and oil lines and then replace all the VVT orings. and. and.and......
cry when everything starts leaking. but at least it will be leaking in one piece, all together.
Haha I actually have brand new Poly bushings going in mine as soon as I can finally get these damn stock ones hammered out. I might have to bring it somewhere to have them pressed out.... Giving me some trouble :-/
Hahaha nothing is gonna leak!
#748
Do you have access to an air hammer? I think I pounded mine with a hammer and chisel (on the crease) to decrease the hoop stress and they fell right out.
knowing my luck, i'll be pulling this motor out 4 times as well. everything leaks. or it doesn't start. I suck at wiring. Instead of just getting another bp4w head, I bought a VVT for cheaper, and a knock sensor, and converted from the 36-1 trigger to the 4 & 2-1 NB style for sequential. Just found out that Inj A is paired to cylinder 2/3 and Inj B is 1/4 meaning I have to split up 3 and 4 and swap 1 and 2.
Don't get me started on spark.
fmlfmlfml. we should meet up sometime this summer and take pics of the cars
knowing my luck, i'll be pulling this motor out 4 times as well. everything leaks. or it doesn't start. I suck at wiring. Instead of just getting another bp4w head, I bought a VVT for cheaper, and a knock sensor, and converted from the 36-1 trigger to the 4 & 2-1 NB style for sequential. Just found out that Inj A is paired to cylinder 2/3 and Inj B is 1/4 meaning I have to split up 3 and 4 and swap 1 and 2.
Don't get me started on spark.
fmlfmlfml. we should meet up sometime this summer and take pics of the cars
#754
Do you have access to an air hammer? I think I pounded mine with a hammer and chisel (on the crease) to decrease the hoop stress and they fell right out.
knowing my luck, i'll be pulling this motor out 4 times as well. everything leaks. or it doesn't start. I suck at wiring. Instead of just getting another bp4w head, I bought a VVT for cheaper, and a knock sensor, and converted from the 36-1 trigger to the 4 & 2-1 NB style for sequential. Just found out that Inj A is paired to cylinder 2/3 and Inj B is 1/4 meaning I have to split up 3 and 4 and swap 1 and 2.
Don't get me started on spark.
fmlfmlfml. we should meet up sometime this summer and take pics of the cars
knowing my luck, i'll be pulling this motor out 4 times as well. everything leaks. or it doesn't start. I suck at wiring. Instead of just getting another bp4w head, I bought a VVT for cheaper, and a knock sensor, and converted from the 36-1 trigger to the 4 & 2-1 NB style for sequential. Just found out that Inj A is paired to cylinder 2/3 and Inj B is 1/4 meaning I have to split up 3 and 4 and swap 1 and 2.
Don't get me started on spark.
fmlfmlfml. we should meet up sometime this summer and take pics of the cars
#755
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Yeah I have a torch in the shop. I will torch it on Sunday and hopefully have my leak figured out also. Hopefully the stars will align and I'll have a completely successful day haha
#760
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Forgot to update here but had the downpipe welded as I posted in my other thread... Came out very nice and the guy only wanted a case of beer in return for the weld.
I have a nice little list of things to get done this Sunday! Bringing it in to go up on the lift at work...
- Torsen swapped in
- Roll bar rear plates installed (Yeah, ive been driving occasionally without the rear of the rollbar bolted down... tisk tisk)
- Shifter rebuild
- Install new moog ball joints that have been in my box for over a year
- Install Walbro Fuel pump
- Look into an oil leak that looks like it's coming from the turbo oil drain
- Oil change/ swap out spark plugs
Ok so couple questions if anyone has time to answer...
1.) So for the oil drain leak... I used a roll of paper gasket and cut out one to match the oil drain flange. I used some RTV on both sides. Is there something else I should be using that wont leak? Only RTV or a metal gasket that is better quality?
2.) For my shifter rebuild... I didn't get a new lower rubber boot because I literally just put one on in October when I swapped the motor in. Is there a trick to getting these off without ripping/ ruining them? Every time I try to pull one off, it ends up ripping and falling apart and I have to get ANOTHER new one. I'm already on my 3rd after multiple trans swaps, clutch jobs, motor swaps, etc...
I have a nice little list of things to get done this Sunday! Bringing it in to go up on the lift at work...
- Torsen swapped in
- Roll bar rear plates installed (Yeah, ive been driving occasionally without the rear of the rollbar bolted down... tisk tisk)
- Shifter rebuild
- Install new moog ball joints that have been in my box for over a year
- Install Walbro Fuel pump
- Look into an oil leak that looks like it's coming from the turbo oil drain
- Oil change/ swap out spark plugs
Ok so couple questions if anyone has time to answer...
1.) So for the oil drain leak... I used a roll of paper gasket and cut out one to match the oil drain flange. I used some RTV on both sides. Is there something else I should be using that wont leak? Only RTV or a metal gasket that is better quality?
2.) For my shifter rebuild... I didn't get a new lower rubber boot because I literally just put one on in October when I swapped the motor in. Is there a trick to getting these off without ripping/ ruining them? Every time I try to pull one off, it ends up ripping and falling apart and I have to get ANOTHER new one. I'm already on my 3rd after multiple trans swaps, clutch jobs, motor swaps, etc...