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Instead of working on the garage last week I crammed the vic in the and completely replaced the front suspension for 325 dollars, like brand new control arms and ****. ******* american cars.
I did work on the garage the week before though getting the electrical setup. The garage is 8ft to the eve, you need the drip loop on the service entrance at least 12ft off the ground meaning the actual weather head needs to be at least 13. Well you can only have the conduit go 28inchs above the roof line without a guy wire. So since I had to run a guy wire anyways I went 6 feet above the roof so I'd have more clearance under the wires in the driveway.
I also spent all day Sunday digging a trench so that it won't flood when we get hit by hurricane Irma.
Yesterday diy shipped the ECU back to me so maybe it'll come Saturday. But I want to finish wiring the garage and then get back to the car. I also bought a radium Engineering pcv block plate to fix my stupid pcv problems with the house and caps and plugs and ****.
Got the ECU back, hondabonded the seam so even if it warps again it won't leak.
Then I bought some balleaur radium Engineering stuff for the pcv. I red loctited the tiny screws because I didn't want that stuff to fall into the engine, no idea why it didn't come with any loctite. The factory seal didn't fit well so I handabonded around it.
Then I kicked *** on the wiring harness and the vacuum lines. Every line is hose clamped and all the barn fittings are stainless.
Added this here nipple so I could get waste gate signal from a good place. Had to weld in the dark due to the electricity situation in the garage.
Then the garage for electrified by the power company which made me very happy. I just need to put my switch plates on and it will pass finish electrical inspection. I also drove up Maine and bought a nice kerosene heater for 200 bucks to heat the garage with.
Raced it Sunday, stupidly fast. Had to have my fiance hold it in second gear the whole time. I know why. Also My pinion snubber want enough to fix the drive train flex so I guess I'm adding a transmission mount. Last run of the day the from thy factory ford Ranger coolant pipe connection blew and I puked the whole cooling system of water in 30 seconds. Most of it landed on the splitter. In going to cancel the dyno that and redo the coolant system with a header tank in the cowl and safety wire this connection from failing.
Most annoying part is that the car wasn't over heating at all like the rad fan only cycled a little. Which means the thing was finally bled, and then I pumped the system empty basically when it blew. I need a fan for the intercooler though, that thing was getting warm and not cooling down.
Its a pretty simple plate, hope its ok. I'm sure the people that didnt loctite those little screws eventually regret that. But other than that should be fine.
I'm trying to decide if I want to do an electric water pump and what size. It seems that anything more than about 10 second over 7500rpm with the factory water pump = 290*F. I'm on the fence between doing it now or over the winter.
I'm trying to decide if I want to do an electric water pump and what size. It seems that anything more than about 10 second over 7500rpm with the factory water pump = 290*F. I'm on the fence between doing it now or over the winter.
Maybe I looked over a 9k rpm rev limiter for your engine, but when are you over 7500 for more than 10 seconds?
Maybe I looked over a 9k rpm rev limiter for your engine, but when are you over 7500 for more than 10 seconds?
Only spinning to 8k. It'll be pretty unlikely I'll spend over 10 seconds over 70mph. But still the water pump is a weak spot in these motors. I'm thinking I'll just do it over the winter.
I get that, but I don't think there's any autoX trophies for pretty. I read this thread and think any time spent on making it look better is time not spent on doing something different.
Someday, when I have some real tools I wont have to do sketchy things like this. If you drill really really slow off to the side of a tube with a 1/4" drill eventually it'll drill mostly straight so you can pilot the unibit through.
I was too into it to take pictures part way through. You know the dynasty 180 welds way better plugged into 220 than 110. First time I've ever used it that way, went well. It looks good enough that I dont feel the need to check to see if its water tight.
This part here pretty much sums up the entire car. Nothing is ever ******* easy. I had to make my own god damn reducing nipple T because I couldnt find one like this. I had a threaded T with the right sizes and the right threaded fittings to go in but it was way bigger and more than twice as heavy.
I took off the part sticking out into the flow path by very slowly running a hole saw down there.
I forgot to take a full picture of **** installed. I need put that T in the lower rad hose and run that line and put an overflow bottle in.
I also checked to see if I could install a tranny mount to make my driveline flex go down but then I saw that the bolts that connect my PPF adapter to the tranny were loose. I think the threads in the T5 are kind of screwed up. They dont inspire confidence when tightening, I might end up drilling it out and threading it for the next size up bolt. Or if that's sketchy I'll just through bolt and nut. Otherwise I can't find the flex in the mounting.
I finished plumbing it last night and I put the right stars orings on the coolant tube. It went together much better, no idea why ford sold it with the orings they did. I also safety wired the connection to be extra sure.
And then I bled it, I think the surge tank is very effective because it took forever idling it to get hot enough for the fan to come on. Also didn't really do any big burps. People should really do this on BPs when they do a reroute. This engine when plumbed like a rerouted BP was super hard to bleed, like I don't think it was actually fully bled even act racing twice. And with the surge tank in the cowl I didn't even have to tilt the car or anything fancy, you see hustlers magic butt funnel in there but that's just because it's a nice funnel. Side note it also barely fit the vibrant filler neck because the through hole is a smaller diameter.
09-08-2017, 08:19 AM
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