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Red 91 NA8 swap, built motor, MK full kit touge build

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Old 08-29-2020, 01:29 AM
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Default Red 91 NA8 swap, built motor, MK full kit touge build

Don't know how to start this but here we go, hope everyone likes pictures. Traded in my auto kia for a 1991 bone stock 215k miles in 2014. Did a timing belt kit and slowly started making suspension mods.
-FM sway bars
-FM Vmaxx classics coil-overs
-TR motorsport 15x7 from Oregonmon
-Extended lower ball joints
-Roll bar
-Recaro Pole Position with schroth profi 2 harnesses
-Racing beat catback w/ raceland headers
-Red OEM hardtop




So now the fun part, around august of last year (2019) my clutch started slipping. I had bought a 1.8 out of a 1995 with 115k miles on it about 2-3 years back because it was a good deal and pretty much everything attached.

My initial plan was to just go NA with MS and do a turbo kit later, but it spiraled out of control quickly after talking with Lars about the MK kit. I ended up ordering the full kit from him.

The machine shop I used asked me how much boost I was going to run, I decided on 12 psi. He ended up doing a valve job, ARP head studs, Weisco pistons 9:1, K1 rods, line hone, full rotating assembly balanced etc probably forgetting stuff. Overbuilt for the amount of power i'm pushing but maybe it can take more in the future?



As the Engine was getting built I stripped the engine bay down and embarked on my first HVLP experience...

The main reason for this was because there was major corrosion and some rust from a break master leak. Probably an easier way to repair that but I had some time before the engine was done.

We have an automotive sherman williams in Portland, I went there armed with some research and picked a metallic grey after about an hour looking at all the colors.

Ended up turning out really well but many things I would do different.







Got the motor back, put the cams in. I then popped the oil pan off to get a return bung welded in to find the oil pump pickup not even bolted down... bolts in the new boundery oil pump stripped... I brought it back to him, he apologized a bunch and ended up refunding me for some other stuff. I made sure to locktight my oil squirters and redo rear main seal made sure everything tq was correct and put the pan back on hopefully never turning back.




So the rest goes as you would expect. Ill probably forget a few things.
- Supermiata coolant reroute kit
- MK full kit with MS3pro and ebc
- Stuff to redo the wiring harness in the engine bay
- Koyo rad
- Supermiata organic 300 ft/lb rated clutch
- Some lightweight flywheel I forget the brand (resurfaced)
- 4.3 torsen
- Moroso catch can
- Depowered Steering




As you can see the Turbone Lars sent me is quite large. He might have asked me at some point but it ended up working out in the end.

Celebratory Modelo when I got the motor in.



Ported the Turbone more on this later...




Couple little extras Dunlop Z3 tires to replace my corded tires. Inside I added innovate boost and wideband that came with the MK kit.




And just like that everything was together mainly thanks to Greg from Car Passion channel.

Worked with a local shop to finish the things i could not like alignment and tuning. @curly tuned it for me and overall helped me so much throughout this so huge shout out to him.

Ended up running into major boost creep issues on the first time dynoing it. Curly suggested an external setup as even if we bored out the internal waistgate more it wouldn't make a difference. It was making 300 at 5500 rpm at like 18-20psi if i remember correctly.

Thankfully the shop was more than prepared to take on the task and did an amazing job with the external setup with the Turbosmart gate.

Final product is 260/250 ish on around 16 PSI. Boost comes on around 3750 rpm ish.





I had to calculate RPM so hopefully that is correct.

Been driving it every day. Safe to say i'm a boost addict now.




I guess ill end with the current issue at hand.

Iv been getting used to the car on the 7 psi tune, but recently went to the 16 psi tune. I found that sometimes I would see 17 or 18 psi so I took a log. Everything looked normal. I took 2% out of boost control duty cycle at a time while doing pulls till it consistently as i could hit 16 ish psi. ended up taking out about 8%. So seems ok now, but has anyone else had to adjust boost controller settings 100 ish miles after dyno tune? Maybe due to IAT temp increase or something?

Last edited by ryry503; 08-29-2020 at 02:54 AM.
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Old 08-29-2020, 01:38 AM
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Forgot to add these.

FullBoostDynoRun34 - The highest power pull on the dyno
LoweringBCDutyAndTest - log from when i was lowering the duty cycle on boost controller
OverBoostOnly - log I took right after I saw 18 psi suspecting boost creep.
(ignore oil temp and pressure they are not calibrated yet)

highBoost.msq is the 16 PSI tune
no-boost.msq is the 7 PSI tune



Attached Files
File Type: mlg
FullBoostDynoRun34.mlg (497.0 KB, 30 views)
File Type: msq
high-boost.msq (285.5 KB, 29 views)
File Type: mlg
LoweringBCDutyAndTest.mlg (8.70 MB, 25 views)
File Type: msq
no-boost.msq (285.4 KB, 26 views)
File Type: mlg
OverBoostOnly.mlg (164.9 KB, 35 views)

Last edited by ryry503; 08-29-2020 at 01:56 AM. Reason: adding files
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Old 08-29-2020, 06:26 PM
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Haven't had a chance to try it myself yet, but you've now got a great bias table to try closed loop boost control. There's a great thread somewhere around here on setting it up properly, most of the steps you've already completed.
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Old 10-11-2020, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by curly
Haven't had a chance to try it myself yet, but you've now got a great bias table to try closed loop boost control. There's a great thread somewhere around here on setting it up properly, most of the steps you've already completed.
I think i found the thread you are talking about.

https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...oop-ebc-94391/

So the bias table you made gets copied over to the CL bias table, then i set max kpa across the target table. After that i can start setting it up with the steps outlined in the thread above. Ill do some more reading before attempting, but i think i got the just of it.

Someone recently mentioned that I could possibly run a line to the "dome" of the EWG to the third port of the EBC to hold the EWG closed. So far I cant find a thread on it here, would it even be worth it? So far i haven't found much here on it or maybe I'm just searching for the wrong thing
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Old 10-11-2020, 09:54 PM
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https://www.turbosmart.com/wp-conten...Y-12-rev-2.pdf

Scroll down to "Two port connection Method (1)".
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Old 10-23-2020, 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by SpartanSV
https://www.turbosmart.com/wp-conten...Y-12-rev-2.pdf

Scroll down to "Two port connection Method (1)".
Alright so looks like I just didn't do enough research. Boost is held perfectly after the big EWG, and it looks like 2 port method is just if your waist gate spring is being held open by too much boost pressure. So ill keep it simple and just do the closed loop settings.

I really need to concentrate on getting the power to the ground now since my last track day was a real eye opener to how bad the spring rates on the vmaxx classics are for my setup. Next purchase besides DIY aero parts will be MCS singles and suspension bushings since the last one I replaced was pushed out with my thumb.

Here's some track day content, it was awesome... driving out 100 ish miles to and from the track day down the beautiful Columbia Gorge was a treat within itself but it preforming so well and not having a mechanical issue all day while power drifting corners was just everything I could have asked for. Again big big credit to @curly for a flawless tune. Needless to say I have the bug, next season I was going to do motorcycle road racing but now all resources are being allocated to miata track days...

I wasn't going for lap times instead smiles and I was ear to ear all day.








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