Flow limited on the compressor means you won't gain by turning up the boost, flow limited at the head does not impose that restriction.

--Ian

 

Yeah, that's what I meant.


Rish, I was at -0.5-1* from MBT on the ignition map you are running. I doubt there is any more in it without adding any more boost.

 

I'm actually not sure how much I can trust the knock sensor now that the driveline is changed so drastically.

With my old setup, I did a few pulls with the timing map as it was and then again by adding and pulling 5 degrees. I definitely went past mbt because I gained power when I pulled timing. I actually have the pulls from that. Knock sensor was reading super high on the pull that lost power with added timing

Point being, I'm not sure what the readings mean here. They're pretty low through all of these relatively high hp pulls. I wouldn't mess with the map too much other than to pull timing unless I had dyno time. I drive this car everywhere so I have to account for less than perfect gas.

To test the knock sensor, I might mix in a couple of gallons of 91 when I fill up from empty to see if that changes things at all. There's way less 93 where my folks live in PA so that's a pain in the ***.

I might actually drive the car to VT for a residency interview in a week and a half. I've put about 2-2.5k on the new motor and it's going pretty strong.

 

I wouldn't risk it.
You should definitely det can with pump gas.
For 80$ you can get a decent knock detection setup, headphones included.
Knock Detection Tool / Adapter Cable, EFI Express

Looking at your ignition table, I'd bet you have some knock in there.

 

Can anyone offer any advice as to what VVT is doing on the logs and how to fix that? It looks like duty and angle are oscillating pretty hard and don't really ever quite settle in. There's probably some more gains to be had there, but mostly I just want things to be stable.

My idle is also crap. It has consistently idled at 2k no matter what. Turns out that unplugging the idle valve doesn't do anything, so either the throttle doesn't fully close or there's a leak somewhere...but I think that would be pretty apparent if things are this high. I have a spare NB throttle I have sitting around that I might swap out at some point just to see if that's the issue. I may have JB welded the set screw on the throttle stop on the S2 clone because it moved on me once and scared the living **** out of me, so I might try filing that down just a hair to see if it's open just a hair even though I checked it 10 times before gluing the thing together.

I've seen knock on this knock sensor before and don't really see anything all that concerning. I may try to induce some pinging on some NA cells just to see what the knock sensor does.

 

I still want to hit 350, but this is as good a baseline as any. Not sure what was going on with EBC in the mid range (it's oscillating), but I have a feeling it's semi due to street vs dyno load. I had to sit in the trunk to combat wheelspin. The guy thought the clutch was slipping when he tried doing the first pull and I was like... nahhh bruhhh... Anyway.



Special thanks to stefanst and vtechkiller for all they've taught me offline.

I kinda want to set up meth injection so I can drive the car anywhere and not worry about a few pts of octane. I did load the car with some octane boost just to be safe. Have the 2nd half of the lucas **** left for the runs in the spring!

Edit: Also ditched the Silicone intakes BOV for a turbo smart so bye bye leaks at part throttle!

 

Most of the stuff they call octane boost doesn't do anything for premium

 

If you read the fine print on octane boost, when they say it raises octane 1 point, they mean 0.1.

 

I read a few places that tested it and the conclusion was that it raised the octane a point or so .
​​​​​​
I have 93 and figured it wouldn't hurt. I didn't change timing or anything for it. Just wanted to be a bit careful because I hadn't driven the car in well over a month.

In any event now I have some real dyno data and turns out that the virtual dyno estimate is pretty spot on.

 

As I'm sitting here bored over the winter planning out a few things to do next.

 

If you're just trying to optimize, just get a head refresh; new guides and seals, have the seats and valves touched up and just drop some heavier springs into it.

 

If you're just trying to optimize without breaking bank, just get a head refresh; new guides (if required) and seals, have the seats and valve angles touched up, drop in some heavier springs and have the valve clearances adjusted.

Unless you're absolutely replacing valves, then it might be reasonable to consider o/s options and new valve seats. This is just my opinion.

 

I'd have to get the head to the shop before I knew if it would need new valves etc right?

I have a feeling that it may be prudent to do that. AFAIK it's still on the stock valves and vteckiller rode this thing hard before me. He may have had some head work done well before he installed it though, so I can check with him. I have a feeling that it may need new bits though... which leaves me wondering if it makes more sense to just go O/S. I don't think it'll make a huge difference, but I'm about at the power level where it could help.

Like I said, I don't really plan on pushing the envelope any further. Car is fast enough. Just need to get some supporting mods etc done.

 

Take it to the machine shop, see what they say, and just order whatever valve floats your boat since you seem to want to be convinced to replace them.

I'm just having my valves polished for my head refresh. Don't want to spend if it ain't bent.

 

Fair point. I'll take it off and take it to them and see what they say. I'm honestly not even sure how much benefit I'd see from +1/+1 OS valves, but I know the cost would go up by like 3-4x easily. I am curious though if there's any decent data out there on it in terms of the performance benefit whether its for power torque or spool.

 

I figure this thread warrants an update... even though things haven't been all that exciting.


I've been working on a few things on the car lately, but been really busy with life. Residency interviews wrapped up and I'm submitting my rank list in the next week or so. I find out where I'm going to end up in mid march. Ugh.





This month is pretty light, thankfully, but next month is going to be brutal. I'm trying to take advantage of things by pulling my motor and trans to reseal the oil pan and address a bunch of the leaks that I've found with UV dye. It's a mess, but here goes. I'm also going to go through and update a few things, namely the cooling system. I got an Al undertray that I need to modify and fit and I also bought a used supermiata radiator with FM spal fans which I hope will help matters. Then there's the entire thing about fitting the oil cooler and lines... I might end up needing a smaller cooler unless I get one of the front crossbar deletes that folks here have been doing but I'm a little apprehensive about making that big of a modification to the body. It would make life a lot easier even though there's no going back.


My car has also been idling at 2k since I put on the squaretop and I have no idea why. This gives me a chance to go through and make sure everything is sealed etc. Such a PITA...


That's about it for now though. Hoping to make a fewwww other changes but I don't know if the car's going to be back on the road till late march - early may since I'm planning to go abroad all of april!

Oh yeah... head's going to go to the machine shop for a stock refresh as well. I'd love to get OS valves etc, but I just don't think the cost/benefit ratio works out in my favor. It would have been way easier to buy a modified head and sell mine but then I'd be a bit nervous about the piston interference issue. Soooo if someone sees a vvt head with OS valves FS anytime in the next few days I might have to jump on it lol.

 

Pulled the motor to address the oil leaks and get some head work done.

FM2 clutch looks trashed.

FML.

 

So any clutch recs for a 330-350 rwhp miata for dyno luls and 300ish +/- 30 rwhp for street driving?

Should I just grab an FM2 again or the 949 sprung puck? Can't throw down for the twin disk sadly. Any other considerations?

 

I have a vote!

 

Get an automatic.