When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Looks good. Just a little tip, You need a flat washer under the nut(s) where your seat bracket bolts to the floor bracket. It will help spread the load on the bracket and reduce the likely hood of pull thru if you ever do get in an accident.
Midtenn, thanks for looking out. I already have some 2" fender washers under there.
I thought of adapting the stock sliders with no rear mount but it just wasn't looking as clean as I was hoping so I went from scratch. It gets a little gross with the OEM nb2 sliders because the rails have the seatbelt receiver mount built in and that adds some complexity.
Hey BB, thanks for your posts, I have enjoyed them. You’ve been through your share of different seats.
Question: What did you not like about the Marrad lx1 seats?
As I read your post #7 the lx1 seats could not be used with the stock shoulder belts?
Hey BB, thanks for your posts, I have enjoyed them. You’ve been through your share of different seats.
Question: What did you not like about the Marrad lx1 seats?
As I read your post #7 the lx1 seats could not be used with the stock shoulder belts?
Roll on Tide...
Thanks again!
Pat
Thanks, and haha I have been through quite a few.
The Marrad lx1: overall they're a good seat but the quality of materials and craftsmanship was a little lacking mine was showing wear with only light use, crooked stitching, poorly fitting fabric, sliders felt flimsier than stock. They're not a bad seat but I have high standards. They did their job great: sitting you low and far back in the car. They work with stock belts if you do not have a roll-bar, or at-least a BBFW roll-bar. If you have a roll-bar and sit all the way back the seat will pinch the seat-belt against where it retracts from and it wont be able to move in or out. If you sit a few inches forward this is not a problem. Also with the seat all the way back if you have a roll-bar and were to get rear-ended your head will definitely be hitting the roll-bar.
In other news today I started the task of installing the square-top, oil cooler, skunk2 TB, and EGR delete.
So far I have the stock intake removed, the EGR pipe removed, and I drained all the oil. So basically everything is off now things just need to go on.
Overall this wasn't all that bad but was not a fun job and one of my least favorite. Mazda engineered the intake manifold well to allow a standard ratchet to be able to fit on all the bolts but getting the right angle and reaching in can be hard. Also there are 3 brackets that bolt to the lower half of the manifold to hold clips that add to the annoyance. I was dreading the EGR pipe removal after it has been heat cycled to the turbo manifold so many times but it actually came off super easy.
Anyways this post sucks without pics so here is the current state of my engine bay:
Tomorrow or the next day I will have all the new stuff on depending how motivated I am. Definitely not as easy to do installs after working all day, I feel for you who have been doing it this way for years!
Well I said it was time to start looking at aftermarket wheels.... But really I always knew if I got an aftermarket wheel it would be this one. Nardi Deep corn 330mm with black perforated leather and red stitching. Also have an nrg quick release and still waiting on the works bell hub.
In other news I will finish up the square-top and oil cooler install tomorrow. I'm just hoping to get it started and there be no boost/vaccum leaks or any issues. Something I wasn't expecting is you actually cant separate the two half's of the squaretop on a us nb2 if you have the front most stud in the manifold because the top half of the manifold will hit the fuel rail when you try to slip it onto or off of the stud. I remedied this by pulling the stud and using a bolt instead so you can still split the manifold into the two half's with it on the engine. Picture showing how close the fuel rail is to the manifold when both half's are together. You can also see the stainless allen head I was using to mock this up, that location is where you cant have the stud.
Everything's all buttoned up with the intake and oil cooler besides trimming my aluminum under tray to duct the oil cooler. I started the car and it ran fine with no leaks of any kind so well see tomorrow how everything is on the last test. I did not enjoy this install very much at all. It was such a nightmare to access all the bolts and brackets on the intake, I'm glad to be done.
Filled the car up with some of the new T6 in 15w-40 had to go to a couple wallyworlds to find one that stocked it.
This combo is about perfect it seems to be just as spaced out as my oem wheel was with the 2" spacer. The 330mm diameter is just right. I have no problems with the wheel blocking out any of the gauges because of how low I sit.
Another weird issue I have been fighting with my tune for a long time.
Problem: When the car is cold and not FULLY warmed up it idles extremely rich.
Things I've done to no effect: WUE is all set to 100%, EGO control turned off, Ensured same PW/Duty Cycle for fuel in both situations and yet the car is rich when its cold and once its up to temp its fine, this seems to effect the full low load areas of the VE table and not just idle too.
Logs and current tune are attached.
Rich idle: This log is after I cold start and let it idle down to show how rich it is.
Not Rich Hot: log showing idle once the car is warmed up I took it to get gas between this log and the Rich idle log. Almost 2 full points leaner but basically the same PW.
You have 57-60 kpa~ in idle cells in your ve map. Yet your idle ve advance has it at 48-50~. You are having your ecu chasing around its tail. I would first turn off all idle advance modes and start manually adjusting idle in your ve map.
You can't have a perfect dead on number but you need to have your ego correction something in the ballpark to work with.
fwiw mine is set at 50kpa~ , and idle advance has very small increments.
I disagree. The demonstration logs show that all data was taken with state solidly in CLI and Idle VE only in play.
Is is true that idle VE are much different from normal VE in same region, but that is not the issue here.
The other really confusing thing is that BBro says this is showing up at high loads as well. BBro, do you mean at 100kPa type loads?
My first thoughts were:
1) MAT correction causing the issue but the logs and tune do not support this.
2) Injector winding temps were causing dead time changes (opposite of hot restart). But that would only occur at low loads.
I’m stumped. I cannot conceive of the need to have WUE dip below 100% at mid-range CLT.
You have 57-60 kpa~ in idle cells in your ve map. Yet your idle ve advance has it at 48-50~. You are having your ecu chasing around its tail. I would first turn off all idle advance modes and start manually adjusting idle in your ve map.
You can't have a perfect dead on number but you need to have your ego correction something in the ballpark to work with.
fwiw mine is set at 50kpa~ , and idle advance has very small increments.
Yeah that something I want to work on, 18psi had it setup that way so I wasn't sure if there was a reason. But the thing is, Idle ve table was active in both situations and the injectors were firing the same PW so it doesn't really explain why when cold it was super rich and when warm it wasn't.
I disagree. The demonstration logs show that all data was taken with state solidly in CLI and Idle VE only in play.
Is is true that idle VE are much different from normal VE in same region, but that is not the issue here.
The other really confusing thing is that BBro says this is showing up at high loads as well. BBro, do you mean at 100kPa type loads?
My first thoughts were:
1) MAT correction causing the issue but the logs and tune do not support this.
2) Injector winding temps were causing dead time changes (opposite of hot restart). But that would only occur at low loads.
I’m stumped. I cannot conceive of the need to have WUE dip below 100% at mid-range CLT.
You beat me to it haha. It's not high load but higher rpm low load so the cruise zones where I'm usually targeting 15ish afr ex 40-50kpa.
Dead times are about spot on. I guess technically I'm using the dead time for 4 BAR and the voltage corrections for 3 BAR but this info is different from what was available when we set them.
If you cannot find the direct cause, then you have to use EGO to fix. That is what EGO is supposed to do. Trim AFR when everything is not accounted for. On your logs, EGO is turned off (as you stated). In the Tune, it is on.
However:
1) I would run "Incorporate AFR Target". If you switch, then all the VE cells where you are calling for 14.7 will not need to be adjusted, but the rest would have to be reduced accordingly. I would have mentioned this earlier, but thought you had already tuned VE table.
2) Your Dead Time seems high to me. I think that you are running non-return, so I suppose that is why you are using the 4 Bar setting. Are you using non-return with stock regulator? Still, with my return (3-Bar) and FF, I am running only 1.070 @ 13.2. The thing is, EGO has to work harder if you have long dead times set. EGO can only adjust the portion of the electrical signal that is other than dead time. IOW, if you have a 2mS pulse, that means the fueling equation has calculated 0.739 and the 1.261 is added to it (neglecting V compensation). So adding 20% EGO will mean 1.2 * .739 + 1.261 = 2.148. If you change dead time to 1.1, then adjust VE until you have that same 2.0 mS pulse, then for EGO to get you to a 2.148, it only has to add 16%. (The 2.0 mS would be made up of .900 calculated fuel + 1.1 dead time, Thus, to add enough fuel to get to 2.148, we have: 1.16 * 0.900 + 1.1 = 2.148.) This may not be the technically correct way to determine dead time, but it is an argument to error on the low side, not the high side.
3) How are you justifying injector trim? How did you determine that it is needed? (Basic Load / Engine and Sequential / Injector Trim = On), Then (Fuel / Cylinder 1-4 trim values).
I bet you will find that all of the load areas that you are concerned with have about the same injector mS, which is pretty low, and is therefore governed a lot by dead time (both what is set and what is real.)
Okay, my first thought was EGO control but then my car is going to be targeting 14.7 when fully cold, which isn't ideal either, I would rather it taper up from 13.5 at cold to 14.7 when warm. I should have mentioned I turned EGO back on after those two logs, that is why it is on in the tune.
1. This is something I have been wanting to do but the VE table is pretty solid already. After my Dyno time next weekend I think I will set this on along with the deadtime/ voltage correction changes and go through readjusting the VE table.
2. I never really put much thought into dead time, I know what it is but I always thought it was just a set and forget if your injector supplier gives you a tested number. Fuel system is OEM nb2 so returnless with the OEM FPR so fuel pressure decreases with boost. Only mod to fuel system is injectors. Your math makes sense but then what is the downside? Why wouldn't everyone set the dead time artificially low then?
3. Injector trim was set by 18PSI I don't know or understand why this is changed. Looking back through the revisions it was set to this value in the first tune he sent me so I assume he has his reasons with these injectors in the past or maybe an accident? Maybe when I make the other changes I should try setting this to off?
2) There are some methods for determining in-situ dead times. Like running (2) squirts per rev and then 1 squirt (or is it the opposite) and seeing if the AFR remains constant. Of course, the other means is to use values from suppliers. The objective is to allow the corrections to affect the fueling correctly. In other words, if the dead times are 100% know and corrected for Voltage and Temperature of coils (latter not possible), such that mS @ voltage really meant a specific current for a specific time [note that electromagnet fields are really current induced] then small corrections such as EGO and MAT and WUE would create the exactly correct adjustments. That is why it is important to have accurate dead times. I am admitting that I am hedging a bit. I know that my corrections are acting as they should with my less-than-published value. I cannot say why. Again, I am open to input from other, more experienced folks. I also know that some other methods so DT calibration were proposed in the past, and they really got mixed results.
I understand that you wold use the 4 bar value with the return-less system. In fact, at idle, there is even greater differential across the injectors than 4 bar. So perhaps I'm off base on this one.
I suppose a good test would be to see if, under the same rich condition, you show that 82% EGO should correct it, and 82% EGO does correct it, then dead time is probably correct (12 / 14.7 = 0.82). People also just change the target AFR and see if the EGO % change matches the % AFR change [similar to the above case... If when fully warm, you are hitting your prescribed 14.7 with 100% EGO (turned on) change the target to 12 and see if the EGO goes to 120% to bring the AFR down to 12. If it does, then your dead time is correct.] Note that the full PW will not change 120% as only the non-dead-time will change.
Re: running rich when engine is cold. I understand that point. I know my Ford runs really rich until fully warmed up. However, I have my EGO to come on at 70* CLT (which happens quickly even on 30* mornings). I have had no drivability problems with running targeted AFR's during warm-up. I am not using any CLT adjustment on Advance, as I am totally ignorant on such. Again, the car spends little time warming up, so I did not try to find out if adding Advance when cold would help with either drivability or warm-up time. There may be some rule of thumb, but I don't know it. I think that if you run rich than targets during ASE period, you're good. Again, others have tuned many many Miatas, and I'm basing my input on one. I also don't know how all this affects CAT warm-up, and I don't care, even though I do have a CAT.
3) He may have some previous experience. I cannot see how one would know what trims to use unless: A) you have O2 sensors on each exhaust port; B) you somehow calculate using the published data from the supplier and match the individual injector data to the installed position; C) you know exactly how a fuel rail responds to pressure waves, etc over the operating range.
As a side note, Small Pulsewidths... This is a really really fine point as it only pertains to < 2mS pulses (in your case < 1mS) which, as you have noticed only occur during trailing throttle. So, I turned mine off. My Yellow Tops were so bad, that there seemed to be a benefit to the small pulse width corrections, but not so much with the FF.
Okay, that makes sense. I like the idea of finding the % ego wants to change things to match a % change in afr and want to try that test when the car is hot and cold.
One of the big upsides to using incorporate afr is that you could just change the afr target and not have to mess with the ve table, but if deadtimes were wrong this wouldnt work properly. Correct?
So with having ego active above 70* what did you do for wue? Just have the whole wue curve set to reach 14.7? Or do you target something richer below 70* then taper to 14.7 at 70*?
Everything's all buttoned up with the intake and oil cooler besides trimming my aluminum under tray to duct the oil cooler. I started the car and it ran fine with no leaks of any kind so well see tomorrow how everything is on the last test. I did not enjoy this install very much at all. It was such a nightmare to access all the bolts and brackets on the intake, I'm glad to be done.
Filled the car up with some of the new T6 in 15w-40 had to go to a couple wallyworlds to find one that stocked it.
They make T6 in 15w40 now???!!! Well I just changed my oil but Im going to drain it and put this in instead, lol. I run T6 5w40 but with hotter weather coming a little thicker would be nice. I think youll like the squaretop for sure, at least I hope you do sounds like the install was a PITA
Okay, that makes sense. I like the idea of finding the % ego wants to change things to match a % change in afr and want to try that test when the car is hot and cold.
One of the big upsides to using incorporate afr is that you could just change the afr target and not have to mess with the ve table, but if deadtimes were wrong this wouldnt work properly. Correct?
So with having ego active above 70* what did you do for wue? Just have the whole wue curve set to reach 14.7? Or do you target something richer below 70* then taper to 14.7 at 70*?
If you use the built-in tool for setting WUE, TS does exactly what you suggest, it tunes WUE to your target. Since idle is so fickle, when I ran the wizard (long time ago), I put IAC to manual and ran the car at about 2000 RPM for setting WUE. Anyway, point is that most people run the wizard, and it does set WUE at target. So, in the end WUE gives extra fuel at low CLT, but only to overcome poor atomization / evaporation, not to target an actual rich mixture with respect to AFR. Again, this is not like OEM, but seems to work well in practice.
Thing is, if indeed you are running EGO, unless you have the authority turned way down, it will over-ride WUE and push toward the AFR set-point. As you mentioned.
03-25-2019, 11:16 AM
0
