To SSM Ahead of Schedule
01-19-2016, 06:51 AM
#523
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Guys remember this has been done before. Turns101 on this site did the swap a few years back for a drift car. While the build thread din't have a lot of detail on the swap I do believe he had a custom wet sump pan made and he used the factory subframe *but* I do believe he relieved it quite a bit for oil pan clearance. Don't quote me on that, Look up the thread. Whatever mod he did it held up with the wet sump. Thing made like 600hp and 450tq at around 7k rpm so oiling system was critical for survival.
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01-19-2016, 08:05 AM
#524
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Guys remember this has been done before. Turns101 on this site did the swap a few years back for a drift car. While the build thread din't have a lot of detail on the swap I do believe he had a custom wet sump pan made and he used the factory subframe *but* I do believe he relieved it quite a bit for oil pan clearance. Don't quote me on that, Look up the thread. Whatever mod he did it held up with the wet sump. Thing made like 600hp and 450tq at around 7k rpm so oiling system was critical for survival.
There's also a road race car locally that has this engine swapped in but they sectioned the fire wall about 6 inches because they had the crank pulley behind the subframe.
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01-19-2016, 04:35 PM
#525
I know you mentioned general dimensions. Any chance at getting a few more detailed dimensions? (L,W,H, crank center, mayhaps longblock weight, ect). I've found some not compelling results from the locost group, and would love you long time if you could grab some.
Full disclosure, this would be for a non-miata based project initially.
Full disclosure, this would be for a non-miata based project initially.
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01-24-2016, 08:10 PM
#527
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Oil pan works better than expected. I think I only need to tweak one of the PS lines on the rack for clearance. Getting that stock oil pump off is a pita though, have to remove the timing chain. I'm also going to have to relocate the brake lines where the cross over on the firewall, too close to the cylinder head and stuff. That was the plan, moving the abs brick to the trunk anyways. Also going to have to go to an NB heater core so its easier to run AN fittings straight out of the firewall to run tight 90° bends to avoid the intake manifold.
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01-25-2016, 07:59 AM
#529
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Just remove the pump and the pump's chain. The pump chain is annoyingly behind the timing chain. No block off needed since the pump passage just goes to the oil filter plate and it will get sealed there by the remote mount filter plate.
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01-25-2016, 09:16 PM
#531
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Since pace race is the only ones with an exhaust side kit off the shelf, and they didnt get back to me. I'm going to be buying my own pump, most likely from nutter racing. My main issues are going to be figuring out exactly what sized pressure stage I want, and if I can get a pulley that doesnt require ordering from europe (and if said pulley works with the stock crank pulley or if I'll be forced to buy from europe). Using circle track parts or at least small block chevy parts whenever possible seems like a great way to save money while getting bomb proof ****.
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01-26-2016, 02:20 PM
#532
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Since pace race is the only ones with an exhaust side kit off the shelf, and they didnt get back to me. I'm going to be buying my own pump, most likely from nutter racing. My main issues are going to be figuring out exactly what sized pressure stage I want, and if I can get a pulley that doesnt require ordering from europe (and if said pulley works with the stock crank pulley or if I'll be forced to buy from europe). Using circle track parts or at least small block chevy parts whenever possible seems like a great way to save money while getting bomb proof ****.
The gates multi-rib belts are fairly standard. You can run a 4 rib belt (what is stock for the AC/PS on all miatas) on a pulley for more ribs just fine, as long as the 4-rib is enough for the job at hand, which it should be, since it can run the AC compressor, ps pump and a supercharger. Those together are ~15hp at max RPM and I doubt an oil pump uses anywhere near that.
In short, get a pulley that will work for a gates multy rib belt and you should be able to make it work just fine.
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01-26-2016, 08:36 PM
#533
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Dont think that I didnt seriously consider using a 4 rib belt. I know on the old blown cavalier it was putting about 40hp through a 4 rib belt. At most I can figure a dry sump pump should draw 15hp. But really I just dont want to chance slipping on my oil pump.
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01-31-2016, 02:18 PM
#534
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2.5 liter, from a focus. Same block as the 2.3 but bored out and with a longer stoke and the best flowing mzr/duratec head. All the motors are basically the same, this one has the extra mounts on the timing cover to use it in a fwd car. But as I just found out its missing the holes for the Ranger pickup tube supports.
Speaking of which, it doesn't matter because the Ranger pan doesn't work. The bump to clear the oil pump and pickup tube falls directly into the power steering lines. Might work on a manual rack. Looks like I'm back to needing dry sump.
Speaking of which, it doesn't matter because the Ranger pan doesn't work. The bump to clear the oil pump and pickup tube falls directly into the power steering lines. Might work on a manual rack. Looks like I'm back to needing dry sump.
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01-31-2016, 02:51 PM
#536
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I dont think many of the euro guys mess with anything besides the 2.0. The builders up there seem to have settled onto the 2.3 as not having as much potential and they dont have many 2.5s over there. Of course there's a ton of engine builders with turn key 200hp+ N/A 2.0 solutions and a handful with 280hp+ pump gas turn key solutions. Right now the plan is to run the stock 2.5 minus balance shafts for a couple years until I decide what direction I want to go. Mondo sized turbo on a built 2.5, keep the 6758 and go to a 2.0 and different gearing, or shoot for one of those crazy over 300whp n/a builds and remove all the weight.
Either route you choose to go I think its a better choice than trying to use a BP. I would suggest looking into Mountune they have some nice intake manifolds for rwd applications. Race Engines
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01-31-2016, 05:01 PM
#537
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I hadnt seen those guys before, interesting. I had pretty much resigned myself to either ITBs or making my own intake manifold if I found the NC manifold to be insufficient.
I ordered a T5 today, just a normal 90-93 high nickel gear version. If I blow it up I'll just rebuild it into an A5.
I ordered a T5 today, just a normal 90-93 high nickel gear version. If I blow it up I'll just rebuild it into an A5.
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02-01-2016, 06:23 AM
#539
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They weigh almost 20 pounds and spin at twice the crank rpm so it's like doing a light weight flywheel. And they like to explode slice 7k rpms because they're intentionally unbalanced shafts. They also don't physically fit in the miata engine bay.
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02-29-2016, 07:29 PM
#540
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Parts have come in. Bellhousing is in. That clears everything, but the damn thing is off center like 27 thou so I have to get some misalignment dowel pins, not a huge deal, it was expected but its bad enough that best I'm going to see is 6 thou total runout with off the shelf pins since they max out at 21 thou. Which is about a thou more than you really want but I'll deal I guess. Tranny comes in tomorrow so I'll start to be able to do more work again.
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