Well, trying to start it...and not having any luck. Getting some pops and bangs, but nothing really in the way of it wanting to start.

Cranking battery voltage is in the 10's...at somewhere between 215-250rpm. It's been so long since I last ran this thing that I can't remember if that's normal or not.

Things I've noticed:
- Timing light doesn't work while cranking
- Timing light does work in test mode when manually lighting plugs
- Can definitely smell fuel
- Had battery on charger, then switched to jumping it off my truck. Gained some cranking RPM by doing that, but nothing else

Going to stop for today and let the battery charge overnight. Any help would be appreciated!

God damnit. Forgt attachments were fubar.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzV...w?usp=drivesdk

Hope that link works.

Bah. Still no luck.

Things I did today:
- Took valve cover off and double checked the cams/crank are timed. Stuck zip tie in hole 1 to make sure that was at TDC, since I can't actually see it on the crank because of the ATI damper. With #1 at TDC, marks on cam shaft are lined up, and the TDC mark on the ATI damper lines up with TDC on the timing cover.
- Was messaging someone on a MS page from facebook. He suggested some stuff. Got it to sputter some more.
- Got a new battery to rule out voltage issues

The gas is from the fall. I feel like it should still be fine, but tempted to drain the tank and refill with new gas.

Here's the current tune and a log of a start attempt.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pw...CzsfBE--bYBgNe
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Xi...w5a0IyhvAjulls

Sigh.

You've seen the ATI pulley issues thread right

Yeah. Mine is supposedly unaffected. Was built sometime in September/October. But...who knows?

Next time you try to crank it, capture a composite log (Under "Diagnostics and High Speed Loggers") and post it here. Sounds like a possible crank trigger issue since you confirmed the timing is correct.

Yeah. I was pretty much having nightmares that the trigger wheel is off. I'm pretty sure I have a composite log from the last time the car ran (different engine, but same trigger wheel). Going to compare tonight. Will post.

Fuck. No idea how I'm getting the ATI damper off if it's actually incorrect

Maybe someone can double check this. I realized this picture has the engine lined up at TDC (you can faintly make out the marks on the damper), and the missing teeth are just advanced of it. That makes sense, right?

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...48d754eb5c.jpg

Trigger wheel looks backwards. The gap in the teeth should be to the left of the damper dowel pin with everything lined up TDC.

Yep, almost certain you're right. UGHHHHHHHHHHH.

Wow, I did not know you could bolt on the ATI wheel backwards. The SuperMiata one has it setup so you can only bolt it one way to prevent this.

The trigger wheel is the FM one. Maybe it's different from ATI's design?

Looking in per your PM request but looks like you guys already found one of the problems?
is it a stock tooth count/design trigger wheel?

My only input at this point (having not seen the tune/logs) is that FF's will need much more than req_fuel tweaking to run from a stock injector map. idle cells usually go up at least 10-20%

Ohh, I honestly don't know much about what trigger wheels work with the ATI damper. But if the wheel is on backwards the would keep your car from running.

This is the wheel I have: https://www.flyinmiata.com/36-2-tooth-timing-wheel.html

Their instructions: https://www.flyinmiata.com/support/i...ng%20wheel.pdf

On the second page of the instructions with the lowest picture you can see the missing teeth on the other side. So I bet you have it flipped backwards. That will 100% explain why the car would not start.

and if htat doesn't help
https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...o-start-88681/

Thanks, some interesting info in there. Luckily, I don't think that happened to me as the previous engine ran on this same wheel (on a stock damper).

Going to stop get a puller on my way home, and then have a blast removing the radiator, and sway bar to get the impact in there. Hope it comes off easier than it went on.

That would explain why your timing light looks like it isn't working. The timing mark will be way off the side of the scale. You might be able to get away with putting in a huge crank trigger timing offset in TunerStudio since you have a 36-2 wheel. I'm not sure of the max value it will let you put in there, but might be worth a shot since you anticipate much pain in pulling the damper.

I've tried 0-10 in increments, and 80-100 in increments. But, seems like it's probably more like 270...? Or -90? If that would work, I might try that first.