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If you can braze the copper fittings, you should. It's not that the tin won't hold the temperature or the pressure but the vibration and movement might break the joint. It's one of those things where you don't have to but if you do you won't ever have any problems with kinda thing.
And the cap for the speedo is suspect since that should be an o-ring plug but if you silly-cojoned it nice it should hold. It's definitely thick enough.
And for posterity, please make new radiator fan brackets. Or get the fan that fits that radiator. It'll likely weigh the same, pull more air, and not make a howling noise when activated.
Or tell me to go **** off. You have better things to do.
I have no idea how to braze copper/brass. I can barely do steel. Also I was heat challenged near the firewall. I'm glad the cat hair insulation is required to be fire resistant. I'm planning on switching to the lighter NB style heater core next winter and using an fittings, so it's only got to last a year.
I've got an oring in there. No boss to locate it, but it's sitting on the oring flat.
I want to make new brackets, and at least make a 3rd one for that radiator. Those are just what I used on the stock size rad. With my custom mounting I can probably just run a factory civic that bolts directly to the rad.
Failed to start it this week. Zero signal on the composite logger from either the crank or cam sensor. This engine uses VR crank, hall Cam. I quintuple checked that I had both VR wires going to the CMP pins on the connector and that the hall signal wire went to the CMP+. With my fluke 27/m I did see voltage go positive and negative when I moved the vr sensor near and far from steel with the tips jammed into the ecu connector. I left all my alligator clips at my apartment so I couldn't diagnostic the cam sensor but it seems kind of moot. All my jump packs were dead, and my main battery was low, I also forgot to friggin try and see if I got triggers by turning the ecu on and just wrenching over the engine by hand.
If we back up, I blew 2 5v fuses because I had the ground of the cam sensor going to the 5v rail with the VIN of the cam sensor going to 12v. Lol. I didnt see any **** stains on the board from doing that. I need to order more of those fuses by the way.
I ordered a Vellman 140i hand held o-scope because I havent gotten around to fixing the top end HP analog scope I was given for free. It'll be just adequate enough to use trackside.
I did finally bleed the clutch. I need to extendo the clutch rod, right now its kind of pulling the clutch pedal forward and its got just enough stroke right now to release fully at the bottom of the pedal.
I finished up the fuel system and tested it. I was working on tightening an AN fitting on the return line under the car and then I heard the gushing. That gauge wasnt liquid filled when I bought it.
I found the nice glycerine filled one I bought for the last fuel system for like $60 and installed that, no more leaks.
This little nugget of an intercooler actually fits. I now have balleaur garrett IC core. I really wish they made it like 4 inches longer and the end caps were a little shorter. Maybe later on I'll figure out how to cram the one thats 6" longer in if this one has heat problems. This one is 12x12x4.5.
Oh yeah I installed the honda radiator fan, stock EG honda fan. I had the clearance the shroud for one of the sway bar bolts.
Does the crank sensor connector have an easy way of shoving a resistor in there between 12v and signal? That's the quick and dirty way I got mine to work. I then wired it in the ecu and to 5v. I did the cam just because, don't know it was necessary.
Still no starting. With a charged battery it saw the crank on the composite log. After testing I added the 1k ohm pullup resistor to the cam sensor and still no dice. And then I proceded to **** around with it all day, including going to autozone to find a new cam sensor in case mine was just weak. I would only get a 2Vish difference on the cam going from like 6.5v to 8.5v. I finally looked up the god damn MAX9926 specs because I've got like 10 of them kicking around at home and its whats in the MS3P and decided to try hooking 5v reff to the cmp- pin that MS told me to leave floating. And... then the car wouldnt crank. I was too abusive to this battery I guess. I drained it kind of low this morning, then charged it up while I did other stuff, then I guess it had enough and one of the cells swell. None of my jump packs had enough nut left in them either, but when supplying 12v to the ecu and cranking it over with a ratchet it ******* worked that way. I got cam and crank triggers on the composite log.
Anyone know the heaviest battery that fits in the stock location thats cheap? I need to ballast this car anyways and the god damn hobby king battery I was using is out of stock, and no one sells anything similar within $200.
I have a 52lb optima yellow top battery in mine, it was around 230 or so. If you're interested I can go check what model it is. It fits in my NB, and has all the cranking amps and reserve capacity. Thing is a beast.
Still no start. Turns out when the 2.5s came out the ford triggers changed. I used a ford cam and crank wheel for this because I believed it was directly supported by the MS using the Zetec VTC setting and I couldnt confirm that the mazda wheels worked. So the ford wheels are 36-1 crank and 4+1+1 cam, the same cam as the mazda. If I just put a NC miata crank pulley on then I still cant have VVT because the 36-2-2-2 encoder doesnt work for sequential with the 4+1+1 cam wheel. The Mazda6 2.3 encoder is what I need, but DIYAT specifically requested that encoder be disabled on MS3P installations, so I have to mod the tunerstudio main .ini file to enable it to work and install the mazda crank pulley and I should be good to go. Unless DIYAT decides to make an encoder for what I have installed in the car, which is a mix and match of encoders they already have. I also discovered that the early duratecs used VR cam sensors so I can throw this Hall effect **** in the ******* trash and not worry about it failing at high under hood temps like the BP cam sensor.
I made some battery bracketry. I didnt feel like paying $25 + $12 shipping to mazda to buy the HD battery bracket to fits this battery so I just extended my stuff. Closest metal in the shop was 3/8" rod so I used that. Its not going anywhere. I should have use a group 34R instead of a normal group 34 so that I could have spun it 180 deg and not stretched the cables so far.
I was also tired of having the brakes stick after 2 auto-x runs and need to re-lube them after every event. I determined the issue is the ******* anti-rattle rubber bit and being unable to find the right brand that doesnt ******* swell when using the permatex purple I just came up with this fix. There is play in the slider pin hole, but really its about as much as the rubber probably flexed. After thinking about it over night, I'm probably going to cut the bolts shorter and put some wrench flats on them for using the jam nut. THe lube makes it looks like I have threads exposed, that's not true, the threads are fully wound up to the bracket. If I had a lathe I would make a cleanup cut to take off the trailing threads to reduce the stress concentration, but I'm not terribly worried about it for my application.
I installed the exhaust bits back from the coater. Someday I will install one of these without marring it all up, and without getting anti-sieze all over it, but thats not this day. Also I had the wastegate coated too, I couldnt find anyone else to ever do this posted online. You'd see swaintech white lightning coated parts on some crazy *** porsche, but the wastegate would be uncoated. I had them do the gate body and the heat shield, I figured it couldn't hurt.
And bonus electronics project, this is for putting 4 wheels speed sensors into the MS, for data logging and, uh stuff. I'll 3d print a case for it.
I'm going to have to print an integrated elbow into my turbo inlet to clear the sway bar and the massive honda fan. I worked Sunday of this weekend because I had to take care of my fiance with pneumonia, because I love her very much and she really wanted to be included in the build thread.
Interested to see you play with the megasquirt traction control. They have some interesting methods right now. Averaging and stuff. Wish I had wired in 4 sensors.
Interested to see you play with the megasquirt traction control. They have some interesting methods right now. Averaging and stuff. Wish I had wired in 4 sensors.
Traction control? Thats the thing you do with your foot.
03-16-2017, 07:09 AM
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