budget racer

iTrader: (1)

if it had gotten in your eyes we'd be having a much more serious discussion right now.

PhantomRoadster

More on today...
Finished tapping the pan. I'm not really happy with it. It wasn't very tight in the pan.


Installed the intercooler. It took for ever since the tow hook holes were a bitch to get into. Also not sure if I worked the ac dryer correctly. The instructions were a little iffy on that.



Tapped the throttle body intercooler tube for the gm IAT. Might end up just getting a bung welded in just incase.


Blugged it for now until I install the Adaptronic.


I'm having a lot of trouble hooking up the turbo intercooler tubes. There is no room and its hitting the sway bar and ac lines. Having the one ac line disconnected helped but now there is no way in putting it back. Any suggestions? Am I supposed to be bending these lines to make room?

turotufas

iTrader: (7)

****** with the ac is dangerous. I started messing with it to make room. My dad was walking thru the garage bitched at me when he saw me. Its always under pressure.

PhantomRoadster

Finished a few more things today...

Rerouted my reroute back to the lower cooler hose.


I had to put my oil return line through alternator belt and wire it to the thermostat to keep it from touching the belt. The line was a little short and I didn't have many options with it.


Does it matter what two water lines the turbo connects to (thermostat or lower heater adapter? The Begi instructions didn't say.
As of now I have the water out turbo line to the thermostat and the water in line to the lower heater hose tube.


Should I worry if the ss lines are touching each other or other metal parts? They were a pain to keep from touching things.

ArtieParty

iTrader: (1)

Is your turbo clocked the right way? Just wondering which way the intercooler pipes go. Looks like it would be hitting the AC compressor the way its routed now.

dgmorr

iTrader: (4)

The SS lines will cut right through anything they're touching. I'd make sure they clear everything and use a lot of zip ties to make sure they don't go moving.

Glad to see I'm not the only n00b that is (will be) going through this

PhantomRoadster

The turbo seems to be clocked fine. The intercooler fits fine when the ac line is unhooked. Its when the ac line is connected that the tube doesn't fit.

dgmorr, I thought of that but wont the lines just cut the zip ties holding them?

micagreenmachine

Good pics... I never have the patience to take pics like that when I'm doing something to the car.

flipt86

iTrader: (4)

If I recall, water lines to turbo can go either way to and from thermostat.

PhantomRoadster

I'm taking so many pics so people can warn me if I **** up.

Today I pretty much finished up the kit.
Soldered and extended the oil pressure sender.


For some reason there was a small white tube taped to it. Any one know what this is or used for and if I should tape it back to the sender?


I broke the screw holding the ac line trying to bend it to make room for the intercooler tube. Plugged the hole with a rubber stopper from the depot. I'll cover it with duck tape tomorrow.


Ducktaped the ac line and tied it up to the power steering lines.


Where the hell do I put the air sensor? The directions say to plug it into the cool air box but the BegiS1 doesn't include the cool air box. I am assuming I can just leave it near the filter?


Everything about the turbo kit is pretty much installed now. Now I just have to finish a few odds and ends, like getting a new upper radiater hose, installing the turbo heat shield, replacing fluids and keeping the stainless lines from touching things.

Jfornachon

iTrader: (23)

I think you solved your A/C problem. Now that you broke the bolt just remove it all. Then you wot have to wory about it. Also there will be better flow to the radiator.

Have a great day,
Jared

PhantomRoadster

Ok, so I got the upper radiator hose and was finally able to fill it with fluids.
I have a small leak in the oil line to the turbo.




I think it has to do with such a hard bend on the line from being to short and angled. I could barely screw it in. I am going to get this adapter in -8an. Hopefully it will ease things a bit.


It only got worse when I started the car. There was a large leak at the heater hose on the firewall. I drained the fluid, added sealant to the tube and a second clamp. For now no more coolant leak.

The other problem was after the car warmed up, I revved the engine to make sure it wouldn't boost but after that my idle was high. First at 2000rpms then after turning the car off and on again it idled at 3000 rpms. I need help on this. I left this softly zip tied next to the air intake. Could this be the problem and where can I put this?


Last thing...I heard a type of knock sound coming from the engine after leaving the car on for a few minutes. Is this knock or a normal sound. I don't know how it could be knock or ping if I didn't drive the car or am running boost.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7653913...n/photostream/

kotomile

iTrader: (24)

For the stainless lines, I'd cover them with corrugated plastic tubing (any auto parts store). It may decrease the bling factor, but it's one of the better solutions.

Good luck on the more important issues!

I also vote to dump the AC.

ARTech

iTrader: (34)

Clear heat shrink tubing will work without taking the bling factor away.

PhantomRoadster

I tried starting the car today and the idle was back to stock. I figure I had to give time for the ecu to work out the changes. I drove it to the inspection station and the revs seemed a little off during driving. Little higher than normal and a little slow to lower during deceleration. I ended up failing the inspection for emissions "not ready". The guy said to drive it 200 miles and come back. I guess the 25 mile drive wasn't enough.

After the inspection I saw another leak by the distribution block at the oil in tubo line. I hate all these fittings. torque too hard and you strip it, torque too soft and you got a leak. Does anyone know which oil lines you can put sealant on? The directions said not to put it on the turbo lines because it would kill the turbo. So now I have two leaks, one at the oil pan line and one at the distribution block. I think both are caused by tight lines and not have an angled adapter. Anyone know where to get adapters/fittings for these lines?

The power steering is also making all sorts of noises.

ArtieParty

iTrader: (1)

Shore Motorsports

PhantomRoadster

I installed LC1 yesterday.


I soldered all the grounds to one single ground, then I ran to the engine bay. I hope this won't cause to much interference.



Tapped the red LC1 wire into the radio ign. positive wire (blue/black). Then soldered the gauge positive red wire to the LC1 red wire.


LC1 brown wire soldered to the gauge's yellow wire.


Soldered the led and push button to the black calibration wire.

Then soldered the other ends of the push button and led to the ground.

The LC1 has too many damn wires.


I wanted to solder the ground with the ecu ground (blk/yellow) but I couldn't seperate the funky lug with the other unknown ground. So I did exactly what the directions said not to. I bolted it on top of the ecu ground.



Installed. Not sure what I am going to do with the open hole. Most likely a new gauge or put in a flat section for the led and button.



Boost gauge was tapped into the warning light's positive and ground wires.

So far the gauge seems to be reading ok from what I know. It jumps from .2-.5 at a given rpm. I assume this normal.

southernmx5

iTrader: (1)

Looks good... drilling and tapping the oil drain is easy with the wheel off and no ac. lol someone took more pics than me.

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

Don't be surprised if you have issues with your LC-1 wired like that.

Power from your headunit and stacked & paired up grounds isn't cool. The heater ground should be separate from the sensor ground.

Power should be picked up from the same place as the ECU. Hell everything should be picked up from the ECU (i.e. grounds too). Just strip some of the sheath back and solder onto that then cover. You don't need to cut 'n' splice.

thymer

iTrader: (5)

FYI I've had significant issues with sourcing manifold pressure from that adapter you are using on the brake booster line. Boost control specifically and some issues with wi. I now source straight off the manifold.