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Slow but Steady HPDE to ST/TT Build

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Old 09-18-2020, 03:06 PM
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If I didn't want over 145rwhp for consistent track use, I'd just stay with the BP. If I wanted more on track, the k24z3 is just really hard to beat for long-term use. For a cost reference, here's my on-going list that includes quite a bit of random parts: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
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Old 09-19-2020, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by emilio700
Assuming 250+ whp is the goal, there isn't any option that is either a quick 20hr swap or fire and forget once installed. K24A2 requires a new subframe. Z3 uses OEM subframe. Unopened K24 on E85 can make a reliable 220whp or thereabouts but its not cheap or quick install. All the hours & $$ up front but once installed, it's pretty bombproof. The BP is cheaper and easier but above 250whp not as low maintenance as the K24. I know a few here have long, service free hours on turbo track BP's, but they are rare. Even the vaunted TSE turbo kit (NLA) required regular stud maintenance.

If simplicity and low maintenance were top priority, I'd lower power goal to be met by an junkyard K24Z3 on E85. 220whp is damn fun in a ~2300# NA/NB with good suspension and a little aero. Doesn't require massive cooling mods or F1 brakes, eats fewer tires than a 350whp build. Less stuff breaks.
We just got trigger info for the Z3 from Haltech and forwarded that to KPower. That precludes the need to swap in the A2 triggers. So outside of the oil pan stuff, it's an unopened $600 junkyard motor. The expense is in the KPower kit & ECU, the motor itself nearly free.

Junkyard BP's only stone reliable below 7,000rpm and about 145whp on E85 with bolt ons ($1000).
Forged, ported, big valve BP ($5000) maybe 170whp on E85 for 200 race hours.
Z3 ($500) more reliable than either at 220whp. Just have that $5k/40hrs up front to build the Z3.
I do think simplicity and low maintenance are my biggest priorities, and 200-220whp is all I was planning on anyway. I know in a 2300# car it'll be a blast. The Z3 swap got announced at a perfect time since I haven't spent any money on the BP yet, and I KNOW it's the right answer for me. I've been waiting to see people finish up some Z3 builds and see if any random issues start popping up. I know the Winning Formula guys have had good success with their Z3 GLTC car so far, just wanted to make sure the swaps that will be done more so with my budget work just as well haha. But, I really do know the Z3 is the right answer and I think that's what it will ultimately be. I click around the KMiata/KPower site almost daily and I feel like it'll only be so much longer before I stumble there and click the order now button...I really just need to pony up and do it. I do have the money sitting and waiting for me to make a decision and time to do the swap is no issue. Only thing I would still need to save for is ECU and the junkyard motor itself.

Originally Posted by Arca_ex
I got two K24Z3's for 700.

If I had a fresh racecar build and could go any direction I wanted I would still do a K24Z3. Fits in tons of fun classes, cheap and reliable junkyard engines, and fast enough to have some serious fun, can't really beat that. If for some reason I lost an engine at the track I would just load the car up, grab a beer and hang out, not a huge deal. If I lost a built BP that I spent like 4 or 5k building I'd be a lot more upset that's for sure.
Originally Posted by flier129
If I didn't want over 145rwhp for consistent track use, I'd just stay with the BP. If I wanted more on track, the k24z3 is just really hard to beat for long-term use. For a cost reference, here's my on-going list that includes quite a bit of random parts: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
I've been following along both your builds very closely. I think my only hold up really is that the K24Z3 swap seems almost TOO good to be true. Silly, I know. So I just want to make sure I make the right decision. In the back of my mind I think the Z3 swap was always going to be the answer, maybe I just needed a little more validation.

Thank you @emilio700 , @Arca_ex , and @flier129 for your thoughts. You've certainly gently pushed me in the direction I think I've needed to be pushed all along haha. As much as it slightly irks me that "K-swap the world" is very much becoming a real thing, I need to get that irritation out of my head and just commit to building a fun car that I will enjoy. Because my ~110whp I have now is certainly not cutting it.

P.S. - thank you @flier129 for that spreadsheet. Incredibly helpful. Now to try to go re-sell the K-swap idea to my wife...
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Old 09-19-2020, 08:06 PM
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Whenever I'm at the track and see a KMiata or see build thread with them I want to shift my focus that way. I think its the perfect swap, but the entry cost is too spicy for me.
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Old 09-19-2020, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Z33Taxi
Whenever I'm at the track and see a KMiata or see build thread with them I want to shift my focus that way. I think its the perfect swap, but the entry cost is too spicy for me.

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Old 09-19-2020, 08:34 PM
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^^
My mom warned me about this
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Old 09-21-2020, 02:47 AM
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Old 10-06-2020, 09:14 AM
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Absolutely killer weekend at VIR. Weather was about as perfect as you could ask for: blue skies and mid-60's. Car ran great all weekend with it's usual quirks...there's still a phantom cylinder 1 misfire that keeps popping up and causes a stutter at paddock speeds, but at WOT there are no issues at all and the car actually felt relatively peppy. My stock replacement clutch now with three seasons of track-only abuse was not so happy however. On Sunday it started slipping really bad on quick 3-4 gear shifts and then started getting worse and worse, eventually slipping for a solid second or two between each gear change at WOT. Was still good for a new PB of 2:22:48 on 21 HC R888Rs though, so I'm very happy with that. Puts me right at 4 seconds behind Spec Miata with my unopened/unmodded BP4W. Slowly closing the gap!

Driving was improved as well. Braking now feels much more relaxed and natural as I have finally begun to trust that the car is going to stop. Since I don't drive this car on the street at all, it takes quite a bit of adjustment moving from either my 400 hp Mazdaspeed3, tow rig, or commuter car. Now that I know I can really trust the brakes I am way more comfortable braking later and harder. The goal this weekend was to condense some braking into turns 1 and 14, and I think I succeeded at least a little bit. Will have to go review video and data to confirm, but it felt better. Hoping to further improve next time out.

I think that is going to be it for this year though. I was planning on finishing up at Summit Point in three weeks, but with the clutch slipping as bad as it is and plans to pull the engine and swap everything over to the caged shell this off-season anyway, I don't see the point in trying to slam a new clutch in such a short time frame. Coupled with a promotion at work it's going to be quite the time crunch. So, I'll just be happy with a solid finish to the year and get a jump start on moving everything over to the new shell (with a few safety and reliability upgrades along the way) and keep saving for a potential K-swap down the line.

The current goal is to shoot for a 2:20:xx at VIR without adding power or aero. Still plenty of time in my driving and I haven't even messed with sway bar adjustments yet. I'll need to get to Summit Point again before I have a truly good benchmark there. But all in all a good (if not short) season. I'll document the build progress over the winter as I move everything over to the caged shell and finally get to removing things I don't need off the car to save a little weight.

Last edited by Quigs; 10-07-2020 at 10:12 PM.
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Old 10-07-2020, 10:16 PM
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First time trying to use Race Render. Looking over video I can already see where there's plenty of time to be had.

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Old 10-08-2020, 05:10 AM
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Great lap. I wasn't supposed to be there that weekend, but work isn't letting us travel anywhere really. Hopefully when I move to RVA, VIR will be my home track
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Old 10-08-2020, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Z33Taxi
Great lap. I wasn't supposed to be there that weekend, but work isn't letting us travel anywhere really. Hopefully when I move to RVA, VIR will be my home track
It's only 2.5 hours from Richmond and a super easy drive!
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Old 10-08-2020, 09:08 AM
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Good lap! That really sucks about the clutch, would drive me insane on track too. I've had great luck with ACT 1.6 discs on a 1.6 7lb Fidanza flywheel, you can get the whole sha-bang from Good-Win-Racing. The Supermiata clutch is also a really great value if you're sticking with 1.8. I was about to buy an ACT 1.8 4-puck, then looked at the SPM unit and noticed it had higher tq capacity and was less expensive by a good margin, win-win. Fix the clutch and add more power?

I think you already know most of the spots to get time out there. I can add my $0.02 if you want.
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Old 10-08-2020, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by flier129
Good lap! That really sucks about the clutch, would drive me insane on track too. I've had great luck with ACT 1.6 discs on a 1.6 7lb Fidanza flywheel, you can get the whole sha-bang from Good-Win-Racing. The Supermiata clutch is also a really great value if you're sticking with 1.8. I was about to buy an ACT 1.8 4-puck, then looked at the SPM unit and noticed it had higher tq capacity and was less expensive by a good margin, win-win. Fix the clutch and add more power?
I'm very torn at the moment as to how to go about the next steps...K-swap is still the long-term plan right now, but I don't think it'll happen this year as I have some house repairs/updating I'd like to dedicate some money to. So I'm torn between spending as little as possible on the BP (including maintenance items like clutch/flywheel) and seeing if I can swing the K-swap next year OR spending some money on the BP this year for a mild power increase (nice clutch setup, exhaust, and intake maybe...probably can't justify/afford standalone though) and holding off on the swap for a year or two.

Originally Posted by flier129
I think you already know most of the spots to get time out there. I can add my $0.02 if you want.
I'll always take any constructive input!

My primary focus this weekend was turn 3 and this was the first time I've tried shifting into 4th instead of riding the limiter in 3rd, so I definitely know there's work to be done there. I definitely over slowed and have plenty of track outside the gator at the exit I can utilize, I just need to figure the extra downshift out while getting back to a better line track right before turning in. I'm already flat in 4-9 but can brake a little deeper/harder going into 4. 10 I think I can carry maybe another MPH or two (or maybe more). Oak Tree is always a struggle but I think I've at least gotten a consistent line now. Trying to inch closer and closer to the arrow for my braking reference into 14.
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Old 10-21-2020, 09:28 AM
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Finalized plans for the off-season and into next year:

Biggest goal of course is to move everything over from my current blue chassis with rollbar (and rust!) to new green chassis with full cage. In the process of doing that I'm planning on upgrading the following:
- SadFab bronze bearing retrofit for my poly bushings
- Racing Beat header and probably exhaust because my stock exhaust is riddled with leaks and about to fall apart
- DIY intake with enclosure behind driver headlight and intake ducting through the lens
- New clutch, probably the SuperMiata organic, possibly with light flywheel as well depending on funds
- Miata Roadster tall angled shiter for better shifting (hopefully)
- Cutting out any and all unnecessary weight and wiring
- Redo radiator ducting

Additional upgrades depending on Black Friday sales and/or available funds:
- Coolshirt setup, either DIY, Coolsuit, or ChillOut if I'm feeling extra baller
- Fire suppression system
- Right side net and battery cutoff switches
- MiataHubs
- Second set of wheels with RA1s to use as rains/emergency backups

Plan for next year is to shake down the new chassis and check ride into TT for better quality track time. Can possibly be regionally competitive in TT6 with 125 HP at 2300 lbs due to very low car count, but I really just want the better track time to keep developing since HPDE3 has become quite the clusterfuck. Car will be mostly prepped for transition into ST safety-wise though, so if all goes well with shaking down and better driver improvement I may try to shoot for Comp School at some point, we'll see.

Long term plan still undetermined regarding BP vs K-swap and what class I ultimately want to shoot for. Right now focus is just on being a better driver and having a safe and complete car.
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Old 10-21-2020, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Quigs
Right now focus is just on being a better driver and having a safe and complete car.
Ain't nothing wrong with that! I miss driving on track :(

I haven't liked the tall-angled MR shifter nearly as much as the OEM sized MR shifter. It's kinda floppy and easier to miss-shift at first. It's OKAY after you get use to it, but the OEM sized MR was way better than just OKAY.
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Old 10-21-2020, 01:06 PM
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I have an oem mr shifter if you are interested
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Old 10-21-2020, 08:19 PM
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Really cool to see a build that started so bare bones. It's refreshing to see compared to many others were guys throw a bunch of money at mods and wide wheels before they even touch track pavement.
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Old 10-21-2020, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Quigs
Finalized plans for the off-season and into next year:

Plan for next year is to shake down the new chassis and check ride into TT for better quality track time. Can possibly be regionally competitive in TT6 with 125 HP at 2300 lbs due to very low car count, but I really just want the better track time to keep developing since HPDE3 has become quite the clusterfuck. Car will be mostly prepped for transition into ST safety-wise though, so if all goes well with shaking down and better driver improvement I may try to shoot for Comp School at some point, we'll see.

Right now focus is just on being a better driver and having a safe and complete car.
Seems we pretty much have the same goal for this winter in preparation for next season, minus the K-swap.

Originally Posted by flier129
Ain't nothing wrong with that! I miss driving on track :(

I haven't liked the tall-angled MR shifter nearly as much as the OEM sized MR shifter. It's kinda floppy and easier to miss-shift at first. It's OKAY after you get use to it, but the OEM sized MR was way better than just OKAY.
The whole kit or the extension?
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Old 10-22-2020, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by flier129
I haven't liked the tall-angled MR shifter nearly as much as the OEM sized MR shifter. It's kinda floppy and easier to miss-shift at first. It's OKAY after you get use to it, but the OEM sized MR was way better than just OKAY.
I'm glad you shared that...not much negative feedback out there on the MR units from what I've been able to find. But floppy is exactly the opposite of what I want haha. Will try to continue looking into it for more user reviews.

Originally Posted by Z33Taxi
Seems we pretty much have the same goal for this winter in preparation for next season, minus the K-swap.
I'm honestly still not 100% sold on the K-swap idea. I can't help thinking about more power being nice, but at the same time I'm still having a blast with my completely stock power. I like the challenge of trying to get faster without just throwing another 80-100 horsepower at it. Though how long that fun will last before the power bug bites harder is not easy to predict...

If you end up still coming down to VA and the TT/ST6 class gains some entries I'd probably be perfectly content sticking with the BP and taking the money savings from not K-swapping and using it for nicer parts for increased reliability throughout the life of the car (IE MiataHubs and ChillOut vs going for the cheaper versions).
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Old 10-22-2020, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Quigs

If you end up still coming down to VA and the TT/ST6 class gains some entries I'd probably be perfectly content sticking with the BP and taking the money savings from not K-swapping and using it for nicer parts for increased reliability throughout the life of the car (IE MiataHubs and ChillOut vs going for the cheaper versions).
VA is definitely a go. This weekend I'll be judging home renos and finding time to work on the Miata. My realistic goals are coilovers, getting the exhaust done and taking out weight where I can. Then the fun of trying to find a job down there, either Richmond or Hampton Roads should have plenty of engineering opportunities. Even if I can't make a bunch of track days I'll come out and pit crew for you or just come to BS
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Old 10-23-2020, 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Quigs
If you end up still coming down to VA and the TT/ST6 class gains some entries I'd probably be perfectly content sticking with the BP and taking the money savings from not K-swapping and using it for nicer parts for increased reliability throughout the life of the car (IE MiataHubs and ChillOut vs going for the cheaper versions).
Don't get one of those overpriced ChillOut systems. You can build a DIY coolshirt box for like less than 200 bucks instead of spending thousands. I've also heard of 3 of those systems now that have failed and started pumping hot water instead, one of them during an endurance race that almost sent the driver to the hospital because they didn't have the ability to turn it off and tried to stay out.

As for the swap, if you've got car counts in classes that you can be competitive in with the BP then stick with the BP as long as you can. Wait until you either feel like you really want more power, or if the increased power can get you into classes with better car counts. For me, there's no one locally to compete against in ST5 or ST6. But ST4 has pretty good potential to get some people racing, so that was the largest motivating factor. As well as being able to run at GLTC events, where a naturally aspirated BP is just not up to the task.
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