I'm unsure what you're asking. Either way i would have to tune fuel and spark.
With a tank full of e85 i need to retune with the fuel sensor turned on.
I've never used table switching, it looked way more complicated than a multiplier.

 

I just mean you need to keep an eye on things if you are just using the multiplier.

From what I understand The fuel multiplier and timing addition will add onto your base table. So if your baseline ethanol% is 10%, and you are at 100% ethanol (for easy math sake) then your spark will be 13 degrees retarded, and your fuel table will be multiplied by 1.63.

As long as you are ok with that automatically happening, continue.

 

Yeah, absolutely. First things first, i need to get the e85 out and pour 93 back in. Find baseline E content, tune from there. Timing map has already been put back.
Technically i am tuning the car from scratch again since i lost my 93 tune. But that's okay. It seems to idle great, and AFRs stabilized around 13.8. It should get me on the road.

I've never set up the AFR safety system and this thread is disappointingly short and old. But it's also pretty straightforward so i'll set it up too. I'd probably end up turning it right back off after i was comfortable with my tune and mixtures.

 

Pretty sure I just lost the 5 speed. Sitting at the strip dead in the water. Stupid thing dead hooked in 1st and just exploded.

 

Never mind, i stand corrected.

Rear diff exploded. Yup, my type 1 torsen smoked the helical gears. Amsoil fluid had less than 10k miles on it, mostly DD duty. Maybe 6 passes and an auto-x.

 

Whoops, that sucks.

 

My diff did the same thing.

 

Am i the first one to grenade a type 1 torsen using a 5 speed?

 

Leafy and I have both done it

 

Wow. Interesting.

I'm glad i've gotten to join the club.

 

Yup, and mine broke exactly that way. Its from wheel hop.

 

Yep mine too.

 

Yikes.
This is why I never do burnouts. Ever. And if it ever starts doing the basketball bounce like that, I let out. Unless you got a drag setup, the miata simply doesn't like to play ball

 

Burnouts are fine. It's when you actually have traction that sucks.

 

I usually roll around the box. Doing this burnout gave me grip I've never had before. There was a little bounce at the end of the burnout but none after the launch. It just seemed to hook up better than ever before.

I guess it's time to do the roll bar thing and practice turning the wheel.

 

I saw the camera start shaking toward the end of the burnout and thought it was weird you weren't letting up. I wonder if the wheel hop in the burnout weakened something and then the traction when you launched actually snapped it?

 

That little bit of hop is nothing. It's been much worse before.

Not to say all the abuse it's been through hasn't lead up to its failure.

 

Wrinkle wall slicks help to absorb shock loads and protect your gear as well as maintain traction. They don't tend to hop, either.

 

Watch the video again. See the shifter touch the radio?

I'm guessing the diff broke during the stupid burnout I never do. When the power came in the extra torque flexed the case enough to shatter gears. But that's just my guess.
I can't get this PPF bolt out, I'm betting the bolts are warped. I'm just spinning the capture nut. Same issue I have on my NB.




Internal carnage pics as soon as I figure out how to remove this bolt.

 

dat rust state lyfe