2manyhobyz

iTrader: (4)

I finally sat down and read your thread. Props for all your hard work on this build.
As far as the oil spewing problem I would block off the engine block vent for the next event, making one change at a time to see where the problem is. I have the stainless pot scrubber material in the catch can, the chambers of the valve cover, and in air/oil separator in the engine block vent.
Working your way back to a more conventional set up might just be the ticket.
Good Luck,
-JB

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Ran it at the match tour. Car did decent I drove like extra *** on the first day. Catch can issue not fixed. ******* **** *******. Stopped burning a shitload of oil but the Poland springs bottle I used as the reservoir was more over full after 8 runs and you have to remove the splitter to empty it while burning yourself. Solo storm also got all weird and the video is super choppy and I couldnt find my gopro. My co driver has one but no computer that can process the videos. Car still has terminal push. I'm building a rear swaybar. Here's the video.

WAM

Catch can -- can you insert a long plastic tube and siphon it out? Should be safe enough if you use an extra long clear tube.

Understeer -- it must say somewhere earlier, but what are your spring rates?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I could re-design the reservoir to be drainable I guess.

The rates are 840/505. Next weekend I should be picking up some 560lb springs for the rear and shittily the major component I needed for the rear bar (the actual bar) wont be here till monday. I'm going to be making the canards for sure this weekend and I think I'm going to re-do the alignment again and move the rear toe back to zero and drop the rear camber a bit more and increase the rear pressure. Or I guess I could try putting the stock bar on, I have poly bushings for the rear bar I think. Maybe the binding issue will be minimal with the 505lb springs and 150lb helpers. God I hope Emillio doesnt see this or I'll never hear the end of it.

FrankL

I'm not sure what Emilio has to do with your autox car.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Really? The 850/500 with the big front bar is a pretty normal miata racetire setup up this way. It ends up with an FRC of like 60%, which is just about right.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

But, its not working.

Don't rely just on the numbers.

PS, you should try my catch can line I described in the bottom end build. I bet it would work.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I think I am running your catch can line, I only have the exhaust side valve cover hooked up with a -10AN. But its out the stock hole drilled larger. I need to just buy another stock valve cover or make the baffle hole I drilled smaller and it should go back to how it was last year. Which might also mean I'll start pushing oil out of the valve cover gasket and the oil pan gaskets again.

Number wise I think you're right. The 60% FRC is good for a non-aero car, I need to take my own advice on how to tune aero auto-x cars and make it looser.

TNTUBA

iTrader: (1)

I think he might have seen a small portion of "the light" with that last post. We don't race spread sheet ls or calculators

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I thought we raced calculators? What the heck was going on at the MathTour last weekend? I felt like I needed a phd and a matlab script to figure out what the **** was going on with the scoring. I just kept pulling up to the line until they told me not to.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Well since my gopro is awol I bought 3 of those nabi square HDs on WOOT last week (lol $70 camera with basically the same guts as a hero3 silver and comes with a 32gb SD card), and I figured out how to use my old brokenish otter box case and some random gopro mounts to make my phone mount better. So I'm going to have more data and video than I know what to do with. The metal for my sway bar didnt come in time to make it this weekend so I'm not going to do the local this saturday, instead I'll be fabbing the rear sway bar, the car is already re-aligned to what I think should work with the rear bar.

I did do some fun things this weekend though, like canards.






Then I removed the radio finally. I guess its a real racecar now, I had to make a spiffy gauge panel to go in the radio spot.


And I had to drive all over the place to find somewhere that had choreboy copper scrubbers. No I didnt use them to make a crack pipe, which seems like their primary use these days. But it had to be chore boys, I had some copper scrubbers at home but they turned out to be copper coated steel, and thats a no go here.





And thats that. All I've got left is to make the rear sway bar. If I suck a huge dick at that I can put the stock 12mm bar in with some poly bushings to try that out but the custom 3/4" hollow bar in roller bearings should work a lot better. And this is kind of my test run for making the same style bar up front.

TNTUBA

iTrader: (1)

Those canards look cheaty as a ****.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

In what way? They follow the outline of the splitter when viewed from above, and I followed the canard rules for making the splitter because I swear thats how the rule was written. Or are you saying they look too big? I cambered them enough to be legal, they're like 1 in^2 under the max each the car in total is 1-5 in^2 under the limit now depending on your measurement error.

I'm probably going to end up re doing them at least once before the next national event for the car. They might rip out of the bumper the first time the car gets up to speed. They're only held on with 5 3/16" rivets with normal sized washer on the rivets as backup.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Rear swaybar was pretty awesome. I ended up failing at math (10 + 10 + 20 = 30 right?) and screwing up my piece of stock for the custom rear bar. Instead I put the stock bar back in the rear with poly bushings. Turns out the poly bushings from the Amazon complete kit fit the bar like a hot dog down a hallway, I could see light between the bushing and the bar. So I stuck a washer between the bushing and the subframe and that tightened it up enough that it didnt feel floppy, still slide side to side wicked easy and the stock bar is loaded side to side A LOT. Obviously I dont have 12mm shaft collars on hand, so I used duct tape and it seemed to do a decent job. The bar definitively wasnt binding, dont know if it was the helper springs or the poly bushings, the speedway style bar is going to be even better. I'm going to go slightly stiffer on the bar 74lb (what I calculated out the 12mm bar to be) to 104lb (MSM is 144lb) with the option to have a 134lb, 160lb, and 200lb setups by just swapping out the bars. I think the 104lb bar and a bit of toe in will be better than what I had yesterday, it was still doing a bit of the toe out slalom uncertainty, I still cant slalom as fast as the power steering pump can keep up like I could with the super pushy setup.

I have no info on the canards because the rear bar changed the attitude of the car so much.

The catch can tank was empty, chore boys did their job.

Oh and the coolant finally burped, now I actually get enough coolant expanding into my polandsprings brand coolant overflow that it sloshes out and sprays the windshield a bit. Got to work on that now.

New cameras worked out pretty decent, I havent checked the solostorm vids to see how to new phone mount worked.


Oh and the power steering pump fitting that was going to fix that leak was mispackaged.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Solostorm video is up. The new mount made from a couple gopro sticky mounts, a "broken" otter box and a bit of customizing worked well.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

I havent updated this in a while. I didnt really do much to the car since then. New sway bar is pimp. But I need to make V2 now which is a little bit more expensive but now I think I found a bronze spherical bearing in an aluminum housing that will fit the stock sway bar bolts. I was having some bar shift at the evo school this weekend, nothing that caused a major problem but the hose clamps I used did not fix it. The new bearings will allow me to fit shaft collars so that should fix that. I'm considering going to the bigger bar I ordered for it, putting it stiffer than the MSM rear bar. But the car was so perfect on the stiffer setting at evo I dont really want to mess with it too much.

The brakes with parts store fronts and hp+ rear are now basically perfect, besides being squishy as ****, more bleeding I guess. But not you can just stand on the pedal as hard as you can and the mother ****** slows the **** down with extreme prejudice.

The brakes need to be bled, and I need to work on my over flow and catch tanks. The oil catch tank line pulled out of the tank, and the coolant overflow is kind of fixed to where it doesnt get much coolant onto the windshield. I need to swap the good A6s back onto the wheels. The R6s did their job at the evo school, never letting up even when being hot lapped to ****.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Found the picture I took of the endlink and arm from rear sway bar V1.



And this is what one of the EBC reds looked like coming out of the back. I'm guessing thats from the auto-x run I left the e-brake half on for.



Now I'm already starting to narrow down what I want to accomplish as my off season mods. Once I'm happy with sway bar V2 I'm freezing development on the car for the rest of the year to build up some cash reserves. I'm "done" spending money on the car for the rest of the season, besides gas, entry fees, and 1 more set of hohos.

I'm going to focus on knocking the sharp edges off the car because my dad had to have his spleen removed last week because he had a tumor on his pancreas so got to minimize those cuts and infections due to the car. And then focus on weight reduction.

New cnc'ed carbon fiber wing endplates with no sharp corners, ~$300
Autokonexion aero fenders (kevlar) and N1 rear flares and rocker rot repair, ~$1400
Cheapest Kirkey with a cloth cover to go in the drivers spot, redo the seat bracket again, bolt the current seat to the floor on the pass side ~$300
Lap belts and remove the stock belts ~$150
Hard top and remove soft top $800
Gut trunk $100 for new hold downs
Finish gutting hood $free

On to the maybe category

Brakes trying to figure out the lightest front setup, lightest rear will be racing brakes rear rotors and FM powerlites, I'm afraid to do this because the brakes are nearly perfect
New control arms all around
Aluminum down pipe back exhaust, pretty dependent on time and if I actually start making and selling aluminum exhausts and mufflers.

For the hard top. I'm waiting on a letter I sent to the SEB about prepared class. If it goes though I'll buy a treasurecoast light weight hard top. If it doesnt go through I'll buy an OEM hardtop, and SM brackets.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

oh ok its been a while since I updated this. I put in a new coolant reservoir so that it stopped spraying coolant on the windshield when the car was up to temp.

Did one race, couldnt get the damn R6s from the evo school swapped back over to the A6s before the race. Heat cycled out to **** and sucky. I actually got the nabi cameras to all turn on with one remote but I didnt realize I was having starting issues and missed my best run on all the cameras besides the data.


Did some random club local, didnt feel like setting up data, forgot to charge the cameras before the event. Conned away 3 runs that would have been FTD, didnt set a clean run.


I think out of 60 cars signed up getting 10 runs each there must have been over 600 cones called in and out of the top 5 in FTD there were like 7 clean runs, including me with none. 5th in ftd with a run carrying a cone.

WAM

Cute DIY swaybar. Is the shaft collar just friction locked, or did you do something more to control slippage?

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Its just friction. Thats why its using the "extra grip" shaft collar that uses 5/16" bolts rather than the normal 1/4". I have to use a torque wrench on them to ensure that I get enough clamping force.

In a couple weekends I'm going to try a different bearing that should make these just be able to be bolted onto the stock studs then consider selling them. I've also got a small re-design to do on the arms because I failed at math again, I could have made them longer and also I now know the limit of where I can put adjustment holes. I can sell them for only a little more than Emillio charges for the MSM rear bars.