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The lines are just a visual representation of the air paths, and the color code represents velocity at max flow possible with the pressure differential I'm expecting (which is based entirely off of numbers I pulled from my ass). Its really just a pretty picture, and in real life will never hopefully hit those velocities. Since that kind of mass flow means you have a hole in a piston or two, which would be bad. I didnt feel like clamping the mass flow and/or dont exactly know how. Yay pretty pictures.
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Each line is one air.
There are many airs in there. |
Lol. Much Air Very Flow, Wow such Doge.
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Any reason you're going this route over VTA? Simply to pull Vacuum and draw vapors out (instead of a slash cut)?
-Zach |
Originally Posted by thasac
(Post 1104892)
Any reason you're going this route over VTA? Simply to pull Vacuum and draw vapors out (instead of a slash cut)?
-Zach |
what would happen if you swiss cheesed the tube sticking into the bottom and made it a little longer? i think it would decrease the speed that the air is in the canister and allow more time for the solids to settle out.
Are you going to add provisions for a drainback into the crankcase like most OEM's do? |
Might work. I'll probably need to cap the tube. It going to have a drain, mine wont be going back to the crank case. I also might end up making it vertical depending on how its packaging up. Which will make the drain work better. They're going to have to have their own sealed drain cans, having more than a coating of oil in the bottom is a no go.
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1 Attachment(s)
Didnt feel like I accomplished much but it was a lot of important things. The car is sitting on the ground, going to do a bit of free dyno work saturday, working on the above 6500 rpm area of the tune mostly want to see 300hp. Might work on the spool area, no idea how much time I'm going to get. I replaced the intake manifold gasket, no change in the vac leak. Pulled the injectors couldnt figure out why they were leaking at first. Then I realized I bent the tips of all of them when I put them in at some point so they werent actually seating in. Filed the aluminum until they would actually seat, put them in, problem solved. Pulled off the mother fucking re-route hose because the mother fucking piece of mother fuck shit was mother fucking still fucking leaking like a mother fucker. Re-adjusted it, put the clamp in a slightly different spot and it doenst seem to be fucking leaking any more. I also fixed the fuel leak at the new fuel line connection finally. So now its only leaking oil. It seems to be leaking from the top VVT banjo bolt and from the oil cooler to block connection. I cant seem to fix the oil cooler leak, its got a brand new mazda seal, and torqued to spec. The vvt line just needs new crush washers, they're on like their 5th use at this point so I guess its just their time.
Got the hood mounted up with the aero catches. Clearing the intercooler pipe wasnt easy. And dealing with how cocked up the front end of the car is was even harder. Like shit, this thing was way more bent than I thought it was. Looks good in the end though. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1393259420 Next week after the dyno I want to do the headlights, mount and wire the power steering pump and maybe get to the catch can, but I feel like thats going to be pushing my luck. So new list Things left to buy in order to race march 30th PS pressure line plywood for splitter, cheap AL angle and channel from home deopt Catch can Things that need to happen power steering wiring design and make a new splitter install new headlight setup align car pick through pile of hoosiers and mount up the best looking non-corded ones mount power steering pump, and do hoses make a working crank case vent setup install correct sway bar blocks Optional corner weight car buy another set of takeoff hoosiers wash exterior cry canards make new and improved intake tube hood prop do the correct crank case vent setup |
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And on to the AOS, here's the open tube design with the tube made longer and the velocity scale changed.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1393263369 And Shlammed suggestiong, same velocity color scale. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1393263369 Whats interesting is the max mass flow rates hardly change between either of these. I cant tell which is better. The open tube makes the air turn more corners ~6 for the further inlet, compared to the ~4 for the holy tube. But the velocity is lower for holy tube, which may or maynot be a good thing for this design. Its definitely a good thing for normal baffled cans and for scrubble packed cans. But part of why this design supposedly works is that the inertial force on the oil throws it against the walls and it sticks to the walls, higher velocity = more inertial force. I'm going to try the open tube design unless I/we come up with something else. |
Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1032163)
Theres no fucking way worn out hoosiers are worse than streets. The 180 run hoosiers on the 15x9s that I took the evo school on were better than streets, without a doubt. As a hoosier ages the peak grip doesnt drop off too quickly, but the "I fucked up, save me hoosier magic, you're my only hope." grip fades away. Thats the grip that happens after the peak grip slip angle. So they just get less forgiving to over driving and fucking up, which is what I really need to work on (and turning in sooner). And you cant tell me that they get that slow, the Dover Evo Shootout was won on 80+ run hoosiers... which happen to be the exact same set I took the evo school on.
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Originally Posted by jacob300zx
(Post 1107176)
Reading your build thread and want to clarify this point in case others take your advice. Its wrong, flat out wrong. My buddies and I are all pretty similar in times in autox and track driving. Got bored one weekend and showed up to the local autox course with my S2000 with 255 RS3 stickers and proceeded to take out all of the fast guys on Saturday that were running there "practice Hoosiers". Hadn't been to an autox in probably 1.5 years when I did this and had TTOD when I left. We have proved time and again over the years that old Hoosiers are fucking junk, YMMV but its not accurate.
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Old worn out bushings killed our last set. I suspect they got exponentially worse near the end if the season last year, multiple Blytheville trips and Lincoln. All is well now in that department and stickers go on at Blytheville pro.
That said I've run old Hoosiers and car had top pax (either by me or Chris) for 17 of the last 22 local events and most of those FTD. But it is car specific and I suspect how the tires have been kept. Our tires are stored inside Chris's house. My c5z on old Hoosier tires I bought used at the beginning was slower than nt05s! |
Hopefully I wont have the worn bushings too much longer I need to save up the $1200 or so dollars its going to cost to get all the sphericals, bearing cups, and spacers that its going to take to make my control arms, and then there's a $100 or so dollars of chromoly tubing, a tube notcher, some aluminum plate and shaft collars for fixtures, and you know shit is expensive. Lol.
Please dont mind the rambling, I've been at work since 8am thursday. |
In SP best we can do is delrin. Best source I found for that was McMaster Carr.
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Originally Posted by FrankL
(Post 1107181)
Old worn out bushings killed our last set. I suspect they got exponentially worse near the end if the season last year, multiple Blytheville trips and Lincoln. All is well now in that department and stickers go on at Blytheville pro.
That said I've run old Hoosiers and car had top pax (either by me or Chris) for 17 of the last 22 local events and most of those FTD. But it is car specific and I suspect how the tires have been kept. Our tires are stored inside Chris's house. My c5z on old Hoosier tires I bought used at the beginning was slower than nt05s! |
Fuck this weekend. On one hand I'm getting like $500 in overtime for work, on the other hand I missed out on free dyno time.
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So new list
Things left to buy in order to race march 30th PS pressure line plywood for splitter Things that need to happen power steering wiring design and make a new splitter install new headlight setup align car pick through pile of hoosiers and mount up the best looking non-corded ones power steering hoses make a working crank case vent setup install correct sway bar blocks Optional corner weight car buy another set of takeoff hoosiers wash exterior cry canards make new and improved intake tube hood prop do the correct crank case vent setup |
7 Attachment(s)
Got some good shit done.
Power steering is plumbed, like a boss, looks like a professional job. I filled it, made a mess (the volvo reservoir does NOT hold a whole quart, fuck), and ran it for a little bit with some super fucking ghetto wiring that involved a plastic spoon. I wanted so badly to just turn the pump on and crank the wheel back and forth with power steering but I doubt that janky wiring would have taken that kind of load, it was getting a bit warm just idling. The harness is on order from volvo, lets hope they dont have to order it from sweden. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394417561 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394417561 The hood's all cut up, headlight covers added, 1 headlight mocked up. I did just one side so I could figure out how to mount the catch can and where I could put the filter/intake stuff. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394417561 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394417561 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394417561 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394417561 Also cutout the splitter. I had to compromise on the material and just went with what was the least warped and wasnt 1/4" or 3/4" so I have 3/8" PTS Fir. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394417561 So new list Things left to buy in order to race march 30th "nothing" Things that need to happen power steering wiring design and make a new splitter install rest of new headlight setup align car pick through pile of hoosiers and mount up the best looking non-corded ones make a working crank case vent setup install correct sway bar blocks Optional corner weight car buy another set of takeoff hoosiers wash exterior canards make new and improved intake tube hood prop do the correct crank case vent setup Wire headlights |
7 Attachment(s)
Got some good shit done.
Power steering is plumbed, like a boss, looks like a professional job. I filled it, made a mess (the volvo reservoir does NOT hold a whole quart, fuck), and ran it for a little bit with some super fucking ghetto wiring that involved a plastic spoon. I wanted so badly to just turn the pump on and crank the wheel back and forth with power steering but I doubt that janky wiring would have taken that kind of load, it was getting a bit warm just idling. The harness is on order from volvo, lets hope they dont have to order it from sweden. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394417577 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394417577 The hood's all cut up, headlight covers added, 1 headlight mocked up. I did just one side so I could figure out how to mount the catch can and where I could put the filter/intake stuff. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394417577 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394417577 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394417577 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394417577 Also cutout the splitter. I had to compromise on the material and just went with what was the least warped and wasnt 1/4" or 3/4" so I have 3/8" PTS Fir. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394417577 Oh and I started making the catch can. Forming that cone was a ----. So new list Things left to buy in order to race march 30th "nothing" Things that need to happen power steering wiring design and make a new splitter install rest of new headlight setup align car pick through pile of hoosiers and mount up the best looking non-corded ones make a working crank case vent setup install correct sway bar blocks Optional corner weight car buy another set of takeoff hoosiers wash exterior canards make new and improved intake tube hood prop do the correct crank case vent setup Wire headlights |
2 Attachment(s)
Apparently I never posted pictures of the power steering pump.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394456225 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1394456225 |
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