That is correct. The cross weight, which is the middle number on the screen (50.2%) is the most important. I don't think you could ever get the corners even without physically moving weight around. But the cross weight (LR -> RF, RR -> LF) works out to be the same percentage of total weight.

Cross weights are 8 lbs off, you're honestly chasing hopes and dreams if you want it closer, especially if the car and yourself aren't 100% at race weight.

I meant that I wasn't sure if I adjusted the corners I should have vs the numbers able to be better. I did all the adjusting by raising the LF shock collar. I'm sure someone that knew what they were doing could have done something differently.

Not all that worried about chasing every last bit of performance. I was a tenth off top pax at the last event with it being at 53.5% cross weight.

Apparently corner balancing it made it handle like garbage.


Throttle position sensor stopped working on the next run. Spent 15 minutes with a crap meter and couldn't figure out if it was the wiring, the sensor, or both. Said fuck it and drove other cars. Was way too hot to deal with working on the car.

Fixed the garbage. Took BFH, cut off wheel, and welder to shock tower area. No more tire rubbing.

I've lost camber somewhere, but haven't found the culprit yet. I've got the eccentrics maxed in the front, and barely have much over 3* of camber, even with ELBJ's. I've taken the whole stupid thing apart and can't figure out what's wrong there.

This turned out way cooler than expected. Looks like I sped it up. Nuts.


Fastest run:

Bent FLCA?

It's both sides, though...and they max out to basically the same amount. They aren't obviously bent, but not really sure how to prove they aren't.

Ran my car with four people yesterday, including Grant Reeve (previous SSR champ, and won countless other things). Worked out exactly as I hoped, as Grant noticed a few things that I've just been driving around all year. My results have been pretty good, and I didn't hate the way the car drove, so I wasn't sure what direction to go in to actually make it faster. Grant gets in and pretty much immediately notices that it just plows everywhere. So, we softened the front shocks some, and it helped a lot. Then went further and it helped some more, but it was a bit too floppy. Went back up a hair and they're probably in the right spot now. Still some more to be gained by playing with tire pressures and alignment. But, massive improvement already.

I got top pax (first time as an SSM car, 2nd time ever in my own car), Grant got 5th, Justin 19th, and Matt (first time driving anything with Hoosiers, aero, or horsepower) got 42nd out of 150.

The car didn't miss a beat all day, though Matt lost two of his runs due to his shoes being annoyingly wide and messing with the pedals. We traded shoes and he didn't have any other issues.

Me:

Grant:

Got 2nd in pax last NER event, and was first in pax for the year.


Did a smaller club event this past weekend, but forgot the camera. Got FTD by 2.2s over another "csp" miata, and another "ssm" miata. Also went down to 1000lb front springs, and it definitely felt better. I'd probably settle on 950's if a set came up for sale.

Have started on the winter projects.

• Swap to 6 speed (ordered, will be here next week)
• Ordered Radium fuel rail. Need to order a FPR. No real reason for this other than I want to clean up the fuel lines so it's not snaking around the stupid throttle body.
• IGN1A coils
• Install ABS
• Remove headlights/swap to random projectors
• Swapping to a non-vvt cylinder head because I just can't figure it out. So annoyed/frustrated/pissed off that I just can't get it to work properly.
• *crossing fingers* swapping to an EFR 6258

Currently in the process of doing a bunch of wiring. Trying to consolidate all of the engine wiring into a single plug. Have all of the plugs made, just need to figure out what plug I want and then hook everything up.

Started on the ABS today. Hacked up the NA fuse box bracket, and the NB abs bracket and made them one with each other. Installed all the brake lines. Need to snag the ball joint separator from my friend to swap the front knuckles.

Also failed to realize the rear ABS connectors are different than the front. Ballenger has the fronts (which I ordered 4 of), but don't seem to have the rears. Anyone know what they are? I can also just crimp onto the pig tails I have, but would have been nice to have all new plugs.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...0aaafe6768.jpg
One of my better welds
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...60b898c3c9.jpg
NA fuse box bracket meet NB ABS bracket
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e503793a8a.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...47ca17109a.jpg

DIY'd some control arm mount gussets.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...392400fe16.jpg
CAD
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...075d90f9f1.jpg
It'll hold, at least

Hmmm....this showed up today. Off to Lars tomorrow.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fa7397eb17.jpg

In for updates! This thread is relevant to my interests... Kind of. I'm of the mindset that, should the CSP apple cart be upset, I'm more likely to mozy on over to DP than I am to jump to SSM.

Ryan - out of curiosity, what ride height did you end up settling at? Getting used to the CSP car I kept finding more grip and slicing more tire. On a whim just checked the ride height with the NB rollers (diameter is actually really close to the 275 ho-hos) and it was just over 9mm in front. Yeah, that's getting changed. . . and might explain why I had to cut so much that fender flares wouldn't fit. I suspect more travel would prove to be better... funny thing is, I recall it being closer to 4.x" up front.

Question for TNTuba - I saw above that you broke the SSM car last season. Was that at Peru? I encouraged a bunch of younger miata guys to come to a national event and they were googly-eyed over your car. (I'm the guy that had the 15x11s brought up to the Toledo Pro (or champ?) in '17.)

SSM is way more fun :)

Ride height are around 4.25" to the pinch welds. Probably an 1/8" higher in the rear.

4.25... about 1/2" higher than I sit. Seriously no clue what happened there. I could've sworn I was right around 4 but couldn't find my tape after corner weighting.
SSM probably more fun... but $$$^3 vs staying in CSP, losing to Davis, Tovsen et all, and only $$^2.
Then again, a high-ish compression motor and a Rotrex would be amazeballs.

I'm honestly not sure I'm really into this for that much money compared to what I would have been had I stayed in CSP - since I needed a new engine anyway. MK Turbo kit + pre-loved bottom end meant I was into an SSM engine for what I would have spent all new parts for a really good CSP engine.

I had a roller that I was going to turn into a DP car at one point. Decided it was kind of pointless. If you could run a DP car at ~1600lbs with a VVT engine...that might change my opinion of it.

Yeah, that's understandable. When an engine with forged internals falls into your lap that inexpensive, then its a no brainer. In my case, I've got a BP4W that I rebuilt, though it wasn't a true CSP build. (Just a basic refresh with rings, shave and honing.) That said, I have a "free" VVT engine that's sitting on a stand. I was told it ran great but needed timed. Plan is a full CSP engine build, though probably next winter. My season is going to be cut short this year anyway, so its looking like Toledo/Peru in June and that might be about it for national level events. MAYBE Oscoda? We'll see.

Yea. I did break the crank at the Peru National Tour.

Had it running the following weekend ;)

And I agree with Ryan. SSM is where all the cool kids are.

Oh.....and my ride heights are around 4.25" front and I adjust the balance of the car with rear ride height. So it could be + or - 1/8" or so from that number.