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Lots of setbacks today, time for a drink.
Motor was assembled 2/2018 and has sat indoors with no fluids in it until last month. I got it in the car and added break in oil and turned it over on the starter until I got oil pressure and oil at the turbo. All good. Started messing with MS, got it set up and tried to start and it sounded fine but would not fire. Got no spark. Messed with if for a few days and opened the oil cap to make sure the oil was flowing and noticed a broken ARP had stud. WTF, pulled valve cover to find both front heads studs are broken and laying on the head. See pics. Also noticed the rear exhaust shim has been spit out and was laying on the head. Cam lobe is damaged. Not b https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...cc6099e638.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...811368283d.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5885f6ba03.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0f0f5dfa0d.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...44a34935d4.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1f925837a2.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a943064c9c.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b4d2963eb7.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d79725c44a.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a90bf6399b.jpg een a good day. I have contacted ARP and they do not have any answers and asked me to send them all the studs so they could look them over. I pulled the head today and found a 3rd broken Head stud, 2nd one back on the intake side. The head gasket looked normal and so did the deck. All dowels |
That is absolutely nuts. Does this car ever seen crazy low temperatures?
Looks like you might be able to clean up that cam lobe. If you're uncomfortable with that, NIB exhaust cams are ~$200 with a mazdaspeed account. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1594847)
That is absolutely nuts. Does this car ever seen crazy low temperatures?
Looks like you might be able to clean up that cam lobe. If you're uncomfortable with that, NIB exhaust cams are ~$200 with a mazdaspeed account. |
Where’d you buy them? Coworker brought up a good point, there’s a decent chance those are knock off ARPs
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Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1594866)
Where’d you buy them? Coworker brought up a good point, there’s a decent chance those are knock off ARPs
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Still nothing back from ARP on the studs but I bought the 949 bad azz ones and put it back together again. Has a few hiccups with the megasquirt not firing the coils but that's solved when we rewired them for sequential. And today after 7 years the car fired up. Littke exhaust leak at turbo vband but I can fix that. Sounded good and ran fun up to tempature. Now to fix the little stuff and off to the dyno. Super excited!
Here it running. |
That's awesome man. I know you cant wait to get it out...
Mine has been down for a little over a year for just a MS install so I'd say you've made better progress than I have. |
So it now had had 23 miles on it. in last 23 mile I have had to blow out whatever animal moved into the brake booster metal vacuum tube. Thing had no power brakes at all with that clogged. Still need to address whatever banging around under car at 5K under decel, prob 3" exhaust on something. Runs ok. Still tweeking AF map and I used Brains spark map. Other issue is the turbosmart WG is hitting the hood. Little trimming and it fits now. Ant got time for that BS
It's on royal purple break in oil now. What is everyone opinion on when to change oil? Use more break in oil, or switch to dino oil or go synthetic? How much time before can throw it on the dyno? Want to make all the powers! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5bb5d18c0e.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b379632276.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...d4f68d8854.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...69474bad52.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6a33cd5053.jpg |
Shove that DP against the trans, it moves with it, so it'll give you max clearance to your tunnel. Might help your interference.
Dyno tuning is great for engine break in. What I do is get ~100 miles on it, change the filter, and check the old one for any concerning debris, then dyno tune, and either when you get home or next time it's hot, change it with more break in. Put 500-1000 more miles on it, switch to synthetic. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1600696)
Shove that DP against the trans, it moves with it, so it'll give you max clearance to your tunnel. Might help your interference.
Dyno tuning is great for engine break in. What I do is get ~100 miles on it, change the filter, and check the old one for any concerning debris, then dyno tune, and either when you get home or next time it's hot, change it with more break in. Put 500-1000 more miles on it, switch to synthetic. |
Post your current tune, or just the AFR map.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1600779)
Post your current tune, or just the AFR map.
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You can technically run mid 12s in low boost, I don't personally like to do it. I'd rather be rich than sorry. If it were me, I'd select the 12.5 row at 120kpa and make it 11.9. Then interpolate vertically to your 200kpa row. The rest of the AFR table looks fine. I personally don't tune much leaner than 14.9 in cruise, leaves room for error, and I'm not sure what injectors you have, but most can idle around 14.7, not sure whats up with the 14 in that area.
Change all your cylinder trims to zero, those should be tuned on the dyno, not preset on some base map. You've got one of the horrendous air density tables, set anything below 100 to 100. Your fuel table only goes up to naturally aspirated levels, fix that asap. VVT table is awful, BPs never want advance above about 5000rpm, you've still got 10 degrees till redline. You don't have any overboost protection enabled. There's probably more, those are the big things I saw. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1600953)
You can technically run mid 12s in low boost, I don't personally like to do it. I'd rather be rich than sorry. If it were me, I'd select the 12.5 row at 120kpa and make it 11.9. Then interpolate vertically to your 200kpa row. The rest of the AFR table looks fine. I personally don't tune much leaner than 14.9 in cruise, leaves room for error, and I'm not sure what injectors you have, but most can idle around 14.7, not sure whats up with the 14 in that area.
OK. Change all your cylinder trims to zero, those should be tuned on the dyno, not preset on some base map. Cylinder trim, where is that option? You've got one of the horrendous air density tables, set anything below 100 to 100. Will do. Your fuel table only goes up to naturally aspirated levels, fix that asap. It's just a break in tune. Got a good example? VVT table is awful, BPs never want advance above about 5000rpm, you've still got 10 degrees till redline. Well its a Mazdaspeed so no VVTto worry about, I don't have one. You don't have any overboost protection enabled. Ill look into that. There's probably more, those are the big things I saw. |
you can trim ignition and fuel, both other their respective tabs. Ignition is currently all zeros, but fuel has some stuff in it, open it up and set all four cylinder tables to zero.
To disable VVT, set "No. VVT" to zero. You don't need a random pin sending out a PWM signal if you don't need it. For the fuel table, open both the ignition and fuel table. Press the vertical/horizontal button in the bottom left corner of the fuel table, then enter all the same KPA and RPM numbers from your ignition table. Then press apply. You'll then need to insert values for 100+ kpa rows, and that info I can't give you. Start them maybe 20 higher than the 100kpa row, tapering up slightly as boost goes up, since you're returnless. |
Cliff notes:
2004 Mazdaspeed Engine Bored to 1.9L with fully built bottom end. Boundary Engineering street/strip oil pump with 3 shims 84mm 8.6:1 Supertech Pistons Wiseco piston rings Manley forged H-beam connecting rods ARP hardware for rods ARP head studs ARP main studs ACL thrust washer ACL main bearings ACL rod bearings Supermiata waterpump 949 Racing reroute Square top 1000CC injectors 340lph pump with boost ref regulator Supermiata damper EFR 6758 Turbosmart WG actuator Turbosmart BOV/Recirc Supermiata crossflow rad with stage 2 FM fan. Shuiend built 3" catless exhaust Trackspeed manifold and DP Megasquirt PNP for Mazdaspeed 949 Twin disk clutch with super light FW Welded diff housing with 3:63 gears LS Coils wired in sequential |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1600963)
you can trim ignition and fuel, both other their respective tabs. Ignition is currently all zeros, but fuel has some stuff in it, open it up and set all four cylinder tables to zero.
To disable VVT, set "No. VVT" to zero. You don't need a random pin sending out a PWM signal if you don't need it. For the fuel table, open both the ignition and fuel table. Press the vertical/horizontal button in the bottom left corner of the fuel table, then enter all the same KPA and RPM numbers from your ignition table. Then press apply. You'll then need to insert values for 100+ kpa rows, and that info I can't give you. Start them maybe 20 higher than the 100kpa row, tapering up slightly as boost goes up, since you're returnless. |
That looks better. With a 110kpa boost limit and 10kpa hysteresis, you'll only hit 100kpa, or naturally aspirated levels. That'll be incredibly difficult to drive at all. Don't treat overboost like a rev limiter, where you don't want to go any high whatsoever. Treat it like a failsafe, so set it 4-5psi over you intended boost levels and it'll only be there if something goes horrendously wrong. Then make sure your wastegate is working properly, vacuum line is well attached, and if you have EBC, it's plumbed and wired well.
Still no idea on those fuel table numbers. Just make sure to ease into boost when you drive it, if autotune starts to dump more fuel, extend that amount if not more out to red line, I'd rather you have to remove fuel than add it. Also, check your injector dead times. If those are ID1050xs, I don;t think your dead times are correct, and they also provide small pulsewidth information you can enter. Those are the top two menus in the fuel tab. |
Originally Posted by curly
(Post 1601094)
That looks better. With a 110kpa boost limit and 10kpa hysteresis, you'll only hit 100kpa, or naturally aspirated levels. That'll be incredibly difficult to drive at all. Don't treat overboost like a rev limiter, where you don't want to go any high whatsoever. Treat it like a failsafe, so set it 4-5psi over you intended boost levels and it'll only be there if something goes horrendously wrong. Then make sure your wastegate is working properly, vacuum line is well attached, and if you have EBC, it's plumbed and wired well.
***I set it to 110kpa for break in. Did not want it in boost for a bit. Motor only has 50 miles on it. EBC makes clicking noises when prompted in testing. So I think it should work. Still no idea on those fuel table numbers. Just make sure to ease into boost when you drive it, if autotune starts to dump more fuel, extend that amount if not more out to red line, I'd rather you have to remove fuel than add it. ***Question on that, how much should I let autotune change? How many points and what percentage? Also, check your injector dead times. If those are ID1050xs, I don;t think your dead times are correct, and they also provide small pulsewidth information you can enter. Those are the top two menus in the fuel tab. ***Yes they are ID1000 I'll go google dead time and learn about them, got me on that one I know nothing of what you speak. |
I don’t find overboost to work that way. I’ve also heard people talk about “anticipation”. I don’t observe that either. I do admit I have not combed the code, however.
In my experience, I have never had overboost kick in until my set limit was actually attained. Then, hysteresis is when power is allowed to return. MS3 1.4.X and 1.5.X FW. EDIT ON HYSTERESIS DNM |
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