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Old Jun 6, 2017 | 01:17 PM
  #541  
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Personally, I would never install a used clutch, but that's just me.

The pressure plate, disk, and flywheel need time to bed and mate together, IMHO. One should go easy on any clutch components, which have not previously been run together, for around 500 miles, methinks.
Old Jun 6, 2017 | 02:08 PM
  #542  
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
Clutch is new, but only to me. Was run for a year before I bought it. It's been broken in.

I didn't think it had to be re-broken in. Please correct me if I'm wrong! Eek.
if the flywheel was surfaced it should get some bed in time I think. I'm just jealous because I'm breaking in my new clutch driving like an old lady.
Old Jun 6, 2017 | 02:08 PM
  #543  
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Breaking in a clutch is overrated. The amount of people I know that break it in with double or triple our power by going straight to burnouts and the drag strip lol. As long as it isn't chattering or being bad off install, you shouldn't have an issue.
Old Jun 6, 2017 | 02:15 PM
  #544  
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"Clutch break in" for most commonly used materials is a myth. You're bedding it. Not breaking it in.

The "500 miles of easy driving" thing is just a way for most companies to ensure that you wear out a defective disk enough that they can deny warranty issues.
Old Jun 6, 2017 | 02:34 PM
  #545  
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I get the used clutch phobia, but I got a screaming deal on the parts I bought from that seller and made a bunch of money back getting rid of things I decided not to use.

I also got the receipt for the clutch. Car was running an m45 so limited power and it was only used for a few thousand miles. Should stay happy for a while. I trust the mechanic that did the work, even if he didn't do the rms or put in my stainless line lol.

Good to know re: break in.
I don't believe anything was resurfaced.
Old Jun 6, 2017 | 04:37 PM
  #546  
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Originally Posted by Lexzar
Breaking in a clutch is overrated. The amount of people I know that break it in with double or triple our power by going straight to burnouts and the drag strip lol. As long as it isn't chattering or being bad off install, you shouldn't have an issue.
Originally Posted by concealer404
"Clutch break in" for most commonly used materials is a myth. You're bedding it. Not breaking it in.

The "500 miles of easy driving" thing is just a way for most companies to ensure that you wear out a defective disk enough that they can deny warranty issues.
Agreed.

Originally Posted by ridethecliche
I get the used clutch phobia, but I got a screaming deal on the parts I bought from that seller and made a bunch of money back getting rid of things I decided not to use.

I also got the receipt for the clutch. Car was running an m45 so limited power and it was only used for a few thousand miles. Should stay happy for a while. I trust the mechanic that did the work, even if he didn't do the rms or put in my stainless line lol.

Good to know re: break in.
I don't believe anything was resurfaced.
If you're not resurfacing the flywheel/pp, you may consider roughing them up a touch with some 220. Just enough to knock the glaze off, not enough to really physically change the metal.
Old Jun 6, 2017 | 08:34 PM
  #547  
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That would probably have been a good idea, but I don't think it happened.

I'm about 99% certain that by the time I'll make enough power for any of this to make a difference, I'll likely have pulled the motor and can deal with it then if I'm not just installing a new clutch at that time. It showed absolutely no signs of slipping last night.

In other words, I trust this guy. Yolo.
Old Jun 6, 2017 | 10:14 PM
  #548  
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Originally Posted by ridethecliche
That would probably have been a good idea, but I don't think it happened.

I'm about 99% certain that by the time I'll make enough power for any of this to make a difference, I'll likely have pulled the motor and can deal with it then if I'm not just installing a new clutch at that time. It showed absolutely no signs of slipping last night.

In other words, I trust this guy. Yolo.
Don't worry, I would have ran it too. Its probably fine.
Old Jun 19, 2017 | 10:01 PM
  #549  
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Dang... No post in almost 2 weeks. It's like I'm busy or something. Yeesh.

I have a bit of change of plans with the car I suppose.

Not knowing how much time I'm going to have to work on things in the near future, I want to solidify the reliability of the car and get things together to make it a bit more fun.

I want to:
1) Add the tenders to the front suspension
2) Install ebc
3) Figure out my tune to get the car starting in the first crank cycle because right now it starts and then leans out and dies even though it was fine a few months ago and I hadn't changed any settings.
4) Get the car running at about 200rwhp and enjoy it and take it to a few autocrosses and instruction sessions.
5) Do a few things to get cooling addressed, namely the coolant reroute and an oil cooler.

That's all for now folks.
And in case you were wondering, surgery rotation is ******* awesome, but it's also hell.
Old Jun 19, 2017 | 11:16 PM
  #550  
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Good list. Maybe reorder it to 5, 3, 2, 1, 4?
Old Jun 20, 2017 | 04:53 AM
  #551  
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Originally Posted by Steve Dallas
Good list. Maybe reorder it to 5, 3, 2, 1, 4?
Sounds good!

List wasn't in a particular order! I like your arrangement though!
Old Jun 20, 2017 | 08:18 AM
  #552  
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Definitely do the reliability stuff, before you start sister-kissing and going out for HPDE instruction. That stuff is harder on the car than you might imagine--especially with boost.
Old Jun 20, 2017 | 10:39 AM
  #553  
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Yeah I think I'm going to add an air oil separator or something as well.

I'll start to think about adding power and going past 200 even all this stuff works and I have the money to build the block (rods+refresh minimum) and a 6 speed.

I'm fairly certain that the car will be a blast even at 200 and I'm really not interested in learning to drive on something well past my skill level.

Hopefully I'll be able to refresh the head over the winter. I think bytevenom just did his.
Old Jun 20, 2017 | 12:58 PM
  #554  
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Package finally mailed today. Sorry, sometimes life gets in the way.

I wanted to take a picture of the front of the box and the lady at the post office snapped at me and told me I wasn't allowed to take any pictures inside the post office. WTF? They damn sure take pictures of us when we are in there.

So here's a picture of something else that was in my phone.
Attached Thumbnails project ride the cheekbone-20170618_131928.jpg  
Old Jun 20, 2017 | 02:01 PM
  #555  
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Six, no apologies necessary. You stored it for a while after I bought it and I'm not going to be able to install it for a bit.

So is that jacket included too? Heh.
Old Jun 20, 2017 | 03:08 PM
  #556  
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It's in the Mighty Eighth Air Force Museum in Savannah Georgia. I was there Sunday
Old Jun 20, 2017 | 03:21 PM
  #557  
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So that's a no, huh?
Well now you should be sorry. You got my hopes up!
Old Jun 23, 2017 | 10:34 PM
  #558  
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Over the last few days:

Sold wheels, diff, and header. Have some cash kicking around now. Most of it paid off the work my daily needed recently.

Looking forward to installing six shooters oil cooler and potentially an air oil separator in the next couple of weeks. Trying to figure out which AOS i should get. I wonder if the oil cooler will drop oil pressure a little bit and decrease the leak from the turbo seal...
Old Jun 24, 2017 | 07:34 AM
  #559  
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I tested that oil cooler and those lines for a drop in pressure by measuring with or without the sandwich plate and found there to be no apparent difference. This was measured at the factory pressure sensor location down stream of all the shenanigans. You see, I was curious about the same thing.
Old Jun 24, 2017 | 02:56 PM
  #560  
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Originally Posted by sixshooter
I tested that oil cooler and those lines for a drop in pressure by measuring with or without the sandwich plate and found there to be no apparent difference. This was measured at the factory pressure sensor location down stream of all the shenanigans. You see, I was curious about the same thing.
Hmm. Maybe setting up an air oil separator and recirculating the ish from the crankcase will help with the pressure to the turbo if it's being caused by blowby.



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