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TheBandit's Resurrection Build
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After several years of watching the dust collect due to Subaru awesomeness, it was time for the Miata to be reborn.
And in comes the EFR! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408076100 Build Plans:
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Progress Pics!
Heading over to a friends shop to start mock up. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408111977 Reroute Parts. Just need to weld on the bung. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408111977 Obligatory EFR Unboxed Shot http://i61.tinypic.com/fje3r9.jpg CAD Ninja'd the Collector https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408111977 Paper Mockup. I love Print to Scale! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408111977 Finally got the straights cut and beveled, and threw a few down a few tacks. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408111977 |
Nice plans
Ignition? |
I have a set of Toyota COPS with piggy's in the garage. If I can find a set of GM coils for the right monies, it seems like it might be worth it.
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Got the #1 and #4 runners roughed in this weekend.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408412791 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408412791 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1408412791 |
subscribed...great start there
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Well I ended up buying an extra motor from an '01 car at the local salvage. This of course was after purchasing a VVT head, only to find out you need the crank trigger setup from the new motors to make all that work. DOH!
The block dis-assembly needs to be finished and then I can sent it and the head off to the machine shop for any necessary work. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411478045 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411478045 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411478045 Regrettably, I sent Abe the funds to complete the manifold for me. As much as I wanted to do it myslef, the collector ended up being a headache and for the amount of time involved it made more sense to let him do what he does best. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1411478045 |
Wow very solid start, and that looks like a ABSURDflow style, which I haven't seen done with an EFR yet (that I can remember, though amellrotts got close)
Good stuff |
Yes, this is the "absurdflow" style made famous by TurboTim. Abe has coined the name "Axial" bottom mount for this style. I was also surprised that I hadn't seen this manifold and turbo configured together before. Lets hope that it works as well in application as it does in my head. :)
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Did a quick test fit with the new manifold and turbo setup. It's a tight fit, and will likely require some grind to fit action on the engine bay shelf.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412728015 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412728015 Also, I finally dropped the disassembled engine off at the machine shop. They are going to get started on it this week and I will need to get some parts ordered here soon. The bores looked good and were straight, but the machinist suggested that he would go ahead and re-bore and move up a piston size so that everything would be new. Is this sound advice? The donor block had 125K+ if memory serves so it makes sense, I just worry about any future machine work that might be needed as there doesn't seem to be much meat available to do multiple re-bores. |
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First batch of parts came in! Head is getting a valve job and some porting. Need to get the pistons over to the machine shop for boring.
Bryan at Fab9 has been a pleasure to deal with. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1414630384 |
Originally Posted by TheBandit
(Post 1173837)
I just worry about any future machine work that might be needed as there doesn't seem to be much meat available to do multiple re-bores.
--Ian |
That's probably sound advice. After talking with a few friends and the machine shop I ended up going with the 84mm pistons after all.
I'm hoping to get some further progress pics in the coming weeks. So much time, so little to do.. Wait scratch that. Reverse it. |
yeah going up 1 size should be fine, and more or less mandatory with forged slugs.
looks like you're gonna have to flip the mixing manifold too since the efr compressor completely takes up that space |
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Got the engine back from the machine shop this week. The head had some porting done, which net a change of about 30cfm (200 -> 230) which seems about right according to what I've read. I'm hoping to have some time over the holidays to get started assembling and routing new turbo oil/water lines. I have a fair amount of things to make including the mixing manifold. I'm not going to rush it, I want this done right.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1419084966 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1419084966 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1419084966 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1419084966 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1419084966 |
going to be WICKED!
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The bottom end has been assembled! Test fit the head to get an idea what the intake and turbo would look like. Need to solidify my oil drain situation so I can drill the pan and be done with the bottom end. Surprisingly found out that the damn MBSP had to be drilled out to fit the ARP hardware. That has a bit of a pain, so heads up if you're considering this. It's doable, but takes some time drilling, grinding, and then cleaning. For the aesthetics side of me, I cleaned up the valve cover in prep for powder coat and started rattle canning the vvt hardware and water pump nose/pulley. In the same thought, as much as I know the honda intake has been proven powerful it just looks/feels like a sore thumb to me. I'm considering doing my own the more I look at it.
In other news, I got kinda nutty and ordered some 15x9 Bronze Jong's, 245 RC-1's and an MS3x from Brain. Still need to get a fuel pump/injectors and radiator. Maybe next month to spread out the damage. This has gone full retard.. Anywho, MOAR Pictures!! https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1420341121 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1420341121 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1420341121 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1420341121 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1420341121 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1420341121 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1420341121 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1420341121 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1420341121 |
Super clean build, in for moar!
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New 15x9 Jong's came in! I'm loving the Bronze! Still awaiting the rubber.
Also, got a chance to work on the turbo drain line. Due to the super low mount manifold the direct route wasn't possible due to the fitingo geometry. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1420685212 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1420685212 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1420685212 |
Can anyone comment on the trigger wheel question above?
4 Tooth, 12 Tooth, 36 tooth?? |
From reading a few older threads, it looks like this has been done, but I'm trying to make sure I'm not missing something.
Does this turbo coolant routing look like a good idea? I'd prefer not to run two lines (turbo and heater). http://i59.tinypic.com/2mredqd.jpg |
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Maxxis 245's mounted on 9's
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1422327157 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1422327157 |
Very nice build you have here.
For trigger wheel I would just make sure the MS can run each one (I'd assume it can). Typically more resolution is better as long as it's not overkill. So I'd go with the 36t. |
MS currently cannot run any SuperMiata trigger wheel other than 4 tooth.
Edit: if you make the 36-1 SM wheel look *exactly* like the 36-2 FM wheel, that can work. But as shipped out of the box no SM damper trigger wheels work with MS other than 4t. This is from Rev, so I trust it. |
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Thanks for the input guys. I'd like to attempt to modify the factory 4t trigger wheel so it will work on the super miata damper. More on that as I get some time.
I got a chance to pop on the wheels this evening. No drivetrain, so it's in 4x4 mode but you get the idea. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1422406376 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1422406376 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1422406376 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1422406376 |
Or just get the SuperMiata 4t wheel?
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I have a hard time paying $125+ship for a laser cut part when I can machine the factory part for an hour of my time. If I get crunched for time I may bite the bullet and buy one.
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I forgot you have real fab capabilities. Carry on.
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Nice build!
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Originally Posted by TheBandit
(Post 1200030)
From reading a few older threads, it looks like this has been done, but I'm trying to make sure I'm not missing something.
Does this turbo coolant routing look like a good idea? I'd prefer not to run two lines (turbo and heater). http://i59.tinypic.com/2mredqd.jpg My first thought would be that it would overly restrict the amount of coolant in front of the T/Stat and then the T/Stat might not open well. But, it is the same lines that are used on the front when no re-route is done. Less heater abitlity, I would think, due to that lower flow. Interested in answers from those that have done this. |
TurboTim said in a post some time ago that he has been using this setup without issue. I've not had any feedback yet unfortunately.
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Sweet decals lol!
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Finally got some time to finish up the new mixing manifold and start on the new intake manifold.
Also waiting on new mounts to arrive, but I got the first shipment with the clutch in today from Fab9. Had a friend put his deposit down on an Exocet, and I'm REALLY tempted to just do that and be done with it. Its either put all this back together and next year to Exocet, or just part out the car now and order the Exocet. Plenty of time to finish the build as they are 20 weeks out.. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423101759 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423101759 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423101759 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423101759 |
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Moar Progress!
Gutted the interior and pulled the harness out. Lots of parts stacking up. Almost ready to start prepping for paint. I got a little overboard and removed all the extra bosses on the Honda intake. Need to smooth the runners out and make a flange next week. Also, make a fixture to orient and hold the stock crank trigger. Just need to cutout the ID and make sure everything fits. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423970560 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423970560 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423970560 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1423970560 |
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I've been make slow progress on this over the past few months. Work, autocross, going e85 on the subaru, etc. have kept me from finishing.
Cleaning up the welds on the manifold https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430784049 Semi-Assembled Engine Pic https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1430784049 I'll add some more as they get uploaded. :) |
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Came across a deal I couldn't pass up on a square top. Of course I took it all apart and sanded down the casting marks and such.
Engine is getting buttoned up slowly but surely. Getting to the point where I need to suck it up and paint the engine bay and shove this thing in. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432177887 Made a cover to close up the waterneck hole that was driving my crazy. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432177887 Not sure what I'm going to here. Not enough room to get any kind of 12 point wrench or socket to tighten this nut down. Has anyone run into this and came out with a solution? All I'm coming up with is just using a high strength bolt if I can source one. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432177887 Looks like I'm going to have to take this to the shop and mill it down a bit. I can't remove the valve cover without pulling the fuel rail at the moment. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432177887 Obligatory pic of one of our furballs from a recent car meet. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432177887 |
Originally Posted by TheBandit
(Post 1233335)
Not sure what I'm going to here. Not enough room to get any kind of 12 point wrench or socket to tighten this nut down. Has anyone run into this and came out with a solution? All I'm coming up with is just using a high strength bolt if I can source one.
--Ian |
I'm planning on using studs and nuts as can be seen in the picture on the other mounting holes.
I'm not sure the picture adequately depicts the space constraints. There is genuinely barely enough distance between the flange and the housing for even a nut to fit. I had intended on shortening up my fab9 studs but I'm not sure that's going to be a feasible option. |
Need To Complete:
Need To Order:
COP Bracket Design http://i61.tinypic.com/5qr9l.jpg |
I chamfered the edges of my M-Tuned fuel rail so I could remove the valve cover without removing the fuel rail.
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Very cool. Sub'd
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I'll be honest, the Miata has taken a back seat lately in favor of some Subaru upgrades that I've been meaning to do. The scoob is now running on E85 and it's a substantial difference from 91 pump gas.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1437961546 I did however pick up another vvt engine via a Craigslist ad here in town. Hopefully this will get to stay a backup for quite some time, or possibly end up in another miata if I find one with a hurt motor. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1437961546 Also, had a birthday last week and the misses got me a fancy cake that I shared with my local autox buddies. (Neokla is our scca region) https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1437961546 Today I pulled the trigger on the 949 crossflow, and hope to get the engine bay painted so that I can drop in the motor in the coming weeks/months. |
Just found this build, looks pretty awesome. Can't wait to see how it turns out.
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Got started on the painting process this weekend. Still working on finishing the front bumper and fenders.
Restoring the front and rear subframe will likely come next with ES poly bushings and zerk fittings. Still trying to decide on a plan for braking. As this will be more of an AutoX car, part of me says to not spend the money on upgrades, but part of me wants to also do track days.. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1445389909 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1445389909 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1445389909 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1445389909 |
The wilwood sulutions are all lighter than stock, so therefore good for autox as well.
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That's what I'm beginning to read. Initially I was set on Trackspeed's new package, but I'd be interested to know what the difference in weight is between the 11's and the 11.75's.
Every time I look at my "to purchase" list I get depressed.. Since I'm already talking about, I might as well update the post. Items To Purchase
Need to Fabricate
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I have the same concerns in regards to the 11" & 11.75" kits. I doubt I will NEED the 11.75" kit but I sure as shit WANT it lol
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Where did you purchase your zerk fittings from and what type? I need to order some to install with my new bushing.
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I haven't made the zerk purchase yet, but I'm hearing that many of the parts stores carry them along with ranch supply stores (Atwoods in Oklahoma).
Here is 949's tutorial on installation. http://949racing.com/installingzerkfittings.aspx In other news, I got the rear subframe out and have begun the process of removing bearings and bushings. Pictures to update progress soon. |
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The final color went on the fenders and bumper. A few runs showed up, that will need to be sanded down, but it looks vastly better than before. I also began the process of cleaning up the suspension and removing all the old bushings. The local farm store surprised me and had a pack of zerk fittings on sale, so I grabbed them up and need to drill the pilot holes before sending everything out to powdercoat.
I'm continuing to run into, "well I might as well" situations. Like for instance, there is an NB front subframe, brake booster, and power steering rack at the local salvage. My base model came with an unpowered rack, so it would be nice to get a little quicker ratio. If I throw in a 1' master cylinder I should be good to go on brakes for the foreseeable future. I believe if I get the NB booster, this Centric master (PN 13045600) for a 929 should work for my non-ABS car. More Information for CENTRIC 13045600 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447527931 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447527931 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447527931 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447527931 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447527931 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447527931 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447527931 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447527931 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447527931 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447527931 |
That's the 7/8th master. You need the one from a '92 and up.
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Thanks for correcting me there. I saw both that part number as well as the newer CENTRIC 13045604. The 92+ Centric PN is not specific on whether or not it is designed for ABS or not, so I need to do compare it to 94-97 non-ABS master.
More Information for CENTRIC 13045604 |
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So I sprung for an NB front subframe along with the steering rack to depower and somehow I've missed that the NB knuckles are different and somewhat more desirable. It sounds like the rear is unchanged aside from adding 5mm of track width per knuckle. The fronts are supposed to have the steering mount moved up 7mm but I haven't been able to decipher whether they also have the 5mm extra track. Can anyone confirm or deny this for me?
If they do, that means I would have to get front and rear knuckles to keep it even. Are the knuckles really worth the hassle? In other news, I should have lots of parts coming in over the next two weeks. Snagged a set of rear sport brakes with brackets from a nearby salvage for a deal today! |
I zerked all my control arms last season. I used most of the 949 write up, but I tried using 45* bends in some areas in hopes that I would be able to get a grease cap on it easily, no dice. I have to grease half the bushings with the needle type applicator, it's a pain in the arse. Still, better than having to remove everything to regrease it every season. Also, don't forget to notch the bushings or grease will just bypass the center section. All stuff I am sure you have accounted for, mostly wanted to comment to subscribe.
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Progress Pics!
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1450565859 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1450565859 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1450565859 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1450565859 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1450565859 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1450565859 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1450565859 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1450565859 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1450565859 https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1450565859 More pictures to come.. |
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