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Finally done with sophomore year of college and back home.
Had a pile of parts to get in, took about 1.5 days to get it all done.
Ready to go! Doing the clutch because my FM level 1 clutch started to slip.
Transmission out and ready to get cleaned up.
Spent FM level 1 vs Supermiata sport clutch
Clutch in!
Miata Roadsters short-throw in, this thing feels magical.
Fancy new hardware for the down pipe because a stud pulled out of the turbo outlet when I took it off so I decided to freshen it all up with new studs, lock-nuts, and nord-lock washer, nuts were pricey(>$5.00/each)
On a side note its so nice being able to order from Mc-Master with will call shipping; drive there and the order is ready by the time I get there.
Fancy new silicone hose to switch the waste-gate lines from rubber they're too close to the manifold for comfort so I want something I can trust.
Overall everything went smooth. Taking the down-pipe off and bolting it back up was the worst part. I prefer the Supermiata puck clutch to the FM level 1 clutch; the way it feels just inspires more confidence in its holding capability. Also was a nice touch to be able to shorten the clutch throw by ~1" because the Supermiata clutch doesn't need as much pedal travel, really helps for taller people like me. Next steps with the car is to get the tune 100% perfect, gonna be working with Vlad to get it there since I'm only capable of getting the tune so close.
After doing some research and reading all the PCV, crankcase ventilation, and catch-can threads I decided the best solution for me was to leave the stock PCV setup setup and just run a check-valve inline with the PCV valve. The pros for a catch-can that is setup properly and ran VTA just heavily outweigh the cons for me especially considering I have no noticeable blow by or oil consumption. Here is a picture of the setup and a link to the valve- it seals good, flows well and is safe to 160℃ .
Have you broken in the clutch yet? Do you like it better than the FM stage 1?
Yes, I just finished breakingit in.. theres really not much break in since its ceramic but supermiata said ~200 miles of taking it easy if I want to be safe.
I like it a lot more than my FM stage 1. Pedal feel is just a tiny bit heavier, you really have to think about it to tell a difference, With the FM you have to max out clutch pedal travel but with this you can shorten it up so you can shift really fast and its just much nicer to not have to pick my foot up so high to shift. Driveability it definitely grabs harder but its still fine in traffic you just have to let it out slow and controlled. I noticed no bad behavior over the FM unit. Note my experience with FM was with a lightweight fly wheel and the supermiata was with the stock flywheel.
Lately nothing much has been happening just going back and forth with Vlad to work on the tune. Were on revision 7 now and still fighting some idle/fan issues but about to begin tuning the ebc, so I'm excited to finally have some fun again.
Found a local surplus store that sells these brass 3/16" connectors for $0.50 each. Seemed priced better than anywhere online so I picked a bunch up to replace any plastic ones I have. If anyone wants to buy some I would be happy to go to the store and send you some just pay actual cost and shipping.
Also got an awesome surprise from Italy. 2" spacer for the OEM wheel. Never even knew these existed but I'm so happy I bought one. Completely changed the car for me. Being 6' everything is just better with the wheel spaced back.
One of my favorite parts of the nb miata was the OEM stering wheel. Its aged so well I would've hated to replace it with something aftermarket, and now I don't have to.
Idle, fan issues take several logs to get right. I am just getting mine good for the Flow Force 960's with e85. You are in good hands.
Yeah if anyone can make it work its him. Im a big believer the hardest part of tuning on megasquirt is idle and idle load tuning. Which reminds me we haven't messed with AC at all.
Yeah if anyone can make it work its him. Im a big believer the hardest part of tuning on megasquirt is idle and idle load tuning. Which reminds me we haven't messed with AC at all.
Right there with you on this. I changed my fan to a monster this winter and im fighting the idle all over again.
Right there with you on this. I changed my fan to a monster this winter and im fighting the idle all over again.
Yeah its no fun for anyone haha. It really makes you respect the stock ecu. The stock ecu handled both my huge spal fans perfectly all the time. Obviously there are other complications now like larger injectors but I wonder what strategy the stock ecu used to control these things.
My only gripe is MS realy needs full control for a second fan rather than a simple on off input. I cant imagine its that hard to add.
I used a derale pwm controller for my big fan and just have the output set to always on. Then when the pwm controller gets the temp signal it will controls the fans. So if you had that control the big spall fans then you could use the MS fan control for the other one... Or just run the Volvo fan like i have in my build thread
I used a derale pwm controller for my big fan and just have the output set to always on. Then when the pwm controller gets the temp signal it will controls the fans. So if you had that control the big spall fans then you could use the MS fan control for the other one... Or just run the Volvo fan like i have in my build thread
Yeah the volvo fan is neat. Think the one in my daily s80 works the same. I dont want to do any hardware changes unless Vlad thinks theres no way to get it to work well the way its setup now. If I do need to do a change I think PWM will be the move the controller is nice but I dont like the temp probe. I’ve heard of people using a MS pwm out and a solid state relay, what made you shy away from that?
The interesting thing is that it's specifically your car that seems to struggle more than most.
And it's not as much about how it handles the fans, as it is about that initial reaction where it seems to be a bit slow to react and by the time it does it's a bit late.
I wanted to do the MS output without the derale unit but the big selling point was the soft start function. The volvo fan on startup pulls huge power where with soft start it slowly ramps to pwm output speed. The probe in the kit was a big negative for m, i really didnt want to spear the probe through my radiator. I ended up getting the correct plug to fill the oem fan sensor location the drilled and tapped for the derale sensor. Theres a bunch of pictures and information in my build thread on what i did and the discussion about the different options.
That makes sense about wanting softstart, I’ ll finish reading your build today.
Thanks DNM, thats awesome. ‘Bama has been really good to me so far, only nice things to say. I think they did a really good job of using some of the money from being a sport-powerhouse and putting it also towards becoming a better school.
Installed some ELBJ last night that I bought from another forum user.
Mad camber yo
Eyeballed the toe to get it good enough to drive to the alignment shop today.
Installed the balljoints so I can hit 949 Dual Duty specs. Before I could only hit about -1.7 front camber.
I am interested to see if I feel the car is too loose with these alignment specs and FM swaybars.
Yeah- kind of expected considering they’re usually coming off cars that are getting junked.
I was going to do the scotchbrite and carb cleaner but figured the machine shop would have tools to do the job easier.
They offered to bead blast it with a silica based media but I’m passing on that because of all the horror stories of engines blowing from having aluminum oxide bead blasting. I’m going to be spraying it with wrinkle black anyways so the texture doesnt bother me.
05-05-2018, 07:01 PM
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